I prefer to pull the engine and work on the clutch parts from up top.

I also would be opening up the front inspection plate first to have a
look. You might just have a loose bolt on the pressure plate or
flywheel and you might be able to just tighten it from the inspection
hole.

The bottom front of the bell housing is just a tin plate that usually
unbolts so you can inspect the clutch parts.

I would not be only expecting to see a damaged or worn out throw out
bearing in there. I would be expecting to see the pressure plate
damaged instead.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ctops wrote:
>
> Actually I just found the Slave/throw out bearing which evidently comes
> together for $104.00 and a master for $60.00, I have the Pugeot 5-spd
> and I am told that it can't be rebuilt or converted to external Slave ,
> so this weekend I am going to install it , Will Honea mentioned he had
> changed over to a AX15, I am a fairly good mechanic and should have no
> problem with this procedure but if someone could give me the correct
> procedure from the Chilton or from memory and also it looks like the
> Bell housing and the Trans. comes out all together I don't have a
> Transmission stand so I will be attempting to "wrestle" it out and back
> together without damaging the new Slave, any tips would be greatly
> appreciated.
> Curtis

 

Thanks Mike but I don't think there is a front inspection plate, I will
look and see tonight, if there is I would inspect all the parts and
resurface the Pressure Plate or replace, but the way my clutch went out
right after I contaminated the system with Dot 3 and because the truck
had sit up for 2 years I bet I ruined the seals in the Slave/Master,
let you know tomorrow.
Thanks Mike 4 help
Curtis

 

Thanks Mike but I don't think there is a front inspection plate, I will
look and see tonight, if there is I would inspect all the parts and
resurface the Pressure Plate or replace, but the way my clutch went out
right after I contaminated the system with Dot 3 and because the truck
had sit up for 2 years I bet I ruined the seals in the Slave/Master,
let you know tomorrow.
Thanks Mike 4 help
Curtis

 

Thanks Mike but I don't think there is a front inspection plate, I will
look and see tonight, if there is I would inspect all the parts and
resurface the Pressure Plate or replace, but the way my clutch went out
right after I contaminated the system with Dot 3 and because the truck
had sit up for 2 years I bet I ruined the seals in the Slave/Master,
let you know tomorrow.
Thanks Mike 4 help
Curtis

 

Dot 3 will work just fine. The system isn't a high temp system.

Did the clutch quit working? I thought it just had some noise when the
pressure plate was depressed.

If you have the plate, it is like a 1/4 moon on the bottom front.

Mike

ctops wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike but I don't think there is a front inspection plate, I will
> look and see tonight, if there is I would inspect all the parts and
> resurface the Pressure Plate or replace, but the way my clutch went out
> right after I contaminated the system with Dot 3 and because the truck
> had sit up for 2 years I bet I ruined the seals in the Slave/Master,
> let you know tomorrow.
> Thanks Mike 4 help
> Curtis

 

Dot 3 will work just fine. The system isn't a high temp system.

Did the clutch quit working? I thought it just had some noise when the
pressure plate was depressed.

If you have the plate, it is like a 1/4 moon on the bottom front.

Mike

ctops wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike but I don't think there is a front inspection plate, I will
> look and see tonight, if there is I would inspect all the parts and
> resurface the Pressure Plate or replace, but the way my clutch went out
> right after I contaminated the system with Dot 3 and because the truck
> had sit up for 2 years I bet I ruined the seals in the Slave/Master,
> let you know tomorrow.
> Thanks Mike 4 help
> Curtis

 

Dot 3 will work just fine. The system isn't a high temp system.

Did the clutch quit working? I thought it just had some noise when the
pressure plate was depressed.

If you have the plate, it is like a 1/4 moon on the bottom front.

Mike

ctops wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike but I don't think there is a front inspection plate, I will
> look and see tonight, if there is I would inspect all the parts and
> resurface the Pressure Plate or replace, but the way my clutch went out
> right after I contaminated the system with Dot 3 and because the truck
> had sit up for 2 years I bet I ruined the seals in the Slave/Master,
> let you know tomorrow.
> Thanks Mike 4 help
> Curtis

 

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 14:11:58 UTC "ctops" <ctops@usa.com> wrote:

> Actually I just found the Slave/throw out bearing which evidently comes
> together for $104.00 and a master for $60.00, I have the Pugeot 5-spd
> and I am told that it can't be rebuilt or converted to external Slave ,
> so this weekend I am going to install it , Will Honea mentioned he had
> changed over to a AX15, I am a fairly good mechanic and should have no
> problem with this procedure but if someone could give me the correct
> procedure from the Chilton or from memory and also it looks like the
> Bell housing and the Trans. comes out all together I don't have a
> Transmission stand so I will be attempting to "wrestle" it out and back
> together without damaging the new Slave, any tips would be greatly
> appreciated.

The inspection plate on mine is a full plate all the way up the back
of the engine - acrually more of a dust cover - and it doesn't come
off with the tranny in place.

My Puegeot went south on me - that's why I swapped - and I did the
external slave swap since I was in there anyway. In the process of
swapping, I had to pull the tc twice since I got the wrong input shaft
the first time and the tc howled like a banshee. I also invested the
$30 or so for a tranny platform for my hydraulic floor jack to
re-install - the AX15 weighs at LOT more than the tiny little Pugeot.
I actually unbolted the tc and pulled it first, then pulled the BA
10/5, bellhousing and all. I don't have a lift or room for an engine
hoist in the garage but dropping the tranny and bellhousing (it's
aluminum) was no real problem laying on my back from underneath. I
was able to pull it back with both hands, then roll over and set it
down on the floor - probably well under 100 pounds. Once I hefted the
AX15, I definitely decided a tranny jack was in order for the
replacement.

Splitting the tc and tranny in place is not a real problem - the top
two bolts are a PITA to reach but doable. The second time around, I
used a long extension and went at them from the top side thru the
shifter hole but I'm not sure that was any easier. Pull both drive
shafts completely off - they get in the way every time you move
otherwise and you have to drop one end of each anyway. You will
definitely need a serious set of half inch sockets and extension - the
two top bolts on the bell housing are the reverse torx type and a
bitch to reach. You'll also need a long extension to get to the
exhaust bolts up by the manifold - the exhaust pipe has to come off
between the manifold and the cat as it crosses under the tranny. One
of the hardest things for me was getting the @#$% pilot bushing out of
the flywheel (as Mike said - replace it ALL while you're there). The
rest is basically grunt work. I would also suggest you unbolt the
rear tranny mount before you drop the cross member just to make sure
you don't tear the rubber - those mounts are next to impossible to
find - everybody wants to sell you the wrong one. Pull the shift
tower off the tranny and you're all set. In spite of the cost, I
would suggest replacing the line between the master and the bottom
end. It sits right next to the exhaust and is probably responsible
for at least some of your crud after sitting in tha theat for so long.
AH! and pay attention to how the tc shift linkage mounts to the hump
so that you don't waste a lot of time trying to get it back in the
right way <g>.

Mike, how hard is it to get the whole mess out thru the engine bay?
Mine looked like there wasn't enough room to clear the tc as it came
forward, altough I didn't actually try it.

--
Will Honea

 

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 14:11:58 UTC "ctops" <ctops@usa.com> wrote:

> Actually I just found the Slave/throw out bearing which evidently comes
> together for $104.00 and a master for $60.00, I have the Pugeot 5-spd
> and I am told that it can't be rebuilt or converted to external Slave ,
> so this weekend I am going to install it , Will Honea mentioned he had
> changed over to a AX15, I am a fairly good mechanic and should have no
> problem with this procedure but if someone could give me the correct
> procedure from the Chilton or from memory and also it looks like the
> Bell housing and the Trans. comes out all together I don't have a
> Transmission stand so I will be attempting to "wrestle" it out and back
> together without damaging the new Slave, any tips would be greatly
> appreciated.

The inspection plate on mine is a full plate all the way up the back
of the engine - acrually more of a dust cover - and it doesn't come
off with the tranny in place.

My Puegeot went south on me - that's why I swapped - and I did the
external slave swap since I was in there anyway. In the process of
swapping, I had to pull the tc twice since I got the wrong input shaft
the first time and the tc howled like a banshee. I also invested the
$30 or so for a tranny platform for my hydraulic floor jack to
re-install - the AX15 weighs at LOT more than the tiny little Pugeot.
I actually unbolted the tc and pulled it first, then pulled the BA
10/5, bellhousing and all. I don't have a lift or room for an engine
hoist in the garage but dropping the tranny and bellhousing (it's
aluminum) was no real problem laying on my back from underneath. I
was able to pull it back with both hands, then roll over and set it
down on the floor - probably well under 100 pounds. Once I hefted the
AX15, I definitely decided a tranny jack was in order for the
replacement.

Splitting the tc and tranny in place is not a real problem - the top
two bolts are a PITA to reach but doable. The second time around, I
used a long extension and went at them from the top side thru the
shifter hole but I'm not sure that was any easier. Pull both drive
shafts completely off - they get in the way every time you move
otherwise and you have to drop one end of each anyway. You will
definitely need a serious set of half inch sockets and extension - the
two top bolts on the bell housing are the reverse torx type and a
bitch to reach. You'll also need a long extension to get to the
exhaust bolts up by the manifold - the exhaust pipe has to come off
between the manifold and the cat as it crosses under the tranny. One
of the hardest things for me was getting the @#$% pilot bushing out of
the flywheel (as Mike said - replace it ALL while you're there). The
rest is basically grunt work. I would also suggest you unbolt the
rear tranny mount before you drop the cross member just to make sure
you don't tear the rubber - those mounts are next to impossible to
find - everybody wants to sell you the wrong one. Pull the shift
tower off the tranny and you're all set. In spite of the cost, I
would suggest replacing the line between the master and the bottom
end. It sits right next to the exhaust and is probably responsible
for at least some of your crud after sitting in tha theat for so long.
AH! and pay attention to how the tc shift linkage mounts to the hump
so that you don't waste a lot of time trying to get it back in the
right way <g>.

Mike, how hard is it to get the whole mess out thru the engine bay?
Mine looked like there wasn't enough room to clear the tc as it came
forward, altough I didn't actually try it.

--
Will Honea

 

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 14:11:58 UTC "ctops" <ctops@usa.com> wrote:

> Actually I just found the Slave/throw out bearing which evidently comes
> together for $104.00 and a master for $60.00, I have the Pugeot 5-spd
> and I am told that it can't be rebuilt or converted to external Slave ,
> so this weekend I am going to install it , Will Honea mentioned he had
> changed over to a AX15, I am a fairly good mechanic and should have no
> problem with this procedure but if someone could give me the correct
> procedure from the Chilton or from memory and also it looks like the
> Bell housing and the Trans. comes out all together I don't have a
> Transmission stand so I will be attempting to "wrestle" it out and back
> together without damaging the new Slave, any tips would be greatly
> appreciated.

The inspection plate on mine is a full plate all the way up the back
of the engine - acrually more of a dust cover - and it doesn't come
off with the tranny in place.

My Puegeot went south on me - that's why I swapped - and I did the
external slave swap since I was in there anyway. In the process of
swapping, I had to pull the tc twice since I got the wrong input shaft
the first time and the tc howled like a banshee. I also invested the
$30 or so for a tranny platform for my hydraulic floor jack to
re-install - the AX15 weighs at LOT more than the tiny little Pugeot.
I actually unbolted the tc and pulled it first, then pulled the BA
10/5, bellhousing and all. I don't have a lift or room for an engine
hoist in the garage but dropping the tranny and bellhousing (it's
aluminum) was no real problem laying on my back from underneath. I
was able to pull it back with both hands, then roll over and set it
down on the floor - probably well under 100 pounds. Once I hefted the
AX15, I definitely decided a tranny jack was in order for the
replacement.

Splitting the tc and tranny in place is not a real problem - the top
two bolts are a PITA to reach but doable. The second time around, I
used a long extension and went at them from the top side thru the
shifter hole but I'm not sure that was any easier. Pull both drive
shafts completely off - they get in the way every time you move
otherwise and you have to drop one end of each anyway. You will
definitely need a serious set of half inch sockets and extension - the
two top bolts on the bell housing are the reverse torx type and a
bitch to reach. You'll also need a long extension to get to the
exhaust bolts up by the manifold - the exhaust pipe has to come off
between the manifold and the cat as it crosses under the tranny. One
of the hardest things for me was getting the @#$% pilot bushing out of
the flywheel (as Mike said - replace it ALL while you're there). The
rest is basically grunt work. I would also suggest you unbolt the
rear tranny mount before you drop the cross member just to make sure
you don't tear the rubber - those mounts are next to impossible to
find - everybody wants to sell you the wrong one. Pull the shift
tower off the tranny and you're all set. In spite of the cost, I
would suggest replacing the line between the master and the bottom
end. It sits right next to the exhaust and is probably responsible
for at least some of your crud after sitting in tha theat for so long.
AH! and pay attention to how the tc shift linkage mounts to the hump
so that you don't waste a lot of time trying to get it back in the
right way <g>.

Mike, how hard is it to get the whole mess out thru the engine bay?
Mine looked like there wasn't enough room to clear the tc as it came
forward, altough I didn't actually try it.

--
Will Honea