Re: Switching Head bolts
finally man! congrats! now go break something else on it! heh-jeeping this
time though... "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2g9tquFbc68U1@uni-berlin.de... > Just had my engine rebuilt. New cam, new crank 10/10, new bearings, new > pistons and rings, flywheel balanced and all married up to my 4.0L head out > the door. > > Now the R&R guy has noticed one of the head bolts is out of position for the > power steering bracket so he needs to switch them. > > Is there any problem switching two head bolts which reside side by side > without going through the entire torquing sequence again? > > That is, can these two bolts be taking out, switched, put back in and > torqued down without any problems? > > > R&R guy says no problem. > > Thanks, > > Bill > > |
Re: Switching Head bolts
Thanks Chris,
I'll question the rebuilder when I go in for a visual to extend the warranty. Thanks again, Bill "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:w%Rnc.51052$u_4.16148@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > I just have to add my 2 cents here Bill. I hope to heck that whatever they > do to fix the bolt problem works out for you. Things like this make me glad > that I rebuild my own stuff. Anyway, for what you paid for the rebuild, I > would insist that they change the head gasket. I don't know what type of > gasket they used, but some of them form quite a bond to the head and block > surfaces, so relaxing the bolt torque could cause the gasket layers to > separate slightly. Then it becomes leak time. Like Mike said, since there > were different types of bolts for the heads, the guy should have at least > asked you where the special bracket bolt belonged, unless he knew for sure > (which he didn't). The second thing here that would raise a red flag is the > fact that the rebuilder didn't insist on changing the gasket after his oops. > I rebuild engines in my own shop and would never risk that. Is he going to > do all the labor and reimburse you for your car rental, towing, etc. if the > gasket fails? If not, I would insist he change the gasket. The gasket is > probably about $40 at most, and and hour or two of his time to do it right. > IMHO, this sounds like poor quality work. > > Chris > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2ga6scFhuirU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Ha ha.... I'm getting to know you well Mike. After the last post that I > > knew you'd have that reply as I was thinking I'd have the same reply. :-) > > > > Thanks for the Devil's Advocate. I certainly hope my 'luck' doesn't fall > > into the 'bad' category from here out. I'm already shot to my bones with > > nerves on this one. > > > > Come on housing crash so I can afford my own garage :-) > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:409FE117.73D0C0AD@sympatico.ca... > > > I just like to play the devil's advocate some days Bill, I hope it works > > > out great for you. > > > > > > Still, not knowing where the freaking bolts go sure doesn't instill > > > confidence in the statement 'I choose him because he has done this mod > > > before and is fully familiar with it.' > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > Mike, the mechanic didn't put the thing together. The > rebuilder/machine > > > > shop did. They did the rebuild on the short block and put my > previously > > > > machined 4.0L head on it. > > > > > > > > There are two entities in this process. 1. the R&R guy, you can call > > him a > > > > mechanic. 2. The Machine Shop/Rebuilder. > > > > > > > > #2 is the one who bolted the thing together and I choose him because > he > > has > > > > done this mod before and is fully familiar with it. This guy has a > > history > > > > of jeeps including racing sand jeeps. He's the best I could find in > > this > > > > area for this application. > > > > > > > > And > > > > > > > > He warranties the work for a year. > > > > > > > > He confirmed that it would be no problem for #1 (mechanic) to change > the > > > > bolts so if he's wrong he'll have to fix it if it comes down to it. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:409FD597.39970CF5@sympatico.ca... > > > > > He already has a mis match on the head gasket Steve. > > > > > > > > > > He is putting a 4.0 head onto a 4.2 block. That makes it a > 'twitchy' > > > > > installation to start. > > > > > > > > > > 'I' would not take a chance on blowing a new engine for something > that > > > > > dumb. > > > > > > > > > > Maybe that is just me, but.... If I forked out in the order of $2K > > plus > > > > > I most certainly would not take a chance on a head gasket that > 'might > > or > > > > > might not' be compromised. > > > > > > > > > > I have assembled and have seen assembled a whole pile of engines > over > > > > > the years and most people, let alone 'mechanics' stop and think when > > > > > they find 2 head bolts that are nutted studs instead of bolts. > > > > > > > > > > It seem 'logical' that these 'strange' bolt like things should go > > > > > somewhere special eh? > > > > > > > > > > One is for the bracket, the other goes on the back drivers side > corner > > > > > for the ground strap to bolt onto. > > > > > > > > > > In all due fairness poor Bill's 'mechanic' is kinda on the brain > dead > > > > > side to just put it together wrong without checking wouldn't you > say? > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Steve G wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I've done it hundreds of times and there won't be a problem > > switching > > > > the > > > > > > bolts and just re-torquing those two. In all probability it's one > of > > the > > > > > > outside bolts which are the last to be torqued in the sequence > > anyways. > > > > > > > > > > > > In all fairness to the mechanic Mike, these guys have no way of > > knowing > > > > > > which bolt is supposed to have the stud on it and different > > > > installations > > > > > > sometimes have different positions for that bolt. May not be the > > case > > > > with > > > > > > all 4.0, although I doubt that they all come the same way in all > > > > > > applications. I know for a fact lots of Pontiac, Buick and Olds > > v-8's > > > > would > > > > > > have the head bolts with the stud on it in different locations > > depending > > > > on > > > > > > what model vehicle it was going in and the assembler would have no > > way > > > > of > > > > > > knowing. > > > > > > Steve G. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > > > news:409FC445.928E9186@sympatico.ca... > > > > > > > I don't know where some of these 'mechanics' come from.... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > He put the 'wrong' bolt in the hole..... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Man oh man, if it wasn't for bad you wouldn't have any luck at > all > > > > would > > > > > > > you? > > > > > > > ;-) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I for one most certainly would not accept a rebuilt engine with > an > > > > > > > already 'blown' head gasket. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Head gaskets only compress once. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Just had my engine rebuilt. New cam, new crank 10/10, new > > bearings, > > > > new > > > > > > > > pistons and rings, flywheel balanced and all married up to my > > 4.0L > > > > head > > > > > > out > > > > > > > > the door. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Now the R&R guy has noticed one of the head bolts is out of > > position > > > > for > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > power steering bracket so he needs to switch them. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is there any problem switching two head bolts which reside > side > > by > > > > side > > > > > > > > without going through the entire torquing sequence again? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > That is, can these two bolts be taking out, switched, put back > > in > > > > and > > > > > > > > torqued down without any problems? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > R&R guy says no problem. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > |
Re: Switching Head bolts
Thanks Chris,
I'll question the rebuilder when I go in for a visual to extend the warranty. Thanks again, Bill "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:w%Rnc.51052$u_4.16148@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > I just have to add my 2 cents here Bill. I hope to heck that whatever they > do to fix the bolt problem works out for you. Things like this make me glad > that I rebuild my own stuff. Anyway, for what you paid for the rebuild, I > would insist that they change the head gasket. I don't know what type of > gasket they used, but some of them form quite a bond to the head and block > surfaces, so relaxing the bolt torque could cause the gasket layers to > separate slightly. Then it becomes leak time. Like Mike said, since there > were different types of bolts for the heads, the guy should have at least > asked you where the special bracket bolt belonged, unless he knew for sure > (which he didn't). The second thing here that would raise a red flag is the > fact that the rebuilder didn't insist on changing the gasket after his oops. > I rebuild engines in my own shop and would never risk that. Is he going to > do all the labor and reimburse you for your car rental, towing, etc. if the > gasket fails? If not, I would insist he change the gasket. The gasket is > probably about $40 at most, and and hour or two of his time to do it right. > IMHO, this sounds like poor quality work. > > Chris > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2ga6scFhuirU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Ha ha.... I'm getting to know you well Mike. After the last post that I > > knew you'd have that reply as I was thinking I'd have the same reply. :-) > > > > Thanks for the Devil's Advocate. I certainly hope my 'luck' doesn't fall > > into the 'bad' category from here out. I'm already shot to my bones with > > nerves on this one. > > > > Come on housing crash so I can afford my own garage :-) > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:409FE117.73D0C0AD@sympatico.ca... > > > I just like to play the devil's advocate some days Bill, I hope it works > > > out great for you. > > > > > > Still, not knowing where the freaking bolts go sure doesn't instill > > > confidence in the statement 'I choose him because he has done this mod > > > before and is fully familiar with it.' > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > Mike, the mechanic didn't put the thing together. The > rebuilder/machine > > > > shop did. They did the rebuild on the short block and put my > previously > > > > machined 4.0L head on it. > > > > > > > > There are two entities in this process. 1. the R&R guy, you can call > > him a > > > > mechanic. 2. The Machine Shop/Rebuilder. > > > > > > > > #2 is the one who bolted the thing together and I choose him because > he > > has > > > > done this mod before and is fully familiar with it. This guy has a > > history > > > > of jeeps including racing sand jeeps. He's the best I could find in > > this > > > > area for this application. > > > > > > > > And > > > > > > > > He warranties the work for a year. > > > > > > > > He confirmed that it would be no problem for #1 (mechanic) to change > the > > > > bolts so if he's wrong he'll have to fix it if it comes down to it. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:409FD597.39970CF5@sympatico.ca... > > > > > He already has a mis match on the head gasket Steve. > > > > > > > > > > He is putting a 4.0 head onto a 4.2 block. That makes it a > 'twitchy' > > > > > installation to start. > > > > > > > > > > 'I' would not take a chance on blowing a new engine for something > that > > > > > dumb. > > > > > > > > > > Maybe that is just me, but.... If I forked out in the order of $2K > > plus > > > > > I most certainly would not take a chance on a head gasket that > 'might > > or > > > > > might not' be compromised. > > > > > > > > > > I have assembled and have seen assembled a whole pile of engines > over > > > > > the years and most people, let alone 'mechanics' stop and think when > > > > > they find 2 head bolts that are nutted studs instead of bolts. > > > > > > > > > > It seem 'logical' that these 'strange' bolt like things should go > > > > > somewhere special eh? > > > > > > > > > > One is for the bracket, the other goes on the back drivers side > corner > > > > > for the ground strap to bolt onto. > > > > > > > > > > In all due fairness poor Bill's 'mechanic' is kinda on the brain > dead > > > > > side to just put it together wrong without checking wouldn't you > say? > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Steve G wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I've done it hundreds of times and there won't be a problem > > switching > > > > the > > > > > > bolts and just re-torquing those two. In all probability it's one > of > > the > > > > > > outside bolts which are the last to be torqued in the sequence > > anyways. > > > > > > > > > > > > In all fairness to the mechanic Mike, these guys have no way of > > knowing > > > > > > which bolt is supposed to have the stud on it and different > > > > installations > > > > > > sometimes have different positions for that bolt. May not be the > > case > > > > with > > > > > > all 4.0, although I doubt that they all come the same way in all > > > > > > applications. I know for a fact lots of Pontiac, Buick and Olds > > v-8's > > > > would > > > > > > have the head bolts with the stud on it in different locations > > depending > > > > on > > > > > > what model vehicle it was going in and the assembler would have no > > way > > > > of > > > > > > knowing. > > > > > > Steve G. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > > > news:409FC445.928E9186@sympatico.ca... > > > > > > > I don't know where some of these 'mechanics' come from.... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > He put the 'wrong' bolt in the hole..... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Man oh man, if it wasn't for bad you wouldn't have any luck at > all > > > > would > > > > > > > you? > > > > > > > ;-) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I for one most certainly would not accept a rebuilt engine with > an > > > > > > > already 'blown' head gasket. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Head gaskets only compress once. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Just had my engine rebuilt. New cam, new crank 10/10, new > > bearings, > > > > new > > > > > > > > pistons and rings, flywheel balanced and all married up to my > > 4.0L > > > > head > > > > > > out > > > > > > > > the door. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Now the R&R guy has noticed one of the head bolts is out of > > position > > > > for > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > power steering bracket so he needs to switch them. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is there any problem switching two head bolts which reside > side > > by > > > > side > > > > > > > > without going through the entire torquing sequence again? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > That is, can these two bolts be taking out, switched, put back > > in > > > > and > > > > > > > > torqued down without any problems? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > R&R guy says no problem. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > |
Re: Switching Head bolts
Thanks Chris,
I'll question the rebuilder when I go in for a visual to extend the warranty. Thanks again, Bill "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:w%Rnc.51052$u_4.16148@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > I just have to add my 2 cents here Bill. I hope to heck that whatever they > do to fix the bolt problem works out for you. Things like this make me glad > that I rebuild my own stuff. Anyway, for what you paid for the rebuild, I > would insist that they change the head gasket. I don't know what type of > gasket they used, but some of them form quite a bond to the head and block > surfaces, so relaxing the bolt torque could cause the gasket layers to > separate slightly. Then it becomes leak time. Like Mike said, since there > were different types of bolts for the heads, the guy should have at least > asked you where the special bracket bolt belonged, unless he knew for sure > (which he didn't). The second thing here that would raise a red flag is the > fact that the rebuilder didn't insist on changing the gasket after his oops. > I rebuild engines in my own shop and would never risk that. Is he going to > do all the labor and reimburse you for your car rental, towing, etc. if the > gasket fails? If not, I would insist he change the gasket. The gasket is > probably about $40 at most, and and hour or two of his time to do it right. > IMHO, this sounds like poor quality work. > > Chris > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2ga6scFhuirU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Ha ha.... I'm getting to know you well Mike. After the last post that I > > knew you'd have that reply as I was thinking I'd have the same reply. :-) > > > > Thanks for the Devil's Advocate. I certainly hope my 'luck' doesn't fall > > into the 'bad' category from here out. I'm already shot to my bones with > > nerves on this one. > > > > Come on housing crash so I can afford my own garage :-) > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:409FE117.73D0C0AD@sympatico.ca... > > > I just like to play the devil's advocate some days Bill, I hope it works > > > out great for you. > > > > > > Still, not knowing where the freaking bolts go sure doesn't instill > > > confidence in the statement 'I choose him because he has done this mod > > > before and is fully familiar with it.' > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > Mike, the mechanic didn't put the thing together. The > rebuilder/machine > > > > shop did. They did the rebuild on the short block and put my > previously > > > > machined 4.0L head on it. > > > > > > > > There are two entities in this process. 1. the R&R guy, you can call > > him a > > > > mechanic. 2. The Machine Shop/Rebuilder. > > > > > > > > #2 is the one who bolted the thing together and I choose him because > he > > has > > > > done this mod before and is fully familiar with it. This guy has a > > history > > > > of jeeps including racing sand jeeps. He's the best I could find in > > this > > > > area for this application. > > > > > > > > And > > > > > > > > He warranties the work for a year. > > > > > > > > He confirmed that it would be no problem for #1 (mechanic) to change > the > > > > bolts so if he's wrong he'll have to fix it if it comes down to it. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:409FD597.39970CF5@sympatico.ca... > > > > > He already has a mis match on the head gasket Steve. > > > > > > > > > > He is putting a 4.0 head onto a 4.2 block. That makes it a > 'twitchy' > > > > > installation to start. > > > > > > > > > > 'I' would not take a chance on blowing a new engine for something > that > > > > > dumb. > > > > > > > > > > Maybe that is just me, but.... If I forked out in the order of $2K > > plus > > > > > I most certainly would not take a chance on a head gasket that > 'might > > or > > > > > might not' be compromised. > > > > > > > > > > I have assembled and have seen assembled a whole pile of engines > over > > > > > the years and most people, let alone 'mechanics' stop and think when > > > > > they find 2 head bolts that are nutted studs instead of bolts. > > > > > > > > > > It seem 'logical' that these 'strange' bolt like things should go > > > > > somewhere special eh? > > > > > > > > > > One is for the bracket, the other goes on the back drivers side > corner > > > > > for the ground strap to bolt onto. > > > > > > > > > > In all due fairness poor Bill's 'mechanic' is kinda on the brain > dead > > > > > side to just put it together wrong without checking wouldn't you > say? > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Steve G wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I've done it hundreds of times and there won't be a problem > > switching > > > > the > > > > > > bolts and just re-torquing those two. In all probability it's one > of > > the > > > > > > outside bolts which are the last to be torqued in the sequence > > anyways. > > > > > > > > > > > > In all fairness to the mechanic Mike, these guys have no way of > > knowing > > > > > > which bolt is supposed to have the stud on it and different > > > > installations > > > > > > sometimes have different positions for that bolt. May not be the > > case > > > > with > > > > > > all 4.0, although I doubt that they all come the same way in all > > > > > > applications. I know for a fact lots of Pontiac, Buick and Olds > > v-8's > > > > would > > > > > > have the head bolts with the stud on it in different locations > > depending > > > > on > > > > > > what model vehicle it was going in and the assembler would have no > > way > > > > of > > > > > > knowing. > > > > > > Steve G. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > > > news:409FC445.928E9186@sympatico.ca... > > > > > > > I don't know where some of these 'mechanics' come from.... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > He put the 'wrong' bolt in the hole..... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Man oh man, if it wasn't for bad you wouldn't have any luck at > all > > > > would > > > > > > > you? > > > > > > > ;-) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I for one most certainly would not accept a rebuilt engine with > an > > > > > > > already 'blown' head gasket. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Head gaskets only compress once. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Just had my engine rebuilt. New cam, new crank 10/10, new > > bearings, > > > > new > > > > > > > > pistons and rings, flywheel balanced and all married up to my > > 4.0L > > > > head > > > > > > out > > > > > > > > the door. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Now the R&R guy has noticed one of the head bolts is out of > > position > > > > for > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > power steering bracket so he needs to switch them. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is there any problem switching two head bolts which reside > side > > by > > > > side > > > > > > > > without going through the entire torquing sequence again? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > That is, can these two bolts be taking out, switched, put back > > in > > > > and > > > > > > > > torqued down without any problems? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > R&R guy says no problem. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > |
Re: Switching Head bolts
Thanks Chris,
I'll question the rebuilder when I go in for a visual to extend the warranty. Thanks again, Bill "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:w%Rnc.51052$u_4.16148@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > I just have to add my 2 cents here Bill. I hope to heck that whatever they > do to fix the bolt problem works out for you. Things like this make me glad > that I rebuild my own stuff. Anyway, for what you paid for the rebuild, I > would insist that they change the head gasket. I don't know what type of > gasket they used, but some of them form quite a bond to the head and block > surfaces, so relaxing the bolt torque could cause the gasket layers to > separate slightly. Then it becomes leak time. Like Mike said, since there > were different types of bolts for the heads, the guy should have at least > asked you where the special bracket bolt belonged, unless he knew for sure > (which he didn't). The second thing here that would raise a red flag is the > fact that the rebuilder didn't insist on changing the gasket after his oops. > I rebuild engines in my own shop and would never risk that. Is he going to > do all the labor and reimburse you for your car rental, towing, etc. if the > gasket fails? If not, I would insist he change the gasket. The gasket is > probably about $40 at most, and and hour or two of his time to do it right. > IMHO, this sounds like poor quality work. > > Chris > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2ga6scFhuirU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Ha ha.... I'm getting to know you well Mike. After the last post that I > > knew you'd have that reply as I was thinking I'd have the same reply. :-) > > > > Thanks for the Devil's Advocate. I certainly hope my 'luck' doesn't fall > > into the 'bad' category from here out. I'm already shot to my bones with > > nerves on this one. > > > > Come on housing crash so I can afford my own garage :-) > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:409FE117.73D0C0AD@sympatico.ca... > > > I just like to play the devil's advocate some days Bill, I hope it works > > > out great for you. > > > > > > Still, not knowing where the freaking bolts go sure doesn't instill > > > confidence in the statement 'I choose him because he has done this mod > > > before and is fully familiar with it.' > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > Mike, the mechanic didn't put the thing together. The > rebuilder/machine > > > > shop did. They did the rebuild on the short block and put my > previously > > > > machined 4.0L head on it. > > > > > > > > There are two entities in this process. 1. the R&R guy, you can call > > him a > > > > mechanic. 2. The Machine Shop/Rebuilder. > > > > > > > > #2 is the one who bolted the thing together and I choose him because > he > > has > > > > done this mod before and is fully familiar with it. This guy has a > > history > > > > of jeeps including racing sand jeeps. He's the best I could find in > > this > > > > area for this application. > > > > > > > > And > > > > > > > > He warranties the work for a year. > > > > > > > > He confirmed that it would be no problem for #1 (mechanic) to change > the > > > > bolts so if he's wrong he'll have to fix it if it comes down to it. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:409FD597.39970CF5@sympatico.ca... > > > > > He already has a mis match on the head gasket Steve. > > > > > > > > > > He is putting a 4.0 head onto a 4.2 block. That makes it a > 'twitchy' > > > > > installation to start. > > > > > > > > > > 'I' would not take a chance on blowing a new engine for something > that > > > > > dumb. > > > > > > > > > > Maybe that is just me, but.... If I forked out in the order of $2K > > plus > > > > > I most certainly would not take a chance on a head gasket that > 'might > > or > > > > > might not' be compromised. > > > > > > > > > > I have assembled and have seen assembled a whole pile of engines > over > > > > > the years and most people, let alone 'mechanics' stop and think when > > > > > they find 2 head bolts that are nutted studs instead of bolts. > > > > > > > > > > It seem 'logical' that these 'strange' bolt like things should go > > > > > somewhere special eh? > > > > > > > > > > One is for the bracket, the other goes on the back drivers side > corner > > > > > for the ground strap to bolt onto. > > > > > > > > > > In all due fairness poor Bill's 'mechanic' is kinda on the brain > dead > > > > > side to just put it together wrong without checking wouldn't you > say? > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Steve G wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I've done it hundreds of times and there won't be a problem > > switching > > > > the > > > > > > bolts and just re-torquing those two. In all probability it's one > of > > the > > > > > > outside bolts which are the last to be torqued in the sequence > > anyways. > > > > > > > > > > > > In all fairness to the mechanic Mike, these guys have no way of > > knowing > > > > > > which bolt is supposed to have the stud on it and different > > > > installations > > > > > > sometimes have different positions for that bolt. May not be the > > case > > > > with > > > > > > all 4.0, although I doubt that they all come the same way in all > > > > > > applications. I know for a fact lots of Pontiac, Buick and Olds > > v-8's > > > > would > > > > > > have the head bolts with the stud on it in different locations > > depending > > > > on > > > > > > what model vehicle it was going in and the assembler would have no > > way > > > > of > > > > > > knowing. > > > > > > Steve G. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > > > news:409FC445.928E9186@sympatico.ca... > > > > > > > I don't know where some of these 'mechanics' come from.... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > He put the 'wrong' bolt in the hole..... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Man oh man, if it wasn't for bad you wouldn't have any luck at > all > > > > would > > > > > > > you? > > > > > > > ;-) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I for one most certainly would not accept a rebuilt engine with > an > > > > > > > already 'blown' head gasket. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Head gaskets only compress once. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Just had my engine rebuilt. New cam, new crank 10/10, new > > bearings, > > > > new > > > > > > > > pistons and rings, flywheel balanced and all married up to my > > 4.0L > > > > head > > > > > > out > > > > > > > > the door. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Now the R&R guy has noticed one of the head bolts is out of > > position > > > > for > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > power steering bracket so he needs to switch them. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is there any problem switching two head bolts which reside > side > > by > > > > side > > > > > > > > without going through the entire torquing sequence again? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > That is, can these two bolts be taking out, switched, put back > > in > > > > and > > > > > > > > torqued down without any problems? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > R&R guy says no problem. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > |
Re: Switching Head bolts
I have seen that head gasket separation too many times....
I used to run a 1275 CC block with an 1100 cc head on it for the compression boost from the smaller dome with the same sized valves in an old Mini and that had a mis matched gasket like Bill's does. I ran it fast sometimes, LOL, radar clocked at 132.4 mph and it was a 'real' bugger to keep a head gasket in it. (loved to top out the 'hot rod' 1/4 mile Camaros and Vettes as I hit 4th at 104 mph @ 5000 rpm or so and waved as I went by) My buddy and I had a head gasket swap down to 30 minutes.... The British Leyland dealer thought they had a bad batch of gaskets until they called me in for a 'free' check of my 'built' engine that a Mini guru they know well made... It broke the first compression gauge, popped the pin off. The starter would barely turn it over and it was a 'thumper' for idle with a 2 1/2" straight pipe and glass pack. I don't think Bill wants to get that good at swapping head gaskets unless he had the benefits I had.... Mike c wrote: > > I just have to add my 2 cents here Bill. I hope to heck that whatever they > do to fix the bolt problem works out for you. Things like this make me glad > that I rebuild my own stuff. Anyway, for what you paid for the rebuild, I > would insist that they change the head gasket. I don't know what type of > gasket they used, but some of them form quite a bond to the head and block > surfaces, so relaxing the bolt torque could cause the gasket layers to > separate slightly. Then it becomes leak time. Like Mike said, since there > were different types of bolts for the heads, the guy should have at least > asked you where the special bracket bolt belonged, unless he knew for sure > (which he didn't). The second thing here that would raise a red flag is the > fact that the rebuilder didn't insist on changing the gasket after his oops. > I rebuild engines in my own shop and would never risk that. Is he going to > do all the labor and reimburse you for your car rental, towing, etc. if the > gasket fails? If not, I would insist he change the gasket. The gasket is > probably about $40 at most, and and hour or two of his time to do it right. > IMHO, this sounds like poor quality work. > > Chris > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2ga6scFhuirU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Ha ha.... I'm getting to know you well Mike. After the last post that I > > knew you'd have that reply as I was thinking I'd have the same reply. :-) > > > > Thanks for the Devil's Advocate. I certainly hope my 'luck' doesn't fall > > into the 'bad' category from here out. I'm already shot to my bones with > > nerves on this one. > > > > Come on housing crash so I can afford my own garage :-) > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:409FE117.73D0C0AD@sympatico.ca... > > > I just like to play the devil's advocate some days Bill, I hope it works > > > out great for you. > > > > > > Still, not knowing where the freaking bolts go sure doesn't instill > > > confidence in the statement 'I choose him because he has done this mod > > > before and is fully familiar with it.' > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > Mike, the mechanic didn't put the thing together. The > rebuilder/machine > > > > shop did. They did the rebuild on the short block and put my > previously > > > > machined 4.0L head on it. > > > > > > > > There are two entities in this process. 1. the R&R guy, you can call > > him a > > > > mechanic. 2. The Machine Shop/Rebuilder. > > > > > > > > #2 is the one who bolted the thing together and I choose him because > he > > has > > > > done this mod before and is fully familiar with it. This guy has a > > history > > > > of jeeps including racing sand jeeps. He's the best I could find in > > this > > > > area for this application. > > > > > > > > And > > > > > > > > He warranties the work for a year. > > > > > > > > He confirmed that it would be no problem for #1 (mechanic) to change > the > > > > bolts so if he's wrong he'll have to fix it if it comes down to it. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:409FD597.39970CF5@sympatico.ca... > > > > > He already has a mis match on the head gasket Steve. > > > > > > > > > > He is putting a 4.0 head onto a 4.2 block. That makes it a > 'twitchy' > > > > > installation to start. > > > > > > > > > > 'I' would not take a chance on blowing a new engine for something > that > > > > > dumb. > > > > > > > > > > Maybe that is just me, but.... If I forked out in the order of $2K > > plus > > > > > I most certainly would not take a chance on a head gasket that > 'might > > or > > > > > might not' be compromised. > > > > > > > > > > I have assembled and have seen assembled a whole pile of engines > over > > > > > the years and most people, let alone 'mechanics' stop and think when > > > > > they find 2 head bolts that are nutted studs instead of bolts. > > > > > > > > > > It seem 'logical' that these 'strange' bolt like things should go > > > > > somewhere special eh? > > > > > > > > > > One is for the bracket, the other goes on the back drivers side > corner > > > > > for the ground strap to bolt onto. > > > > > > > > > > In all due fairness poor Bill's 'mechanic' is kinda on the brain > dead > > > > > side to just put it together wrong without checking wouldn't you > say? > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Steve G wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I've done it hundreds of times and there won't be a problem > > switching > > > > the > > > > > > bolts and just re-torquing those two. In all probability it's one > of > > the > > > > > > outside bolts which are the last to be torqued in the sequence > > anyways. > > > > > > > > > > > > In all fairness to the mechanic Mike, these guys have no way of > > knowing > > > > > > which bolt is supposed to have the stud on it and different > > > > installations > > > > > > sometimes have different positions for that bolt. May not be the > > case > > > > with > > > > > > all 4.0, although I doubt that they all come the same way in all > > > > > > applications. I know for a fact lots of Pontiac, Buick and Olds > > v-8's > > > > would > > > > > > have the head bolts with the stud on it in different locations > > depending > > > > on > > > > > > what model vehicle it was going in and the assembler would have no > > way > > > > of > > > > > > knowing. > > > > > > Steve G. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > > > news:409FC445.928E9186@sympatico.ca... > > > > > > > I don't know where some of these 'mechanics' come from.... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > He put the 'wrong' bolt in the hole..... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Man oh man, if it wasn't for bad you wouldn't have any luck at > all > > > > would > > > > > > > you? > > > > > > > ;-) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I for one most certainly would not accept a rebuilt engine with > an > > > > > > > already 'blown' head gasket. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Head gaskets only compress once. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Just had my engine rebuilt. New cam, new crank 10/10, new > > bearings, > > > > new > > > > > > > > pistons and rings, flywheel balanced and all married up to my > > 4.0L > > > > head > > > > > > out > > > > > > > > the door. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Now the R&R guy has noticed one of the head bolts is out of > > position > > > > for > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > power steering bracket so he needs to switch them. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is there any problem switching two head bolts which reside > side > > by > > > > side > > > > > > > > without going through the entire torquing sequence again? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > That is, can these two bolts be taking out, switched, put back > > in > > > > and > > > > > > > > torqued down without any problems? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > R&R guy says no problem. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > |
Re: Switching Head bolts
I have seen that head gasket separation too many times....
I used to run a 1275 CC block with an 1100 cc head on it for the compression boost from the smaller dome with the same sized valves in an old Mini and that had a mis matched gasket like Bill's does. I ran it fast sometimes, LOL, radar clocked at 132.4 mph and it was a 'real' bugger to keep a head gasket in it. (loved to top out the 'hot rod' 1/4 mile Camaros and Vettes as I hit 4th at 104 mph @ 5000 rpm or so and waved as I went by) My buddy and I had a head gasket swap down to 30 minutes.... The British Leyland dealer thought they had a bad batch of gaskets until they called me in for a 'free' check of my 'built' engine that a Mini guru they know well made... It broke the first compression gauge, popped the pin off. The starter would barely turn it over and it was a 'thumper' for idle with a 2 1/2" straight pipe and glass pack. I don't think Bill wants to get that good at swapping head gaskets unless he had the benefits I had.... Mike c wrote: > > I just have to add my 2 cents here Bill. I hope to heck that whatever they > do to fix the bolt problem works out for you. Things like this make me glad > that I rebuild my own stuff. Anyway, for what you paid for the rebuild, I > would insist that they change the head gasket. I don't know what type of > gasket they used, but some of them form quite a bond to the head and block > surfaces, so relaxing the bolt torque could cause the gasket layers to > separate slightly. Then it becomes leak time. Like Mike said, since there > were different types of bolts for the heads, the guy should have at least > asked you where the special bracket bolt belonged, unless he knew for sure > (which he didn't). The second thing here that would raise a red flag is the > fact that the rebuilder didn't insist on changing the gasket after his oops. > I rebuild engines in my own shop and would never risk that. Is he going to > do all the labor and reimburse you for your car rental, towing, etc. if the > gasket fails? If not, I would insist he change the gasket. The gasket is > probably about $40 at most, and and hour or two of his time to do it right. > IMHO, this sounds like poor quality work. > > Chris > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2ga6scFhuirU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Ha ha.... I'm getting to know you well Mike. After the last post that I > > knew you'd have that reply as I was thinking I'd have the same reply. :-) > > > > Thanks for the Devil's Advocate. I certainly hope my 'luck' doesn't fall > > into the 'bad' category from here out. I'm already shot to my bones with > > nerves on this one. > > > > Come on housing crash so I can afford my own garage :-) > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:409FE117.73D0C0AD@sympatico.ca... > > > I just like to play the devil's advocate some days Bill, I hope it works > > > out great for you. > > > > > > Still, not knowing where the freaking bolts go sure doesn't instill > > > confidence in the statement 'I choose him because he has done this mod > > > before and is fully familiar with it.' > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > Mike, the mechanic didn't put the thing together. The > rebuilder/machine > > > > shop did. They did the rebuild on the short block and put my > previously > > > > machined 4.0L head on it. > > > > > > > > There are two entities in this process. 1. the R&R guy, you can call > > him a > > > > mechanic. 2. The Machine Shop/Rebuilder. > > > > > > > > #2 is the one who bolted the thing together and I choose him because > he > > has > > > > done this mod before and is fully familiar with it. This guy has a > > history > > > > of jeeps including racing sand jeeps. He's the best I could find in > > this > > > > area for this application. > > > > > > > > And > > > > > > > > He warranties the work for a year. > > > > > > > > He confirmed that it would be no problem for #1 (mechanic) to change > the > > > > bolts so if he's wrong he'll have to fix it if it comes down to it. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:409FD597.39970CF5@sympatico.ca... > > > > > He already has a mis match on the head gasket Steve. > > > > > > > > > > He is putting a 4.0 head onto a 4.2 block. That makes it a > 'twitchy' > > > > > installation to start. > > > > > > > > > > 'I' would not take a chance on blowing a new engine for something > that > > > > > dumb. > > > > > > > > > > Maybe that is just me, but.... If I forked out in the order of $2K > > plus > > > > > I most certainly would not take a chance on a head gasket that > 'might > > or > > > > > might not' be compromised. > > > > > > > > > > I have assembled and have seen assembled a whole pile of engines > over > > > > > the years and most people, let alone 'mechanics' stop and think when > > > > > they find 2 head bolts that are nutted studs instead of bolts. > > > > > > > > > > It seem 'logical' that these 'strange' bolt like things should go > > > > > somewhere special eh? > > > > > > > > > > One is for the bracket, the other goes on the back drivers side > corner > > > > > for the ground strap to bolt onto. > > > > > > > > > > In all due fairness poor Bill's 'mechanic' is kinda on the brain > dead > > > > > side to just put it together wrong without checking wouldn't you > say? > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Steve G wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I've done it hundreds of times and there won't be a problem > > switching > > > > the > > > > > > bolts and just re-torquing those two. In all probability it's one > of > > the > > > > > > outside bolts which are the last to be torqued in the sequence > > anyways. > > > > > > > > > > > > In all fairness to the mechanic Mike, these guys have no way of > > knowing > > > > > > which bolt is supposed to have the stud on it and different > > > > installations > > > > > > sometimes have different positions for that bolt. May not be the > > case > > > > with > > > > > > all 4.0, although I doubt that they all come the same way in all > > > > > > applications. I know for a fact lots of Pontiac, Buick and Olds > > v-8's > > > > would > > > > > > have the head bolts with the stud on it in different locations > > depending > > > > on > > > > > > what model vehicle it was going in and the assembler would have no > > way > > > > of > > > > > > knowing. > > > > > > Steve G. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > > > news:409FC445.928E9186@sympatico.ca... > > > > > > > I don't know where some of these 'mechanics' come from.... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > He put the 'wrong' bolt in the hole..... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Man oh man, if it wasn't for bad you wouldn't have any luck at > all > > > > would > > > > > > > you? > > > > > > > ;-) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I for one most certainly would not accept a rebuilt engine with > an > > > > > > > already 'blown' head gasket. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Head gaskets only compress once. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Just had my engine rebuilt. New cam, new crank 10/10, new > > bearings, > > > > new > > > > > > > > pistons and rings, flywheel balanced and all married up to my > > 4.0L > > > > head > > > > > > out > > > > > > > > the door. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Now the R&R guy has noticed one of the head bolts is out of > > position > > > > for > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > power steering bracket so he needs to switch them. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is there any problem switching two head bolts which reside > side > > by > > > > side > > > > > > > > without going through the entire torquing sequence again? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > That is, can these two bolts be taking out, switched, put back > > in > > > > and > > > > > > > > torqued down without any problems? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > R&R guy says no problem. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > |
Re: Switching Head bolts
I have seen that head gasket separation too many times....
I used to run a 1275 CC block with an 1100 cc head on it for the compression boost from the smaller dome with the same sized valves in an old Mini and that had a mis matched gasket like Bill's does. I ran it fast sometimes, LOL, radar clocked at 132.4 mph and it was a 'real' bugger to keep a head gasket in it. (loved to top out the 'hot rod' 1/4 mile Camaros and Vettes as I hit 4th at 104 mph @ 5000 rpm or so and waved as I went by) My buddy and I had a head gasket swap down to 30 minutes.... The British Leyland dealer thought they had a bad batch of gaskets until they called me in for a 'free' check of my 'built' engine that a Mini guru they know well made... It broke the first compression gauge, popped the pin off. The starter would barely turn it over and it was a 'thumper' for idle with a 2 1/2" straight pipe and glass pack. I don't think Bill wants to get that good at swapping head gaskets unless he had the benefits I had.... Mike c wrote: > > I just have to add my 2 cents here Bill. I hope to heck that whatever they > do to fix the bolt problem works out for you. Things like this make me glad > that I rebuild my own stuff. Anyway, for what you paid for the rebuild, I > would insist that they change the head gasket. I don't know what type of > gasket they used, but some of them form quite a bond to the head and block > surfaces, so relaxing the bolt torque could cause the gasket layers to > separate slightly. Then it becomes leak time. Like Mike said, since there > were different types of bolts for the heads, the guy should have at least > asked you where the special bracket bolt belonged, unless he knew for sure > (which he didn't). The second thing here that would raise a red flag is the > fact that the rebuilder didn't insist on changing the gasket after his oops. > I rebuild engines in my own shop and would never risk that. Is he going to > do all the labor and reimburse you for your car rental, towing, etc. if the > gasket fails? If not, I would insist he change the gasket. The gasket is > probably about $40 at most, and and hour or two of his time to do it right. > IMHO, this sounds like poor quality work. > > Chris > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2ga6scFhuirU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Ha ha.... I'm getting to know you well Mike. After the last post that I > > knew you'd have that reply as I was thinking I'd have the same reply. :-) > > > > Thanks for the Devil's Advocate. I certainly hope my 'luck' doesn't fall > > into the 'bad' category from here out. I'm already shot to my bones with > > nerves on this one. > > > > Come on housing crash so I can afford my own garage :-) > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:409FE117.73D0C0AD@sympatico.ca... > > > I just like to play the devil's advocate some days Bill, I hope it works > > > out great for you. > > > > > > Still, not knowing where the freaking bolts go sure doesn't instill > > > confidence in the statement 'I choose him because he has done this mod > > > before and is fully familiar with it.' > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > Mike, the mechanic didn't put the thing together. The > rebuilder/machine > > > > shop did. They did the rebuild on the short block and put my > previously > > > > machined 4.0L head on it. > > > > > > > > There are two entities in this process. 1. the R&R guy, you can call > > him a > > > > mechanic. 2. The Machine Shop/Rebuilder. > > > > > > > > #2 is the one who bolted the thing together and I choose him because > he > > has > > > > done this mod before and is fully familiar with it. This guy has a > > history > > > > of jeeps including racing sand jeeps. He's the best I could find in > > this > > > > area for this application. > > > > > > > > And > > > > > > > > He warranties the work for a year. > > > > > > > > He confirmed that it would be no problem for #1 (mechanic) to change > the > > > > bolts so if he's wrong he'll have to fix it if it comes down to it. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:409FD597.39970CF5@sympatico.ca... > > > > > He already has a mis match on the head gasket Steve. > > > > > > > > > > He is putting a 4.0 head onto a 4.2 block. That makes it a > 'twitchy' > > > > > installation to start. > > > > > > > > > > 'I' would not take a chance on blowing a new engine for something > that > > > > > dumb. > > > > > > > > > > Maybe that is just me, but.... If I forked out in the order of $2K > > plus > > > > > I most certainly would not take a chance on a head gasket that > 'might > > or > > > > > might not' be compromised. > > > > > > > > > > I have assembled and have seen assembled a whole pile of engines > over > > > > > the years and most people, let alone 'mechanics' stop and think when > > > > > they find 2 head bolts that are nutted studs instead of bolts. > > > > > > > > > > It seem 'logical' that these 'strange' bolt like things should go > > > > > somewhere special eh? > > > > > > > > > > One is for the bracket, the other goes on the back drivers side > corner > > > > > for the ground strap to bolt onto. > > > > > > > > > > In all due fairness poor Bill's 'mechanic' is kinda on the brain > dead > > > > > side to just put it together wrong without checking wouldn't you > say? > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Steve G wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I've done it hundreds of times and there won't be a problem > > switching > > > > the > > > > > > bolts and just re-torquing those two. In all probability it's one > of > > the > > > > > > outside bolts which are the last to be torqued in the sequence > > anyways. > > > > > > > > > > > > In all fairness to the mechanic Mike, these guys have no way of > > knowing > > > > > > which bolt is supposed to have the stud on it and different > > > > installations > > > > > > sometimes have different positions for that bolt. May not be the > > case > > > > with > > > > > > all 4.0, although I doubt that they all come the same way in all > > > > > > applications. I know for a fact lots of Pontiac, Buick and Olds > > v-8's > > > > would > > > > > > have the head bolts with the stud on it in different locations > > depending > > > > on > > > > > > what model vehicle it was going in and the assembler would have no > > way > > > > of > > > > > > knowing. > > > > > > Steve G. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > > > news:409FC445.928E9186@sympatico.ca... > > > > > > > I don't know where some of these 'mechanics' come from.... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > He put the 'wrong' bolt in the hole..... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Man oh man, if it wasn't for bad you wouldn't have any luck at > all > > > > would > > > > > > > you? > > > > > > > ;-) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I for one most certainly would not accept a rebuilt engine with > an > > > > > > > already 'blown' head gasket. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Head gaskets only compress once. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Just had my engine rebuilt. New cam, new crank 10/10, new > > bearings, > > > > new > > > > > > > > pistons and rings, flywheel balanced and all married up to my > > 4.0L > > > > head > > > > > > out > > > > > > > > the door. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Now the R&R guy has noticed one of the head bolts is out of > > position > > > > for > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > power steering bracket so he needs to switch them. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is there any problem switching two head bolts which reside > side > > by > > > > side > > > > > > > > without going through the entire torquing sequence again? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > That is, can these two bolts be taking out, switched, put back > > in > > > > and > > > > > > > > torqued down without any problems? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > R&R guy says no problem. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > |
Re: Switching Head bolts
I have seen that head gasket separation too many times....
I used to run a 1275 CC block with an 1100 cc head on it for the compression boost from the smaller dome with the same sized valves in an old Mini and that had a mis matched gasket like Bill's does. I ran it fast sometimes, LOL, radar clocked at 132.4 mph and it was a 'real' bugger to keep a head gasket in it. (loved to top out the 'hot rod' 1/4 mile Camaros and Vettes as I hit 4th at 104 mph @ 5000 rpm or so and waved as I went by) My buddy and I had a head gasket swap down to 30 minutes.... The British Leyland dealer thought they had a bad batch of gaskets until they called me in for a 'free' check of my 'built' engine that a Mini guru they know well made... It broke the first compression gauge, popped the pin off. The starter would barely turn it over and it was a 'thumper' for idle with a 2 1/2" straight pipe and glass pack. I don't think Bill wants to get that good at swapping head gaskets unless he had the benefits I had.... Mike c wrote: > > I just have to add my 2 cents here Bill. I hope to heck that whatever they > do to fix the bolt problem works out for you. Things like this make me glad > that I rebuild my own stuff. Anyway, for what you paid for the rebuild, I > would insist that they change the head gasket. I don't know what type of > gasket they used, but some of them form quite a bond to the head and block > surfaces, so relaxing the bolt torque could cause the gasket layers to > separate slightly. Then it becomes leak time. Like Mike said, since there > were different types of bolts for the heads, the guy should have at least > asked you where the special bracket bolt belonged, unless he knew for sure > (which he didn't). The second thing here that would raise a red flag is the > fact that the rebuilder didn't insist on changing the gasket after his oops. > I rebuild engines in my own shop and would never risk that. Is he going to > do all the labor and reimburse you for your car rental, towing, etc. if the > gasket fails? If not, I would insist he change the gasket. The gasket is > probably about $40 at most, and and hour or two of his time to do it right. > IMHO, this sounds like poor quality work. > > Chris > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2ga6scFhuirU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Ha ha.... I'm getting to know you well Mike. After the last post that I > > knew you'd have that reply as I was thinking I'd have the same reply. :-) > > > > Thanks for the Devil's Advocate. I certainly hope my 'luck' doesn't fall > > into the 'bad' category from here out. I'm already shot to my bones with > > nerves on this one. > > > > Come on housing crash so I can afford my own garage :-) > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:409FE117.73D0C0AD@sympatico.ca... > > > I just like to play the devil's advocate some days Bill, I hope it works > > > out great for you. > > > > > > Still, not knowing where the freaking bolts go sure doesn't instill > > > confidence in the statement 'I choose him because he has done this mod > > > before and is fully familiar with it.' > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > Mike, the mechanic didn't put the thing together. The > rebuilder/machine > > > > shop did. They did the rebuild on the short block and put my > previously > > > > machined 4.0L head on it. > > > > > > > > There are two entities in this process. 1. the R&R guy, you can call > > him a > > > > mechanic. 2. The Machine Shop/Rebuilder. > > > > > > > > #2 is the one who bolted the thing together and I choose him because > he > > has > > > > done this mod before and is fully familiar with it. This guy has a > > history > > > > of jeeps including racing sand jeeps. He's the best I could find in > > this > > > > area for this application. > > > > > > > > And > > > > > > > > He warranties the work for a year. > > > > > > > > He confirmed that it would be no problem for #1 (mechanic) to change > the > > > > bolts so if he's wrong he'll have to fix it if it comes down to it. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:409FD597.39970CF5@sympatico.ca... > > > > > He already has a mis match on the head gasket Steve. > > > > > > > > > > He is putting a 4.0 head onto a 4.2 block. That makes it a > 'twitchy' > > > > > installation to start. > > > > > > > > > > 'I' would not take a chance on blowing a new engine for something > that > > > > > dumb. > > > > > > > > > > Maybe that is just me, but.... If I forked out in the order of $2K > > plus > > > > > I most certainly would not take a chance on a head gasket that > 'might > > or > > > > > might not' be compromised. > > > > > > > > > > I have assembled and have seen assembled a whole pile of engines > over > > > > > the years and most people, let alone 'mechanics' stop and think when > > > > > they find 2 head bolts that are nutted studs instead of bolts. > > > > > > > > > > It seem 'logical' that these 'strange' bolt like things should go > > > > > somewhere special eh? > > > > > > > > > > One is for the bracket, the other goes on the back drivers side > corner > > > > > for the ground strap to bolt onto. > > > > > > > > > > In all due fairness poor Bill's 'mechanic' is kinda on the brain > dead > > > > > side to just put it together wrong without checking wouldn't you > say? > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Steve G wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I've done it hundreds of times and there won't be a problem > > switching > > > > the > > > > > > bolts and just re-torquing those two. In all probability it's one > of > > the > > > > > > outside bolts which are the last to be torqued in the sequence > > anyways. > > > > > > > > > > > > In all fairness to the mechanic Mike, these guys have no way of > > knowing > > > > > > which bolt is supposed to have the stud on it and different > > > > installations > > > > > > sometimes have different positions for that bolt. May not be the > > case > > > > with > > > > > > all 4.0, although I doubt that they all come the same way in all > > > > > > applications. I know for a fact lots of Pontiac, Buick and Olds > > v-8's > > > > would > > > > > > have the head bolts with the stud on it in different locations > > depending > > > > on > > > > > > what model vehicle it was going in and the assembler would have no > > way > > > > of > > > > > > knowing. > > > > > > Steve G. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > > > news:409FC445.928E9186@sympatico.ca... > > > > > > > I don't know where some of these 'mechanics' come from.... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > He put the 'wrong' bolt in the hole..... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Man oh man, if it wasn't for bad you wouldn't have any luck at > all > > > > would > > > > > > > you? > > > > > > > ;-) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I for one most certainly would not accept a rebuilt engine with > an > > > > > > > already 'blown' head gasket. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Head gaskets only compress once. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Just had my engine rebuilt. New cam, new crank 10/10, new > > bearings, > > > > new > > > > > > > > pistons and rings, flywheel balanced and all married up to my > > 4.0L > > > > head > > > > > > out > > > > > > > > the door. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Now the R&R guy has noticed one of the head bolts is out of > > position > > > > for > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > power steering bracket so he needs to switch them. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is there any problem switching two head bolts which reside > side > > by > > > > side > > > > > > > > without going through the entire torquing sequence again? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > That is, can these two bolts be taking out, switched, put back > > in > > > > and > > > > > > > > torqued down without any problems? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > R&R guy says no problem. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > |
Re: Switching Head bolts
Well let me just say that you guys are giving me a big fat knot in my
stomach. :-). As I mentioned before, I did a lot of leg work in this area to find a good shop for R&R and machine and Chris thinks I paid way too much for the rebuild. Sounds like I just need to move the heck out of this state. Hopefully I have a jeep at the end of all this otherwise I'll push it into a crater somewhere or blow the thing up. Bill "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:40A00749.413F24BB@sympatico.ca... > I have seen that head gasket separation too many times.... > > I used to run a 1275 CC block with an 1100 cc head on it for the > compression boost from the smaller dome with the same sized valves in an > old Mini and that had a mis matched gasket like Bill's does. > > I ran it fast sometimes, LOL, radar clocked at 132.4 mph and it was a > 'real' bugger to keep a head gasket in it. (loved to top out the 'hot > rod' 1/4 mile Camaros and Vettes as I hit 4th at 104 mph @ 5000 rpm or > so and waved as I went by) > > My buddy and I had a head gasket swap down to 30 minutes.... > > The British Leyland dealer thought they had a bad batch of gaskets until > they called me in for a 'free' check of my 'built' engine that a Mini > guru they know well made... It broke the first compression gauge, > popped the pin off. > > The starter would barely turn it over and it was a 'thumper' for idle > with a 2 1/2" straight pipe and glass pack. > > I don't think Bill wants to get that good at swapping head gaskets > unless he had the benefits I had.... > > Mike > > c wrote: > > > > I just have to add my 2 cents here Bill. I hope to heck that whatever they > > do to fix the bolt problem works out for you. Things like this make me glad > > that I rebuild my own stuff. Anyway, for what you paid for the rebuild, I > > would insist that they change the head gasket. I don't know what type of > > gasket they used, but some of them form quite a bond to the head and block > > surfaces, so relaxing the bolt torque could cause the gasket layers to > > separate slightly. Then it becomes leak time. Like Mike said, since there > > were different types of bolts for the heads, the guy should have at least > > asked you where the special bracket bolt belonged, unless he knew for sure > > (which he didn't). The second thing here that would raise a red flag is the > > fact that the rebuilder didn't insist on changing the gasket after his oops. > > I rebuild engines in my own shop and would never risk that. Is he going to > > do all the labor and reimburse you for your car rental, towing, etc. if the > > gasket fails? If not, I would insist he change the gasket. The gasket is > > probably about $40 at most, and and hour or two of his time to do it right. > > IMHO, this sounds like poor quality work. > > > > Chris > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > > news:2ga6scFhuirU1@uni-berlin.de... > > > Ha ha.... I'm getting to know you well Mike. After the last post that I > > > knew you'd have that reply as I was thinking I'd have the same reply. :-) > > > > > > Thanks for the Devil's Advocate. I certainly hope my 'luck' doesn't fall > > > into the 'bad' category from here out. I'm already shot to my bones with > > > nerves on this one. > > > > > > Come on housing crash so I can afford my own garage :-) > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:409FE117.73D0C0AD@sympatico.ca... > > > > I just like to play the devil's advocate some days Bill, I hope it works > > > > out great for you. > > > > > > > > Still, not knowing where the freaking bolts go sure doesn't instill > > > > confidence in the statement 'I choose him because he has done this mod > > > > before and is fully familiar with it.' > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Mike, the mechanic didn't put the thing together. The > > rebuilder/machine > > > > > shop did. They did the rebuild on the short block and put my > > previously > > > > > machined 4.0L head on it. > > > > > > > > > > There are two entities in this process. 1. the R&R guy, you can call > > > him a > > > > > mechanic. 2. The Machine Shop/Rebuilder. > > > > > > > > > > #2 is the one who bolted the thing together and I choose him because > > he > > > has > > > > > done this mod before and is fully familiar with it. This guy has a > > > history > > > > > of jeeps including racing sand jeeps. He's the best I could find in > > > this > > > > > area for this application. > > > > > > > > > > And > > > > > > > > > > He warranties the work for a year. > > > > > > > > > > He confirmed that it would be no problem for #1 (mechanic) to change > > the > > > > > bolts so if he's wrong he'll have to fix it if it comes down to it. > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > > news:409FD597.39970CF5@sympatico.ca... > > > > > > He already has a mis match on the head gasket Steve. > > > > > > > > > > > > He is putting a 4.0 head onto a 4.2 block. That makes it a > > 'twitchy' > > > > > > installation to start. > > > > > > > > > > > > 'I' would not take a chance on blowing a new engine for something > > that > > > > > > dumb. > > > > > > > > > > > > Maybe that is just me, but.... If I forked out in the order of $2K > > > plus > > > > > > I most certainly would not take a chance on a head gasket that > > 'might > > > or > > > > > > might not' be compromised. > > > > > > > > > > > > I have assembled and have seen assembled a whole pile of engines > > over > > > > > > the years and most people, let alone 'mechanics' stop and think when > > > > > > they find 2 head bolts that are nutted studs instead of bolts. > > > > > > > > > > > > It seem 'logical' that these 'strange' bolt like things should go > > > > > > somewhere special eh? > > > > > > > > > > > > One is for the bracket, the other goes on the back drivers side > > corner > > > > > > for the ground strap to bolt onto. > > > > > > > > > > > > In all due fairness poor Bill's 'mechanic' is kinda on the brain > > dead > > > > > > side to just put it together wrong without checking wouldn't you > > say? > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > > > Steve G wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I've done it hundreds of times and there won't be a problem > > > switching > > > > > the > > > > > > > bolts and just re-torquing those two. In all probability it's one > > of > > > the > > > > > > > outside bolts which are the last to be torqued in the sequence > > > anyways. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > In all fairness to the mechanic Mike, these guys have no way of > > > knowing > > > > > > > which bolt is supposed to have the stud on it and different > > > > > installations > > > > > > > sometimes have different positions for that bolt. May not be the > > > case > > > > > with > > > > > > > all 4.0, although I doubt that they all come the same way in all > > > > > > > applications. I know for a fact lots of Pontiac, Buick and Olds > > > v-8's > > > > > would > > > > > > > have the head bolts with the stud on it in different locations > > > depending > > > > > on > > > > > > > what model vehicle it was going in and the assembler would have no > > > way > > > > > of > > > > > > > knowing. > > > > > > > Steve G. > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > > > > news:409FC445.928E9186@sympatico.ca... > > > > > > > > I don't know where some of these 'mechanics' come from.... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > He put the 'wrong' bolt in the hole..... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Man oh man, if it wasn't for bad you wouldn't have any luck at > > all > > > > > would > > > > > > > > you? > > > > > > > > ;-) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I for one most certainly would not accept a rebuilt engine with > > an > > > > > > > > already 'blown' head gasket. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Head gaskets only compress once. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Just had my engine rebuilt. New cam, new crank 10/10, new > > > bearings, > > > > > new > > > > > > > > > pistons and rings, flywheel balanced and all married up to my > > > 4.0L > > > > > head > > > > > > > out > > > > > > > > > the door. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Now the R&R guy has noticed one of the head bolts is out of > > > position > > > > > for > > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > > power steering bracket so he needs to switch them. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is there any problem switching two head bolts which reside > > side > > > by > > > > > side > > > > > > > > > without going through the entire torquing sequence again? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > That is, can these two bolts be taking out, switched, put back > > > in > > > > > and > > > > > > > > > torqued down without any problems? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > R&R guy says no problem. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > |
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