Lee Ayrton

On my way home from a job I stopped to look at a Jeep parted on the side
of the road with a "For Sale" sign in the window. The sign claimed that
it was a "CJ-5" but they obviously don't know what they are talking about,
it was pretty clearly a DJ: fore-shortened hood and fenders, CJ-5 style
tub with a factory metal hard top (swinging doors, not sliding), left hand
drive, 2-piece front bench seat, 4 cyl, manual, 4WD. Old-style channel
frame (not boxed) and the windshield latches are the early over-center
type, not the 70's screw-type.

The sheet metal is in tough shape, both fenders need replacement and the
tub needs a lot of metal replacement in the usual places. The radiator is
out of the truck and the sign claims "Needs head gasket -- have spare
parts". Uh huh, that means "not running".

They're asking $1200, obviously way too high. I'm thinking more like
$400. I'm not really serious about this (I've developed a hankering for a
project Duster from the early 70s -- if I can find the garage space), but
now that my `79 -5 is done I don't have anything to tinker with, and I'm
thinking it might be nice to learn a little tin-knocking. A little DJ
might be kinda fun. Learn some sheet metal welding.

Anyone know if sheet metal is available for DJ-series Jeeps? Was the
running gear very different from standard CJs? Or is it all frustratingly
close but entirely different?

Clues, warnings and URLs gratefully accepted.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

That's a Real Civilian Jeep:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/jeeps/70cj5.html No Jeeper would buy that
steel top, though.
The over center windshield latch are stock, and as soon as we left
the road off it came: http://www.----------.com/rexBarb.jpg
The open channel frame is the strongest, that's why all commercial
trucks use them, and an added bonus is they don't hold water and rust
out, like your AMC frame will.
--
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> On my way home from a job I stopped to look at a Jeep parted on the side
> of the road with a "For Sale" sign in the window. The sign claimed that
> it was a "CJ-5" but they obviously don't know what they are talking about,
> it was pretty clearly a DJ: fore-shortened hood and fenders, CJ-5 style
> tub with a factory metal hard top (swinging doors, not sliding), left hand
> drive, 2-piece front bench seat, 4 cyl, manual, 4WD. Old-style channel
> frame (not boxed) and the windshield latches are the early over-center
> type, not the 70's screw-type.
>
> The sheet metal is in tough shape, both fenders need replacement and the
> tub needs a lot of metal replacement in the usual places. The radiator is
> out of the truck and the sign claims "Needs head gasket -- have spare
> parts". Uh huh, that means "not running".
>
> They're asking $1200, obviously way too high. I'm thinking more like
> $400. I'm not really serious about this (I've developed a hankering for a
> project Duster from the early 70s -- if I can find the garage space), but
> now that my `79 -5 is done I don't have anything to tinker with, and I'm
> thinking it might be nice to learn a little tin-knocking. A little DJ
> might be kinda fun. Learn some sheet metal welding.
>
> Anyone know if sheet metal is available for DJ-series Jeeps? Was the
> running gear very different from standard CJs? Or is it all frustratingly
> close but entirely different?
>
> Clues, warnings and URLs gratefully accepted.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

That's a Real Civilian Jeep:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/jeeps/70cj5.html No Jeeper would buy that
steel top, though.
The over center windshield latch are stock, and as soon as we left
the road off it came: http://www.----------.com/rexBarb.jpg
The open channel frame is the strongest, that's why all commercial
trucks use them, and an added bonus is they don't hold water and rust
out, like your AMC frame will.
--
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> On my way home from a job I stopped to look at a Jeep parted on the side
> of the road with a "For Sale" sign in the window. The sign claimed that
> it was a "CJ-5" but they obviously don't know what they are talking about,
> it was pretty clearly a DJ: fore-shortened hood and fenders, CJ-5 style
> tub with a factory metal hard top (swinging doors, not sliding), left hand
> drive, 2-piece front bench seat, 4 cyl, manual, 4WD. Old-style channel
> frame (not boxed) and the windshield latches are the early over-center
> type, not the 70's screw-type.
>
> The sheet metal is in tough shape, both fenders need replacement and the
> tub needs a lot of metal replacement in the usual places. The radiator is
> out of the truck and the sign claims "Needs head gasket -- have spare
> parts". Uh huh, that means "not running".
>
> They're asking $1200, obviously way too high. I'm thinking more like
> $400. I'm not really serious about this (I've developed a hankering for a
> project Duster from the early 70s -- if I can find the garage space), but
> now that my `79 -5 is done I don't have anything to tinker with, and I'm
> thinking it might be nice to learn a little tin-knocking. A little DJ
> might be kinda fun. Learn some sheet metal welding.
>
> Anyone know if sheet metal is available for DJ-series Jeeps? Was the
> running gear very different from standard CJs? Or is it all frustratingly
> close but entirely different?
>
> Clues, warnings and URLs gratefully accepted.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

That's a Real Civilian Jeep:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/jeeps/70cj5.html No Jeeper would buy that
steel top, though.
The over center windshield latch are stock, and as soon as we left
the road off it came: http://www.----------.com/rexBarb.jpg
The open channel frame is the strongest, that's why all commercial
trucks use them, and an added bonus is they don't hold water and rust
out, like your AMC frame will.
--
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> On my way home from a job I stopped to look at a Jeep parted on the side
> of the road with a "For Sale" sign in the window. The sign claimed that
> it was a "CJ-5" but they obviously don't know what they are talking about,
> it was pretty clearly a DJ: fore-shortened hood and fenders, CJ-5 style
> tub with a factory metal hard top (swinging doors, not sliding), left hand
> drive, 2-piece front bench seat, 4 cyl, manual, 4WD. Old-style channel
> frame (not boxed) and the windshield latches are the early over-center
> type, not the 70's screw-type.
>
> The sheet metal is in tough shape, both fenders need replacement and the
> tub needs a lot of metal replacement in the usual places. The radiator is
> out of the truck and the sign claims "Needs head gasket -- have spare
> parts". Uh huh, that means "not running".
>
> They're asking $1200, obviously way too high. I'm thinking more like
> $400. I'm not really serious about this (I've developed a hankering for a
> project Duster from the early 70s -- if I can find the garage space), but
> now that my `79 -5 is done I don't have anything to tinker with, and I'm
> thinking it might be nice to learn a little tin-knocking. A little DJ
> might be kinda fun. Learn some sheet metal welding.
>
> Anyone know if sheet metal is available for DJ-series Jeeps? Was the
> running gear very different from standard CJs? Or is it all frustratingly
> close but entirely different?
>
> Clues, warnings and URLs gratefully accepted.

Howard Eisenhauer

DJs were the 2WD versions of the earlier CJs. If it does indeed have
a transfer case as you seem to indicate it probably is a CJ. The
60/40 bench seat was an option, fairly rare except for the Tuxedo Park
model. Likewise the steel hardtops were a dealer installed option,
******/Kaiser/AMC never actually built metal tops. They just bolted
on, not actually part of the body as on sliding door postal jeeps
(that arn't technically DJs as they were built by someone other than
******/AMC- IIRC Rockwell)

To pin down exactly what you're looking at try looking through the
spotters guides at the Early CJ5 site:

http://www.earlycj5.com/modules.php?...rtid=32&page=1

All the body parts (& complete bodies) are readily available, priced
all the way from "It Keeps the Wind Out" to "Full Resto Factory
Correct" ,J.C. Whitney is about the cheapest. A quick web search will
bring up the pricier options. For some weird reason the "proper"
fenders (short without the side marker indents) are about $300, the
slightly later style (short with the indents) are about 1/3 of that.
AFAIK they're otherwise identical.

Check the frame around the spring hangers for cracks, especially if
the serial # indicates it's a '57 or later - check here:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/history/serial.html

As with the body all the mechancals are still available, usually at
you local UAP. All the early CJs were pretty much the same
mechanically so there's more good info on what to look for to be found
here:

http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/

http://www.thecj2apage.com/


Be Warned- if you want to build it for "Off Road" plan on a Saginaw
steering conversion. If you're thinking resto plan on a major
steering overhaul as the Ross setup needs EVERYTHING to be tight to
keep the gray hairs away ;).

Even for full on restos 11" brake/ dual MC upgrades are genearlly
considered to be A Good Idea.

$1200 does sound way outta line, basically you're buying a frame &
some axles, & you're not sure if they're any good :(. Still, if its a
project you're looking for these things ain't getting any commoner,
especially in stock form.

Good luck, let us know if you go for it-

Howard

http://users.eastlink.ca/~howarde/Tonka.html


On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:32:42 -0400, Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com>
wrote:

>
>
>On my way home from a job I stopped to look at a Jeep parted on the side
>of the road with a "For Sale" sign in the window. The sign claimed that
>it was a "CJ-5" but they obviously don't know what they are talking about,
>it was pretty clearly a DJ: fore-shortened hood and fenders, CJ-5 style
>tub with a factory metal hard top (swinging doors, not sliding), left hand
>drive, 2-piece front bench seat, 4 cyl, manual, 4WD. Old-style channel
>frame (not boxed) and the windshield latches are the early over-center
>type, not the 70's screw-type.
>
>The sheet metal is in tough shape, both fenders need replacement and the
>tub needs a lot of metal replacement in the usual places. The radiator is
>out of the truck and the sign claims "Needs head gasket -- have spare
>parts". Uh huh, that means "not running".
>
>They're asking $1200, obviously way too high. I'm thinking more like
>$400. I'm not really serious about this (I've developed a hankering for a
>project Duster from the early 70s -- if I can find the garage space), but
>now that my `79 -5 is done I don't have anything to tinker with, and I'm
>thinking it might be nice to learn a little tin-knocking. A little DJ
>might be kinda fun. Learn some sheet metal welding.
>
>Anyone know if sheet metal is available for DJ-series Jeeps? Was the
>running gear very different from standard CJs? Or is it all frustratingly
>close but entirely different?
>
>Clues, warnings and URLs gratefully accepted.
>
>
>

Howard Eisenhauer

DJs were the 2WD versions of the earlier CJs. If it does indeed have
a transfer case as you seem to indicate it probably is a CJ. The
60/40 bench seat was an option, fairly rare except for the Tuxedo Park
model. Likewise the steel hardtops were a dealer installed option,
******/Kaiser/AMC never actually built metal tops. They just bolted
on, not actually part of the body as on sliding door postal jeeps
(that arn't technically DJs as they were built by someone other than
******/AMC- IIRC Rockwell)

To pin down exactly what you're looking at try looking through the
spotters guides at the Early CJ5 site:

http://www.earlycj5.com/modules.php?...rtid=32&page=1

All the body parts (& complete bodies) are readily available, priced
all the way from "It Keeps the Wind Out" to "Full Resto Factory
Correct" ,J.C. Whitney is about the cheapest. A quick web search will
bring up the pricier options. For some weird reason the "proper"
fenders (short without the side marker indents) are about $300, the
slightly later style (short with the indents) are about 1/3 of that.
AFAIK they're otherwise identical.

Check the frame around the spring hangers for cracks, especially if
the serial # indicates it's a '57 or later - check here:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/history/serial.html

As with the body all the mechancals are still available, usually at
you local UAP. All the early CJs were pretty much the same
mechanically so there's more good info on what to look for to be found
here:

http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/

http://www.thecj2apage.com/


Be Warned- if you want to build it for "Off Road" plan on a Saginaw
steering conversion. If you're thinking resto plan on a major
steering overhaul as the Ross setup needs EVERYTHING to be tight to
keep the gray hairs away ;).

Even for full on restos 11" brake/ dual MC upgrades are genearlly
considered to be A Good Idea.

$1200 does sound way outta line, basically you're buying a frame &
some axles, & you're not sure if they're any good :(. Still, if its a
project you're looking for these things ain't getting any commoner,
especially in stock form.

Good luck, let us know if you go for it-

Howard

http://users.eastlink.ca/~howarde/Tonka.html


On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:32:42 -0400, Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com>
wrote:

>
>
>On my way home from a job I stopped to look at a Jeep parted on the side
>of the road with a "For Sale" sign in the window. The sign claimed that
>it was a "CJ-5" but they obviously don't know what they are talking about,
>it was pretty clearly a DJ: fore-shortened hood and fenders, CJ-5 style
>tub with a factory metal hard top (swinging doors, not sliding), left hand
>drive, 2-piece front bench seat, 4 cyl, manual, 4WD. Old-style channel
>frame (not boxed) and the windshield latches are the early over-center
>type, not the 70's screw-type.
>
>The sheet metal is in tough shape, both fenders need replacement and the
>tub needs a lot of metal replacement in the usual places. The radiator is
>out of the truck and the sign claims "Needs head gasket -- have spare
>parts". Uh huh, that means "not running".
>
>They're asking $1200, obviously way too high. I'm thinking more like
>$400. I'm not really serious about this (I've developed a hankering for a
>project Duster from the early 70s -- if I can find the garage space), but
>now that my `79 -5 is done I don't have anything to tinker with, and I'm
>thinking it might be nice to learn a little tin-knocking. A little DJ
>might be kinda fun. Learn some sheet metal welding.
>
>Anyone know if sheet metal is available for DJ-series Jeeps? Was the
>running gear very different from standard CJs? Or is it all frustratingly
>close but entirely different?
>
>Clues, warnings and URLs gratefully accepted.
>
>
>

Howard Eisenhauer

DJs were the 2WD versions of the earlier CJs. If it does indeed have
a transfer case as you seem to indicate it probably is a CJ. The
60/40 bench seat was an option, fairly rare except for the Tuxedo Park
model. Likewise the steel hardtops were a dealer installed option,
******/Kaiser/AMC never actually built metal tops. They just bolted
on, not actually part of the body as on sliding door postal jeeps
(that arn't technically DJs as they were built by someone other than
******/AMC- IIRC Rockwell)

To pin down exactly what you're looking at try looking through the
spotters guides at the Early CJ5 site:

http://www.earlycj5.com/modules.php?...rtid=32&page=1

All the body parts (& complete bodies) are readily available, priced
all the way from "It Keeps the Wind Out" to "Full Resto Factory
Correct" ,J.C. Whitney is about the cheapest. A quick web search will
bring up the pricier options. For some weird reason the "proper"
fenders (short without the side marker indents) are about $300, the
slightly later style (short with the indents) are about 1/3 of that.
AFAIK they're otherwise identical.

Check the frame around the spring hangers for cracks, especially if
the serial # indicates it's a '57 or later - check here:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/history/serial.html

As with the body all the mechancals are still available, usually at
you local UAP. All the early CJs were pretty much the same
mechanically so there's more good info on what to look for to be found
here:

http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/

http://www.thecj2apage.com/


Be Warned- if you want to build it for "Off Road" plan on a Saginaw
steering conversion. If you're thinking resto plan on a major
steering overhaul as the Ross setup needs EVERYTHING to be tight to
keep the gray hairs away ;).

Even for full on restos 11" brake/ dual MC upgrades are genearlly
considered to be A Good Idea.

$1200 does sound way outta line, basically you're buying a frame &
some axles, & you're not sure if they're any good :(. Still, if its a
project you're looking for these things ain't getting any commoner,
especially in stock form.

Good luck, let us know if you go for it-

Howard

http://users.eastlink.ca/~howarde/Tonka.html


On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:32:42 -0400, Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com>
wrote:

>
>
>On my way home from a job I stopped to look at a Jeep parted on the side
>of the road with a "For Sale" sign in the window. The sign claimed that
>it was a "CJ-5" but they obviously don't know what they are talking about,
>it was pretty clearly a DJ: fore-shortened hood and fenders, CJ-5 style
>tub with a factory metal hard top (swinging doors, not sliding), left hand
>drive, 2-piece front bench seat, 4 cyl, manual, 4WD. Old-style channel
>frame (not boxed) and the windshield latches are the early over-center
>type, not the 70's screw-type.
>
>The sheet metal is in tough shape, both fenders need replacement and the
>tub needs a lot of metal replacement in the usual places. The radiator is
>out of the truck and the sign claims "Needs head gasket -- have spare
>parts". Uh huh, that means "not running".
>
>They're asking $1200, obviously way too high. I'm thinking more like
>$400. I'm not really serious about this (I've developed a hankering for a
>project Duster from the early 70s -- if I can find the garage space), but
>now that my `79 -5 is done I don't have anything to tinker with, and I'm
>thinking it might be nice to learn a little tin-knocking. A little DJ
>might be kinda fun. Learn some sheet metal welding.
>
>Anyone know if sheet metal is available for DJ-series Jeeps? Was the
>running gear very different from standard CJs? Or is it all frustratingly
>close but entirely different?
>
>Clues, warnings and URLs gratefully accepted.
>
>
>

Lee Ayrton

Yep, a real CJ and I was full of ----, as I figured out the next day on my
way to work when I remembered that Jeep stretched the CJ to accomodate a
bigger engine, hence what looked like stubby DJ fenders to me. The
snorkle patch on the hood should have been a big clue. The steel top
looks to be dealer-original, I couldn't find any snap holes for a soft
top. The tub is the gateless flavor. I stopped and looked at it again
today because I've been thinking that _maybe_ oh just _maybe_ I could have
a hobby and make a few (very few, on an hourly basis) bucks too in the
process: Fully restored it should be worth about $5500 or so, if I could
put it back together for $3500...

Well, it ain't gonna happen. The footwells are gone, someone scabbed
diamond plate over the rear floor, the tub has old, peeling, fiberglass
repairs slathered on both sides -- I'd be rebuilding the tub from the dash
back (not that I don't enjoy a challenge, mind you). The rear crossmember
is gone, the "V" frame pintle hitch braces are almost gone and I could see
daylight through that C-channel frame under the rear wheelhouse. Even the
front cross member has turned to flaky pie dough. That's a lot of frame
repairs. Oh, and the rear door is missing (but the front ones have
crank-up windows!)

I'd mis-remembered the price too: They're asking $700, which is probably
a bit more than it is worth parted out if I had buyers waiting. The $1200
figure came from the early-40s closed cab ex-military Dodge truck a little
further down the road. It isn't in much better shape: Both doors need new
bottoms, the floor's gone, brush guard is gone, missing some rims, no bed,
and so on.

Ah, well. I'd have had to rent space to store my `79 anyway if I got that
early CJ. Bet those grapes are sour...



On Tue, 24 Aug 2004, L.W.([iso-8859-1] ßill) ------ III wrote:

> That's a Real Civilian Jeep:
> http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/jeeps/70cj5.html No Jeeper would buy that
> steel top, though.
> The over center windshield latch are stock, and as soon as we left
> the road off it came: http://www.----------.com/rexBarb.jpg
> The open channel frame is the strongest, that's why all commercial
> trucks use them, and an added bonus is they don't hold water and rust
> out, like your AMC frame will.
> --
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>>
>> On my way home from a job I stopped to look at a Jeep parted on the side
>> of the road with a "For Sale" sign in the window. The sign claimed that
>> it was a "CJ-5" but they obviously don't know what they are talking about,
>> it was pretty clearly a DJ: fore-shortened hood and fenders, CJ-5 style
>> tub with a factory metal hard top (swinging doors, not sliding), left hand
>> drive, 2-piece front bench seat, 4 cyl, manual, 4WD. Old-style channel
>> frame (not boxed) and the windshield latches are the early over-center
>> type, not the 70's screw-type.
>>
>> The sheet metal is in tough shape, both fenders need replacement and the
>> tub needs a lot of metal replacement in the usual places. The radiator is
>> out of the truck and the sign claims "Needs head gasket -- have spare
>> parts". Uh huh, that means "not running".
>>
>> They're asking $1200, obviously way too high. I'm thinking more like
>> $400. I'm not really serious about this (I've developed a hankering fora
>> project Duster from the early 70s -- if I can find the garage space), but
>> now that my `79 -5 is done I don't have anything to tinker with, and I'm
>> thinking it might be nice to learn a little tin-knocking. A little DJ
>> might be kinda fun. Learn some sheet metal welding.
>>
>> Anyone know if sheet metal is available for DJ-series Jeeps? Was the
>> running gear very different from standard CJs? Or is it all frustratingly
>> close but entirely different?
>>
>> Clues, warnings and URLs gratefully accepted.
>

Lee Ayrton

Yep, a real CJ and I was full of ----, as I figured out the next day on my
way to work when I remembered that Jeep stretched the CJ to accomodate a
bigger engine, hence what looked like stubby DJ fenders to me. The
snorkle patch on the hood should have been a big clue. The steel top
looks to be dealer-original, I couldn't find any snap holes for a soft
top. The tub is the gateless flavor. I stopped and looked at it again
today because I've been thinking that _maybe_ oh just _maybe_ I could have
a hobby and make a few (very few, on an hourly basis) bucks too in the
process: Fully restored it should be worth about $5500 or so, if I could
put it back together for $3500...

Well, it ain't gonna happen. The footwells are gone, someone scabbed
diamond plate over the rear floor, the tub has old, peeling, fiberglass
repairs slathered on both sides -- I'd be rebuilding the tub from the dash
back (not that I don't enjoy a challenge, mind you). The rear crossmember
is gone, the "V" frame pintle hitch braces are almost gone and I could see
daylight through that C-channel frame under the rear wheelhouse. Even the
front cross member has turned to flaky pie dough. That's a lot of frame
repairs. Oh, and the rear door is missing (but the front ones have
crank-up windows!)

I'd mis-remembered the price too: They're asking $700, which is probably
a bit more than it is worth parted out if I had buyers waiting. The $1200
figure came from the early-40s closed cab ex-military Dodge truck a little
further down the road. It isn't in much better shape: Both doors need new
bottoms, the floor's gone, brush guard is gone, missing some rims, no bed,
and so on.

Ah, well. I'd have had to rent space to store my `79 anyway if I got that
early CJ. Bet those grapes are sour...



On Tue, 24 Aug 2004, L.W.([iso-8859-1] ßill) ------ III wrote:

> That's a Real Civilian Jeep:
> http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/jeeps/70cj5.html No Jeeper would buy that
> steel top, though.
> The over center windshield latch are stock, and as soon as we left
> the road off it came: http://www.----------.com/rexBarb.jpg
> The open channel frame is the strongest, that's why all commercial
> trucks use them, and an added bonus is they don't hold water and rust
> out, like your AMC frame will.
> --
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>>
>> On my way home from a job I stopped to look at a Jeep parted on the side
>> of the road with a "For Sale" sign in the window. The sign claimed that
>> it was a "CJ-5" but they obviously don't know what they are talking about,
>> it was pretty clearly a DJ: fore-shortened hood and fenders, CJ-5 style
>> tub with a factory metal hard top (swinging doors, not sliding), left hand
>> drive, 2-piece front bench seat, 4 cyl, manual, 4WD. Old-style channel
>> frame (not boxed) and the windshield latches are the early over-center
>> type, not the 70's screw-type.
>>
>> The sheet metal is in tough shape, both fenders need replacement and the
>> tub needs a lot of metal replacement in the usual places. The radiator is
>> out of the truck and the sign claims "Needs head gasket -- have spare
>> parts". Uh huh, that means "not running".
>>
>> They're asking $1200, obviously way too high. I'm thinking more like
>> $400. I'm not really serious about this (I've developed a hankering fora
>> project Duster from the early 70s -- if I can find the garage space), but
>> now that my `79 -5 is done I don't have anything to tinker with, and I'm
>> thinking it might be nice to learn a little tin-knocking. A little DJ
>> might be kinda fun. Learn some sheet metal welding.
>>
>> Anyone know if sheet metal is available for DJ-series Jeeps? Was the
>> running gear very different from standard CJs? Or is it all frustratingly
>> close but entirely different?
>>
>> Clues, warnings and URLs gratefully accepted.
>

Lee Ayrton

Yep, a real CJ and I was full of ----, as I figured out the next day on my
way to work when I remembered that Jeep stretched the CJ to accomodate a
bigger engine, hence what looked like stubby DJ fenders to me. The
snorkle patch on the hood should have been a big clue. The steel top
looks to be dealer-original, I couldn't find any snap holes for a soft
top. The tub is the gateless flavor. I stopped and looked at it again
today because I've been thinking that _maybe_ oh just _maybe_ I could have
a hobby and make a few (very few, on an hourly basis) bucks too in the
process: Fully restored it should be worth about $5500 or so, if I could
put it back together for $3500...

Well, it ain't gonna happen. The footwells are gone, someone scabbed
diamond plate over the rear floor, the tub has old, peeling, fiberglass
repairs slathered on both sides -- I'd be rebuilding the tub from the dash
back (not that I don't enjoy a challenge, mind you). The rear crossmember
is gone, the "V" frame pintle hitch braces are almost gone and I could see
daylight through that C-channel frame under the rear wheelhouse. Even the
front cross member has turned to flaky pie dough. That's a lot of frame
repairs. Oh, and the rear door is missing (but the front ones have
crank-up windows!)

I'd mis-remembered the price too: They're asking $700, which is probably
a bit more than it is worth parted out if I had buyers waiting. The $1200
figure came from the early-40s closed cab ex-military Dodge truck a little
further down the road. It isn't in much better shape: Both doors need new
bottoms, the floor's gone, brush guard is gone, missing some rims, no bed,
and so on.

Ah, well. I'd have had to rent space to store my `79 anyway if I got that
early CJ. Bet those grapes are sour...



On Tue, 24 Aug 2004, L.W.([iso-8859-1] ßill) ------ III wrote:

> That's a Real Civilian Jeep:
> http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/jeeps/70cj5.html No Jeeper would buy that
> steel top, though.
> The over center windshield latch are stock, and as soon as we left
> the road off it came: http://www.----------.com/rexBarb.jpg
> The open channel frame is the strongest, that's why all commercial
> trucks use them, and an added bonus is they don't hold water and rust
> out, like your AMC frame will.
> --
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>>
>> On my way home from a job I stopped to look at a Jeep parted on the side
>> of the road with a "For Sale" sign in the window. The sign claimed that
>> it was a "CJ-5" but they obviously don't know what they are talking about,
>> it was pretty clearly a DJ: fore-shortened hood and fenders, CJ-5 style
>> tub with a factory metal hard top (swinging doors, not sliding), left hand
>> drive, 2-piece front bench seat, 4 cyl, manual, 4WD. Old-style channel
>> frame (not boxed) and the windshield latches are the early over-center
>> type, not the 70's screw-type.
>>
>> The sheet metal is in tough shape, both fenders need replacement and the
>> tub needs a lot of metal replacement in the usual places. The radiator is
>> out of the truck and the sign claims "Needs head gasket -- have spare
>> parts". Uh huh, that means "not running".
>>
>> They're asking $1200, obviously way too high. I'm thinking more like
>> $400. I'm not really serious about this (I've developed a hankering fora
>> project Duster from the early 70s -- if I can find the garage space), but
>> now that my `79 -5 is done I don't have anything to tinker with, and I'm
>> thinking it might be nice to learn a little tin-knocking. A little DJ
>> might be kinda fun. Learn some sheet metal welding.
>>
>> Anyone know if sheet metal is available for DJ-series Jeeps? Was the
>> running gear very different from standard CJs? Or is it all frustratingly
>> close but entirely different?
>>
>> Clues, warnings and URLs gratefully accepted.
>