1988 Jeep Comanche clutch hydraulic fluid ?
Guest
Posts: n/a
That clutch master is a whole different animal than a brake master in
that it's a really simple setup. The hole that fills the cylinder is
in the end of the plunger and pressure from pushing the plunger just
pushes a rubber plug into the hole. It will gravity fill - BTDT not
too long ago. With both the internal and external slaves I've been
able to get a good bleed just with gravity - fill the resevoir, have
someone stand there watching it to keep it full while you crawl under
and open the bleed port. The master will fill the chamber just
sitting there (unless that stinking rubber stopper is buggered). On
both versions the gravity bleed was enough to get a good prime. With
the internal slave, I had to work a littel more - the old brake master
bleed trick, but instead of holding it all the way down push the pedal
to the floor then back up about an inch before you crack the bleed
port. You can actually see the bubbles as it bleeds out the last
little bit of air with the bleed port close - air bubbles just meander
up the line to the master. Be careful how energetic you get with the
pumping - if you go wild you can break the big bubble into little
bubbles that will take a week to come out. Not as bad as pumping air
into a brake line, but trust me, it can happen ;-(
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 22:01:54 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> If the master wasn't bench bled before it was bolted to the firewall,
> you might indeed have some air in there....
>
> The pedal usually won't go in far enough to push all the air out like
> you can do with the thing in a vise.
>
> I have heard of folks taking off the pedal link and then bench bleeding
> by hand pushing the link. You would have to have the Jeep at an angle,
> because the master needs to be perfectly level to bench bleed.
>
> Mike
>
> ctops wrote:
> >
> > Yea me to but the fluid was dirty when I changed it , I have looked at
> > the master the seals look good , and it looks new , the method I used
> > was two people similar to the brakes just one pump holding the petal
> > down to make sure the fluid reservoir stayed full , it's just seem like
> > could not get the master to fully engage the Slave , will replace the
> > master first I could test it but don't know how , hell I will just
> > start from the top and work my way down.
> > Curtis
--
Will Honea
that it's a really simple setup. The hole that fills the cylinder is
in the end of the plunger and pressure from pushing the plunger just
pushes a rubber plug into the hole. It will gravity fill - BTDT not
too long ago. With both the internal and external slaves I've been
able to get a good bleed just with gravity - fill the resevoir, have
someone stand there watching it to keep it full while you crawl under
and open the bleed port. The master will fill the chamber just
sitting there (unless that stinking rubber stopper is buggered). On
both versions the gravity bleed was enough to get a good prime. With
the internal slave, I had to work a littel more - the old brake master
bleed trick, but instead of holding it all the way down push the pedal
to the floor then back up about an inch before you crack the bleed
port. You can actually see the bubbles as it bleeds out the last
little bit of air with the bleed port close - air bubbles just meander
up the line to the master. Be careful how energetic you get with the
pumping - if you go wild you can break the big bubble into little
bubbles that will take a week to come out. Not as bad as pumping air
into a brake line, but trust me, it can happen ;-(
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 22:01:54 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> If the master wasn't bench bled before it was bolted to the firewall,
> you might indeed have some air in there....
>
> The pedal usually won't go in far enough to push all the air out like
> you can do with the thing in a vise.
>
> I have heard of folks taking off the pedal link and then bench bleeding
> by hand pushing the link. You would have to have the Jeep at an angle,
> because the master needs to be perfectly level to bench bleed.
>
> Mike
>
> ctops wrote:
> >
> > Yea me to but the fluid was dirty when I changed it , I have looked at
> > the master the seals look good , and it looks new , the method I used
> > was two people similar to the brakes just one pump holding the petal
> > down to make sure the fluid reservoir stayed full , it's just seem like
> > could not get the master to fully engage the Slave , will replace the
> > master first I could test it but don't know how , hell I will just
> > start from the top and work my way down.
> > Curtis
--
Will Honea
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well guys I installed the new master and found a real good way to bleed
the system, I used I BIG 6 oz. Hypodermic Syringe from a dairy I use to
work at and used a long piece of clear aquarium hose and pumped fluid
back up till all the air was out, Slave worked fine, but still the
rattle, must be Pressure-plate and/or Disk, will have a mechanic do the
job,. Just too big to do lying on my back.
Curtis
the system, I used I BIG 6 oz. Hypodermic Syringe from a dairy I use to
work at and used a long piece of clear aquarium hose and pumped fluid
back up till all the air was out, Slave worked fine, but still the
rattle, must be Pressure-plate and/or Disk, will have a mechanic do the
job,. Just too big to do lying on my back.
Curtis
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well guys I installed the new master and found a real good way to bleed
the system, I used I BIG 6 oz. Hypodermic Syringe from a dairy I use to
work at and used a long piece of clear aquarium hose and pumped fluid
back up till all the air was out, Slave worked fine, but still the
rattle, must be Pressure-plate and/or Disk, will have a mechanic do the
job,. Just too big to do lying on my back.
Curtis
the system, I used I BIG 6 oz. Hypodermic Syringe from a dairy I use to
work at and used a long piece of clear aquarium hose and pumped fluid
back up till all the air was out, Slave worked fine, but still the
rattle, must be Pressure-plate and/or Disk, will have a mechanic do the
job,. Just too big to do lying on my back.
Curtis
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well guys I installed the new master and found a real good way to bleed
the system, I used I BIG 6 oz. Hypodermic Syringe from a dairy I use to
work at and used a long piece of clear aquarium hose and pumped fluid
back up till all the air was out, Slave worked fine, but still the
rattle, must be Pressure-plate and/or Disk, will have a mechanic do the
job,. Just too big to do lying on my back.
Curtis
the system, I used I BIG 6 oz. Hypodermic Syringe from a dairy I use to
work at and used a long piece of clear aquarium hose and pumped fluid
back up till all the air was out, Slave worked fine, but still the
rattle, must be Pressure-plate and/or Disk, will have a mechanic do the
job,. Just too big to do lying on my back.
Curtis
Guest
Posts: n/a
Man it would have to be some kind of wicked rattle to get me to go in
after it on an 88. I would sure be tempted to live with it until I
needed clutch work.
A rattle on the throw out bearing or pilot bearing usually won't hurt
anything.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ctops wrote:
>
> Well guys I installed the new master and found a real good way to bleed
> the system, I used I BIG 6 oz. Hypodermic Syringe from a dairy I use to
> work at and used a long piece of clear aquarium hose and pumped fluid
> back up till all the air was out, Slave worked fine, but still the
> rattle, must be Pressure-plate and/or Disk, will have a mechanic do the
> job,. Just too big to do lying on my back.
>
> Curtis
after it on an 88. I would sure be tempted to live with it until I
needed clutch work.
A rattle on the throw out bearing or pilot bearing usually won't hurt
anything.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ctops wrote:
>
> Well guys I installed the new master and found a real good way to bleed
> the system, I used I BIG 6 oz. Hypodermic Syringe from a dairy I use to
> work at and used a long piece of clear aquarium hose and pumped fluid
> back up till all the air was out, Slave worked fine, but still the
> rattle, must be Pressure-plate and/or Disk, will have a mechanic do the
> job,. Just too big to do lying on my back.
>
> Curtis
Guest
Posts: n/a
Man it would have to be some kind of wicked rattle to get me to go in
after it on an 88. I would sure be tempted to live with it until I
needed clutch work.
A rattle on the throw out bearing or pilot bearing usually won't hurt
anything.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ctops wrote:
>
> Well guys I installed the new master and found a real good way to bleed
> the system, I used I BIG 6 oz. Hypodermic Syringe from a dairy I use to
> work at and used a long piece of clear aquarium hose and pumped fluid
> back up till all the air was out, Slave worked fine, but still the
> rattle, must be Pressure-plate and/or Disk, will have a mechanic do the
> job,. Just too big to do lying on my back.
>
> Curtis
after it on an 88. I would sure be tempted to live with it until I
needed clutch work.
A rattle on the throw out bearing or pilot bearing usually won't hurt
anything.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ctops wrote:
>
> Well guys I installed the new master and found a real good way to bleed
> the system, I used I BIG 6 oz. Hypodermic Syringe from a dairy I use to
> work at and used a long piece of clear aquarium hose and pumped fluid
> back up till all the air was out, Slave worked fine, but still the
> rattle, must be Pressure-plate and/or Disk, will have a mechanic do the
> job,. Just too big to do lying on my back.
>
> Curtis
Guest
Posts: n/a
Man it would have to be some kind of wicked rattle to get me to go in
after it on an 88. I would sure be tempted to live with it until I
needed clutch work.
A rattle on the throw out bearing or pilot bearing usually won't hurt
anything.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ctops wrote:
>
> Well guys I installed the new master and found a real good way to bleed
> the system, I used I BIG 6 oz. Hypodermic Syringe from a dairy I use to
> work at and used a long piece of clear aquarium hose and pumped fluid
> back up till all the air was out, Slave worked fine, but still the
> rattle, must be Pressure-plate and/or Disk, will have a mechanic do the
> job,. Just too big to do lying on my back.
>
> Curtis
after it on an 88. I would sure be tempted to live with it until I
needed clutch work.
A rattle on the throw out bearing or pilot bearing usually won't hurt
anything.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
ctops wrote:
>
> Well guys I installed the new master and found a real good way to bleed
> the system, I used I BIG 6 oz. Hypodermic Syringe from a dairy I use to
> work at and used a long piece of clear aquarium hose and pumped fluid
> back up till all the air was out, Slave worked fine, but still the
> rattle, must be Pressure-plate and/or Disk, will have a mechanic do the
> job,. Just too big to do lying on my back.
>
> Curtis
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mike it sounds like the Disk is gone of the pressure plate is coming
apart or flywheel is cracked, when you push all the down on the clutch
it's quiet, it's just when you get half way through the release that it
raises HELL, my Jeep a good truck I just found out about a buddy of my
that opened up his own garage, he will do the hold job for about
$300.00 labor.
parts and all lets see PP/Disk= $180.00 my Slave/ TO bearing = $105.00
master $60.00, will need front Trans seal $12.00, got to have my ride
go probation to do , just another bad thing about FL. everybody's in
the system, thanks for the help.
Curt
apart or flywheel is cracked, when you push all the down on the clutch
it's quiet, it's just when you get half way through the release that it
raises HELL, my Jeep a good truck I just found out about a buddy of my
that opened up his own garage, he will do the hold job for about
$300.00 labor.
parts and all lets see PP/Disk= $180.00 my Slave/ TO bearing = $105.00
master $60.00, will need front Trans seal $12.00, got to have my ride
go probation to do , just another bad thing about FL. everybody's in
the system, thanks for the help.
Curt
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mike it sounds like the Disk is gone of the pressure plate is coming
apart or flywheel is cracked, when you push all the down on the clutch
it's quiet, it's just when you get half way through the release that it
raises HELL, my Jeep a good truck I just found out about a buddy of my
that opened up his own garage, he will do the hold job for about
$300.00 labor.
parts and all lets see PP/Disk= $180.00 my Slave/ TO bearing = $105.00
master $60.00, will need front Trans seal $12.00, got to have my ride
go probation to do , just another bad thing about FL. everybody's in
the system, thanks for the help.
Curt
apart or flywheel is cracked, when you push all the down on the clutch
it's quiet, it's just when you get half way through the release that it
raises HELL, my Jeep a good truck I just found out about a buddy of my
that opened up his own garage, he will do the hold job for about
$300.00 labor.
parts and all lets see PP/Disk= $180.00 my Slave/ TO bearing = $105.00
master $60.00, will need front Trans seal $12.00, got to have my ride
go probation to do , just another bad thing about FL. everybody's in
the system, thanks for the help.
Curt
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mike it sounds like the Disk is gone of the pressure plate is coming
apart or flywheel is cracked, when you push all the down on the clutch
it's quiet, it's just when you get half way through the release that it
raises HELL, my Jeep a good truck I just found out about a buddy of my
that opened up his own garage, he will do the hold job for about
$300.00 labor.
parts and all lets see PP/Disk= $180.00 my Slave/ TO bearing = $105.00
master $60.00, will need front Trans seal $12.00, got to have my ride
go probation to do , just another bad thing about FL. everybody's in
the system, thanks for the help.
Curt
apart or flywheel is cracked, when you push all the down on the clutch
it's quiet, it's just when you get half way through the release that it
raises HELL, my Jeep a good truck I just found out about a buddy of my
that opened up his own garage, he will do the hold job for about
$300.00 labor.
parts and all lets see PP/Disk= $180.00 my Slave/ TO bearing = $105.00
master $60.00, will need front Trans seal $12.00, got to have my ride
go probation to do , just another bad thing about FL. everybody's in
the system, thanks for the help.
Curt


