The Maintainance chart is now in the owner's Manual:
http://www.----------.com/WJLubeSchedule.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

billy ray wrote:
>
> If we can get Bill to post you a link to the WJ maintenance and Lubrication
> Schedule you can get details on the differences.
>
> I read a story some time ago that according to GM over 90 percent of drivers
> should be following 'severe service' rather than the maintenance schedule
> the manufacturers advertise.
>
> I assume it is similar or higher for Jeeps.

 

Next time you "clean & re-oil" take a finger and wipe the inside of
the tube and see how much dust and dirt gets by, where none is found on
a stock filter. K&N is great for racing where we change the engine at
the other end.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

EDWARD BELLUS wrote:
>
> The K&N on my '01 cost 27 bucks at Advance Auto parts... clean & re-oil
> every 30 to 50K miles w/million mile warranty. Better mpg and
> performance. Look on Ebay for the Quadradrive viscous couplings....I
> guess they go bad often. In Ohio those WJ prices would get the seller
> laughed at, or beaten. I saw a Technical Service Bulletin on the
> alignment remedy(pulls right) thing. If you buy 4.7 V8 , they also made
> H.O.(high output) in certain years. Do a web search on Grand Cherokee
> groups.... NorthAmericanGrandCherokeeAssociation(NAGCA) or
> MallCrawlin'.com are two of MANY. After you get a 4.0 broke in (100K)
> there are "stroker" kits and other hop-up tricks galore.
>
> http://community.webtv.net/EDdaTREE/MUDTHUGS4X4CLUB

 

Next time you "clean & re-oil" take a finger and wipe the inside of
the tube and see how much dust and dirt gets by, where none is found on
a stock filter. K&N is great for racing where we change the engine at
the other end.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

EDWARD BELLUS wrote:
>
> The K&N on my '01 cost 27 bucks at Advance Auto parts... clean & re-oil
> every 30 to 50K miles w/million mile warranty. Better mpg and
> performance. Look on Ebay for the Quadradrive viscous couplings....I
> guess they go bad often. In Ohio those WJ prices would get the seller
> laughed at, or beaten. I saw a Technical Service Bulletin on the
> alignment remedy(pulls right) thing. If you buy 4.7 V8 , they also made
> H.O.(high output) in certain years. Do a web search on Grand Cherokee
> groups.... NorthAmericanGrandCherokeeAssociation(NAGCA) or
> MallCrawlin'.com are two of MANY. After you get a 4.0 broke in (100K)
> there are "stroker" kits and other hop-up tricks galore.
>
> http://community.webtv.net/EDdaTREE/MUDTHUGS4X4CLUB

 

Next time you "clean & re-oil" take a finger and wipe the inside of
the tube and see how much dust and dirt gets by, where none is found on
a stock filter. K&N is great for racing where we change the engine at
the other end.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

EDWARD BELLUS wrote:
>
> The K&N on my '01 cost 27 bucks at Advance Auto parts... clean & re-oil
> every 30 to 50K miles w/million mile warranty. Better mpg and
> performance. Look on Ebay for the Quadradrive viscous couplings....I
> guess they go bad often. In Ohio those WJ prices would get the seller
> laughed at, or beaten. I saw a Technical Service Bulletin on the
> alignment remedy(pulls right) thing. If you buy 4.7 V8 , they also made
> H.O.(high output) in certain years. Do a web search on Grand Cherokee
> groups.... NorthAmericanGrandCherokeeAssociation(NAGCA) or
> MallCrawlin'.com are two of MANY. After you get a 4.0 broke in (100K)
> there are "stroker" kits and other hop-up tricks galore.
>
> http://community.webtv.net/EDdaTREE/MUDTHUGS4X4CLUB

 

Next time you "clean & re-oil" take a finger and wipe the inside of
the tube and see how much dust and dirt gets by, where none is found on
a stock filter. K&N is great for racing where we change the engine at
the other end.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

EDWARD BELLUS wrote:
>
> The K&N on my '01 cost 27 bucks at Advance Auto parts... clean & re-oil
> every 30 to 50K miles w/million mile warranty. Better mpg and
> performance. Look on Ebay for the Quadradrive viscous couplings....I
> guess they go bad often. In Ohio those WJ prices would get the seller
> laughed at, or beaten. I saw a Technical Service Bulletin on the
> alignment remedy(pulls right) thing. If you buy 4.7 V8 , they also made
> H.O.(high output) in certain years. Do a web search on Grand Cherokee
> groups.... NorthAmericanGrandCherokeeAssociation(NAGCA) or
> MallCrawlin'.com are two of MANY. After you get a 4.0 broke in (100K)
> there are "stroker" kits and other hop-up tricks galore.
>
> http://community.webtv.net/EDdaTREE/MUDTHUGS4X4CLUB

 

In addition to the build sheet which is on DC's computer, if buying from
a Jeep dealer a friendly service advisor can pull up the warranty claim
history on his computer. This won't show routine service or non-warranty
repairs and may be less useful for higher mileage vehicles, but if
something has been torn apart multiple times, at least you'll know.

I have to agree about the 4.0 and towing. My boat is just under 3,000
lbs. and my '97 ZJ without factory tow and the standard 3.55 axle hauls
it just fine, far better than the V6 Exploder I had in a previous life.
The 4.0 has a lot of torque at useable RPM and when not towing cruises
quite happily down the Interstate doing 70 mph at a hair over 2,000 rpm
while showing 24 mpg on the trip computer. If I could wave a magic wand
and make my ZJ new again I'd do it.

IMO DC has gone the wrong way with the new GC in making it longer,
wider, etc. I suspect it has more in common with a Dodge Durago than a
WJ. ;-)

In article <42d35$44c12ce4$48311eaf$3179@FUSE.NET>,
billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net says...
> The Dana44 in question is the 44a (aluminum), not the regular 44 which is
> iron. The two share little in common.
>
> There are strength issues for both available axles (d44a & d35c) and it may
> well be a toss-up as to which one is preferable or superior.
>
> I believe that both WJs in question had the factory tow package which comes
> standard with the d44a and 3.73 gearing.
>
> The 4 liter engine gets a lot of criticism on some boards in regards to
> performance. It is true that it won't win many drag races but is perfectly
> adequate for normal operation and towing. When towing in the mountains it
> is necessary to lock out overdrive.
>
> On the other hand it had a proven durability of several hundred thousand
> miles before a major rebuild is required.
>
> Please note that in my previous post I mentioned the NV249 transfer case.
> While it also has its problems I should have said nv247 AWD case.
>
> In any case be sure to get a 'build sheet' from the dealership (or via
> e-mail). They offer a wealth of information at no charge.
>
>

 

In addition to the build sheet which is on DC's computer, if buying from
a Jeep dealer a friendly service advisor can pull up the warranty claim
history on his computer. This won't show routine service or non-warranty
repairs and may be less useful for higher mileage vehicles, but if
something has been torn apart multiple times, at least you'll know.

I have to agree about the 4.0 and towing. My boat is just under 3,000
lbs. and my '97 ZJ without factory tow and the standard 3.55 axle hauls
it just fine, far better than the V6 Exploder I had in a previous life.
The 4.0 has a lot of torque at useable RPM and when not towing cruises
quite happily down the Interstate doing 70 mph at a hair over 2,000 rpm
while showing 24 mpg on the trip computer. If I could wave a magic wand
and make my ZJ new again I'd do it.

IMO DC has gone the wrong way with the new GC in making it longer,
wider, etc. I suspect it has more in common with a Dodge Durago than a
WJ. ;-)

In article <42d35$44c12ce4$48311eaf$3179@FUSE.NET>,
billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net says...
> The Dana44 in question is the 44a (aluminum), not the regular 44 which is
> iron. The two share little in common.
>
> There are strength issues for both available axles (d44a & d35c) and it may
> well be a toss-up as to which one is preferable or superior.
>
> I believe that both WJs in question had the factory tow package which comes
> standard with the d44a and 3.73 gearing.
>
> The 4 liter engine gets a lot of criticism on some boards in regards to
> performance. It is true that it won't win many drag races but is perfectly
> adequate for normal operation and towing. When towing in the mountains it
> is necessary to lock out overdrive.
>
> On the other hand it had a proven durability of several hundred thousand
> miles before a major rebuild is required.
>
> Please note that in my previous post I mentioned the NV249 transfer case.
> While it also has its problems I should have said nv247 AWD case.
>
> In any case be sure to get a 'build sheet' from the dealership (or via
> e-mail). They offer a wealth of information at no charge.
>
>

 

In addition to the build sheet which is on DC's computer, if buying from
a Jeep dealer a friendly service advisor can pull up the warranty claim
history on his computer. This won't show routine service or non-warranty
repairs and may be less useful for higher mileage vehicles, but if
something has been torn apart multiple times, at least you'll know.

I have to agree about the 4.0 and towing. My boat is just under 3,000
lbs. and my '97 ZJ without factory tow and the standard 3.55 axle hauls
it just fine, far better than the V6 Exploder I had in a previous life.
The 4.0 has a lot of torque at useable RPM and when not towing cruises
quite happily down the Interstate doing 70 mph at a hair over 2,000 rpm
while showing 24 mpg on the trip computer. If I could wave a magic wand
and make my ZJ new again I'd do it.

IMO DC has gone the wrong way with the new GC in making it longer,
wider, etc. I suspect it has more in common with a Dodge Durago than a
WJ. ;-)

In article <42d35$44c12ce4$48311eaf$3179@FUSE.NET>,
billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net says...
> The Dana44 in question is the 44a (aluminum), not the regular 44 which is
> iron. The two share little in common.
>
> There are strength issues for both available axles (d44a & d35c) and it may
> well be a toss-up as to which one is preferable or superior.
>
> I believe that both WJs in question had the factory tow package which comes
> standard with the d44a and 3.73 gearing.
>
> The 4 liter engine gets a lot of criticism on some boards in regards to
> performance. It is true that it won't win many drag races but is perfectly
> adequate for normal operation and towing. When towing in the mountains it
> is necessary to lock out overdrive.
>
> On the other hand it had a proven durability of several hundred thousand
> miles before a major rebuild is required.
>
> Please note that in my previous post I mentioned the NV249 transfer case.
> While it also has its problems I should have said nv247 AWD case.
>
> In any case be sure to get a 'build sheet' from the dealership (or via
> e-mail). They offer a wealth of information at no charge.
>
>

 

In addition to the build sheet which is on DC's computer, if buying from
a Jeep dealer a friendly service advisor can pull up the warranty claim
history on his computer. This won't show routine service or non-warranty
repairs and may be less useful for higher mileage vehicles, but if
something has been torn apart multiple times, at least you'll know.

I have to agree about the 4.0 and towing. My boat is just under 3,000
lbs. and my '97 ZJ without factory tow and the standard 3.55 axle hauls
it just fine, far better than the V6 Exploder I had in a previous life.
The 4.0 has a lot of torque at useable RPM and when not towing cruises
quite happily down the Interstate doing 70 mph at a hair over 2,000 rpm
while showing 24 mpg on the trip computer. If I could wave a magic wand
and make my ZJ new again I'd do it.

IMO DC has gone the wrong way with the new GC in making it longer,
wider, etc. I suspect it has more in common with a Dodge Durago than a
WJ. ;-)

In article <42d35$44c12ce4$48311eaf$3179@FUSE.NET>,
billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net says...
> The Dana44 in question is the 44a (aluminum), not the regular 44 which is
> iron. The two share little in common.
>
> There are strength issues for both available axles (d44a & d35c) and it may
> well be a toss-up as to which one is preferable or superior.
>
> I believe that both WJs in question had the factory tow package which comes
> standard with the d44a and 3.73 gearing.
>
> The 4 liter engine gets a lot of criticism on some boards in regards to
> performance. It is true that it won't win many drag races but is perfectly
> adequate for normal operation and towing. When towing in the mountains it
> is necessary to lock out overdrive.
>
> On the other hand it had a proven durability of several hundred thousand
> miles before a major rebuild is required.
>
> Please note that in my previous post I mentioned the NV249 transfer case.
> While it also has its problems I should have said nv247 AWD case.
>
> In any case be sure to get a 'build sheet' from the dealership (or via
> e-mail). They offer a wealth of information at no charge.
>
>

 

Problem is that most folks think short commutes at city street speeds
are better for a vehicle than a 30 mile high speed freeway run. Fluids
never get hot enough to burn off condensation.

billy ray proclaimed:
> If we can get Bill to post you a link to the WJ maintenance and Lubrication
> Schedule you can get details on the differences.
>
> I read a story some time ago that according to GM over 90 percent of drivers
> should be following 'severe service' rather than the maintenance schedule
> the manufacturers advertise.
>
>
> I assume it is similar or higher for Jeeps.
>
>
>
> "D" <dpfer@r.com> wrote in message
> news:TbYvg.6947$PN4.394@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
>>Billy Ray,
>>What a great site ! ! ! THanks so much! That will really help.
>>So, taking the dash out is a job huh? That's an understatement. Heh.
>>Thanks for the explanation of 'severe service'.
>>I do appreciate all the help. It clears a lot up for me.
>>D
>>
>>"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>news:94006$44c04b27$48311eaf$7039@FUSE.NET...
>>
>>>There is blend door write up on WJ Jeeps at:
>>>http://www.wjjeeps.com/hvac_sub_assembly.htm
>>>
>>>In 'severe service' you replace most of the underbody lubricants on a
>>
>>yearly
>>
>>>basis, on the other schedule they are 'lifetime' fluids.
>>>
>>>I would also take the vehicle to a dead end street or parking lot at
>>>night
>>>(when it is quieter) and listen for noises/bindings while at slow speed
>>>going from full lock to lock
>>>
>>>I was somewhat surprised at the lack of tire options myself. This is
>>>compounded by a lack of information about what other 17 inch sizes will
>>>actually fit without interference or lifting.
>>>
>>>I suspect that mileage would be somewhat better with the Selec-Trac but
>>
>>I've
>>
>>>never heard that it was very much.
>>>
>>>
>>>"D" <dpfer@r.com> wrote in message
>>>news:fyWvg.1801$D%4.1387@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>>
>>>>Thanks Billy Ray. I agree. Most of the problems with my 93 ZJ inline 6
>>>>have
>>>>been the accessories. Does that blend door cause the whole system to
>>
>>fail?
>>
>>>>I'm sorry, I don't understand your second paragraph here. I assume the
>>>>nv249
>>>>xfer case is the Quadra-Drive? What is the 'severe service' maintenance
>>>>you
>>>>mention? There was no binding, stiffness or noise from the underside
>>>>during
>>>>a 5 mile test drive. I did try to make several sharp, lock to lock
>>>>turns
>>>>during it for that reason. I was surprised a full time 4WD could be so
>>>>smooth.
>>>>Do I understand you to say that the Select-Trac is more durable in your
>>>>opinion than the Quadra? Is this because it is only an occassional
>>>>part-time
>>>>use of the system? I would think that gas mileage might be better with
>>
>>the
>>
>>>>Selec-Trac since you're not driving the front wheels all the time too.
>>>>I have done the resistor checkout in my 93. I agree, simple and easy
>>
>>fix.
>>
>>>>I
>>>>am a recovering shade-tree guy anyway.
>>>>I don't care really too much about the hooks or the CD changer really.
>>>>I
>>>>just put that in cause it came to mind, but thanks.
>>>>The tire reference is very telling. I do appreciate that type of
>>>>information.
>>>>Thanks for your input. Any other thoughts?
>>>>
>>>>"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>>>news:a83dc$44c0281f$48311eaf$5046@FUSE.NET.. .
>>>>
>>>>>The doo-dads, gee-gaw, and bling bling in the Limiteds and Overlands
>>
>>are
>>
>>>>the
>>>>
>>>>>most common cause of expensive repairs.
>>>>>
>>>>>The Limited's automatic temperature control system have a well known
>>>>>tendency of developing the 'blend door' syndrome where you will get in
>>>>>the
>>>>>vehicle one day and find yourself needing a $1000-$1200 worth of labor
>>
>>to
>>
>>>>>get the heat or A/C to work as the dash needs to be removed to replace
>>>>>$12
>>>>>in parts. There may well be no warning before failure
>>>>>
>>>>>The nv249 transfer case is also a point of weakness, especially in a
>>>>
>>>>vehicle
>>>>
>>>>>that hasn't had 'severe service' maintenance performed. Pay special
>>>>>attention to ANY noise, stiffness, resistance, clunking when
>>
>>accelerating
>>
>>>>>and especially turning which would indicate failure is approaching.
>>
>>When
>>
>>>>it
>>>>
>>>>>fails you will be, literally, stuck wherever the failure occurs. The
>>>>>real
>>>>>'fix' for this situation is to swap in a nv242 Selec-Trac transfer
>>
>>case.
>>
>>>>>The Laredo's heat/air system lacks the trouble prone components of the
>>>>
>>>>ATC.
>>>>
>>>>>There is a known problem in the resistor block that controls the fan
>>>>
>>>>speeds.
>>>>
>>>>>It is located underneath the glovebox and is easily replaced in your
>>>>>driveway in a few minutes
>>>>>
>>>>>If you want tow hooks they are available at the dealer parts
>>>>>department
>>>>>in
>>>>>chrome or black for less than $100 for the front or, if you are handy,
>>>>>you
>>>>>can install them yourself and save the labor charge The CD changer
>>>>>can
>>>>
>>>>also
>>>>
>>>>>be added at anytime, the changer controls are, most likely, already in
>>>>
>>>>your
>>>>
>>>>>factory radio.
>>>>>
>>>>>Other differences.
>>>>>
>>>>>Laredos have 16 inch wheels that offer a large amount of choice in
>>>>>highway
>>>>>and off-road tires. The Limiteds have 17 inch wheels and their
>>
>>specific
>>
>>>>>size (235/65x17) is only made by a couple brands.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>"D" <dpfer@r.com> wrote in message
>>>>>news:73Vvg.1760$D%4.711@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>>>>
>>>>>>Hi All,
>>>>>>I hope you might indulge me with an exercise on the value of two
>>>>
>>>>vehicles
>>>>
>>>>>>I'm comparing for purchase.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Vehicle 1 is a 2002 Grand Cherokee, Limited with 82,500 miles. Very
>>>>
>>>>clean
>>>>
>>>>>>and mechanically inspected. 4.7 Liter V-8 with the Quadra-Drive
>>
>>system.
>>
>>>>>>Other baubles, leather, moon-roof, factory tow pkg., tow hooks on
>>>>>>front,
>>>>>>dual temp controls, 10 CD changer and cassette player, side impact
>>>>>>airbags,
>>>>>>90 day warranty. Car drives out very nice. Asking $13,999, will come
>>>>
>>>>down
>>>>
>>>>>>some from that.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Vehicle 2 is a 2002 Grand Cherokee, Laredo with 37,950 miles. Also
>>
>>very
>>
>>>>>>clean but as-is. 4.7 Liter V-8 with a Selec-Trac system. Other
>>
>>options
>>
>>>>>>make
>>>>>>it like a Limited. Leather, moon-roof, factory tow pkg., no tow
>>>>>>hooks
>>>>>>though, single temp control, single CD and cassette player, driver
>>
>>and
>>
>>>>>>passenger airbags, 30 day warranty. Drives out very nice. Lowest
>>
>>price,
>>
>>>>>>$15,200
>>>>>>
>>>>>>V-1 is cherry, obviously a highway car.
>>>>>>V-1 seems like a mongrel with the V-8/Selec-Trac system and the
>>
>>Limited
>>
>>>>>>trim
>>>>>>on a Laredo.
>>>>>>Any candid thoughts?
>>>>>>I'm particularly interested to know if the Selec-Trac system is good
>>>>>>behind
>>>>>>that V-8. I think it might save a bit on gas mileage maybe.
>>>>>>Thanks.
>>>>>>D
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>
>