twaldron

An adjustable track bar won't make any difference. A loose track bar is
a loose track bar. You can make the setup you've got work just fine.
It's use is to fine tune the centering of the axle. If you have a
partner, get them to crank the steering wheel left to right and watch
the bar for looseness. You might want to boost the ft. lbs. up a touch
to 60 or so, but not too much or you'll twist the bolt in half.

The other thing to check is tire balance, even if "you've just had them
balanced". I could go on about the woes of using inept tire busters, but
the post would be too much to read here. Fact is, there aren't many tire
busters that can properly balance large tires. If you happen to find
one, follow him around from shop to shop. More than likely, your tires
are out of balance. You haven't mentioned the story on your tires.

JVC wrote:

> For some reason my gut was telling me front trackbar. I'm not sure why,
> but that's what my gut is/was saying. On this particular lift you are
> supposed to drill a new hole 3/4" to the right (center-to-center) of the
> original, then reinstall the OEM track bar. I found that Black Diamond
> also sells an adjustable front track bar that utilizes the OEM mounting
> location. I am wondering if this will solve my problem. I checked
> everything with a torque wrench. Per the instructions the relocated
> track bar should be 55 ft/lbs. Three times I've taken the torque wrench
> to it and all three times it clicked before the bolt moved.
>
> twaldron wrote:
>
>> JVC wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
>>> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
>>> wheel shake and the shifting.
>>>
>>> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only
>>> when making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only
>>> during a tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop
>>> will make a difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my
>>> digicam and post them on the web if you want to see anything.
>>
>>
>>
>> You have GOT to check EVERY last bolt that you loosened, replaced or
>> even glanced at. Something is loose. Once you've checked everything,
>> check it again. It might not look loose, but when forces are applied,
>> it's loose. Did you use a torque wrench?
>>
>>> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
>>> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
>>> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on
>>> my old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the
>>> steering stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
>>
>>
>>
>> It might, but it won't solve your bad tire balance problem. Fix the
>> problem, then get the HD stabilizer if you want. Also, re-re-recheck
>> your trackbar.
>>
>

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

twaldron

An adjustable track bar won't make any difference. A loose track bar is
a loose track bar. You can make the setup you've got work just fine.
It's use is to fine tune the centering of the axle. If you have a
partner, get them to crank the steering wheel left to right and watch
the bar for looseness. You might want to boost the ft. lbs. up a touch
to 60 or so, but not too much or you'll twist the bolt in half.

The other thing to check is tire balance, even if "you've just had them
balanced". I could go on about the woes of using inept tire busters, but
the post would be too much to read here. Fact is, there aren't many tire
busters that can properly balance large tires. If you happen to find
one, follow him around from shop to shop. More than likely, your tires
are out of balance. You haven't mentioned the story on your tires.

JVC wrote:

> For some reason my gut was telling me front trackbar. I'm not sure why,
> but that's what my gut is/was saying. On this particular lift you are
> supposed to drill a new hole 3/4" to the right (center-to-center) of the
> original, then reinstall the OEM track bar. I found that Black Diamond
> also sells an adjustable front track bar that utilizes the OEM mounting
> location. I am wondering if this will solve my problem. I checked
> everything with a torque wrench. Per the instructions the relocated
> track bar should be 55 ft/lbs. Three times I've taken the torque wrench
> to it and all three times it clicked before the bolt moved.
>
> twaldron wrote:
>
>> JVC wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
>>> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
>>> wheel shake and the shifting.
>>>
>>> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only
>>> when making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only
>>> during a tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop
>>> will make a difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my
>>> digicam and post them on the web if you want to see anything.
>>
>>
>>
>> You have GOT to check EVERY last bolt that you loosened, replaced or
>> even glanced at. Something is loose. Once you've checked everything,
>> check it again. It might not look loose, but when forces are applied,
>> it's loose. Did you use a torque wrench?
>>
>>> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
>>> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
>>> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on
>>> my old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the
>>> steering stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
>>
>>
>>
>> It might, but it won't solve your bad tire balance problem. Fix the
>> problem, then get the HD stabilizer if you want. Also, re-re-recheck
>> your trackbar.
>>
>

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

twaldron

An adjustable track bar won't make any difference. A loose track bar is
a loose track bar. You can make the setup you've got work just fine.
It's use is to fine tune the centering of the axle. If you have a
partner, get them to crank the steering wheel left to right and watch
the bar for looseness. You might want to boost the ft. lbs. up a touch
to 60 or so, but not too much or you'll twist the bolt in half.

The other thing to check is tire balance, even if "you've just had them
balanced". I could go on about the woes of using inept tire busters, but
the post would be too much to read here. Fact is, there aren't many tire
busters that can properly balance large tires. If you happen to find
one, follow him around from shop to shop. More than likely, your tires
are out of balance. You haven't mentioned the story on your tires.

JVC wrote:

> For some reason my gut was telling me front trackbar. I'm not sure why,
> but that's what my gut is/was saying. On this particular lift you are
> supposed to drill a new hole 3/4" to the right (center-to-center) of the
> original, then reinstall the OEM track bar. I found that Black Diamond
> also sells an adjustable front track bar that utilizes the OEM mounting
> location. I am wondering if this will solve my problem. I checked
> everything with a torque wrench. Per the instructions the relocated
> track bar should be 55 ft/lbs. Three times I've taken the torque wrench
> to it and all three times it clicked before the bolt moved.
>
> twaldron wrote:
>
>> JVC wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
>>> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
>>> wheel shake and the shifting.
>>>
>>> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only
>>> when making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only
>>> during a tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop
>>> will make a difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my
>>> digicam and post them on the web if you want to see anything.
>>
>>
>>
>> You have GOT to check EVERY last bolt that you loosened, replaced or
>> even glanced at. Something is loose. Once you've checked everything,
>> check it again. It might not look loose, but when forces are applied,
>> it's loose. Did you use a torque wrench?
>>
>>> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
>>> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
>>> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on
>>> my old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the
>>> steering stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
>>
>>
>>
>> It might, but it won't solve your bad tire balance problem. Fix the
>> problem, then get the HD stabilizer if you want. Also, re-re-recheck
>> your trackbar.
>>
>

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

Eric

If it's good the way it is, I'd leave the kit on. Of course it isn't
difficult to remove (10 minutes, max). You could remove it, drive around
the block a few times and see what the vibes are like. A short drive isn't
going to kill it -- if the vibes are bad, don't go over 25. I hear that's
the "magic number" where damage starts to occur...

Eric
"JimG" <JimG@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:lRqgd.1004$oa5.544@news02.roc.ny...
> My question was "Did you remove your t-case lowering kit after the SYE?"
>
> "Eric" wrote in message ...
>> Of course not! Why install an SYE and not remove the t-case kit?!?
> (contradiction)
>
> After re-reading your original post ("put the drivetrain back where it
> should have been..."), I take it that you removed the t-case lowering kit.
>
>>Should've measured it without the lowering kit on...
> The Jeep had all that on (lift, t-case kit, SYE, CV drive shaft) when I
> bought it. My rear drive shaft is practically a straight line. Looks to
> me as if the t-case kit is not necessary.
>
> JimG
>

Eric

If it's good the way it is, I'd leave the kit on. Of course it isn't
difficult to remove (10 minutes, max). You could remove it, drive around
the block a few times and see what the vibes are like. A short drive isn't
going to kill it -- if the vibes are bad, don't go over 25. I hear that's
the "magic number" where damage starts to occur...

Eric
"JimG" <JimG@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:lRqgd.1004$oa5.544@news02.roc.ny...
> My question was "Did you remove your t-case lowering kit after the SYE?"
>
> "Eric" wrote in message ...
>> Of course not! Why install an SYE and not remove the t-case kit?!?
> (contradiction)
>
> After re-reading your original post ("put the drivetrain back where it
> should have been..."), I take it that you removed the t-case lowering kit.
>
>>Should've measured it without the lowering kit on...
> The Jeep had all that on (lift, t-case kit, SYE, CV drive shaft) when I
> bought it. My rear drive shaft is practically a straight line. Looks to
> me as if the t-case kit is not necessary.
>
> JimG
>

Eric

If it's good the way it is, I'd leave the kit on. Of course it isn't
difficult to remove (10 minutes, max). You could remove it, drive around
the block a few times and see what the vibes are like. A short drive isn't
going to kill it -- if the vibes are bad, don't go over 25. I hear that's
the "magic number" where damage starts to occur...

Eric
"JimG" <JimG@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:lRqgd.1004$oa5.544@news02.roc.ny...
> My question was "Did you remove your t-case lowering kit after the SYE?"
>
> "Eric" wrote in message ...
>> Of course not! Why install an SYE and not remove the t-case kit?!?
> (contradiction)
>
> After re-reading your original post ("put the drivetrain back where it
> should have been..."), I take it that you removed the t-case lowering kit.
>
>>Should've measured it without the lowering kit on...
> The Jeep had all that on (lift, t-case kit, SYE, CV drive shaft) when I
> bought it. My rear drive shaft is practically a straight line. Looks to
> me as if the t-case kit is not necessary.
>
> JimG
>

twaldron

HAH??? If you have an SYE kit and CV driveshaft, you DO NOT NEED a
transfer case lowering kit. REMVOE IT. If you keep it, you are defeating
the purpose of the lift.....and I don't know where the 25mph figure
comes from. You would have to drive the thing for a while with serious
vibes to do any damage. Just adjust the pinion and you are fine.

Eric wrote:

> If it's good the way it is, I'd leave the kit on. Of course it isn't
> difficult to remove (10 minutes, max). You could remove it, drive around
> the block a few times and see what the vibes are like. A short drive isn't
> going to kill it -- if the vibes are bad, don't go over 25. I hear that's
> the "magic number" where damage starts to occur...
>
> Eric
> "JimG" <JimG@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:lRqgd.1004$oa5.544@news02.roc.ny...
>
>>My question was "Did you remove your t-case lowering kit after the SYE?"
>>
>>"Eric" wrote in message ...
>>
>>>Of course not! Why install an SYE and not remove the t-case kit?!?
>>
>>(contradiction)
>>
>>After re-reading your original post ("put the drivetrain back where it
>>should have been..."), I take it that you removed the t-case lowering kit.
>>
>>
>>>Should've measured it without the lowering kit on...
>>
>>The Jeep had all that on (lift, t-case kit, SYE, CV drive shaft) when I
>>bought it. My rear drive shaft is practically a straight line. Looks to
>>me as if the t-case kit is not necessary.
>>
>>JimG
>>
>
>
>

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

twaldron

HAH??? If you have an SYE kit and CV driveshaft, you DO NOT NEED a
transfer case lowering kit. REMVOE IT. If you keep it, you are defeating
the purpose of the lift.....and I don't know where the 25mph figure
comes from. You would have to drive the thing for a while with serious
vibes to do any damage. Just adjust the pinion and you are fine.

Eric wrote:

> If it's good the way it is, I'd leave the kit on. Of course it isn't
> difficult to remove (10 minutes, max). You could remove it, drive around
> the block a few times and see what the vibes are like. A short drive isn't
> going to kill it -- if the vibes are bad, don't go over 25. I hear that's
> the "magic number" where damage starts to occur...
>
> Eric
> "JimG" <JimG@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:lRqgd.1004$oa5.544@news02.roc.ny...
>
>>My question was "Did you remove your t-case lowering kit after the SYE?"
>>
>>"Eric" wrote in message ...
>>
>>>Of course not! Why install an SYE and not remove the t-case kit?!?
>>
>>(contradiction)
>>
>>After re-reading your original post ("put the drivetrain back where it
>>should have been..."), I take it that you removed the t-case lowering kit.
>>
>>
>>>Should've measured it without the lowering kit on...
>>
>>The Jeep had all that on (lift, t-case kit, SYE, CV drive shaft) when I
>>bought it. My rear drive shaft is practically a straight line. Looks to
>>me as if the t-case kit is not necessary.
>>
>>JimG
>>
>
>
>

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

twaldron

HAH??? If you have an SYE kit and CV driveshaft, you DO NOT NEED a
transfer case lowering kit. REMVOE IT. If you keep it, you are defeating
the purpose of the lift.....and I don't know where the 25mph figure
comes from. You would have to drive the thing for a while with serious
vibes to do any damage. Just adjust the pinion and you are fine.

Eric wrote:

> If it's good the way it is, I'd leave the kit on. Of course it isn't
> difficult to remove (10 minutes, max). You could remove it, drive around
> the block a few times and see what the vibes are like. A short drive isn't
> going to kill it -- if the vibes are bad, don't go over 25. I hear that's
> the "magic number" where damage starts to occur...
>
> Eric
> "JimG" <JimG@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:lRqgd.1004$oa5.544@news02.roc.ny...
>
>>My question was "Did you remove your t-case lowering kit after the SYE?"
>>
>>"Eric" wrote in message ...
>>
>>>Of course not! Why install an SYE and not remove the t-case kit?!?
>>
>>(contradiction)
>>
>>After re-reading your original post ("put the drivetrain back where it
>>should have been..."), I take it that you removed the t-case lowering kit.
>>
>>
>>>Should've measured it without the lowering kit on...
>>
>>The Jeep had all that on (lift, t-case kit, SYE, CV drive shaft) when I
>>bought it. My rear drive shaft is practically a straight line. Looks to
>>me as if the t-case kit is not necessary.
>>
>>JimG
>>
>
>
>

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

Eric

Hah? What was that?

If you left the lowering kit in and measured for the new driveshaft, it
might not be the right length, thus causing vibes. Rediculous example -- I
have 3" drop tubes. I install the SYE kit, measure for a new CV driveshaft
and get it in. Oops, now I get rid of the tubes but use the same
driveshaft. Could cause problems.

Fixing the pinion can be a hassle for those that don't have leafs in the
rear... if it had to be adjusted enough one would have to grind off and
remount all of the mounts on the axle housing (shocks, spring cups, etc).

Eric
99 TJ SE
"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:2jEgd.14080$Al3.12354@newssvr30.news.prodigy. com...
> HAH??? If you have an SYE kit and CV driveshaft, you DO NOT NEED a
> transfer case lowering kit. REMVOE IT. If you keep it, you are defeating
> the purpose of the lift.....and I don't know where the 25mph figure comes
> from. You would have to drive the thing for a while with serious vibes to
> do any damage. Just adjust the pinion and you are fine.
>
> Eric wrote:
>
>> If it's good the way it is, I'd leave the kit on. Of course it isn't
>> difficult to remove (10 minutes, max). You could remove it, drive around
>> the block a few times and see what the vibes are like. A short drive
>> isn't going to kill it -- if the vibes are bad, don't go over 25. I hear
>> that's the "magic number" where damage starts to occur...
>>
>> Eric
>> "JimG" <JimG@nospam.com> wrote in message
>> news:lRqgd.1004$oa5.544@news02.roc.ny...
>>
>>>My question was "Did you remove your t-case lowering kit after the SYE?"
>>>
>>>"Eric" wrote in message ...
>>>
>>>>Of course not! Why install an SYE and not remove the t-case kit?!?
>>>
>>>(contradiction)
>>>
>>>After re-reading your original post ("put the drivetrain back where it
>>>should have been..."), I take it that you removed the t-case lowering
>>>kit.
>>>
>>>
>>>>Should've measured it without the lowering kit on...
>>>
>>>The Jeep had all that on (lift, t-case kit, SYE, CV drive shaft) when I
>>>bought it. My rear drive shaft is practically a straight line. Looks to
>>>me as if the t-case kit is not necessary.
>>>
>>>JimG
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> __________________________________________________ _________
> tw
>
> 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
> 01 XJ Sport
>
> There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
> -- Dave Barry
>
> Pronunciation: 'jEp
> Function: noun
> Date: 1940
>
> Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
> A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
> 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
> World War II.
>
> (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
> __________________________________________________ _________
>