Re: 97 TJ 2.5L performance parts
 

The 3.73 was for improved gas mileage with the automatic. However, if you
put 4.11, 4.56 or even more reduction in it, you will probably get better
gas mileage and certainly better performance. This is because the "2.5L
Power Tech I-4 Engine" actually likes RPMs. Take note of your engine speed
on the tach at cruising speed, say 60 or 65 depending on personal style and
road conditions. You can afford to have that change to 3,000 rpm and keep
or even improve your current fuel economy. If you go over 3,000 you will
begin to lose.

For the math, say you are thinking of going to 4.56 axles and you are
currently turning 2,200 rpm at 60, which you find a comfortable speed. This
is just a guess. Your new engine speed at 60 after the axle change is going
to be 2,200 x (4.56/3.73) or 2,670 rpm, not too shabby. You won't be
passing that many people, but it should feel like a performance increase.
If your lock-up torque converter is actually working, then you should be
able to rely on this calculation too, with no torque converter slippage at
highway speeds. An axle ratio change is pretty drastic in terms of expense,
but this calculation can show you what to expect. If you elect to change
the tire size, you multiply by the old tire size, and divide by the new tire
size, to get your new engine speed at a corresponding road speed. Don't
forget to have your speedometer adjusted if you try any of these tricks.

Earle

<hammertc2000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1172631630.588048.251420@j27g2000cwj.googlegr oups.com...
> On Feb 27, 6:58 pm, hammertc2...@yahoo.com wrote:
> > On Feb 27, 6:33 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
'97.
> >
> > > ??? This is backwards from pretty much every other year then.
> >
> > > Scott in Baltimore wrote:
> > > >> The 3.73 gears are to make up for the torque converter slippage, I
think.
> > > >> The electric fan in mine "never" comes on while the vehicle is
> > > >> moving. Even
> > > >> in city driving or off road, 5 mph is enough to cool the engine.
That is
> > > >> why you get an electric fan. Of course, it is all wasted if you
don't
> > > >> set
> > > >> the thermostatic fan control properly. You can't blame the
> > > >> manufacturer for
> > > >> that. They do include proper instructions.
> >
> > > >> Earle
> >
> > > > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
'97.
> >
> > I requested a build sheet from DC which may answer the "as build"
> > question.
> > I wonder if back in '97 era someone ordered a vehicle they had an
> > option to pick certain gearing via a 'package group' or something(?)
> >
> > I just can't see someone spending $400 to $1000 to regear from 4.10 to
> > 3.73. Maybe they had to change both axles for some reason.
>
> Just checked and I received the build sheet. Looks like I have the
> stock gearing of 3.73.
> Here's a portion cut-n-paste from the build sheet:
> <snip>
> DGA - All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
> DGDS - 3-Spd. Automatic 30RH Transmission
> DHAP - Lock-Up Torque Converter
> DHNS - Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
> DJJS - Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
> DMEP - 3.73 Axle Ratio
> DRJS - Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
> EAAC - All Engines
> EPE - 2.5L Power Tech I-4 Engine
> <end snip>
>
> Also, evidently it had floor mats too. Who knew.:)
> TJ
>

Re: 97 TJ 2.5L performance parts
 

The 3.73 was for improved gas mileage with the automatic. However, if you
put 4.11, 4.56 or even more reduction in it, you will probably get better
gas mileage and certainly better performance. This is because the "2.5L
Power Tech I-4 Engine" actually likes RPMs. Take note of your engine speed
on the tach at cruising speed, say 60 or 65 depending on personal style and
road conditions. You can afford to have that change to 3,000 rpm and keep
or even improve your current fuel economy. If you go over 3,000 you will
begin to lose.

For the math, say you are thinking of going to 4.56 axles and you are
currently turning 2,200 rpm at 60, which you find a comfortable speed. This
is just a guess. Your new engine speed at 60 after the axle change is going
to be 2,200 x (4.56/3.73) or 2,670 rpm, not too shabby. You won't be
passing that many people, but it should feel like a performance increase.
If your lock-up torque converter is actually working, then you should be
able to rely on this calculation too, with no torque converter slippage at
highway speeds. An axle ratio change is pretty drastic in terms of expense,
but this calculation can show you what to expect. If you elect to change
the tire size, you multiply by the old tire size, and divide by the new tire
size, to get your new engine speed at a corresponding road speed. Don't
forget to have your speedometer adjusted if you try any of these tricks.

Earle

<hammertc2000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1172631630.588048.251420@j27g2000cwj.googlegr oups.com...
> On Feb 27, 6:58 pm, hammertc2...@yahoo.com wrote:
> > On Feb 27, 6:33 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
'97.
> >
> > > ??? This is backwards from pretty much every other year then.
> >
> > > Scott in Baltimore wrote:
> > > >> The 3.73 gears are to make up for the torque converter slippage, I
think.
> > > >> The electric fan in mine "never" comes on while the vehicle is
> > > >> moving. Even
> > > >> in city driving or off road, 5 mph is enough to cool the engine.
That is
> > > >> why you get an electric fan. Of course, it is all wasted if you
don't
> > > >> set
> > > >> the thermostatic fan control properly. You can't blame the
> > > >> manufacturer for
> > > >> that. They do include proper instructions.
> >
> > > >> Earle
> >
> > > > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
'97.
> >
> > I requested a build sheet from DC which may answer the "as build"
> > question.
> > I wonder if back in '97 era someone ordered a vehicle they had an
> > option to pick certain gearing via a 'package group' or something(?)
> >
> > I just can't see someone spending $400 to $1000 to regear from 4.10 to
> > 3.73. Maybe they had to change both axles for some reason.
>
> Just checked and I received the build sheet. Looks like I have the
> stock gearing of 3.73.
> Here's a portion cut-n-paste from the build sheet:
> <snip>
> DGA - All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
> DGDS - 3-Spd. Automatic 30RH Transmission
> DHAP - Lock-Up Torque Converter
> DHNS - Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
> DJJS - Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
> DMEP - 3.73 Axle Ratio
> DRJS - Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
> EAAC - All Engines
> EPE - 2.5L Power Tech I-4 Engine
> <end snip>
>
> Also, evidently it had floor mats too. Who knew.:)
> TJ
>

Re: 97 TJ 2.5L performance parts
 

The 3.73 was for improved gas mileage with the automatic. However, if you
put 4.11, 4.56 or even more reduction in it, you will probably get better
gas mileage and certainly better performance. This is because the "2.5L
Power Tech I-4 Engine" actually likes RPMs. Take note of your engine speed
on the tach at cruising speed, say 60 or 65 depending on personal style and
road conditions. You can afford to have that change to 3,000 rpm and keep
or even improve your current fuel economy. If you go over 3,000 you will
begin to lose.

For the math, say you are thinking of going to 4.56 axles and you are
currently turning 2,200 rpm at 60, which you find a comfortable speed. This
is just a guess. Your new engine speed at 60 after the axle change is going
to be 2,200 x (4.56/3.73) or 2,670 rpm, not too shabby. You won't be
passing that many people, but it should feel like a performance increase.
If your lock-up torque converter is actually working, then you should be
able to rely on this calculation too, with no torque converter slippage at
highway speeds. An axle ratio change is pretty drastic in terms of expense,
but this calculation can show you what to expect. If you elect to change
the tire size, you multiply by the old tire size, and divide by the new tire
size, to get your new engine speed at a corresponding road speed. Don't
forget to have your speedometer adjusted if you try any of these tricks.

Earle

<hammertc2000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1172631630.588048.251420@j27g2000cwj.googlegr oups.com...
> On Feb 27, 6:58 pm, hammertc2...@yahoo.com wrote:
> > On Feb 27, 6:33 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
'97.
> >
> > > ??? This is backwards from pretty much every other year then.
> >
> > > Scott in Baltimore wrote:
> > > >> The 3.73 gears are to make up for the torque converter slippage, I
think.
> > > >> The electric fan in mine "never" comes on while the vehicle is
> > > >> moving. Even
> > > >> in city driving or off road, 5 mph is enough to cool the engine.
That is
> > > >> why you get an electric fan. Of course, it is all wasted if you
don't
> > > >> set
> > > >> the thermostatic fan control properly. You can't blame the
> > > >> manufacturer for
> > > >> that. They do include proper instructions.
> >
> > > >> Earle
> >
> > > > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
'97.
> >
> > I requested a build sheet from DC which may answer the "as build"
> > question.
> > I wonder if back in '97 era someone ordered a vehicle they had an
> > option to pick certain gearing via a 'package group' or something(?)
> >
> > I just can't see someone spending $400 to $1000 to regear from 4.10 to
> > 3.73. Maybe they had to change both axles for some reason.
>
> Just checked and I received the build sheet. Looks like I have the
> stock gearing of 3.73.
> Here's a portion cut-n-paste from the build sheet:
> <snip>
> DGA - All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
> DGDS - 3-Spd. Automatic 30RH Transmission
> DHAP - Lock-Up Torque Converter
> DHNS - Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
> DJJS - Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
> DMEP - 3.73 Axle Ratio
> DRJS - Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
> EAAC - All Engines
> EPE - 2.5L Power Tech I-4 Engine
> <end snip>
>
> Also, evidently it had floor mats too. Who knew.:)
> TJ
>

Re: 97 TJ 2.5L performance parts
 

On Feb 27, 11:08 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> The 3.73 was for improved gas mileage with the automatic. However, if you
> put 4.11, 4.56 or even more reduction in it, you will probably get better
> gas mileage and certainly betterperformance. This is because the "2.5L
> Power Tech I-4 Engine" actually likes RPMs. Take note of your engine speed
> on the tach at cruising speed, say 60 or 65 depending on personal style and
> road conditions. You can afford to have that change to 3,000 rpm and keep
> or even improve your current fuel economy. If you go over 3,000 you will
> begin to lose.
>
> For the math, say you are thinking of going to 4.56 axles and you are
> currently turning 2,200 rpm at 60, which you find a comfortable speed. This
> is just a guess. Your new engine speed at 60 after the axle change is going
> to be 2,200 x (4.56/3.73) or 2,670 rpm, not too shabby. You won't be
> passing that many people, but it should feel like aperformanceincrease.
> If your lock-up torque converter is actually working, then you should be
> able to rely on this calculation too, with no torque converter slippage at
> highway speeds. An axle ratio change is pretty drastic in terms of expense,
> but this calculation can show you what to expect. If you elect to change
> the tire size, you multiply by the old tire size, and divide by the new tire
> size, to get your new engine speed at a corresponding road speed. Don't
> forget to have your speedometer adjusted if you try any of these tricks.
>
> Earle
>
> <hammertc2...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1172631630.588048.251420@j27g2000cwj.googlegr oups.com...
>
> > On Feb 27, 6:58 pm, hammertc2...@yahoo.com wrote:
> > > On Feb 27, 6:33 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
> '97.
>
> > > > ??? This is backwards from pretty much every other year then.
>
> > > > Scott in Baltimore wrote:
> > > > >> The 3.73 gears are to make up for the torque converter slippage, I
> think.
> > > > >> The electric fan in mine "never" comes on while the vehicle is
> > > > >> moving. Even
> > > > >> in city driving or off road, 5 mph is enough to cool the engine.
> That is
> > > > >> why you get an electric fan. Of course, it is all wasted if you
> don't
> > > > >> set
> > > > >> the thermostatic fan control properly. You can't blame the
> > > > >> manufacturer for
> > > > >> that. They do include proper instructions.
>
> > > > >> Earle
>
> > > > > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
> '97.
>
> > > I requested a build sheet from DC which may answer the "as build"
> > > question.
> > > I wonder if back in '97 era someone ordered a vehicle they had an
> > > option to pick certain gearing via a 'package group' or something(?)
>
> > > I just can't see someone spending $400 to $1000 to regear from 4.10 to
> > > 3.73. Maybe they had to change both axles for some reason.
>
> > Just checked and I received the build sheet. Looks like I have the
> > stock gearing of 3.73.
> > Here's a portion cut-n-paste from the build sheet:
> > <snip>
> > DGA - All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
> > DGDS - 3-Spd. Automatic 30RH Transmission
> > DHAP - Lock-Up Torque Converter
> > DHNS - Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
> > DJJS - Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
> > DMEP - 3.73 Axle Ratio
> > DRJS - Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
> > EAAC - All Engines
> > EPE - 2.5L Power Tech I-4 Engine
> > <end snip>
>
> > Also, evidently it had floor mats too. Who knew.:)
> > TJ

Thank you Earle and others. I think I know what I need to do. At
today's gas prices any mod I do that actually increase mileage will
payback in no time. Also, if I can get even close to stock
performance by regearing it would be worth it. Even now my TJ is very
drivable around town. I foresee my offroading to be mainly limited to
the beach although no guarantees!
I will start with the 4.0 throttle body mod first (relatively cheap)
and see what happens. Then I'll add the cat-back..see what happens.
Then I will regear....see what happens.
I'll post results after each mod for reference.
I kinda like Bill ------ post regarding the V8 or vortex....I'm
considering that for when/if I blow-up the 4-banger or drive train.
Y'all been a great help.
Again, Thank you!
TJ

Re: 97 TJ 2.5L performance parts
 

On Feb 27, 11:08 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> The 3.73 was for improved gas mileage with the automatic. However, if you
> put 4.11, 4.56 or even more reduction in it, you will probably get better
> gas mileage and certainly betterperformance. This is because the "2.5L
> Power Tech I-4 Engine" actually likes RPMs. Take note of your engine speed
> on the tach at cruising speed, say 60 or 65 depending on personal style and
> road conditions. You can afford to have that change to 3,000 rpm and keep
> or even improve your current fuel economy. If you go over 3,000 you will
> begin to lose.
>
> For the math, say you are thinking of going to 4.56 axles and you are
> currently turning 2,200 rpm at 60, which you find a comfortable speed. This
> is just a guess. Your new engine speed at 60 after the axle change is going
> to be 2,200 x (4.56/3.73) or 2,670 rpm, not too shabby. You won't be
> passing that many people, but it should feel like aperformanceincrease.
> If your lock-up torque converter is actually working, then you should be
> able to rely on this calculation too, with no torque converter slippage at
> highway speeds. An axle ratio change is pretty drastic in terms of expense,
> but this calculation can show you what to expect. If you elect to change
> the tire size, you multiply by the old tire size, and divide by the new tire
> size, to get your new engine speed at a corresponding road speed. Don't
> forget to have your speedometer adjusted if you try any of these tricks.
>
> Earle
>
> <hammertc2...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1172631630.588048.251420@j27g2000cwj.googlegr oups.com...
>
> > On Feb 27, 6:58 pm, hammertc2...@yahoo.com wrote:
> > > On Feb 27, 6:33 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
> '97.
>
> > > > ??? This is backwards from pretty much every other year then.
>
> > > > Scott in Baltimore wrote:
> > > > >> The 3.73 gears are to make up for the torque converter slippage, I
> think.
> > > > >> The electric fan in mine "never" comes on while the vehicle is
> > > > >> moving. Even
> > > > >> in city driving or off road, 5 mph is enough to cool the engine.
> That is
> > > > >> why you get an electric fan. Of course, it is all wasted if you
> don't
> > > > >> set
> > > > >> the thermostatic fan control properly. You can't blame the
> > > > >> manufacturer for
> > > > >> that. They do include proper instructions.
>
> > > > >> Earle
>
> > > > > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
> '97.
>
> > > I requested a build sheet from DC which may answer the "as build"
> > > question.
> > > I wonder if back in '97 era someone ordered a vehicle they had an
> > > option to pick certain gearing via a 'package group' or something(?)
>
> > > I just can't see someone spending $400 to $1000 to regear from 4.10 to
> > > 3.73. Maybe they had to change both axles for some reason.
>
> > Just checked and I received the build sheet. Looks like I have the
> > stock gearing of 3.73.
> > Here's a portion cut-n-paste from the build sheet:
> > <snip>
> > DGA - All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
> > DGDS - 3-Spd. Automatic 30RH Transmission
> > DHAP - Lock-Up Torque Converter
> > DHNS - Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
> > DJJS - Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
> > DMEP - 3.73 Axle Ratio
> > DRJS - Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
> > EAAC - All Engines
> > EPE - 2.5L Power Tech I-4 Engine
> > <end snip>
>
> > Also, evidently it had floor mats too. Who knew.:)
> > TJ

Thank you Earle and others. I think I know what I need to do. At
today's gas prices any mod I do that actually increase mileage will
payback in no time. Also, if I can get even close to stock
performance by regearing it would be worth it. Even now my TJ is very
drivable around town. I foresee my offroading to be mainly limited to
the beach although no guarantees!
I will start with the 4.0 throttle body mod first (relatively cheap)
and see what happens. Then I'll add the cat-back..see what happens.
Then I will regear....see what happens.
I'll post results after each mod for reference.
I kinda like Bill ------ post regarding the V8 or vortex....I'm
considering that for when/if I blow-up the 4-banger or drive train.
Y'all been a great help.
Again, Thank you!
TJ

Re: 97 TJ 2.5L performance parts
 

On Feb 27, 11:08 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> The 3.73 was for improved gas mileage with the automatic. However, if you
> put 4.11, 4.56 or even more reduction in it, you will probably get better
> gas mileage and certainly betterperformance. This is because the "2.5L
> Power Tech I-4 Engine" actually likes RPMs. Take note of your engine speed
> on the tach at cruising speed, say 60 or 65 depending on personal style and
> road conditions. You can afford to have that change to 3,000 rpm and keep
> or even improve your current fuel economy. If you go over 3,000 you will
> begin to lose.
>
> For the math, say you are thinking of going to 4.56 axles and you are
> currently turning 2,200 rpm at 60, which you find a comfortable speed. This
> is just a guess. Your new engine speed at 60 after the axle change is going
> to be 2,200 x (4.56/3.73) or 2,670 rpm, not too shabby. You won't be
> passing that many people, but it should feel like aperformanceincrease.
> If your lock-up torque converter is actually working, then you should be
> able to rely on this calculation too, with no torque converter slippage at
> highway speeds. An axle ratio change is pretty drastic in terms of expense,
> but this calculation can show you what to expect. If you elect to change
> the tire size, you multiply by the old tire size, and divide by the new tire
> size, to get your new engine speed at a corresponding road speed. Don't
> forget to have your speedometer adjusted if you try any of these tricks.
>
> Earle
>
> <hammertc2...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1172631630.588048.251420@j27g2000cwj.googlegr oups.com...
>
> > On Feb 27, 6:58 pm, hammertc2...@yahoo.com wrote:
> > > On Feb 27, 6:33 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
> '97.
>
> > > > ??? This is backwards from pretty much every other year then.
>
> > > > Scott in Baltimore wrote:
> > > > >> The 3.73 gears are to make up for the torque converter slippage, I
> think.
> > > > >> The electric fan in mine "never" comes on while the vehicle is
> > > > >> moving. Even
> > > > >> in city driving or off road, 5 mph is enough to cool the engine.
> That is
> > > > >> why you get an electric fan. Of course, it is all wasted if you
> don't
> > > > >> set
> > > > >> the thermostatic fan control properly. You can't blame the
> > > > >> manufacturer for
> > > > >> that. They do include proper instructions.
>
> > > > >> Earle
>
> > > > > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
> '97.
>
> > > I requested a build sheet from DC which may answer the "as build"
> > > question.
> > > I wonder if back in '97 era someone ordered a vehicle they had an
> > > option to pick certain gearing via a 'package group' or something(?)
>
> > > I just can't see someone spending $400 to $1000 to regear from 4.10 to
> > > 3.73. Maybe they had to change both axles for some reason.
>
> > Just checked and I received the build sheet. Looks like I have the
> > stock gearing of 3.73.
> > Here's a portion cut-n-paste from the build sheet:
> > <snip>
> > DGA - All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
> > DGDS - 3-Spd. Automatic 30RH Transmission
> > DHAP - Lock-Up Torque Converter
> > DHNS - Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
> > DJJS - Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
> > DMEP - 3.73 Axle Ratio
> > DRJS - Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
> > EAAC - All Engines
> > EPE - 2.5L Power Tech I-4 Engine
> > <end snip>
>
> > Also, evidently it had floor mats too. Who knew.:)
> > TJ

Thank you Earle and others. I think I know what I need to do. At
today's gas prices any mod I do that actually increase mileage will
payback in no time. Also, if I can get even close to stock
performance by regearing it would be worth it. Even now my TJ is very
drivable around town. I foresee my offroading to be mainly limited to
the beach although no guarantees!
I will start with the 4.0 throttle body mod first (relatively cheap)
and see what happens. Then I'll add the cat-back..see what happens.
Then I will regear....see what happens.
I'll post results after each mod for reference.
I kinda like Bill ------ post regarding the V8 or vortex....I'm
considering that for when/if I blow-up the 4-banger or drive train.
Y'all been a great help.
Again, Thank you!
TJ

Re: 97 TJ 2.5L performance parts
 

hammertc2000@yahoo.com wrote:
> On Feb 27, 11:08 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
>> The 3.73 was for improved gas mileage with the automatic. However, if you
>> put 4.11, 4.56 or even more reduction in it, you will probably get better
>> gas mileage and certainly betterperformance. This is because the "2.5L
>> Power Tech I-4 Engine" actually likes RPMs. Take note of your engine speed
>> on the tach at cruising speed, say 60 or 65 depending on personal style and
>> road conditions. You can afford to have that change to 3,000 rpm and keep
>> or even improve your current fuel economy. If you go over 3,000 you will
>> begin to lose.
>>
>> For the math, say you are thinking of going to 4.56 axles and you are
>> currently turning 2,200 rpm at 60, which you find a comfortable speed. This
>> is just a guess. Your new engine speed at 60 after the axle change is going
>> to be 2,200 x (4.56/3.73) or 2,670 rpm, not too shabby. You won't be
>> passing that many people, but it should feel like aperformanceincrease.
>> If your lock-up torque converter is actually working, then you should be
>> able to rely on this calculation too, with no torque converter slippage at
>> highway speeds. An axle ratio change is pretty drastic in terms of expense,
>> but this calculation can show you what to expect. If you elect to change
>> the tire size, you multiply by the old tire size, and divide by the new tire
>> size, to get your new engine speed at a corresponding road speed. Don't
>> forget to have your speedometer adjusted if you try any of these tricks.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> <hammertc2...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1172631630.588048.251420@j27g2000cwj.googlegr oups.com...
>>
>>> On Feb 27, 6:58 pm, hammertc2...@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>> On Feb 27, 6:33 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
>> '97.
>>
>>>>> ??? This is backwards from pretty much every other year then.
>>>>> Scott in Baltimore wrote:
>>>>>>> The 3.73 gears are to make up for the torque converter slippage, I
>> think.
>>>>>>> The electric fan in mine "never" comes on while the vehicle is
>>>>>>> moving. Even
>>>>>>> in city driving or off road, 5 mph is enough to cool the engine.
>> That is
>>>>>>> why you get an electric fan. Of course, it is all wasted if you
>> don't
>>>>>>> set
>>>>>>> the thermostatic fan control properly. You can't blame the
>>>>>>> manufacturer for
>>>>>>> that. They do include proper instructions.
>>>>>>> Earle
>>>>>> You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
>> '97.
>>
>>>> I requested a build sheet from DC which may answer the "as build"
>>>> question.
>>>> I wonder if back in '97 era someone ordered a vehicle they had an
>>>> option to pick certain gearing via a 'package group' or something(?)
>>>> I just can't see someone spending $400 to $1000 to regear from 4.10 to
>>>> 3.73. Maybe they had to change both axles for some reason.
>>> Just checked and I received the build sheet. Looks like I have the
>>> stock gearing of 3.73.
>>> Here's a portion cut-n-paste from the build sheet:
>>> <snip>
>>> DGA - All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
>>> DGDS - 3-Spd. Automatic 30RH Transmission
>>> DHAP - Lock-Up Torque Converter
>>> DHNS - Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
>>> DJJS - Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
>>> DMEP - 3.73 Axle Ratio
>>> DRJS - Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
>>> EAAC - All Engines
>>> EPE - 2.5L Power Tech I-4 Engine
>>> <end snip>
>>> Also, evidently it had floor mats too. Who knew.:)
>>> TJ
>
> Thank you Earle and others. I think I know what I need to do. At
> today's gas prices any mod I do that actually increase mileage will
> payback in no time. Also, if I can get even close to stock
> performance by regearing it would be worth it. Even now my TJ is very
> drivable around town. I foresee my offroading to be mainly limited to
> the beach although no guarantees!
> I will start with the 4.0 throttle body mod first (relatively cheap)
> and see what happens. Then I'll add the cat-back..see what happens.
> Then I will regear....see what happens.
> I'll post results after each mod for reference.
> I kinda like Bill ------ post regarding the V8 or vortex....I'm
> considering that for when/if I blow-up the 4-banger or drive train.
> Y'all been a great help.
> Again, Thank you!
> TJ
>

When off roading, you have low range. You will have 'no' issues with
slow running in low range.

Mike

Re: 97 TJ 2.5L performance parts
 

hammertc2000@yahoo.com wrote:
> On Feb 27, 11:08 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
>> The 3.73 was for improved gas mileage with the automatic. However, if you
>> put 4.11, 4.56 or even more reduction in it, you will probably get better
>> gas mileage and certainly betterperformance. This is because the "2.5L
>> Power Tech I-4 Engine" actually likes RPMs. Take note of your engine speed
>> on the tach at cruising speed, say 60 or 65 depending on personal style and
>> road conditions. You can afford to have that change to 3,000 rpm and keep
>> or even improve your current fuel economy. If you go over 3,000 you will
>> begin to lose.
>>
>> For the math, say you are thinking of going to 4.56 axles and you are
>> currently turning 2,200 rpm at 60, which you find a comfortable speed. This
>> is just a guess. Your new engine speed at 60 after the axle change is going
>> to be 2,200 x (4.56/3.73) or 2,670 rpm, not too shabby. You won't be
>> passing that many people, but it should feel like aperformanceincrease.
>> If your lock-up torque converter is actually working, then you should be
>> able to rely on this calculation too, with no torque converter slippage at
>> highway speeds. An axle ratio change is pretty drastic in terms of expense,
>> but this calculation can show you what to expect. If you elect to change
>> the tire size, you multiply by the old tire size, and divide by the new tire
>> size, to get your new engine speed at a corresponding road speed. Don't
>> forget to have your speedometer adjusted if you try any of these tricks.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> <hammertc2...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1172631630.588048.251420@j27g2000cwj.googlegr oups.com...
>>
>>> On Feb 27, 6:58 pm, hammertc2...@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>> On Feb 27, 6:33 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
>> '97.
>>
>>>>> ??? This is backwards from pretty much every other year then.
>>>>> Scott in Baltimore wrote:
>>>>>>> The 3.73 gears are to make up for the torque converter slippage, I
>> think.
>>>>>>> The electric fan in mine "never" comes on while the vehicle is
>>>>>>> moving. Even
>>>>>>> in city driving or off road, 5 mph is enough to cool the engine.
>> That is
>>>>>>> why you get an electric fan. Of course, it is all wasted if you
>> don't
>>>>>>> set
>>>>>>> the thermostatic fan control properly. You can't blame the
>>>>>>> manufacturer for
>>>>>>> that. They do include proper instructions.
>>>>>>> Earle
>>>>>> You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
>> '97.
>>
>>>> I requested a build sheet from DC which may answer the "as build"
>>>> question.
>>>> I wonder if back in '97 era someone ordered a vehicle they had an
>>>> option to pick certain gearing via a 'package group' or something(?)
>>>> I just can't see someone spending $400 to $1000 to regear from 4.10 to
>>>> 3.73. Maybe they had to change both axles for some reason.
>>> Just checked and I received the build sheet. Looks like I have the
>>> stock gearing of 3.73.
>>> Here's a portion cut-n-paste from the build sheet:
>>> <snip>
>>> DGA - All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
>>> DGDS - 3-Spd. Automatic 30RH Transmission
>>> DHAP - Lock-Up Torque Converter
>>> DHNS - Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
>>> DJJS - Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
>>> DMEP - 3.73 Axle Ratio
>>> DRJS - Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
>>> EAAC - All Engines
>>> EPE - 2.5L Power Tech I-4 Engine
>>> <end snip>
>>> Also, evidently it had floor mats too. Who knew.:)
>>> TJ
>
> Thank you Earle and others. I think I know what I need to do. At
> today's gas prices any mod I do that actually increase mileage will
> payback in no time. Also, if I can get even close to stock
> performance by regearing it would be worth it. Even now my TJ is very
> drivable around town. I foresee my offroading to be mainly limited to
> the beach although no guarantees!
> I will start with the 4.0 throttle body mod first (relatively cheap)
> and see what happens. Then I'll add the cat-back..see what happens.
> Then I will regear....see what happens.
> I'll post results after each mod for reference.
> I kinda like Bill ------ post regarding the V8 or vortex....I'm
> considering that for when/if I blow-up the 4-banger or drive train.
> Y'all been a great help.
> Again, Thank you!
> TJ
>

When off roading, you have low range. You will have 'no' issues with
slow running in low range.

Mike

Re: 97 TJ 2.5L performance parts
 

hammertc2000@yahoo.com wrote:
> On Feb 27, 11:08 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
>> The 3.73 was for improved gas mileage with the automatic. However, if you
>> put 4.11, 4.56 or even more reduction in it, you will probably get better
>> gas mileage and certainly betterperformance. This is because the "2.5L
>> Power Tech I-4 Engine" actually likes RPMs. Take note of your engine speed
>> on the tach at cruising speed, say 60 or 65 depending on personal style and
>> road conditions. You can afford to have that change to 3,000 rpm and keep
>> or even improve your current fuel economy. If you go over 3,000 you will
>> begin to lose.
>>
>> For the math, say you are thinking of going to 4.56 axles and you are
>> currently turning 2,200 rpm at 60, which you find a comfortable speed. This
>> is just a guess. Your new engine speed at 60 after the axle change is going
>> to be 2,200 x (4.56/3.73) or 2,670 rpm, not too shabby. You won't be
>> passing that many people, but it should feel like aperformanceincrease.
>> If your lock-up torque converter is actually working, then you should be
>> able to rely on this calculation too, with no torque converter slippage at
>> highway speeds. An axle ratio change is pretty drastic in terms of expense,
>> but this calculation can show you what to expect. If you elect to change
>> the tire size, you multiply by the old tire size, and divide by the new tire
>> size, to get your new engine speed at a corresponding road speed. Don't
>> forget to have your speedometer adjusted if you try any of these tricks.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> <hammertc2...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1172631630.588048.251420@j27g2000cwj.googlegr oups.com...
>>
>>> On Feb 27, 6:58 pm, hammertc2...@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>> On Feb 27, 6:33 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> > You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
>> '97.
>>
>>>>> ??? This is backwards from pretty much every other year then.
>>>>> Scott in Baltimore wrote:
>>>>>>> The 3.73 gears are to make up for the torque converter slippage, I
>> think.
>>>>>>> The electric fan in mine "never" comes on while the vehicle is
>>>>>>> moving. Even
>>>>>>> in city driving or off road, 5 mph is enough to cool the engine.
>> That is
>>>>>>> why you get an electric fan. Of course, it is all wasted if you
>> don't
>>>>>>> set
>>>>>>> the thermostatic fan control properly. You can't blame the
>>>>>>> manufacturer for
>>>>>>> that. They do include proper instructions.
>>>>>>> Earle
>>>>>> You got 4.10 with an auto and 3.73 with a stick with a 4 banger in
>> '97.
>>
>>>> I requested a build sheet from DC which may answer the "as build"
>>>> question.
>>>> I wonder if back in '97 era someone ordered a vehicle they had an
>>>> option to pick certain gearing via a 'package group' or something(?)
>>>> I just can't see someone spending $400 to $1000 to regear from 4.10 to
>>>> 3.73. Maybe they had to change both axles for some reason.
>>> Just checked and I received the build sheet. Looks like I have the
>>> stock gearing of 3.73.
>>> Here's a portion cut-n-paste from the build sheet:
>>> <snip>
>>> DGA - All 3-Speed Automatic Transmissions
>>> DGDS - 3-Spd. Automatic 30RH Transmission
>>> DHAP - Lock-Up Torque Converter
>>> DHNS - Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
>>> DJJS - Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
>>> DMEP - 3.73 Axle Ratio
>>> DRJS - Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
>>> EAAC - All Engines
>>> EPE - 2.5L Power Tech I-4 Engine
>>> <end snip>
>>> Also, evidently it had floor mats too. Who knew.:)
>>> TJ
>
> Thank you Earle and others. I think I know what I need to do. At
> today's gas prices any mod I do that actually increase mileage will
> payback in no time. Also, if I can get even close to stock
> performance by regearing it would be worth it. Even now my TJ is very
> drivable around town. I foresee my offroading to be mainly limited to
> the beach although no guarantees!
> I will start with the 4.0 throttle body mod first (relatively cheap)
> and see what happens. Then I'll add the cat-back..see what happens.
> Then I will regear....see what happens.
> I'll post results after each mod for reference.
> I kinda like Bill ------ post regarding the V8 or vortex....I'm
> considering that for when/if I blow-up the 4-banger or drive train.
> Y'all been a great help.
> Again, Thank you!
> TJ
>

When off roading, you have low range. You will have 'no' issues with
slow running in low range.

Mike

Re: 97 TJ 2.5L performance parts
 

<hammertc2000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1172705919.922673.53760@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...
> On Feb 27, 11:08 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:

If I were you I would re-gear first.

>
> Thank you Earle and others. I think I know what I need to do. At
> today's gas prices any mod I do that actually increase mileage will
> payback in no time. Also, if I can get even close to stock
> performance by regearing it would be worth it. Even now my TJ is very
> drivable around town. I foresee my offroading to be mainly limited to
> the beach although no guarantees!
> I will start with the 4.0 throttle body mod first (relatively cheap)
> and see what happens. Then I'll add the cat-back..see what happens.
> Then I will regear....see what happens.
> I'll post results after each mod for reference.
> I kinda like Bill ------ post regarding the V8 or vortex....I'm
> considering that for when/if I blow-up the 4-banger or drive train.
> Y'all been a great help.
> Again, Thank you!
> TJ
>