Jerry McG

Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.

TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
a custom shaft.

"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:41804537.E127AC15@***.net...
> Hi Jay,
> Yes, correcting the caster would put a terrible angle on your pinion
> U-joint.
> The noise you're hearing isn't the tire rubbing the strut at full
> turn, is it? Like the stop adjustment may help:
> http://www.imajeep.com/Steering_Stop...ering_stop.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> JVC wrote:
>>
>> Yeah, after doing a little research I'm not so worried about the caster.
>>
>> I checked, and retourqued both track bars and the noise is still there.
>> I managed to figure out that it only happens when making a sharp right
>> turn and hitting a bump, or rut with the front right tire. For example,
>> making a right into the driveway at my post office this afternoon.
>> Sounds really bad, but I can't find anything that's loose or rubbing.
>>
>> So far as the centering the axle and stuff, I had it aligned by a shop.
>>
>> Jay

Jerry McG

Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.

TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
a custom shaft.

"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:41804537.E127AC15@***.net...
> Hi Jay,
> Yes, correcting the caster would put a terrible angle on your pinion
> U-joint.
> The noise you're hearing isn't the tire rubbing the strut at full
> turn, is it? Like the stop adjustment may help:
> http://www.imajeep.com/Steering_Stop...ering_stop.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> JVC wrote:
>>
>> Yeah, after doing a little research I'm not so worried about the caster.
>>
>> I checked, and retourqued both track bars and the noise is still there.
>> I managed to figure out that it only happens when making a sharp right
>> turn and hitting a bump, or rut with the front right tire. For example,
>> making a right into the driveway at my post office this afternoon.
>> Sounds really bad, but I can't find anything that's loose or rubbing.
>>
>> So far as the centering the axle and stuff, I had it aligned by a shop.
>>
>> Jay

Jerry McG

Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.

TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
a custom shaft.

"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:41804537.E127AC15@***.net...
> Hi Jay,
> Yes, correcting the caster would put a terrible angle on your pinion
> U-joint.
> The noise you're hearing isn't the tire rubbing the strut at full
> turn, is it? Like the stop adjustment may help:
> http://www.imajeep.com/Steering_Stop...ering_stop.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> JVC wrote:
>>
>> Yeah, after doing a little research I'm not so worried about the caster.
>>
>> I checked, and retourqued both track bars and the noise is still there.
>> I managed to figure out that it only happens when making a sharp right
>> turn and hitting a bump, or rut with the front right tire. For example,
>> making a right into the driveway at my post office this afternoon.
>> Sounds really bad, but I can't find anything that's loose or rubbing.
>>
>> So far as the centering the axle and stuff, I had it aligned by a shop.
>>
>> Jay

Eric

Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever? If
so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I know
mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder to get
into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the shifter
(all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge. That'll allow
the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just get an SYE kit
and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.

Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed
the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to the
metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot flapped
around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it should have
been...

Eric
99 TJ SE
"JVC" <shady360@NOSPAMoptonline.net> wrote in message
news:%2Qfd.2445$803.705@trndny04...
>I installed my Black Diamond 3 in. suspension lift. Now I have some
>questions:
>
> 1. I took it for alignment per the warranty/instructions. STS told me they
> could not get the caster adjusted correctly because the lower control
> arms/trailing links were not long enough. The left caster is currently 4.7
> degrees and the right caster is 5.0 degrees. Based on the measurements on
> their machine the axle needs to go forward, and that's not possible with
> the OEM lower links. Anyone else with this problem? Suggestions?
>
> 2. Second and fourth gears, and reverse are giving me a hard time. I think
> the problem is primarily the boot interfering with the gear shifter. The
> mech at STS said I could get something to correct the shift linkage.
> Anyone know what or where to get it?
>
> 3. I've only driven it a few miles since the lift was done. Twice when
> pulling into driveways I've heard a noise that sounds like something is
> hitting the OEM skid plate. Obviously that is not happening, but that's
> what it sounds like. Thoughts, suggestions, similar problems?
>
> 4. When driving down the street at low speeds the stearing wheel is
> pulsing left and right. No worse during acceleration or braking, same all
> around. Thoughts, suggestions?
>
> TIA for you help everyone.
>
> Jay
>

Eric

Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever? If
so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I know
mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder to get
into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the shifter
(all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge. That'll allow
the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just get an SYE kit
and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.

Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed
the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to the
metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot flapped
around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it should have
been...

Eric
99 TJ SE
"JVC" <shady360@NOSPAMoptonline.net> wrote in message
news:%2Qfd.2445$803.705@trndny04...
>I installed my Black Diamond 3 in. suspension lift. Now I have some
>questions:
>
> 1. I took it for alignment per the warranty/instructions. STS told me they
> could not get the caster adjusted correctly because the lower control
> arms/trailing links were not long enough. The left caster is currently 4.7
> degrees and the right caster is 5.0 degrees. Based on the measurements on
> their machine the axle needs to go forward, and that's not possible with
> the OEM lower links. Anyone else with this problem? Suggestions?
>
> 2. Second and fourth gears, and reverse are giving me a hard time. I think
> the problem is primarily the boot interfering with the gear shifter. The
> mech at STS said I could get something to correct the shift linkage.
> Anyone know what or where to get it?
>
> 3. I've only driven it a few miles since the lift was done. Twice when
> pulling into driveways I've heard a noise that sounds like something is
> hitting the OEM skid plate. Obviously that is not happening, but that's
> what it sounds like. Thoughts, suggestions, similar problems?
>
> 4. When driving down the street at low speeds the stearing wheel is
> pulsing left and right. No worse during acceleration or braking, same all
> around. Thoughts, suggestions?
>
> TIA for you help everyone.
>
> Jay
>

Eric

Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever? If
so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I know
mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder to get
into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the shifter
(all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge. That'll allow
the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just get an SYE kit
and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.

Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed
the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to the
metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot flapped
around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it should have
been...

Eric
99 TJ SE
"JVC" <shady360@NOSPAMoptonline.net> wrote in message
news:%2Qfd.2445$803.705@trndny04...
>I installed my Black Diamond 3 in. suspension lift. Now I have some
>questions:
>
> 1. I took it for alignment per the warranty/instructions. STS told me they
> could not get the caster adjusted correctly because the lower control
> arms/trailing links were not long enough. The left caster is currently 4.7
> degrees and the right caster is 5.0 degrees. Based on the measurements on
> their machine the axle needs to go forward, and that's not possible with
> the OEM lower links. Anyone else with this problem? Suggestions?
>
> 2. Second and fourth gears, and reverse are giving me a hard time. I think
> the problem is primarily the boot interfering with the gear shifter. The
> mech at STS said I could get something to correct the shift linkage.
> Anyone know what or where to get it?
>
> 3. I've only driven it a few miles since the lift was done. Twice when
> pulling into driveways I've heard a noise that sounds like something is
> hitting the OEM skid plate. Obviously that is not happening, but that's
> what it sounds like. Thoughts, suggestions, similar problems?
>
> 4. When driving down the street at low speeds the stearing wheel is
> pulsing left and right. No worse during acceleration or braking, same all
> around. Thoughts, suggestions?
>
> TIA for you help everyone.
>
> Jay
>

Tookie

On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 16:30:51 GMT, JVC <shady360@NOSPAMoptonline.net>
wrote:


>2. Second and fourth gears, and reverse are giving me a hard time. I
>think the problem is primarily the boot interfering with the gear
>shifter. The mech at STS said I could get something to correct the shift
>linkage. Anyone know what or where to get it?


On my YJ, I had same problem - I removed the boot, marked where
shifter was hitting body, then removed the shifter and used a torch to
heat it and bend it forward a little so it wouldn't hit - took a
couple of tries to get it where I wanted it, but pretty easy overall.

Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
88YJ, 4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
PosiLock, 4.10s

Tookie

On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 16:30:51 GMT, JVC <shady360@NOSPAMoptonline.net>
wrote:


>2. Second and fourth gears, and reverse are giving me a hard time. I
>think the problem is primarily the boot interfering with the gear
>shifter. The mech at STS said I could get something to correct the shift
>linkage. Anyone know what or where to get it?


On my YJ, I had same problem - I removed the boot, marked where
shifter was hitting body, then removed the shifter and used a torch to
heat it and bend it forward a little so it wouldn't hit - took a
couple of tries to get it where I wanted it, but pretty easy overall.

Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
88YJ, 4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
PosiLock, 4.10s

Tookie

On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 16:30:51 GMT, JVC <shady360@NOSPAMoptonline.net>
wrote:


>2. Second and fourth gears, and reverse are giving me a hard time. I
>think the problem is primarily the boot interfering with the gear
>shifter. The mech at STS said I could get something to correct the shift
>linkage. Anyone know what or where to get it?


On my YJ, I had same problem - I removed the boot, marked where
shifter was hitting body, then removed the shifter and used a torch to
heat it and bend it forward a little so it wouldn't hit - took a
couple of tries to get it where I wanted it, but pretty easy overall.

Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
88YJ, 4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
PosiLock, 4.10s

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Jerry,
Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
the rear driveshaft:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
> you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
>
> TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
> driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
> about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
> should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
> a custom shaft.