JimG

My question was "Did you remove your t-case lowering kit after the SYE?"

"Eric" wrote in message ...
> Of course not! Why install an SYE and not remove the t-case kit?!?
(contradiction)

After re-reading your original post ("put the drivetrain back where it
should have been..."), I take it that you removed the t-case lowering kit.

>Should've measured it without the lowering kit on...
The Jeep had all that on (lift, t-case kit, SYE, CV drive shaft) when I
bought it. My rear drive shaft is practically a straight line. Looks to me
as if the t-case kit is not necessary.

JimG

twaldron

JVC wrote:

> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
> wheel shake and the shifting.
>
> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
> making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
> tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
> difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
> them on the web if you want to see anything.

You have GOT to check EVERY last bolt that you loosened, replaced or
even glanced at. Something is loose. Once you've checked everything,
check it again. It might not look loose, but when forces are applied,
it's loose. Did you use a torque wrench?

> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
> old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
> stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?

It might, but it won't solve your bad tire balance problem. Fix the
problem, then get the HD stabilizer if you want. Also, re-re-recheck
your trackbar.

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

twaldron

JVC wrote:

> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
> wheel shake and the shifting.
>
> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
> making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
> tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
> difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
> them on the web if you want to see anything.

You have GOT to check EVERY last bolt that you loosened, replaced or
even glanced at. Something is loose. Once you've checked everything,
check it again. It might not look loose, but when forces are applied,
it's loose. Did you use a torque wrench?

> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
> old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
> stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?

It might, but it won't solve your bad tire balance problem. Fix the
problem, then get the HD stabilizer if you want. Also, re-re-recheck
your trackbar.

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

twaldron

JVC wrote:

> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
> wheel shake and the shifting.
>
> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
> making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
> tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
> difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
> them on the web if you want to see anything.

You have GOT to check EVERY last bolt that you loosened, replaced or
even glanced at. Something is loose. Once you've checked everything,
check it again. It might not look loose, but when forces are applied,
it's loose. Did you use a torque wrench?

> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
> old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
> stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?

It might, but it won't solve your bad tire balance problem. Fix the
problem, then get the HD stabilizer if you want. Also, re-re-recheck
your trackbar.

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

JVC

Okay, I get it now. Sorry, I'm a little slow sometimes. Thanks!

Eric wrote:

>That's what I did -- lift the boot. No, an SYE isn't "necessary". Just
>depends on what you want. I didn't want to grind out my tuffy console and
>wanted to get my skidplate tucked back up under me -- thus the SYE was
>necessary for me.
>
>That and I couldn't put soda/water bottles in the front cupholder -- new
>shift pattern prevented that. Wasn't going to put up with that!!! ;-)
>
>Eric
>

JVC

Okay, I get it now. Sorry, I'm a little slow sometimes. Thanks!

Eric wrote:

>That's what I did -- lift the boot. No, an SYE isn't "necessary". Just
>depends on what you want. I didn't want to grind out my tuffy console and
>wanted to get my skidplate tucked back up under me -- thus the SYE was
>necessary for me.
>
>That and I couldn't put soda/water bottles in the front cupholder -- new
>shift pattern prevented that. Wasn't going to put up with that!!! ;-)
>
>Eric
>

JVC

Okay, I get it now. Sorry, I'm a little slow sometimes. Thanks!

Eric wrote:

>That's what I did -- lift the boot. No, an SYE isn't "necessary". Just
>depends on what you want. I didn't want to grind out my tuffy console and
>wanted to get my skidplate tucked back up under me -- thus the SYE was
>necessary for me.
>
>That and I couldn't put soda/water bottles in the front cupholder -- new
>shift pattern prevented that. Wasn't going to put up with that!!! ;-)
>
>Eric
>

JVC

For some reason my gut was telling me front trackbar. I'm not sure why,
but that's what my gut is/was saying. On this particular lift you are
supposed to drill a new hole 3/4" to the right (center-to-center) of the
original, then reinstall the OEM track bar. I found that Black Diamond
also sells an adjustable front track bar that utilizes the OEM mounting
location. I am wondering if this will solve my problem. I checked
everything with a torque wrench. Per the instructions the relocated
track bar should be 55 ft/lbs. Three times I've taken the torque wrench
to it and all three times it clicked before the bolt moved.

twaldron wrote:

> JVC wrote:
>
>> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
>> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
>> wheel shake and the shifting.
>>
>> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only
>> when making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only
>> during a tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop
>> will make a difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my
>> digicam and post them on the web if you want to see anything.
>
>
> You have GOT to check EVERY last bolt that you loosened, replaced or
> even glanced at. Something is loose. Once you've checked everything,
> check it again. It might not look loose, but when forces are applied,
> it's loose. Did you use a torque wrench?
>
>> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
>> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
>> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on
>> my old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the
>> steering stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
>
>
> It might, but it won't solve your bad tire balance problem. Fix the
> problem, then get the HD stabilizer if you want. Also, re-re-recheck
> your trackbar.
>

JVC

For some reason my gut was telling me front trackbar. I'm not sure why,
but that's what my gut is/was saying. On this particular lift you are
supposed to drill a new hole 3/4" to the right (center-to-center) of the
original, then reinstall the OEM track bar. I found that Black Diamond
also sells an adjustable front track bar that utilizes the OEM mounting
location. I am wondering if this will solve my problem. I checked
everything with a torque wrench. Per the instructions the relocated
track bar should be 55 ft/lbs. Three times I've taken the torque wrench
to it and all three times it clicked before the bolt moved.

twaldron wrote:

> JVC wrote:
>
>> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
>> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
>> wheel shake and the shifting.
>>
>> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only
>> when making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only
>> during a tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop
>> will make a difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my
>> digicam and post them on the web if you want to see anything.
>
>
> You have GOT to check EVERY last bolt that you loosened, replaced or
> even glanced at. Something is loose. Once you've checked everything,
> check it again. It might not look loose, but when forces are applied,
> it's loose. Did you use a torque wrench?
>
>> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
>> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
>> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on
>> my old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the
>> steering stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
>
>
> It might, but it won't solve your bad tire balance problem. Fix the
> problem, then get the HD stabilizer if you want. Also, re-re-recheck
> your trackbar.
>

JVC

For some reason my gut was telling me front trackbar. I'm not sure why,
but that's what my gut is/was saying. On this particular lift you are
supposed to drill a new hole 3/4" to the right (center-to-center) of the
original, then reinstall the OEM track bar. I found that Black Diamond
also sells an adjustable front track bar that utilizes the OEM mounting
location. I am wondering if this will solve my problem. I checked
everything with a torque wrench. Per the instructions the relocated
track bar should be 55 ft/lbs. Three times I've taken the torque wrench
to it and all three times it clicked before the bolt moved.

twaldron wrote:

> JVC wrote:
>
>> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
>> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
>> wheel shake and the shifting.
>>
>> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only
>> when making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only
>> during a tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop
>> will make a difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my
>> digicam and post them on the web if you want to see anything.
>
>
> You have GOT to check EVERY last bolt that you loosened, replaced or
> even glanced at. Something is loose. Once you've checked everything,
> check it again. It might not look loose, but when forces are applied,
> it's loose. Did you use a torque wrench?
>
>> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
>> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
>> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on
>> my old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the
>> steering stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
>
>
> It might, but it won't solve your bad tire balance problem. Fix the
> problem, then get the HD stabilizer if you want. Also, re-re-recheck
> your trackbar.
>