Will Honea wrote:
>
> On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 14:11:58 UTC "ctops" <ctops@usa.com> wrote:
>
> Mike, how hard is it to get the whole mess out thru the engine bay?
> Mine looked like there wasn't enough room to clear the tc as it came
> forward, altough I didn't actually try it.
>
> --
> Will Honea

I have split them all first so I left the tranny and t-case in there and
just pulled the block. I find going through the transmission tunnel
cover is a good way to get the bell housing bolts.

If you remove the grill and front cross brace and rad the whole thing
might fit out that way, but my books don't say so, they say split them
first so....

'Maybe' one of the Jeep 'mechanics' on this group might know if the
whole works can be pulled together?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Will Honea wrote:
>
> On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 14:11:58 UTC "ctops" <ctops@usa.com> wrote:
>
> Mike, how hard is it to get the whole mess out thru the engine bay?
> Mine looked like there wasn't enough room to clear the tc as it came
> forward, altough I didn't actually try it.
>
> --
> Will Honea

I have split them all first so I left the tranny and t-case in there and
just pulled the block. I find going through the transmission tunnel
cover is a good way to get the bell housing bolts.

If you remove the grill and front cross brace and rad the whole thing
might fit out that way, but my books don't say so, they say split them
first so....

'Maybe' one of the Jeep 'mechanics' on this group might know if the
whole works can be pulled together?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Will Honea wrote:
>
> On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 14:11:58 UTC "ctops" <ctops@usa.com> wrote:
>
> Mike, how hard is it to get the whole mess out thru the engine bay?
> Mine looked like there wasn't enough room to clear the tc as it came
> forward, altough I didn't actually try it.
>
> --
> Will Honea

I have split them all first so I left the tranny and t-case in there and
just pulled the block. I find going through the transmission tunnel
cover is a good way to get the bell housing bolts.

If you remove the grill and front cross brace and rad the whole thing
might fit out that way, but my books don't say so, they say split them
first so....

'Maybe' one of the Jeep 'mechanics' on this group might know if the
whole works can be pulled together?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Mike, there is no 1/4 moon, it is one flat plate that fits right up
next to the bellhousing/enging block, note: my Jeep is 2x4 short bed, 1
drive shaft , , now that I think about it the clutch was working it
just seemed that it would not fully engage after I contaminated the
system, I did a lot of bleeding and at one point got the " rattling"
sound to stop, which makes me think that the throw-out is out , so to
be safe tell me my parts list should be , 1, buy new master install
bleed system try it , if that does it ride it, 2, if the clutch stills
acts the same go ahead and pull the trans. Question, before on another
clutch job I found that the pressure plate did not need replacing just
the "Disk" and of course the T/O bearing, that's if the P/P's surface
is not to worn or can't be resurfaced , Will mentioned getting pilot
bushing out of flywheel , can the pressure plate be resurfaced ?
according to my parts guy , the T/O bearing is part of the Slave
assembly , don't worry wont buy any parts till everything is pulled and
inspected , so what about Transmission front seal ? Should I replace?
And also is it necessary to drop the cross member? will the Trans. come
out with out dropping it? ,
Thanks guys
Curtis

 

Mike, there is no 1/4 moon, it is one flat plate that fits right up
next to the bellhousing/enging block, note: my Jeep is 2x4 short bed, 1
drive shaft , , now that I think about it the clutch was working it
just seemed that it would not fully engage after I contaminated the
system, I did a lot of bleeding and at one point got the " rattling"
sound to stop, which makes me think that the throw-out is out , so to
be safe tell me my parts list should be , 1, buy new master install
bleed system try it , if that does it ride it, 2, if the clutch stills
acts the same go ahead and pull the trans. Question, before on another
clutch job I found that the pressure plate did not need replacing just
the "Disk" and of course the T/O bearing, that's if the P/P's surface
is not to worn or can't be resurfaced , Will mentioned getting pilot
bushing out of flywheel , can the pressure plate be resurfaced ?
according to my parts guy , the T/O bearing is part of the Slave
assembly , don't worry wont buy any parts till everything is pulled and
inspected , so what about Transmission front seal ? Should I replace?
And also is it necessary to drop the cross member? will the Trans. come
out with out dropping it? ,
Thanks guys
Curtis

 

Mike, there is no 1/4 moon, it is one flat plate that fits right up
next to the bellhousing/enging block, note: my Jeep is 2x4 short bed, 1
drive shaft , , now that I think about it the clutch was working it
just seemed that it would not fully engage after I contaminated the
system, I did a lot of bleeding and at one point got the " rattling"
sound to stop, which makes me think that the throw-out is out , so to
be safe tell me my parts list should be , 1, buy new master install
bleed system try it , if that does it ride it, 2, if the clutch stills
acts the same go ahead and pull the trans. Question, before on another
clutch job I found that the pressure plate did not need replacing just
the "Disk" and of course the T/O bearing, that's if the P/P's surface
is not to worn or can't be resurfaced , Will mentioned getting pilot
bushing out of flywheel , can the pressure plate be resurfaced ?
according to my parts guy , the T/O bearing is part of the Slave
assembly , don't worry wont buy any parts till everything is pulled and
inspected , so what about Transmission front seal ? Should I replace?
And also is it necessary to drop the cross member? will the Trans. come
out with out dropping it? ,
Thanks guys
Curtis

 

What method did you use to bleed it?

You did 'not' contaminate or otherwise compromise the system with DOT 3,
it works perfect for clutches.

Because you had it with no noise once, I suspect it can be obtained
again.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ctops wrote:
>
> Mike, there is no 1/4 moon, it is one flat plate that fits right up
> next to the bellhousing/enging block, note: my Jeep is 2x4 short bed, 1
> drive shaft , , now that I think about it the clutch was working it
> just seemed that it would not fully engage after I contaminated the
> system, I did a lot of bleeding and at one point got the " rattling"
> sound to stop, which makes me think that the throw-out is out , so to
> be safe tell me my parts list should be , 1, buy new master install
> bleed system try it , if that does it ride it, 2, if the clutch stills
> acts the same go ahead and pull the trans. Question, before on another
> clutch job I found that the pressure plate did not need replacing just
> the "Disk" and of course the T/O bearing, that's if the P/P's surface
> is not to worn or can't be resurfaced , Will mentioned getting pilot
> bushing out of flywheel , can the pressure plate be resurfaced ?
> according to my parts guy , the T/O bearing is part of the Slave
> assembly , don't worry wont buy any parts till everything is pulled and
> inspected , so what about Transmission front seal ? Should I replace?
> And also is it necessary to drop the cross member? will the Trans. come
> out with out dropping it? ,
> Thanks guys
> Curtis

 

What method did you use to bleed it?

You did 'not' contaminate or otherwise compromise the system with DOT 3,
it works perfect for clutches.

Because you had it with no noise once, I suspect it can be obtained
again.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ctops wrote:
>
> Mike, there is no 1/4 moon, it is one flat plate that fits right up
> next to the bellhousing/enging block, note: my Jeep is 2x4 short bed, 1
> drive shaft , , now that I think about it the clutch was working it
> just seemed that it would not fully engage after I contaminated the
> system, I did a lot of bleeding and at one point got the " rattling"
> sound to stop, which makes me think that the throw-out is out , so to
> be safe tell me my parts list should be , 1, buy new master install
> bleed system try it , if that does it ride it, 2, if the clutch stills
> acts the same go ahead and pull the trans. Question, before on another
> clutch job I found that the pressure plate did not need replacing just
> the "Disk" and of course the T/O bearing, that's if the P/P's surface
> is not to worn or can't be resurfaced , Will mentioned getting pilot
> bushing out of flywheel , can the pressure plate be resurfaced ?
> according to my parts guy , the T/O bearing is part of the Slave
> assembly , don't worry wont buy any parts till everything is pulled and
> inspected , so what about Transmission front seal ? Should I replace?
> And also is it necessary to drop the cross member? will the Trans. come
> out with out dropping it? ,
> Thanks guys
> Curtis

 

What method did you use to bleed it?

You did 'not' contaminate or otherwise compromise the system with DOT 3,
it works perfect for clutches.

Because you had it with no noise once, I suspect it can be obtained
again.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ctops wrote:
>
> Mike, there is no 1/4 moon, it is one flat plate that fits right up
> next to the bellhousing/enging block, note: my Jeep is 2x4 short bed, 1
> drive shaft , , now that I think about it the clutch was working it
> just seemed that it would not fully engage after I contaminated the
> system, I did a lot of bleeding and at one point got the " rattling"
> sound to stop, which makes me think that the throw-out is out , so to
> be safe tell me my parts list should be , 1, buy new master install
> bleed system try it , if that does it ride it, 2, if the clutch stills
> acts the same go ahead and pull the trans. Question, before on another
> clutch job I found that the pressure plate did not need replacing just
> the "Disk" and of course the T/O bearing, that's if the P/P's surface
> is not to worn or can't be resurfaced , Will mentioned getting pilot
> bushing out of flywheel , can the pressure plate be resurfaced ?
> according to my parts guy , the T/O bearing is part of the Slave
> assembly , don't worry wont buy any parts till everything is pulled and
> inspected , so what about Transmission front seal ? Should I replace?
> And also is it necessary to drop the cross member? will the Trans. come
> out with out dropping it? ,
> Thanks guys
> Curtis

 

Yea me to but the fluid was dirty when I changed it , I have looked at
the master the seals look good , and it looks new , the method I used
was two people similar to the brakes just one pump holding the petal
down to make sure the fluid reservoir stayed full , it's just seem like
could not get the master to fully engage the Slave , will replace the
master first I could test it but don't know how , hell I will just
start from the top and work my way down.
Curtis