Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
#201
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Quality suffered when Fram was bought by Allied Signal and their attempts to
save a few pennies per unit by cheaping out the designs.
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4531C5FC.D62C737C@***.net...
> I'd be interested in knowing what engine failure you blame on Fram.
> They definitely were the best when spin-ons first appeared in the mid
> fifties, their base plate was thicker, enough never to blow off as many
> did. Also made them very hard to chisel off if over tightened.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Outatime wrote:
>>
>> Idiots see insults where none exist.
>>
>> Troll elsewhere.
save a few pennies per unit by cheaping out the designs.
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4531C5FC.D62C737C@***.net...
> I'd be interested in knowing what engine failure you blame on Fram.
> They definitely were the best when spin-ons first appeared in the mid
> fifties, their base plate was thicker, enough never to blow off as many
> did. Also made them very hard to chisel off if over tightened.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Outatime wrote:
>>
>> Idiots see insults where none exist.
>>
>> Troll elsewhere.
#202
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Quality suffered when Fram was bought by Allied Signal and their attempts to
save a few pennies per unit by cheaping out the designs.
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4531C5FC.D62C737C@***.net...
> I'd be interested in knowing what engine failure you blame on Fram.
> They definitely were the best when spin-ons first appeared in the mid
> fifties, their base plate was thicker, enough never to blow off as many
> did. Also made them very hard to chisel off if over tightened.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Outatime wrote:
>>
>> Idiots see insults where none exist.
>>
>> Troll elsewhere.
save a few pennies per unit by cheaping out the designs.
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4531C5FC.D62C737C@***.net...
> I'd be interested in knowing what engine failure you blame on Fram.
> They definitely were the best when spin-ons first appeared in the mid
> fifties, their base plate was thicker, enough never to blow off as many
> did. Also made them very hard to chisel off if over tightened.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Outatime wrote:
>>
>> Idiots see insults where none exist.
>>
>> Troll elsewhere.
#203
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
>
> I'm not trying to be a ***** here, but are you actually reading what people
> are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
> mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not the
> problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
> crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
> time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!
>
> Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
> this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it. The
> valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in the
> head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every time
> the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.
>
> I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
> have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
> gauge should be your first step.
>
> One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when you
> do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
> guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and also
> know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.
>
> Chris
I appreciate your candor...
Listen, I'm low on money, and $400 into this situation already. I feel
my mechanic has some resposibility to figure this out. When I went to
the dealership, I was told that it wasn't a computer flashing fix.
Therefore, I was left to conclude that any mechanic could figure this
out with a lower cost.
I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and he is going to install a
mechanical gauge (it takes 25 minutes?) and he's going to have me drive
around a little to see what the deal is.
If it's showing good pressure, then that would mean that the dash gauge
is the problem?
If it isn't showing good pressure, then I'm in trouble, right?
Thx
#204
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
>
> I'm not trying to be a ***** here, but are you actually reading what people
> are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
> mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not the
> problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
> crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
> time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!
>
> Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
> this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it. The
> valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in the
> head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every time
> the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.
>
> I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
> have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
> gauge should be your first step.
>
> One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when you
> do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
> guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and also
> know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.
>
> Chris
I appreciate your candor...
Listen, I'm low on money, and $400 into this situation already. I feel
my mechanic has some resposibility to figure this out. When I went to
the dealership, I was told that it wasn't a computer flashing fix.
Therefore, I was left to conclude that any mechanic could figure this
out with a lower cost.
I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and he is going to install a
mechanical gauge (it takes 25 minutes?) and he's going to have me drive
around a little to see what the deal is.
If it's showing good pressure, then that would mean that the dash gauge
is the problem?
If it isn't showing good pressure, then I'm in trouble, right?
Thx
#205
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
>
> I'm not trying to be a ***** here, but are you actually reading what people
> are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
> mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not the
> problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
> crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
> time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!
>
> Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
> this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it. The
> valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in the
> head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every time
> the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.
>
> I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
> have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
> gauge should be your first step.
>
> One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when you
> do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
> guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and also
> know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.
>
> Chris
I appreciate your candor...
Listen, I'm low on money, and $400 into this situation already. I feel
my mechanic has some resposibility to figure this out. When I went to
the dealership, I was told that it wasn't a computer flashing fix.
Therefore, I was left to conclude that any mechanic could figure this
out with a lower cost.
I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and he is going to install a
mechanical gauge (it takes 25 minutes?) and he's going to have me drive
around a little to see what the deal is.
If it's showing good pressure, then that would mean that the dash gauge
is the problem?
If it isn't showing good pressure, then I'm in trouble, right?
Thx
#206
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
If your mechanical gauge shows okay oil pressure the problem is in the
sender, wiring, computer, or dash gauge or the grounds for those components
If you had NO oil pressure you could not stand to be near the engine because
of the horrible noises coming out of it.
Imagine you took that big tin tub your grandmother used to handwash laundry
in an threw in a handful of nuts and bolts, broken tools and then caught a
couple neighborhood cats and a pit bull and tossed them into the tub,
slammed a piece of plywood on top and started beating the sides as hard and
fast as you could with a tire iron. That noise you would be hearing would
be a fraction of the noise an engine without oil makes. Before a motor
seizes it actually 'cries and moans in pain'
And seizing is what it would surely do it you tried to run it more than a
minute or two without oil. As you have been driving it for a week I doubt
that is the problem.
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1161024187.737077.267490@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>
>> I'm not trying to be a ***** here, but are you actually reading what
>> people
>> are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
>> mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not
>> the
>> problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
>> crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
>> time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!
>>
>> Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
>> this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it.
>> The
>> valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in
>> the
>> head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every
>> time
>> the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.
>>
>> I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
>> have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
>> gauge should be your first step.
>>
>> One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when
>> you
>> do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
>> guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and
>> also
>> know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.
>>
>> Chris
>
> I appreciate your candor...
>
> Listen, I'm low on money, and $400 into this situation already. I feel
> my mechanic has some resposibility to figure this out. When I went to
> the dealership, I was told that it wasn't a computer flashing fix.
> Therefore, I was left to conclude that any mechanic could figure this
> out with a lower cost.
>
> I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and he is going to install a
> mechanical gauge (it takes 25 minutes?) and he's going to have me drive
> around a little to see what the deal is.
>
> If it's showing good pressure, then that would mean that the dash gauge
> is the problem?
> If it isn't showing good pressure, then I'm in trouble, right?
>
> Thx
>
sender, wiring, computer, or dash gauge or the grounds for those components
If you had NO oil pressure you could not stand to be near the engine because
of the horrible noises coming out of it.
Imagine you took that big tin tub your grandmother used to handwash laundry
in an threw in a handful of nuts and bolts, broken tools and then caught a
couple neighborhood cats and a pit bull and tossed them into the tub,
slammed a piece of plywood on top and started beating the sides as hard and
fast as you could with a tire iron. That noise you would be hearing would
be a fraction of the noise an engine without oil makes. Before a motor
seizes it actually 'cries and moans in pain'
And seizing is what it would surely do it you tried to run it more than a
minute or two without oil. As you have been driving it for a week I doubt
that is the problem.
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1161024187.737077.267490@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>
>> I'm not trying to be a ***** here, but are you actually reading what
>> people
>> are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
>> mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not
>> the
>> problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
>> crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
>> time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!
>>
>> Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
>> this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it.
>> The
>> valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in
>> the
>> head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every
>> time
>> the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.
>>
>> I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
>> have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
>> gauge should be your first step.
>>
>> One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when
>> you
>> do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
>> guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and
>> also
>> know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.
>>
>> Chris
>
> I appreciate your candor...
>
> Listen, I'm low on money, and $400 into this situation already. I feel
> my mechanic has some resposibility to figure this out. When I went to
> the dealership, I was told that it wasn't a computer flashing fix.
> Therefore, I was left to conclude that any mechanic could figure this
> out with a lower cost.
>
> I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and he is going to install a
> mechanical gauge (it takes 25 minutes?) and he's going to have me drive
> around a little to see what the deal is.
>
> If it's showing good pressure, then that would mean that the dash gauge
> is the problem?
> If it isn't showing good pressure, then I'm in trouble, right?
>
> Thx
>
#207
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
If your mechanical gauge shows okay oil pressure the problem is in the
sender, wiring, computer, or dash gauge or the grounds for those components
If you had NO oil pressure you could not stand to be near the engine because
of the horrible noises coming out of it.
Imagine you took that big tin tub your grandmother used to handwash laundry
in an threw in a handful of nuts and bolts, broken tools and then caught a
couple neighborhood cats and a pit bull and tossed them into the tub,
slammed a piece of plywood on top and started beating the sides as hard and
fast as you could with a tire iron. That noise you would be hearing would
be a fraction of the noise an engine without oil makes. Before a motor
seizes it actually 'cries and moans in pain'
And seizing is what it would surely do it you tried to run it more than a
minute or two without oil. As you have been driving it for a week I doubt
that is the problem.
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1161024187.737077.267490@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>
>> I'm not trying to be a ***** here, but are you actually reading what
>> people
>> are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
>> mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not
>> the
>> problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
>> crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
>> time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!
>>
>> Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
>> this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it.
>> The
>> valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in
>> the
>> head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every
>> time
>> the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.
>>
>> I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
>> have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
>> gauge should be your first step.
>>
>> One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when
>> you
>> do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
>> guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and
>> also
>> know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.
>>
>> Chris
>
> I appreciate your candor...
>
> Listen, I'm low on money, and $400 into this situation already. I feel
> my mechanic has some resposibility to figure this out. When I went to
> the dealership, I was told that it wasn't a computer flashing fix.
> Therefore, I was left to conclude that any mechanic could figure this
> out with a lower cost.
>
> I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and he is going to install a
> mechanical gauge (it takes 25 minutes?) and he's going to have me drive
> around a little to see what the deal is.
>
> If it's showing good pressure, then that would mean that the dash gauge
> is the problem?
> If it isn't showing good pressure, then I'm in trouble, right?
>
> Thx
>
sender, wiring, computer, or dash gauge or the grounds for those components
If you had NO oil pressure you could not stand to be near the engine because
of the horrible noises coming out of it.
Imagine you took that big tin tub your grandmother used to handwash laundry
in an threw in a handful of nuts and bolts, broken tools and then caught a
couple neighborhood cats and a pit bull and tossed them into the tub,
slammed a piece of plywood on top and started beating the sides as hard and
fast as you could with a tire iron. That noise you would be hearing would
be a fraction of the noise an engine without oil makes. Before a motor
seizes it actually 'cries and moans in pain'
And seizing is what it would surely do it you tried to run it more than a
minute or two without oil. As you have been driving it for a week I doubt
that is the problem.
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1161024187.737077.267490@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>
>> I'm not trying to be a ***** here, but are you actually reading what
>> people
>> are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
>> mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not
>> the
>> problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
>> crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
>> time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!
>>
>> Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
>> this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it.
>> The
>> valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in
>> the
>> head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every
>> time
>> the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.
>>
>> I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
>> have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
>> gauge should be your first step.
>>
>> One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when
>> you
>> do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
>> guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and
>> also
>> know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.
>>
>> Chris
>
> I appreciate your candor...
>
> Listen, I'm low on money, and $400 into this situation already. I feel
> my mechanic has some resposibility to figure this out. When I went to
> the dealership, I was told that it wasn't a computer flashing fix.
> Therefore, I was left to conclude that any mechanic could figure this
> out with a lower cost.
>
> I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and he is going to install a
> mechanical gauge (it takes 25 minutes?) and he's going to have me drive
> around a little to see what the deal is.
>
> If it's showing good pressure, then that would mean that the dash gauge
> is the problem?
> If it isn't showing good pressure, then I'm in trouble, right?
>
> Thx
>
#208
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
If your mechanical gauge shows okay oil pressure the problem is in the
sender, wiring, computer, or dash gauge or the grounds for those components
If you had NO oil pressure you could not stand to be near the engine because
of the horrible noises coming out of it.
Imagine you took that big tin tub your grandmother used to handwash laundry
in an threw in a handful of nuts and bolts, broken tools and then caught a
couple neighborhood cats and a pit bull and tossed them into the tub,
slammed a piece of plywood on top and started beating the sides as hard and
fast as you could with a tire iron. That noise you would be hearing would
be a fraction of the noise an engine without oil makes. Before a motor
seizes it actually 'cries and moans in pain'
And seizing is what it would surely do it you tried to run it more than a
minute or two without oil. As you have been driving it for a week I doubt
that is the problem.
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1161024187.737077.267490@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>
>> I'm not trying to be a ***** here, but are you actually reading what
>> people
>> are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
>> mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not
>> the
>> problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
>> crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
>> time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!
>>
>> Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
>> this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it.
>> The
>> valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in
>> the
>> head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every
>> time
>> the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.
>>
>> I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
>> have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
>> gauge should be your first step.
>>
>> One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when
>> you
>> do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
>> guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and
>> also
>> know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.
>>
>> Chris
>
> I appreciate your candor...
>
> Listen, I'm low on money, and $400 into this situation already. I feel
> my mechanic has some resposibility to figure this out. When I went to
> the dealership, I was told that it wasn't a computer flashing fix.
> Therefore, I was left to conclude that any mechanic could figure this
> out with a lower cost.
>
> I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and he is going to install a
> mechanical gauge (it takes 25 minutes?) and he's going to have me drive
> around a little to see what the deal is.
>
> If it's showing good pressure, then that would mean that the dash gauge
> is the problem?
> If it isn't showing good pressure, then I'm in trouble, right?
>
> Thx
>
sender, wiring, computer, or dash gauge or the grounds for those components
If you had NO oil pressure you could not stand to be near the engine because
of the horrible noises coming out of it.
Imagine you took that big tin tub your grandmother used to handwash laundry
in an threw in a handful of nuts and bolts, broken tools and then caught a
couple neighborhood cats and a pit bull and tossed them into the tub,
slammed a piece of plywood on top and started beating the sides as hard and
fast as you could with a tire iron. That noise you would be hearing would
be a fraction of the noise an engine without oil makes. Before a motor
seizes it actually 'cries and moans in pain'
And seizing is what it would surely do it you tried to run it more than a
minute or two without oil. As you have been driving it for a week I doubt
that is the problem.
"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1161024187.737077.267490@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>
>> I'm not trying to be a ***** here, but are you actually reading what
>> people
>> are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
>> mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not
>> the
>> problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
>> crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
>> time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!
>>
>> Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
>> this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it.
>> The
>> valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in
>> the
>> head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every
>> time
>> the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.
>>
>> I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
>> have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
>> gauge should be your first step.
>>
>> One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when
>> you
>> do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
>> guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and
>> also
>> know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.
>>
>> Chris
>
> I appreciate your candor...
>
> Listen, I'm low on money, and $400 into this situation already. I feel
> my mechanic has some resposibility to figure this out. When I went to
> the dealership, I was told that it wasn't a computer flashing fix.
> Therefore, I was left to conclude that any mechanic could figure this
> out with a lower cost.
>
> I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and he is going to install a
> mechanical gauge (it takes 25 minutes?) and he's going to have me drive
> around a little to see what the deal is.
>
> If it's showing good pressure, then that would mean that the dash gauge
> is the problem?
> If it isn't showing good pressure, then I'm in trouble, right?
>
> Thx
>
#209
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
billy ray wrote:
> If your mechanical gauge shows okay oil pressure the problem is in the
> sender, wiring, computer, or dash gauge or the grounds for those components
>
> If you had NO oil pressure you could not stand to be near the engine because
> of the horrible noises coming out of it.
>
> Imagine you took that big tin tub your grandmother used to handwash laundry
> in an threw in a handful of nuts and bolts, broken tools and then caught a
> couple neighborhood cats and a pit bull and tossed them into the tub,
> slammed a piece of plywood on top and started beating the sides as hard and
> fast as you could with a tire iron. That noise you would be hearing would
> be a fraction of the noise an engine without oil makes. Before a motor
> seizes it actually 'cries and moans in pain'
>
> And seizing is what it would surely do it you tried to run it more than a
> minute or two without oil. As you have been driving it for a week I doubt
> that is the problem.
Is it possible that the gauge is sensing "LOW" vs "NO" oil pressure?
I guess I will find out tomorrow, but seeing as this has gone on for
THREE WEEKS (one week of driving) I'm anxious to fix the cause of the
problem- if there is one. It just seems that the engine doesn't
respond as well when the gauge is at the bottom.
Few Other Notes:
-When I check the dipstick after driving 20-30 minutes, I notice that
the oil on the stick has bubbles. I also hear a CHIRPING noise coming
from the engine.
-I'm using a Fram Tough Guard filter.
-I used a 6 quarts of 10-30 Penzoil Synthetic- in the past I've used 5
synthetic 1 Lucas
And again, the car has 164,000 miles on it.
THX TO ALL!
#210
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
billy ray wrote:
> If your mechanical gauge shows okay oil pressure the problem is in the
> sender, wiring, computer, or dash gauge or the grounds for those components
>
> If you had NO oil pressure you could not stand to be near the engine because
> of the horrible noises coming out of it.
>
> Imagine you took that big tin tub your grandmother used to handwash laundry
> in an threw in a handful of nuts and bolts, broken tools and then caught a
> couple neighborhood cats and a pit bull and tossed them into the tub,
> slammed a piece of plywood on top and started beating the sides as hard and
> fast as you could with a tire iron. That noise you would be hearing would
> be a fraction of the noise an engine without oil makes. Before a motor
> seizes it actually 'cries and moans in pain'
>
> And seizing is what it would surely do it you tried to run it more than a
> minute or two without oil. As you have been driving it for a week I doubt
> that is the problem.
Is it possible that the gauge is sensing "LOW" vs "NO" oil pressure?
I guess I will find out tomorrow, but seeing as this has gone on for
THREE WEEKS (one week of driving) I'm anxious to fix the cause of the
problem- if there is one. It just seems that the engine doesn't
respond as well when the gauge is at the bottom.
Few Other Notes:
-When I check the dipstick after driving 20-30 minutes, I notice that
the oil on the stick has bubbles. I also hear a CHIRPING noise coming
from the engine.
-I'm using a Fram Tough Guard filter.
-I used a 6 quarts of 10-30 Penzoil Synthetic- in the past I've used 5
synthetic 1 Lucas
And again, the car has 164,000 miles on it.
THX TO ALL!