"Rich Hampel" <RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:120120050850027313%RhmpL33@nospam.net...
> Absolutely NOT.
> Once you *start to slide/slip* on ice or snow with the vehicle in 4WD
> the different speeds of the front and rear axels will prevent at least
> two wheels from gaining traction/adhesion. For example a 411 rear
> differential will be matched with a 410 front differential .... one is
> either pulling or dragging the other, front and rear ARE running at
> 'different speeds'. The difference in wheel rpm is small, but is still
> different.; Its probably the reason that a 4WD once it starts to
> slide/slip (on ice or hardpack) is much harder to recover than a 2WD.
> No problem when there is traction and idling down in 4WD; but, when
> there isnt sufficient traction, feathering the brakes in neutral will
> usually allow faster recovery ... but like I stated the brakes had
> better be applying the same torque to all wheels.
> ;-)
>

Think that if you want, but when you get to the bottom of the ditch, or
wrapped around a tree, ALWAYS remember to put the gear selector back into
gear. It is illegal in many states, if not all, to coast in Neutral.

 

"Rich Hampel" <RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:120120050850027313%RhmpL33@nospam.net...
> Absolutely NOT.
> Once you *start to slide/slip* on ice or snow with the vehicle in 4WD
> the different speeds of the front and rear axels will prevent at least
> two wheels from gaining traction/adhesion. For example a 411 rear
> differential will be matched with a 410 front differential .... one is
> either pulling or dragging the other, front and rear ARE running at
> 'different speeds'. The difference in wheel rpm is small, but is still
> different.; Its probably the reason that a 4WD once it starts to
> slide/slip (on ice or hardpack) is much harder to recover than a 2WD.
> No problem when there is traction and idling down in 4WD; but, when
> there isnt sufficient traction, feathering the brakes in neutral will
> usually allow faster recovery ... but like I stated the brakes had
> better be applying the same torque to all wheels.
> ;-)
>

Think that if you want, but when you get to the bottom of the ditch, or
wrapped around a tree, ALWAYS remember to put the gear selector back into
gear. It is illegal in many states, if not all, to coast in Neutral.

 

scopenutt@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Hi- im john and im a jeep-addict, a telescope-addict
> and i need alot of theripy,
> and i dont spell vry wel ieder.

Sounds like you fit right in here. ;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

scopenutt@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Hi- im john and im a jeep-addict, a telescope-addict
> and i need alot of theripy,
> and i dont spell vry wel ieder.

Sounds like you fit right in here. ;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

scopenutt@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Hi- im john and im a jeep-addict, a telescope-addict
> and i need alot of theripy,
> and i dont spell vry wel ieder.

Sounds like you fit right in here. ;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

My TJ rears lock up really easy on a damp road until they have warmed up a
bit (usually takes about a mile), and is perfectly capable of making me swap
ends. The fronts are also very easy to lock on a damp road. I don't think
I've ever driven a vehicle with such vicious brakes when cold. After a mile
or so, they all lighten up, and the TJ brakes amazingly well (you can't lock
the rears unless you are going very slowly and mash the pedal very hard). To
the best of my knowledge, they are the original pads - 33000 miles on them
(I bought the vehicle at 11500).

Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41E54037.C4FFD14E@sympatico.ca...
> They started putting combination valve into Jeeps in the 70's to prevent
> rear wheel lock up

 

My TJ rears lock up really easy on a damp road until they have warmed up a
bit (usually takes about a mile), and is perfectly capable of making me swap
ends. The fronts are also very easy to lock on a damp road. I don't think
I've ever driven a vehicle with such vicious brakes when cold. After a mile
or so, they all lighten up, and the TJ brakes amazingly well (you can't lock
the rears unless you are going very slowly and mash the pedal very hard). To
the best of my knowledge, they are the original pads - 33000 miles on them
(I bought the vehicle at 11500).

Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41E54037.C4FFD14E@sympatico.ca...
> They started putting combination valve into Jeeps in the 70's to prevent
> rear wheel lock up

 

My TJ rears lock up really easy on a damp road until they have warmed up a
bit (usually takes about a mile), and is perfectly capable of making me swap
ends. The fronts are also very easy to lock on a damp road. I don't think
I've ever driven a vehicle with such vicious brakes when cold. After a mile
or so, they all lighten up, and the TJ brakes amazingly well (you can't lock
the rears unless you are going very slowly and mash the pedal very hard). To
the best of my knowledge, they are the original pads - 33000 miles on them
(I bought the vehicle at 11500).

Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41E54037.C4FFD14E@sympatico.ca...
> They started putting combination valve into Jeeps in the 70's to prevent
> rear wheel lock up

 

That's not nice and is a sign you should think of new shoes sooner than
later. It sounds like they are swelling from humidity when sitting and
cooling. I have had a mess of them die that way here in Toronto
Canada. We are at the bottom of the Great Lakes Basin and the humidity
is insane.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> My TJ rears lock up really easy on a damp road until they have warmed up a
> bit (usually takes about a mile), and is perfectly capable of making me swap
> ends. The fronts are also very easy to lock on a damp road. I don't think
> I've ever driven a vehicle with such vicious brakes when cold. After a mile
> or so, they all lighten up, and the TJ brakes amazingly well (you can't lock
> the rears unless you are going very slowly and mash the pedal very hard). To
> the best of my knowledge, they are the original pads - 33000 miles on them
> (I bought the vehicle at 11500).
>
> Dave Milne, Scotland
> '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41E54037.C4FFD14E@sympatico.ca...
> > They started putting combination valve into Jeeps in the 70's to prevent
> > rear wheel lock up

 

That's not nice and is a sign you should think of new shoes sooner than
later. It sounds like they are swelling from humidity when sitting and
cooling. I have had a mess of them die that way here in Toronto
Canada. We are at the bottom of the Great Lakes Basin and the humidity
is insane.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> My TJ rears lock up really easy on a damp road until they have warmed up a
> bit (usually takes about a mile), and is perfectly capable of making me swap
> ends. The fronts are also very easy to lock on a damp road. I don't think
> I've ever driven a vehicle with such vicious brakes when cold. After a mile
> or so, they all lighten up, and the TJ brakes amazingly well (you can't lock
> the rears unless you are going very slowly and mash the pedal very hard). To
> the best of my knowledge, they are the original pads - 33000 miles on them
> (I bought the vehicle at 11500).
>
> Dave Milne, Scotland
> '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41E54037.C4FFD14E@sympatico.ca...
> > They started putting combination valve into Jeeps in the 70's to prevent
> > rear wheel lock up