Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
#151
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
That report isn't exactly complementary is it? What did you switch to?
Jeff DeWitt
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Jeff,
> My 350,000 on my '78 Bronco and 300,000 miles on my '89 Thunderbird
> are on Fram filters and Pennzoil. I did switch to their more expensive
> filters when I found one with a loose element on an oil change:
> http://----------.com/mirror/oilfilterstudy.htm
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>
>>I'm not making any big endorsement of Fram products, don't have any
>>strong feelings about them, you shared your experience and I've shared mine.
>>
>>300,000 miles says a lot, I don't see any need to change without some
>>strong evidence that I should. I DID change oil with the new engine,
>>the old one had 300,000 on Penzoil and Fram, the new one has Shell
>>Rotella, partly because from everything I've heard it's excellent oil,
>>and partly because it's what I use in my Studebakers and it's easier to
>>just keep one kind of oil around.
>>
>>And thinking men don't throw out insults with no good reason.
>>
>>Jeff DeWitt
Jeff DeWitt
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Jeff,
> My 350,000 on my '78 Bronco and 300,000 miles on my '89 Thunderbird
> are on Fram filters and Pennzoil. I did switch to their more expensive
> filters when I found one with a loose element on an oil change:
> http://----------.com/mirror/oilfilterstudy.htm
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>
>>I'm not making any big endorsement of Fram products, don't have any
>>strong feelings about them, you shared your experience and I've shared mine.
>>
>>300,000 miles says a lot, I don't see any need to change without some
>>strong evidence that I should. I DID change oil with the new engine,
>>the old one had 300,000 on Penzoil and Fram, the new one has Shell
>>Rotella, partly because from everything I've heard it's excellent oil,
>>and partly because it's what I use in my Studebakers and it's easier to
>>just keep one kind of oil around.
>>
>>And thinking men don't throw out insults with no good reason.
>>
>>Jeff DeWitt
#152
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
The all new blue Cheer Extra strength:
http://www.----------.com/temp/framOilFilters.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>
> That report isn't exactly complementary is it? What did you switch to?
>
> Jeff DeWitt
http://www.----------.com/temp/framOilFilters.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>
> That report isn't exactly complementary is it? What did you switch to?
>
> Jeff DeWitt
#153
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
The all new blue Cheer Extra strength:
http://www.----------.com/temp/framOilFilters.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>
> That report isn't exactly complementary is it? What did you switch to?
>
> Jeff DeWitt
http://www.----------.com/temp/framOilFilters.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>
> That report isn't exactly complementary is it? What did you switch to?
>
> Jeff DeWitt
#154
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
The all new blue Cheer Extra strength:
http://www.----------.com/temp/framOilFilters.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>
> That report isn't exactly complementary is it? What did you switch to?
>
> Jeff DeWitt
http://www.----------.com/temp/framOilFilters.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>
> That report isn't exactly complementary is it? What did you switch to?
>
> Jeff DeWitt
#155
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> I'd be interested in knowing what engine failure you blame on Fram.
> They definitely were the best when spin-ons first appeared in the mid
> fifties, their base plate was thicker, enough never to blow off as many
> did. Also made them very hard to chisel off if over tightened.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Outatime wrote:
>> Idiots see insults where none exist.
>>
>> Troll elsewhere.
I'll chime in again. Most of my pre-Jeep vehicles had Chrysler Slant 6
engines. Like the Jeep 4.0, the filter sits "upside down" on these
engines. That is the open part with the threads is on the bottom, facing
the street.
This orientation tends to make gravity drain the oil back into the pan
when the engine is not running. Having a filter full of oil when you
start in the morning is important, as if it drains back into the pan,
the oil pump has to pump the filter full of oil before it goes out to
the bearings.
Fram and purelator filters generally tended to keep the filter full
overnight. AC and Motocraft would work okay at first, but would quickly
begin to drain back into the pan overnight. This happened to me
countless times over the years, about a weeks after an oil change, I
would have to sit and wait for the oil light to go out after starting
the car first thing in the morning. Changing to either a Fram or a
Purelator would solve the problem until the next oil change. Regardless
of the theory behind the various antidrainback valves, the ones in Fram
filters work and the ones in AC and Motocraft fail after minimal use in
my experience. I had the same problem with an AC filter on my 92 XJ
shortly after I got it.
Note that this has nothing to do with the filter medium itself. But I
change my oil regularly at 3000 miles or before, so I don't think it
matters that much.
After all I have read, I prefer Purelator, but the close by stores don't
carry them, so I will use Fram sometimes. I will never again buy an AC
or Motocraft oil filter for a vehicle in which the filter sits upside
down. On something like a 318 or 383, where the filter sits sideways or
with the holes at the top, it probably doesn't matter.
Best Regards,
Dave.
> I'd be interested in knowing what engine failure you blame on Fram.
> They definitely were the best when spin-ons first appeared in the mid
> fifties, their base plate was thicker, enough never to blow off as many
> did. Also made them very hard to chisel off if over tightened.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Outatime wrote:
>> Idiots see insults where none exist.
>>
>> Troll elsewhere.
I'll chime in again. Most of my pre-Jeep vehicles had Chrysler Slant 6
engines. Like the Jeep 4.0, the filter sits "upside down" on these
engines. That is the open part with the threads is on the bottom, facing
the street.
This orientation tends to make gravity drain the oil back into the pan
when the engine is not running. Having a filter full of oil when you
start in the morning is important, as if it drains back into the pan,
the oil pump has to pump the filter full of oil before it goes out to
the bearings.
Fram and purelator filters generally tended to keep the filter full
overnight. AC and Motocraft would work okay at first, but would quickly
begin to drain back into the pan overnight. This happened to me
countless times over the years, about a weeks after an oil change, I
would have to sit and wait for the oil light to go out after starting
the car first thing in the morning. Changing to either a Fram or a
Purelator would solve the problem until the next oil change. Regardless
of the theory behind the various antidrainback valves, the ones in Fram
filters work and the ones in AC and Motocraft fail after minimal use in
my experience. I had the same problem with an AC filter on my 92 XJ
shortly after I got it.
Note that this has nothing to do with the filter medium itself. But I
change my oil regularly at 3000 miles or before, so I don't think it
matters that much.
After all I have read, I prefer Purelator, but the close by stores don't
carry them, so I will use Fram sometimes. I will never again buy an AC
or Motocraft oil filter for a vehicle in which the filter sits upside
down. On something like a 318 or 383, where the filter sits sideways or
with the holes at the top, it probably doesn't matter.
Best Regards,
Dave.
#156
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> I'd be interested in knowing what engine failure you blame on Fram.
> They definitely were the best when spin-ons first appeared in the mid
> fifties, their base plate was thicker, enough never to blow off as many
> did. Also made them very hard to chisel off if over tightened.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Outatime wrote:
>> Idiots see insults where none exist.
>>
>> Troll elsewhere.
I'll chime in again. Most of my pre-Jeep vehicles had Chrysler Slant 6
engines. Like the Jeep 4.0, the filter sits "upside down" on these
engines. That is the open part with the threads is on the bottom, facing
the street.
This orientation tends to make gravity drain the oil back into the pan
when the engine is not running. Having a filter full of oil when you
start in the morning is important, as if it drains back into the pan,
the oil pump has to pump the filter full of oil before it goes out to
the bearings.
Fram and purelator filters generally tended to keep the filter full
overnight. AC and Motocraft would work okay at first, but would quickly
begin to drain back into the pan overnight. This happened to me
countless times over the years, about a weeks after an oil change, I
would have to sit and wait for the oil light to go out after starting
the car first thing in the morning. Changing to either a Fram or a
Purelator would solve the problem until the next oil change. Regardless
of the theory behind the various antidrainback valves, the ones in Fram
filters work and the ones in AC and Motocraft fail after minimal use in
my experience. I had the same problem with an AC filter on my 92 XJ
shortly after I got it.
Note that this has nothing to do with the filter medium itself. But I
change my oil regularly at 3000 miles or before, so I don't think it
matters that much.
After all I have read, I prefer Purelator, but the close by stores don't
carry them, so I will use Fram sometimes. I will never again buy an AC
or Motocraft oil filter for a vehicle in which the filter sits upside
down. On something like a 318 or 383, where the filter sits sideways or
with the holes at the top, it probably doesn't matter.
Best Regards,
Dave.
> I'd be interested in knowing what engine failure you blame on Fram.
> They definitely were the best when spin-ons first appeared in the mid
> fifties, their base plate was thicker, enough never to blow off as many
> did. Also made them very hard to chisel off if over tightened.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Outatime wrote:
>> Idiots see insults where none exist.
>>
>> Troll elsewhere.
I'll chime in again. Most of my pre-Jeep vehicles had Chrysler Slant 6
engines. Like the Jeep 4.0, the filter sits "upside down" on these
engines. That is the open part with the threads is on the bottom, facing
the street.
This orientation tends to make gravity drain the oil back into the pan
when the engine is not running. Having a filter full of oil when you
start in the morning is important, as if it drains back into the pan,
the oil pump has to pump the filter full of oil before it goes out to
the bearings.
Fram and purelator filters generally tended to keep the filter full
overnight. AC and Motocraft would work okay at first, but would quickly
begin to drain back into the pan overnight. This happened to me
countless times over the years, about a weeks after an oil change, I
would have to sit and wait for the oil light to go out after starting
the car first thing in the morning. Changing to either a Fram or a
Purelator would solve the problem until the next oil change. Regardless
of the theory behind the various antidrainback valves, the ones in Fram
filters work and the ones in AC and Motocraft fail after minimal use in
my experience. I had the same problem with an AC filter on my 92 XJ
shortly after I got it.
Note that this has nothing to do with the filter medium itself. But I
change my oil regularly at 3000 miles or before, so I don't think it
matters that much.
After all I have read, I prefer Purelator, but the close by stores don't
carry them, so I will use Fram sometimes. I will never again buy an AC
or Motocraft oil filter for a vehicle in which the filter sits upside
down. On something like a 318 or 383, where the filter sits sideways or
with the holes at the top, it probably doesn't matter.
Best Regards,
Dave.
#157
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> I'd be interested in knowing what engine failure you blame on Fram.
> They definitely were the best when spin-ons first appeared in the mid
> fifties, their base plate was thicker, enough never to blow off as many
> did. Also made them very hard to chisel off if over tightened.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Outatime wrote:
>> Idiots see insults where none exist.
>>
>> Troll elsewhere.
I'll chime in again. Most of my pre-Jeep vehicles had Chrysler Slant 6
engines. Like the Jeep 4.0, the filter sits "upside down" on these
engines. That is the open part with the threads is on the bottom, facing
the street.
This orientation tends to make gravity drain the oil back into the pan
when the engine is not running. Having a filter full of oil when you
start in the morning is important, as if it drains back into the pan,
the oil pump has to pump the filter full of oil before it goes out to
the bearings.
Fram and purelator filters generally tended to keep the filter full
overnight. AC and Motocraft would work okay at first, but would quickly
begin to drain back into the pan overnight. This happened to me
countless times over the years, about a weeks after an oil change, I
would have to sit and wait for the oil light to go out after starting
the car first thing in the morning. Changing to either a Fram or a
Purelator would solve the problem until the next oil change. Regardless
of the theory behind the various antidrainback valves, the ones in Fram
filters work and the ones in AC and Motocraft fail after minimal use in
my experience. I had the same problem with an AC filter on my 92 XJ
shortly after I got it.
Note that this has nothing to do with the filter medium itself. But I
change my oil regularly at 3000 miles or before, so I don't think it
matters that much.
After all I have read, I prefer Purelator, but the close by stores don't
carry them, so I will use Fram sometimes. I will never again buy an AC
or Motocraft oil filter for a vehicle in which the filter sits upside
down. On something like a 318 or 383, where the filter sits sideways or
with the holes at the top, it probably doesn't matter.
Best Regards,
Dave.
> I'd be interested in knowing what engine failure you blame on Fram.
> They definitely were the best when spin-ons first appeared in the mid
> fifties, their base plate was thicker, enough never to blow off as many
> did. Also made them very hard to chisel off if over tightened.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Outatime wrote:
>> Idiots see insults where none exist.
>>
>> Troll elsewhere.
I'll chime in again. Most of my pre-Jeep vehicles had Chrysler Slant 6
engines. Like the Jeep 4.0, the filter sits "upside down" on these
engines. That is the open part with the threads is on the bottom, facing
the street.
This orientation tends to make gravity drain the oil back into the pan
when the engine is not running. Having a filter full of oil when you
start in the morning is important, as if it drains back into the pan,
the oil pump has to pump the filter full of oil before it goes out to
the bearings.
Fram and purelator filters generally tended to keep the filter full
overnight. AC and Motocraft would work okay at first, but would quickly
begin to drain back into the pan overnight. This happened to me
countless times over the years, about a weeks after an oil change, I
would have to sit and wait for the oil light to go out after starting
the car first thing in the morning. Changing to either a Fram or a
Purelator would solve the problem until the next oil change. Regardless
of the theory behind the various antidrainback valves, the ones in Fram
filters work and the ones in AC and Motocraft fail after minimal use in
my experience. I had the same problem with an AC filter on my 92 XJ
shortly after I got it.
Note that this has nothing to do with the filter medium itself. But I
change my oil regularly at 3000 miles or before, so I don't think it
matters that much.
After all I have read, I prefer Purelator, but the close by stores don't
carry them, so I will use Fram sometimes. I will never again buy an AC
or Motocraft oil filter for a vehicle in which the filter sits upside
down. On something like a 318 or 383, where the filter sits sideways or
with the holes at the top, it probably doesn't matter.
Best Regards,
Dave.
#158
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Fram filters meet the minimum standards under single pass SAE J806 tests.
They do not make other claims in writing other than they meet this spec.
Some other manufacturers claim to exceed the single pass SAE J806 tests and
proudly promote their scores on the optional SAE J1858 multi-pass filtration
test.
Be aware that the only requirement to satisfy your warranty protection at
this time is passing the J806 test. If you want a filter that just passes
the minimum standard then Fram is the filter for you.
I am, of course, aware that Fram earn its place, decades ago, as the top of
the line in oil filtering.
I do not know if Fram ceased to improve their filters somewhere along the
line or if they intentionally took a step backwards in an effort to decrease
costs and maximize profits.
I might add here that a superior filter would be worth some extra cost but
the superior filters are less expensive than Fram as well.
To be fair Fram does make a filter of average industry quality filter which
they chose to market and price as a 'premium' filter.
Perhaps this is the "expensive" filter Bill is referring to, the filter that
adds PTFE (Teflon) to your motor oil.
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4531C24A.602718E6@***.net...
> Hi Jeff,
> My 350,000 on my '78 Bronco and 300,000 miles on my '89 Thunderbird
> are on Fram filters and Pennzoil. I did switch to their more expensive
> filters when I found one with a loose element on an oil change:
> http://----------.com/mirror/oilfilterstudy.htm
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>>
>> I'm not making any big endorsement of Fram products, don't have any
>> strong feelings about them, you shared your experience and I've shared
>> mine.
>>
>> 300,000 miles says a lot, I don't see any need to change without some
>> strong evidence that I should. I DID change oil with the new engine,
>> the old one had 300,000 on Penzoil and Fram, the new one has Shell
>> Rotella, partly because from everything I've heard it's excellent oil,
>> and partly because it's what I use in my Studebakers and it's easier to
>> just keep one kind of oil around.
>>
>> And thinking men don't throw out insults with no good reason.
>>
>> Jeff DeWitt
They do not make other claims in writing other than they meet this spec.
Some other manufacturers claim to exceed the single pass SAE J806 tests and
proudly promote their scores on the optional SAE J1858 multi-pass filtration
test.
Be aware that the only requirement to satisfy your warranty protection at
this time is passing the J806 test. If you want a filter that just passes
the minimum standard then Fram is the filter for you.
I am, of course, aware that Fram earn its place, decades ago, as the top of
the line in oil filtering.
I do not know if Fram ceased to improve their filters somewhere along the
line or if they intentionally took a step backwards in an effort to decrease
costs and maximize profits.
I might add here that a superior filter would be worth some extra cost but
the superior filters are less expensive than Fram as well.
To be fair Fram does make a filter of average industry quality filter which
they chose to market and price as a 'premium' filter.
Perhaps this is the "expensive" filter Bill is referring to, the filter that
adds PTFE (Teflon) to your motor oil.
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4531C24A.602718E6@***.net...
> Hi Jeff,
> My 350,000 on my '78 Bronco and 300,000 miles on my '89 Thunderbird
> are on Fram filters and Pennzoil. I did switch to their more expensive
> filters when I found one with a loose element on an oil change:
> http://----------.com/mirror/oilfilterstudy.htm
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>>
>> I'm not making any big endorsement of Fram products, don't have any
>> strong feelings about them, you shared your experience and I've shared
>> mine.
>>
>> 300,000 miles says a lot, I don't see any need to change without some
>> strong evidence that I should. I DID change oil with the new engine,
>> the old one had 300,000 on Penzoil and Fram, the new one has Shell
>> Rotella, partly because from everything I've heard it's excellent oil,
>> and partly because it's what I use in my Studebakers and it's easier to
>> just keep one kind of oil around.
>>
>> And thinking men don't throw out insults with no good reason.
>>
>> Jeff DeWitt
#159
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Fram filters meet the minimum standards under single pass SAE J806 tests.
They do not make other claims in writing other than they meet this spec.
Some other manufacturers claim to exceed the single pass SAE J806 tests and
proudly promote their scores on the optional SAE J1858 multi-pass filtration
test.
Be aware that the only requirement to satisfy your warranty protection at
this time is passing the J806 test. If you want a filter that just passes
the minimum standard then Fram is the filter for you.
I am, of course, aware that Fram earn its place, decades ago, as the top of
the line in oil filtering.
I do not know if Fram ceased to improve their filters somewhere along the
line or if they intentionally took a step backwards in an effort to decrease
costs and maximize profits.
I might add here that a superior filter would be worth some extra cost but
the superior filters are less expensive than Fram as well.
To be fair Fram does make a filter of average industry quality filter which
they chose to market and price as a 'premium' filter.
Perhaps this is the "expensive" filter Bill is referring to, the filter that
adds PTFE (Teflon) to your motor oil.
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4531C24A.602718E6@***.net...
> Hi Jeff,
> My 350,000 on my '78 Bronco and 300,000 miles on my '89 Thunderbird
> are on Fram filters and Pennzoil. I did switch to their more expensive
> filters when I found one with a loose element on an oil change:
> http://----------.com/mirror/oilfilterstudy.htm
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>>
>> I'm not making any big endorsement of Fram products, don't have any
>> strong feelings about them, you shared your experience and I've shared
>> mine.
>>
>> 300,000 miles says a lot, I don't see any need to change without some
>> strong evidence that I should. I DID change oil with the new engine,
>> the old one had 300,000 on Penzoil and Fram, the new one has Shell
>> Rotella, partly because from everything I've heard it's excellent oil,
>> and partly because it's what I use in my Studebakers and it's easier to
>> just keep one kind of oil around.
>>
>> And thinking men don't throw out insults with no good reason.
>>
>> Jeff DeWitt
They do not make other claims in writing other than they meet this spec.
Some other manufacturers claim to exceed the single pass SAE J806 tests and
proudly promote their scores on the optional SAE J1858 multi-pass filtration
test.
Be aware that the only requirement to satisfy your warranty protection at
this time is passing the J806 test. If you want a filter that just passes
the minimum standard then Fram is the filter for you.
I am, of course, aware that Fram earn its place, decades ago, as the top of
the line in oil filtering.
I do not know if Fram ceased to improve their filters somewhere along the
line or if they intentionally took a step backwards in an effort to decrease
costs and maximize profits.
I might add here that a superior filter would be worth some extra cost but
the superior filters are less expensive than Fram as well.
To be fair Fram does make a filter of average industry quality filter which
they chose to market and price as a 'premium' filter.
Perhaps this is the "expensive" filter Bill is referring to, the filter that
adds PTFE (Teflon) to your motor oil.
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4531C24A.602718E6@***.net...
> Hi Jeff,
> My 350,000 on my '78 Bronco and 300,000 miles on my '89 Thunderbird
> are on Fram filters and Pennzoil. I did switch to their more expensive
> filters when I found one with a loose element on an oil change:
> http://----------.com/mirror/oilfilterstudy.htm
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>>
>> I'm not making any big endorsement of Fram products, don't have any
>> strong feelings about them, you shared your experience and I've shared
>> mine.
>>
>> 300,000 miles says a lot, I don't see any need to change without some
>> strong evidence that I should. I DID change oil with the new engine,
>> the old one had 300,000 on Penzoil and Fram, the new one has Shell
>> Rotella, partly because from everything I've heard it's excellent oil,
>> and partly because it's what I use in my Studebakers and it's easier to
>> just keep one kind of oil around.
>>
>> And thinking men don't throw out insults with no good reason.
>>
>> Jeff DeWitt
#160
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96
Fram filters meet the minimum standards under single pass SAE J806 tests.
They do not make other claims in writing other than they meet this spec.
Some other manufacturers claim to exceed the single pass SAE J806 tests and
proudly promote their scores on the optional SAE J1858 multi-pass filtration
test.
Be aware that the only requirement to satisfy your warranty protection at
this time is passing the J806 test. If you want a filter that just passes
the minimum standard then Fram is the filter for you.
I am, of course, aware that Fram earn its place, decades ago, as the top of
the line in oil filtering.
I do not know if Fram ceased to improve their filters somewhere along the
line or if they intentionally took a step backwards in an effort to decrease
costs and maximize profits.
I might add here that a superior filter would be worth some extra cost but
the superior filters are less expensive than Fram as well.
To be fair Fram does make a filter of average industry quality filter which
they chose to market and price as a 'premium' filter.
Perhaps this is the "expensive" filter Bill is referring to, the filter that
adds PTFE (Teflon) to your motor oil.
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4531C24A.602718E6@***.net...
> Hi Jeff,
> My 350,000 on my '78 Bronco and 300,000 miles on my '89 Thunderbird
> are on Fram filters and Pennzoil. I did switch to their more expensive
> filters when I found one with a loose element on an oil change:
> http://----------.com/mirror/oilfilterstudy.htm
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>>
>> I'm not making any big endorsement of Fram products, don't have any
>> strong feelings about them, you shared your experience and I've shared
>> mine.
>>
>> 300,000 miles says a lot, I don't see any need to change without some
>> strong evidence that I should. I DID change oil with the new engine,
>> the old one had 300,000 on Penzoil and Fram, the new one has Shell
>> Rotella, partly because from everything I've heard it's excellent oil,
>> and partly because it's what I use in my Studebakers and it's easier to
>> just keep one kind of oil around.
>>
>> And thinking men don't throw out insults with no good reason.
>>
>> Jeff DeWitt
They do not make other claims in writing other than they meet this spec.
Some other manufacturers claim to exceed the single pass SAE J806 tests and
proudly promote their scores on the optional SAE J1858 multi-pass filtration
test.
Be aware that the only requirement to satisfy your warranty protection at
this time is passing the J806 test. If you want a filter that just passes
the minimum standard then Fram is the filter for you.
I am, of course, aware that Fram earn its place, decades ago, as the top of
the line in oil filtering.
I do not know if Fram ceased to improve their filters somewhere along the
line or if they intentionally took a step backwards in an effort to decrease
costs and maximize profits.
I might add here that a superior filter would be worth some extra cost but
the superior filters are less expensive than Fram as well.
To be fair Fram does make a filter of average industry quality filter which
they chose to market and price as a 'premium' filter.
Perhaps this is the "expensive" filter Bill is referring to, the filter that
adds PTFE (Teflon) to your motor oil.
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4531C24A.602718E6@***.net...
> Hi Jeff,
> My 350,000 on my '78 Bronco and 300,000 miles on my '89 Thunderbird
> are on Fram filters and Pennzoil. I did switch to their more expensive
> filters when I found one with a loose element on an oil change:
> http://----------.com/mirror/oilfilterstudy.htm
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>>
>> I'm not making any big endorsement of Fram products, don't have any
>> strong feelings about them, you shared your experience and I've shared
>> mine.
>>
>> 300,000 miles says a lot, I don't see any need to change without some
>> strong evidence that I should. I DID change oil with the new engine,
>> the old one had 300,000 on Penzoil and Fram, the new one has Shell
>> Rotella, partly because from everything I've heard it's excellent oil,
>> and partly because it's what I use in my Studebakers and it's easier to
>> just keep one kind of oil around.
>>
>> And thinking men don't throw out insults with no good reason.
>>
>> Jeff DeWitt