Yea me to but the fluid was dirty when I changed it , I have looked at
the master the seals look good , and it looks new , the method I used
was two people similar to the brakes just one pump holding the petal
down to make sure the fluid reservoir stayed full , it's just seem like
could not get the master to fully engage the Slave , will replace the
master first I could test it but don't know how , hell I will just
start from the top and work my way down.
Curtis

 

Yea me to but the fluid was dirty when I changed it , I have looked at
the master the seals look good , and it looks new , the method I used
was two people similar to the brakes just one pump holding the petal
down to make sure the fluid reservoir stayed full , it's just seem like
could not get the master to fully engage the Slave , will replace the
master first I could test it but don't know how , hell I will just
start from the top and work my way down.
Curtis

 

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 15:00:49 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 14:11:58 UTC "ctops" <ctops@usa.com> wrote:
> >
> > Mike, how hard is it to get the whole mess out thru the engine bay?
> > Mine looked like there wasn't enough room to clear the tc as it came
> > forward, altough I didn't actually try it.
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
>
> I have split them all first so I left the tranny and t-case in there and
> just pulled the block. I find going through the transmission tunnel
> cover is a good way to get the bell housing bolts.
>
> If you remove the grill and front cross brace and rad the whole thing
> might fit out that way, but my books don't say so, they say split them
> first so....
>
> 'Maybe' one of the Jeep 'mechanics' on this group might know if the
> whole works can be pulled together?

I was just curious. I have to drop the tranny shortly to replace the
throwout in mine - hopefully it will struggle along until the days get
longer and warmer.

Hmmm... never even looked at getting to the top bell housing bolts
from the top thru the tunnel. I'll have to look at that since you
can't get a straight shot at them from below without a wobble or
universal which makes slipping and buggering the head a concern.
Still not like the old Ford where we cut holes in the firewall to get
at the rear exhaust manifold bolts, tho <g>.

--
Will Honea

 

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 15:00:49 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 14:11:58 UTC "ctops" <ctops@usa.com> wrote:
> >
> > Mike, how hard is it to get the whole mess out thru the engine bay?
> > Mine looked like there wasn't enough room to clear the tc as it came
> > forward, altough I didn't actually try it.
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
>
> I have split them all first so I left the tranny and t-case in there and
> just pulled the block. I find going through the transmission tunnel
> cover is a good way to get the bell housing bolts.
>
> If you remove the grill and front cross brace and rad the whole thing
> might fit out that way, but my books don't say so, they say split them
> first so....
>
> 'Maybe' one of the Jeep 'mechanics' on this group might know if the
> whole works can be pulled together?

I was just curious. I have to drop the tranny shortly to replace the
throwout in mine - hopefully it will struggle along until the days get
longer and warmer.

Hmmm... never even looked at getting to the top bell housing bolts
from the top thru the tunnel. I'll have to look at that since you
can't get a straight shot at them from below without a wobble or
universal which makes slipping and buggering the head a concern.
Still not like the old Ford where we cut holes in the firewall to get
at the rear exhaust manifold bolts, tho <g>.

--
Will Honea

 

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 15:00:49 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 14:11:58 UTC "ctops" <ctops@usa.com> wrote:
> >
> > Mike, how hard is it to get the whole mess out thru the engine bay?
> > Mine looked like there wasn't enough room to clear the tc as it came
> > forward, altough I didn't actually try it.
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
>
> I have split them all first so I left the tranny and t-case in there and
> just pulled the block. I find going through the transmission tunnel
> cover is a good way to get the bell housing bolts.
>
> If you remove the grill and front cross brace and rad the whole thing
> might fit out that way, but my books don't say so, they say split them
> first so....
>
> 'Maybe' one of the Jeep 'mechanics' on this group might know if the
> whole works can be pulled together?

I was just curious. I have to drop the tranny shortly to replace the
throwout in mine - hopefully it will struggle along until the days get
longer and warmer.

Hmmm... never even looked at getting to the top bell housing bolts
from the top thru the tunnel. I'll have to look at that since you
can't get a straight shot at them from below without a wobble or
universal which makes slipping and buggering the head a concern.
Still not like the old Ford where we cut holes in the firewall to get
at the rear exhaust manifold bolts, tho <g>.

--
Will Honea

 

If the master wasn't bench bled before it was bolted to the firewall,
you might indeed have some air in there....

The pedal usually won't go in far enough to push all the air out like
you can do with the thing in a vise.

I have heard of folks taking off the pedal link and then bench bleeding
by hand pushing the link. You would have to have the Jeep at an angle,
because the master needs to be perfectly level to bench bleed.

Mike

ctops wrote:
>
> Yea me to but the fluid was dirty when I changed it , I have looked at
> the master the seals look good , and it looks new , the method I used
> was two people similar to the brakes just one pump holding the petal
> down to make sure the fluid reservoir stayed full , it's just seem like
> could not get the master to fully engage the Slave , will replace the
> master first I could test it but don't know how , hell I will just
> start from the top and work my way down.
> Curtis

 

If the master wasn't bench bled before it was bolted to the firewall,
you might indeed have some air in there....

The pedal usually won't go in far enough to push all the air out like
you can do with the thing in a vise.

I have heard of folks taking off the pedal link and then bench bleeding
by hand pushing the link. You would have to have the Jeep at an angle,
because the master needs to be perfectly level to bench bleed.

Mike

ctops wrote:
>
> Yea me to but the fluid was dirty when I changed it , I have looked at
> the master the seals look good , and it looks new , the method I used
> was two people similar to the brakes just one pump holding the petal
> down to make sure the fluid reservoir stayed full , it's just seem like
> could not get the master to fully engage the Slave , will replace the
> master first I could test it but don't know how , hell I will just
> start from the top and work my way down.
> Curtis

 

If the master wasn't bench bled before it was bolted to the firewall,
you might indeed have some air in there....

The pedal usually won't go in far enough to push all the air out like
you can do with the thing in a vise.

I have heard of folks taking off the pedal link and then bench bleeding
by hand pushing the link. You would have to have the Jeep at an angle,
because the master needs to be perfectly level to bench bleed.

Mike

ctops wrote:
>
> Yea me to but the fluid was dirty when I changed it , I have looked at
> the master the seals look good , and it looks new , the method I used
> was two people similar to the brakes just one pump holding the petal
> down to make sure the fluid reservoir stayed full , it's just seem like
> could not get the master to fully engage the Slave , will replace the
> master first I could test it but don't know how , hell I will just
> start from the top and work my way down.
> Curtis

 

That clutch master is a whole different animal than a brake master in
that it's a really simple setup. The hole that fills the cylinder is
in the end of the plunger and pressure from pushing the plunger just
pushes a rubber plug into the hole. It will gravity fill - BTDT not
too long ago. With both the internal and external slaves I've been
able to get a good bleed just with gravity - fill the resevoir, have
someone stand there watching it to keep it full while you crawl under
and open the bleed port. The master will fill the chamber just
sitting there (unless that stinking rubber stopper is buggered). On
both versions the gravity bleed was enough to get a good prime. With
the internal slave, I had to work a littel more - the old brake master
bleed trick, but instead of holding it all the way down push the pedal
to the floor then back up about an inch before you crack the bleed
port. You can actually see the bubbles as it bleeds out the last
little bit of air with the bleed port close - air bubbles just meander
up the line to the master. Be careful how energetic you get with the
pumping - if you go wild you can break the big bubble into little
bubbles that will take a week to come out. Not as bad as pumping air
into a brake line, but trust me, it can happen ;-(

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 22:01:54 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> If the master wasn't bench bled before it was bolted to the firewall,
> you might indeed have some air in there....
>
> The pedal usually won't go in far enough to push all the air out like
> you can do with the thing in a vise.
>
> I have heard of folks taking off the pedal link and then bench bleeding
> by hand pushing the link. You would have to have the Jeep at an angle,
> because the master needs to be perfectly level to bench bleed.
>
> Mike
>
> ctops wrote:
> >
> > Yea me to but the fluid was dirty when I changed it , I have looked at
> > the master the seals look good , and it looks new , the method I used
> > was two people similar to the brakes just one pump holding the petal
> > down to make sure the fluid reservoir stayed full , it's just seem like
> > could not get the master to fully engage the Slave , will replace the
> > master first I could test it but don't know how , hell I will just
> > start from the top and work my way down.
> > Curtis


--
Will Honea

 

That clutch master is a whole different animal than a brake master in
that it's a really simple setup. The hole that fills the cylinder is
in the end of the plunger and pressure from pushing the plunger just
pushes a rubber plug into the hole. It will gravity fill - BTDT not
too long ago. With both the internal and external slaves I've been
able to get a good bleed just with gravity - fill the resevoir, have
someone stand there watching it to keep it full while you crawl under
and open the bleed port. The master will fill the chamber just
sitting there (unless that stinking rubber stopper is buggered). On
both versions the gravity bleed was enough to get a good prime. With
the internal slave, I had to work a littel more - the old brake master
bleed trick, but instead of holding it all the way down push the pedal
to the floor then back up about an inch before you crack the bleed
port. You can actually see the bubbles as it bleeds out the last
little bit of air with the bleed port close - air bubbles just meander
up the line to the master. Be careful how energetic you get with the
pumping - if you go wild you can break the big bubble into little
bubbles that will take a week to come out. Not as bad as pumping air
into a brake line, but trust me, it can happen ;-(

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 22:01:54 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> If the master wasn't bench bled before it was bolted to the firewall,
> you might indeed have some air in there....
>
> The pedal usually won't go in far enough to push all the air out like
> you can do with the thing in a vise.
>
> I have heard of folks taking off the pedal link and then bench bleeding
> by hand pushing the link. You would have to have the Jeep at an angle,
> because the master needs to be perfectly level to bench bleed.
>
> Mike
>
> ctops wrote:
> >
> > Yea me to but the fluid was dirty when I changed it , I have looked at
> > the master the seals look good , and it looks new , the method I used
> > was two people similar to the brakes just one pump holding the petal
> > down to make sure the fluid reservoir stayed full , it's just seem like
> > could not get the master to fully engage the Slave , will replace the
> > master first I could test it but don't know how , hell I will just
> > start from the top and work my way down.
> > Curtis


--
Will Honea