Slip Yoke Eliminator
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Slip Yoke Eliminator
Seeing as I JUST did this mod, I have fresh on my mind some tips for
you. First, the kit I chose. I bought the Advanced Adapters SYE and
Tom Wood DS from mad4wd.com. The guy there was extremely pleasant and
helpful. We talked about the conversion for a good 15 minutes before I
ordered it. He told me what tools I would need, and just talked with
me about what was involved in the install. He also told me to feel
free to call him if I had any trouble during the install. I was very
happy with his manner; that is the kind of customer service and
treatment that deserves repeat business.
I chose the AA kit because of the higher strength claim. I chose the
AA over the JB because the AA DOES NOT require the use of a press when
being used to convert a TJ (AA kit does not use needle bearings, nor
does the stock shaft in a TJ. YJs, though, do have needle bearings,
and they would need to be pressed off the old shaft during the
install). I don't have a press, so that was key. I didn't like the
idea of the RE hackntap kit, because even if it's just as strong
....when done perfectly... I didn't feel 100% confident that I'd be
able to maintain a perfectly straight cut and perfectly drill and tap
that hole, balanced, when doing an install.
The stuff arrived a couple weeks ago. I went to my friend's place, and
began the install in his garage. First, one of the stupid nuts welded
inside the frame that holds the bolts for the t-case skid plate had
broken loose of the weld. Lovely. I just hacksawed through the spacer
and the bolt (I had a 1" drop kit on the t-case at the time). I don't
cut or weld, so I later took the jeep to a shop to get this nut
problem fixed (after finishing the install).
Of course, make sure you jack up that tranny to support it, and set it
on a jack stand.
Get a GOOD, large, strong set of snap ring pliers. You need to make
sure to get one of the outer diameter snap ring pliers with little
paddles on the end (not pins)...look like needle-nose pliers that had
the ends put in a vice. You also need to get a set of inner diameter
snap ring pliers. The snap rings suck, just be ready for that.
When you get the t-case split in half, and you take that magnet out of
the bottom to clean the metal shavings off of it, be EXTREMELY careful
not to drop it. I was laying under my jeep, no more than 8 or 10
inches from the ground, and the magnet slipped out of my towel.
SHATTER! Damn. Just be careful. It's hard to find a magnet of the
right size to replace this one. I ended up having to wait until Monday
and get one from a local 4wd shop.
BE CAREFUL WITH THAT OIL PUMP. It is somewhat delicate. When putting
the case back together, I didn't get things lined up just right, and
when I tried to jiggle things into place, the hole in the pump where
the pickup tube enters cracked. The pickup tube wouldn't stay in place
anymore. I had to get a new one. Got it locally for 66 bucks. If you
do end up damaging your pump and needing to replace it, it IS the part
listed on some sites for around 50 bucks labled as a "Oil Pump Housing
and Seal" for the NP231 transfer case.
Make sure, at all times during the reassembly process, that you can
still turn the output shaft freely. I put my transmission into
neutral, and during the process, to make sure nothing ever slipped out
of place (my mainshaft did slip out of a bearing at one point, which
led to my breaking of the oil pump), I just turned the mainshaft every
once in awhile, making sure it wasn't jammed. I also had the t-case in
4low at that point, so I could also verify the chain was seated
properly (not necessary, really...its obvious if the chain is seated
or not), and watched as the front output shaft turned while I turned
the rear output/main shaft.
One more note: use the red RTV. That black ---- is gross. I tried some
of the black "sensor safe, high temp" style in a caulking gun
form-factor. I got it everywhere. I used a bit too much, but the
application method was part of the problem. If you do get a
caulk-application style one, make sure to cut the opening in the
applicator tip AS SMALL AS POSSIBLE so you don't have the problems I
did. I ended up giving up on that RTV, and going to this red RTV that
was in an easy-cheese style aerosol can. Just tip the applicator tip
to the side, and ------ with ease. That was MUCH nicer. Additionally,
the red stuff is thicker, and doesn't get all goopy and everywhere. It
took awhile cleaning that black crap off my hands and arms. UGH.
Finally, don't do this alone. I NEEDED (sure others might not, but I
DID) ALL FOUR HANDS I had at my disposal (mine and my friend's) for
reattaching the rear case half to the jeep. And the additional hands
definitely helped for other things, though they weren't as absolutely
necessary as they were when putting the case halves back together.
Oh yeah, in case I didn't mention, I did this install with the case
still on the vehicle. There are varying opinions on whether it is
easier to do the install with the case attached, or to first remove
the case from the tranny. I took the on-the-vehicle route, because I
have 4" of suspension lift and plenty of room to work under there, and
I wanted to reduce the chance of messing anything more than absolutely
necessary up during my install. I'm not a clutz (well, I am a
little...I dropped that magnet and broke that oil pump), but I figure,
don't go any deeper than necessary, and reduce the chance, however
minimal, of f'ing up any other parts of my drivetrain. After all, I've
never touched a transmission or t-case before, anyway. I also don't
have a good work bench, so I wouldn't have had a good place to work on
a fully removed t-case.
Well, I hope that helps. I know it was wordy, but I wanted to make
sure I mentioned all the pitfalls I encountered, to ensure you can
better avoid my mistakes, and have a good install experience. Even
with the problems I had, I feel the install was relatively easy, and
definitely worth it. I still saved money over paying someone else to
do it, I learned first-hand what is in my t-case workings, and how it
works, and I learned that the innards of the t-case are not actually
that scary or intimidating as one might imagine.
Now, since you have a YJ, you may not get away without having to have
a press, regardless of whether you choose the JB or AA kit. You'll
have to deal with that when the time comes.
As for the drive shaft, I would definitely recommend the CV shaft. CV
at the output of the t-case, and U-Joint at the Pinion. You need to
point the pinion up at the CV joint, as others have already mentioned
in this thread. I chose to get a set of adjustable lower control arms
(~$225 locally). And, anyone reading this and thinking about working
on their TJ, you will need to get these little bolt-on things that
extend your shock perches back further, so that when you rotate the
pinion and axle up, your shock won't get dented by your lower coil
spring perch. This probably isn't as much, if any, of a concern for
the YJ owners.
My TJ also has 4" of lift, and I had driven it that way for a little
over a year with the stock rear driveshaft and slip yoke. It was
starting vibrate in the last couple months, and I knew it was time.
Good luck with whatever you decide. And have fun. It can get messy
down there if you're like me and this is the most difficult vehicle
mod you've attempted, but if you're just patient and pay attention,
and DON'T FORCE, you'll learn alot, and have fun working on your car
at the same time.
/Bob
"belowme" <dontbotherme@nospam.com> wrote in message news:<3fa1b4b0_2@newspeer2.tds.net>...
> What is the popular opinion about slip yoke eliminators? Do you folks have
> favorite manufacturer's, or good or bad things to say about them? I am
> considering one for my YJ, it is at 4" of lift with 35" tires, and it is
> time to do it. Thanks for your advice.
>
>
> Jerry
you. First, the kit I chose. I bought the Advanced Adapters SYE and
Tom Wood DS from mad4wd.com. The guy there was extremely pleasant and
helpful. We talked about the conversion for a good 15 minutes before I
ordered it. He told me what tools I would need, and just talked with
me about what was involved in the install. He also told me to feel
free to call him if I had any trouble during the install. I was very
happy with his manner; that is the kind of customer service and
treatment that deserves repeat business.
I chose the AA kit because of the higher strength claim. I chose the
AA over the JB because the AA DOES NOT require the use of a press when
being used to convert a TJ (AA kit does not use needle bearings, nor
does the stock shaft in a TJ. YJs, though, do have needle bearings,
and they would need to be pressed off the old shaft during the
install). I don't have a press, so that was key. I didn't like the
idea of the RE hackntap kit, because even if it's just as strong
....when done perfectly... I didn't feel 100% confident that I'd be
able to maintain a perfectly straight cut and perfectly drill and tap
that hole, balanced, when doing an install.
The stuff arrived a couple weeks ago. I went to my friend's place, and
began the install in his garage. First, one of the stupid nuts welded
inside the frame that holds the bolts for the t-case skid plate had
broken loose of the weld. Lovely. I just hacksawed through the spacer
and the bolt (I had a 1" drop kit on the t-case at the time). I don't
cut or weld, so I later took the jeep to a shop to get this nut
problem fixed (after finishing the install).
Of course, make sure you jack up that tranny to support it, and set it
on a jack stand.
Get a GOOD, large, strong set of snap ring pliers. You need to make
sure to get one of the outer diameter snap ring pliers with little
paddles on the end (not pins)...look like needle-nose pliers that had
the ends put in a vice. You also need to get a set of inner diameter
snap ring pliers. The snap rings suck, just be ready for that.
When you get the t-case split in half, and you take that magnet out of
the bottom to clean the metal shavings off of it, be EXTREMELY careful
not to drop it. I was laying under my jeep, no more than 8 or 10
inches from the ground, and the magnet slipped out of my towel.
SHATTER! Damn. Just be careful. It's hard to find a magnet of the
right size to replace this one. I ended up having to wait until Monday
and get one from a local 4wd shop.
BE CAREFUL WITH THAT OIL PUMP. It is somewhat delicate. When putting
the case back together, I didn't get things lined up just right, and
when I tried to jiggle things into place, the hole in the pump where
the pickup tube enters cracked. The pickup tube wouldn't stay in place
anymore. I had to get a new one. Got it locally for 66 bucks. If you
do end up damaging your pump and needing to replace it, it IS the part
listed on some sites for around 50 bucks labled as a "Oil Pump Housing
and Seal" for the NP231 transfer case.
Make sure, at all times during the reassembly process, that you can
still turn the output shaft freely. I put my transmission into
neutral, and during the process, to make sure nothing ever slipped out
of place (my mainshaft did slip out of a bearing at one point, which
led to my breaking of the oil pump), I just turned the mainshaft every
once in awhile, making sure it wasn't jammed. I also had the t-case in
4low at that point, so I could also verify the chain was seated
properly (not necessary, really...its obvious if the chain is seated
or not), and watched as the front output shaft turned while I turned
the rear output/main shaft.
One more note: use the red RTV. That black ---- is gross. I tried some
of the black "sensor safe, high temp" style in a caulking gun
form-factor. I got it everywhere. I used a bit too much, but the
application method was part of the problem. If you do get a
caulk-application style one, make sure to cut the opening in the
applicator tip AS SMALL AS POSSIBLE so you don't have the problems I
did. I ended up giving up on that RTV, and going to this red RTV that
was in an easy-cheese style aerosol can. Just tip the applicator tip
to the side, and ------ with ease. That was MUCH nicer. Additionally,
the red stuff is thicker, and doesn't get all goopy and everywhere. It
took awhile cleaning that black crap off my hands and arms. UGH.
Finally, don't do this alone. I NEEDED (sure others might not, but I
DID) ALL FOUR HANDS I had at my disposal (mine and my friend's) for
reattaching the rear case half to the jeep. And the additional hands
definitely helped for other things, though they weren't as absolutely
necessary as they were when putting the case halves back together.
Oh yeah, in case I didn't mention, I did this install with the case
still on the vehicle. There are varying opinions on whether it is
easier to do the install with the case attached, or to first remove
the case from the tranny. I took the on-the-vehicle route, because I
have 4" of suspension lift and plenty of room to work under there, and
I wanted to reduce the chance of messing anything more than absolutely
necessary up during my install. I'm not a clutz (well, I am a
little...I dropped that magnet and broke that oil pump), but I figure,
don't go any deeper than necessary, and reduce the chance, however
minimal, of f'ing up any other parts of my drivetrain. After all, I've
never touched a transmission or t-case before, anyway. I also don't
have a good work bench, so I wouldn't have had a good place to work on
a fully removed t-case.
Well, I hope that helps. I know it was wordy, but I wanted to make
sure I mentioned all the pitfalls I encountered, to ensure you can
better avoid my mistakes, and have a good install experience. Even
with the problems I had, I feel the install was relatively easy, and
definitely worth it. I still saved money over paying someone else to
do it, I learned first-hand what is in my t-case workings, and how it
works, and I learned that the innards of the t-case are not actually
that scary or intimidating as one might imagine.
Now, since you have a YJ, you may not get away without having to have
a press, regardless of whether you choose the JB or AA kit. You'll
have to deal with that when the time comes.
As for the drive shaft, I would definitely recommend the CV shaft. CV
at the output of the t-case, and U-Joint at the Pinion. You need to
point the pinion up at the CV joint, as others have already mentioned
in this thread. I chose to get a set of adjustable lower control arms
(~$225 locally). And, anyone reading this and thinking about working
on their TJ, you will need to get these little bolt-on things that
extend your shock perches back further, so that when you rotate the
pinion and axle up, your shock won't get dented by your lower coil
spring perch. This probably isn't as much, if any, of a concern for
the YJ owners.
My TJ also has 4" of lift, and I had driven it that way for a little
over a year with the stock rear driveshaft and slip yoke. It was
starting vibrate in the last couple months, and I knew it was time.
Good luck with whatever you decide. And have fun. It can get messy
down there if you're like me and this is the most difficult vehicle
mod you've attempted, but if you're just patient and pay attention,
and DON'T FORCE, you'll learn alot, and have fun working on your car
at the same time.
/Bob
"belowme" <dontbotherme@nospam.com> wrote in message news:<3fa1b4b0_2@newspeer2.tds.net>...
> What is the popular opinion about slip yoke eliminators? Do you folks have
> favorite manufacturer's, or good or bad things to say about them? I am
> considering one for my YJ, it is at 4" of lift with 35" tires, and it is
> time to do it. Thanks for your advice.
>
>
> Jerry
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Slip Yoke Eliminator
Seeing as I JUST did this mod, I have fresh on my mind some tips for
you. First, the kit I chose. I bought the Advanced Adapters SYE and
Tom Wood DS from mad4wd.com. The guy there was extremely pleasant and
helpful. We talked about the conversion for a good 15 minutes before I
ordered it. He told me what tools I would need, and just talked with
me about what was involved in the install. He also told me to feel
free to call him if I had any trouble during the install. I was very
happy with his manner; that is the kind of customer service and
treatment that deserves repeat business.
I chose the AA kit because of the higher strength claim. I chose the
AA over the JB because the AA DOES NOT require the use of a press when
being used to convert a TJ (AA kit does not use needle bearings, nor
does the stock shaft in a TJ. YJs, though, do have needle bearings,
and they would need to be pressed off the old shaft during the
install). I don't have a press, so that was key. I didn't like the
idea of the RE hackntap kit, because even if it's just as strong
....when done perfectly... I didn't feel 100% confident that I'd be
able to maintain a perfectly straight cut and perfectly drill and tap
that hole, balanced, when doing an install.
The stuff arrived a couple weeks ago. I went to my friend's place, and
began the install in his garage. First, one of the stupid nuts welded
inside the frame that holds the bolts for the t-case skid plate had
broken loose of the weld. Lovely. I just hacksawed through the spacer
and the bolt (I had a 1" drop kit on the t-case at the time). I don't
cut or weld, so I later took the jeep to a shop to get this nut
problem fixed (after finishing the install).
Of course, make sure you jack up that tranny to support it, and set it
on a jack stand.
Get a GOOD, large, strong set of snap ring pliers. You need to make
sure to get one of the outer diameter snap ring pliers with little
paddles on the end (not pins)...look like needle-nose pliers that had
the ends put in a vice. You also need to get a set of inner diameter
snap ring pliers. The snap rings suck, just be ready for that.
When you get the t-case split in half, and you take that magnet out of
the bottom to clean the metal shavings off of it, be EXTREMELY careful
not to drop it. I was laying under my jeep, no more than 8 or 10
inches from the ground, and the magnet slipped out of my towel.
SHATTER! Damn. Just be careful. It's hard to find a magnet of the
right size to replace this one. I ended up having to wait until Monday
and get one from a local 4wd shop.
BE CAREFUL WITH THAT OIL PUMP. It is somewhat delicate. When putting
the case back together, I didn't get things lined up just right, and
when I tried to jiggle things into place, the hole in the pump where
the pickup tube enters cracked. The pickup tube wouldn't stay in place
anymore. I had to get a new one. Got it locally for 66 bucks. If you
do end up damaging your pump and needing to replace it, it IS the part
listed on some sites for around 50 bucks labled as a "Oil Pump Housing
and Seal" for the NP231 transfer case.
Make sure, at all times during the reassembly process, that you can
still turn the output shaft freely. I put my transmission into
neutral, and during the process, to make sure nothing ever slipped out
of place (my mainshaft did slip out of a bearing at one point, which
led to my breaking of the oil pump), I just turned the mainshaft every
once in awhile, making sure it wasn't jammed. I also had the t-case in
4low at that point, so I could also verify the chain was seated
properly (not necessary, really...its obvious if the chain is seated
or not), and watched as the front output shaft turned while I turned
the rear output/main shaft.
One more note: use the red RTV. That black ---- is gross. I tried some
of the black "sensor safe, high temp" style in a caulking gun
form-factor. I got it everywhere. I used a bit too much, but the
application method was part of the problem. If you do get a
caulk-application style one, make sure to cut the opening in the
applicator tip AS SMALL AS POSSIBLE so you don't have the problems I
did. I ended up giving up on that RTV, and going to this red RTV that
was in an easy-cheese style aerosol can. Just tip the applicator tip
to the side, and ------ with ease. That was MUCH nicer. Additionally,
the red stuff is thicker, and doesn't get all goopy and everywhere. It
took awhile cleaning that black crap off my hands and arms. UGH.
Finally, don't do this alone. I NEEDED (sure others might not, but I
DID) ALL FOUR HANDS I had at my disposal (mine and my friend's) for
reattaching the rear case half to the jeep. And the additional hands
definitely helped for other things, though they weren't as absolutely
necessary as they were when putting the case halves back together.
Oh yeah, in case I didn't mention, I did this install with the case
still on the vehicle. There are varying opinions on whether it is
easier to do the install with the case attached, or to first remove
the case from the tranny. I took the on-the-vehicle route, because I
have 4" of suspension lift and plenty of room to work under there, and
I wanted to reduce the chance of messing anything more than absolutely
necessary up during my install. I'm not a clutz (well, I am a
little...I dropped that magnet and broke that oil pump), but I figure,
don't go any deeper than necessary, and reduce the chance, however
minimal, of f'ing up any other parts of my drivetrain. After all, I've
never touched a transmission or t-case before, anyway. I also don't
have a good work bench, so I wouldn't have had a good place to work on
a fully removed t-case.
Well, I hope that helps. I know it was wordy, but I wanted to make
sure I mentioned all the pitfalls I encountered, to ensure you can
better avoid my mistakes, and have a good install experience. Even
with the problems I had, I feel the install was relatively easy, and
definitely worth it. I still saved money over paying someone else to
do it, I learned first-hand what is in my t-case workings, and how it
works, and I learned that the innards of the t-case are not actually
that scary or intimidating as one might imagine.
Now, since you have a YJ, you may not get away without having to have
a press, regardless of whether you choose the JB or AA kit. You'll
have to deal with that when the time comes.
As for the drive shaft, I would definitely recommend the CV shaft. CV
at the output of the t-case, and U-Joint at the Pinion. You need to
point the pinion up at the CV joint, as others have already mentioned
in this thread. I chose to get a set of adjustable lower control arms
(~$225 locally). And, anyone reading this and thinking about working
on their TJ, you will need to get these little bolt-on things that
extend your shock perches back further, so that when you rotate the
pinion and axle up, your shock won't get dented by your lower coil
spring perch. This probably isn't as much, if any, of a concern for
the YJ owners.
My TJ also has 4" of lift, and I had driven it that way for a little
over a year with the stock rear driveshaft and slip yoke. It was
starting vibrate in the last couple months, and I knew it was time.
Good luck with whatever you decide. And have fun. It can get messy
down there if you're like me and this is the most difficult vehicle
mod you've attempted, but if you're just patient and pay attention,
and DON'T FORCE, you'll learn alot, and have fun working on your car
at the same time.
/Bob
"belowme" <dontbotherme@nospam.com> wrote in message news:<3fa1b4b0_2@newspeer2.tds.net>...
> What is the popular opinion about slip yoke eliminators? Do you folks have
> favorite manufacturer's, or good or bad things to say about them? I am
> considering one for my YJ, it is at 4" of lift with 35" tires, and it is
> time to do it. Thanks for your advice.
>
>
> Jerry
you. First, the kit I chose. I bought the Advanced Adapters SYE and
Tom Wood DS from mad4wd.com. The guy there was extremely pleasant and
helpful. We talked about the conversion for a good 15 minutes before I
ordered it. He told me what tools I would need, and just talked with
me about what was involved in the install. He also told me to feel
free to call him if I had any trouble during the install. I was very
happy with his manner; that is the kind of customer service and
treatment that deserves repeat business.
I chose the AA kit because of the higher strength claim. I chose the
AA over the JB because the AA DOES NOT require the use of a press when
being used to convert a TJ (AA kit does not use needle bearings, nor
does the stock shaft in a TJ. YJs, though, do have needle bearings,
and they would need to be pressed off the old shaft during the
install). I don't have a press, so that was key. I didn't like the
idea of the RE hackntap kit, because even if it's just as strong
....when done perfectly... I didn't feel 100% confident that I'd be
able to maintain a perfectly straight cut and perfectly drill and tap
that hole, balanced, when doing an install.
The stuff arrived a couple weeks ago. I went to my friend's place, and
began the install in his garage. First, one of the stupid nuts welded
inside the frame that holds the bolts for the t-case skid plate had
broken loose of the weld. Lovely. I just hacksawed through the spacer
and the bolt (I had a 1" drop kit on the t-case at the time). I don't
cut or weld, so I later took the jeep to a shop to get this nut
problem fixed (after finishing the install).
Of course, make sure you jack up that tranny to support it, and set it
on a jack stand.
Get a GOOD, large, strong set of snap ring pliers. You need to make
sure to get one of the outer diameter snap ring pliers with little
paddles on the end (not pins)...look like needle-nose pliers that had
the ends put in a vice. You also need to get a set of inner diameter
snap ring pliers. The snap rings suck, just be ready for that.
When you get the t-case split in half, and you take that magnet out of
the bottom to clean the metal shavings off of it, be EXTREMELY careful
not to drop it. I was laying under my jeep, no more than 8 or 10
inches from the ground, and the magnet slipped out of my towel.
SHATTER! Damn. Just be careful. It's hard to find a magnet of the
right size to replace this one. I ended up having to wait until Monday
and get one from a local 4wd shop.
BE CAREFUL WITH THAT OIL PUMP. It is somewhat delicate. When putting
the case back together, I didn't get things lined up just right, and
when I tried to jiggle things into place, the hole in the pump where
the pickup tube enters cracked. The pickup tube wouldn't stay in place
anymore. I had to get a new one. Got it locally for 66 bucks. If you
do end up damaging your pump and needing to replace it, it IS the part
listed on some sites for around 50 bucks labled as a "Oil Pump Housing
and Seal" for the NP231 transfer case.
Make sure, at all times during the reassembly process, that you can
still turn the output shaft freely. I put my transmission into
neutral, and during the process, to make sure nothing ever slipped out
of place (my mainshaft did slip out of a bearing at one point, which
led to my breaking of the oil pump), I just turned the mainshaft every
once in awhile, making sure it wasn't jammed. I also had the t-case in
4low at that point, so I could also verify the chain was seated
properly (not necessary, really...its obvious if the chain is seated
or not), and watched as the front output shaft turned while I turned
the rear output/main shaft.
One more note: use the red RTV. That black ---- is gross. I tried some
of the black "sensor safe, high temp" style in a caulking gun
form-factor. I got it everywhere. I used a bit too much, but the
application method was part of the problem. If you do get a
caulk-application style one, make sure to cut the opening in the
applicator tip AS SMALL AS POSSIBLE so you don't have the problems I
did. I ended up giving up on that RTV, and going to this red RTV that
was in an easy-cheese style aerosol can. Just tip the applicator tip
to the side, and ------ with ease. That was MUCH nicer. Additionally,
the red stuff is thicker, and doesn't get all goopy and everywhere. It
took awhile cleaning that black crap off my hands and arms. UGH.
Finally, don't do this alone. I NEEDED (sure others might not, but I
DID) ALL FOUR HANDS I had at my disposal (mine and my friend's) for
reattaching the rear case half to the jeep. And the additional hands
definitely helped for other things, though they weren't as absolutely
necessary as they were when putting the case halves back together.
Oh yeah, in case I didn't mention, I did this install with the case
still on the vehicle. There are varying opinions on whether it is
easier to do the install with the case attached, or to first remove
the case from the tranny. I took the on-the-vehicle route, because I
have 4" of suspension lift and plenty of room to work under there, and
I wanted to reduce the chance of messing anything more than absolutely
necessary up during my install. I'm not a clutz (well, I am a
little...I dropped that magnet and broke that oil pump), but I figure,
don't go any deeper than necessary, and reduce the chance, however
minimal, of f'ing up any other parts of my drivetrain. After all, I've
never touched a transmission or t-case before, anyway. I also don't
have a good work bench, so I wouldn't have had a good place to work on
a fully removed t-case.
Well, I hope that helps. I know it was wordy, but I wanted to make
sure I mentioned all the pitfalls I encountered, to ensure you can
better avoid my mistakes, and have a good install experience. Even
with the problems I had, I feel the install was relatively easy, and
definitely worth it. I still saved money over paying someone else to
do it, I learned first-hand what is in my t-case workings, and how it
works, and I learned that the innards of the t-case are not actually
that scary or intimidating as one might imagine.
Now, since you have a YJ, you may not get away without having to have
a press, regardless of whether you choose the JB or AA kit. You'll
have to deal with that when the time comes.
As for the drive shaft, I would definitely recommend the CV shaft. CV
at the output of the t-case, and U-Joint at the Pinion. You need to
point the pinion up at the CV joint, as others have already mentioned
in this thread. I chose to get a set of adjustable lower control arms
(~$225 locally). And, anyone reading this and thinking about working
on their TJ, you will need to get these little bolt-on things that
extend your shock perches back further, so that when you rotate the
pinion and axle up, your shock won't get dented by your lower coil
spring perch. This probably isn't as much, if any, of a concern for
the YJ owners.
My TJ also has 4" of lift, and I had driven it that way for a little
over a year with the stock rear driveshaft and slip yoke. It was
starting vibrate in the last couple months, and I knew it was time.
Good luck with whatever you decide. And have fun. It can get messy
down there if you're like me and this is the most difficult vehicle
mod you've attempted, but if you're just patient and pay attention,
and DON'T FORCE, you'll learn alot, and have fun working on your car
at the same time.
/Bob
"belowme" <dontbotherme@nospam.com> wrote in message news:<3fa1b4b0_2@newspeer2.tds.net>...
> What is the popular opinion about slip yoke eliminators? Do you folks have
> favorite manufacturer's, or good or bad things to say about them? I am
> considering one for my YJ, it is at 4" of lift with 35" tires, and it is
> time to do it. Thanks for your advice.
>
>
> Jerry
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Slip Yoke Eliminator
Seeing as I JUST did this mod, I have fresh on my mind some tips for
you. First, the kit I chose. I bought the Advanced Adapters SYE and
Tom Wood DS from mad4wd.com. The guy there was extremely pleasant and
helpful. We talked about the conversion for a good 15 minutes before I
ordered it. He told me what tools I would need, and just talked with
me about what was involved in the install. He also told me to feel
free to call him if I had any trouble during the install. I was very
happy with his manner; that is the kind of customer service and
treatment that deserves repeat business.
I chose the AA kit because of the higher strength claim. I chose the
AA over the JB because the AA DOES NOT require the use of a press when
being used to convert a TJ (AA kit does not use needle bearings, nor
does the stock shaft in a TJ. YJs, though, do have needle bearings,
and they would need to be pressed off the old shaft during the
install). I don't have a press, so that was key. I didn't like the
idea of the RE hackntap kit, because even if it's just as strong
....when done perfectly... I didn't feel 100% confident that I'd be
able to maintain a perfectly straight cut and perfectly drill and tap
that hole, balanced, when doing an install.
The stuff arrived a couple weeks ago. I went to my friend's place, and
began the install in his garage. First, one of the stupid nuts welded
inside the frame that holds the bolts for the t-case skid plate had
broken loose of the weld. Lovely. I just hacksawed through the spacer
and the bolt (I had a 1" drop kit on the t-case at the time). I don't
cut or weld, so I later took the jeep to a shop to get this nut
problem fixed (after finishing the install).
Of course, make sure you jack up that tranny to support it, and set it
on a jack stand.
Get a GOOD, large, strong set of snap ring pliers. You need to make
sure to get one of the outer diameter snap ring pliers with little
paddles on the end (not pins)...look like needle-nose pliers that had
the ends put in a vice. You also need to get a set of inner diameter
snap ring pliers. The snap rings suck, just be ready for that.
When you get the t-case split in half, and you take that magnet out of
the bottom to clean the metal shavings off of it, be EXTREMELY careful
not to drop it. I was laying under my jeep, no more than 8 or 10
inches from the ground, and the magnet slipped out of my towel.
SHATTER! Damn. Just be careful. It's hard to find a magnet of the
right size to replace this one. I ended up having to wait until Monday
and get one from a local 4wd shop.
BE CAREFUL WITH THAT OIL PUMP. It is somewhat delicate. When putting
the case back together, I didn't get things lined up just right, and
when I tried to jiggle things into place, the hole in the pump where
the pickup tube enters cracked. The pickup tube wouldn't stay in place
anymore. I had to get a new one. Got it locally for 66 bucks. If you
do end up damaging your pump and needing to replace it, it IS the part
listed on some sites for around 50 bucks labled as a "Oil Pump Housing
and Seal" for the NP231 transfer case.
Make sure, at all times during the reassembly process, that you can
still turn the output shaft freely. I put my transmission into
neutral, and during the process, to make sure nothing ever slipped out
of place (my mainshaft did slip out of a bearing at one point, which
led to my breaking of the oil pump), I just turned the mainshaft every
once in awhile, making sure it wasn't jammed. I also had the t-case in
4low at that point, so I could also verify the chain was seated
properly (not necessary, really...its obvious if the chain is seated
or not), and watched as the front output shaft turned while I turned
the rear output/main shaft.
One more note: use the red RTV. That black ---- is gross. I tried some
of the black "sensor safe, high temp" style in a caulking gun
form-factor. I got it everywhere. I used a bit too much, but the
application method was part of the problem. If you do get a
caulk-application style one, make sure to cut the opening in the
applicator tip AS SMALL AS POSSIBLE so you don't have the problems I
did. I ended up giving up on that RTV, and going to this red RTV that
was in an easy-cheese style aerosol can. Just tip the applicator tip
to the side, and ------ with ease. That was MUCH nicer. Additionally,
the red stuff is thicker, and doesn't get all goopy and everywhere. It
took awhile cleaning that black crap off my hands and arms. UGH.
Finally, don't do this alone. I NEEDED (sure others might not, but I
DID) ALL FOUR HANDS I had at my disposal (mine and my friend's) for
reattaching the rear case half to the jeep. And the additional hands
definitely helped for other things, though they weren't as absolutely
necessary as they were when putting the case halves back together.
Oh yeah, in case I didn't mention, I did this install with the case
still on the vehicle. There are varying opinions on whether it is
easier to do the install with the case attached, or to first remove
the case from the tranny. I took the on-the-vehicle route, because I
have 4" of suspension lift and plenty of room to work under there, and
I wanted to reduce the chance of messing anything more than absolutely
necessary up during my install. I'm not a clutz (well, I am a
little...I dropped that magnet and broke that oil pump), but I figure,
don't go any deeper than necessary, and reduce the chance, however
minimal, of f'ing up any other parts of my drivetrain. After all, I've
never touched a transmission or t-case before, anyway. I also don't
have a good work bench, so I wouldn't have had a good place to work on
a fully removed t-case.
Well, I hope that helps. I know it was wordy, but I wanted to make
sure I mentioned all the pitfalls I encountered, to ensure you can
better avoid my mistakes, and have a good install experience. Even
with the problems I had, I feel the install was relatively easy, and
definitely worth it. I still saved money over paying someone else to
do it, I learned first-hand what is in my t-case workings, and how it
works, and I learned that the innards of the t-case are not actually
that scary or intimidating as one might imagine.
Now, since you have a YJ, you may not get away without having to have
a press, regardless of whether you choose the JB or AA kit. You'll
have to deal with that when the time comes.
As for the drive shaft, I would definitely recommend the CV shaft. CV
at the output of the t-case, and U-Joint at the Pinion. You need to
point the pinion up at the CV joint, as others have already mentioned
in this thread. I chose to get a set of adjustable lower control arms
(~$225 locally). And, anyone reading this and thinking about working
on their TJ, you will need to get these little bolt-on things that
extend your shock perches back further, so that when you rotate the
pinion and axle up, your shock won't get dented by your lower coil
spring perch. This probably isn't as much, if any, of a concern for
the YJ owners.
My TJ also has 4" of lift, and I had driven it that way for a little
over a year with the stock rear driveshaft and slip yoke. It was
starting vibrate in the last couple months, and I knew it was time.
Good luck with whatever you decide. And have fun. It can get messy
down there if you're like me and this is the most difficult vehicle
mod you've attempted, but if you're just patient and pay attention,
and DON'T FORCE, you'll learn alot, and have fun working on your car
at the same time.
/Bob
"belowme" <dontbotherme@nospam.com> wrote in message news:<3fa1b4b0_2@newspeer2.tds.net>...
> What is the popular opinion about slip yoke eliminators? Do you folks have
> favorite manufacturer's, or good or bad things to say about them? I am
> considering one for my YJ, it is at 4" of lift with 35" tires, and it is
> time to do it. Thanks for your advice.
>
>
> Jerry
you. First, the kit I chose. I bought the Advanced Adapters SYE and
Tom Wood DS from mad4wd.com. The guy there was extremely pleasant and
helpful. We talked about the conversion for a good 15 minutes before I
ordered it. He told me what tools I would need, and just talked with
me about what was involved in the install. He also told me to feel
free to call him if I had any trouble during the install. I was very
happy with his manner; that is the kind of customer service and
treatment that deserves repeat business.
I chose the AA kit because of the higher strength claim. I chose the
AA over the JB because the AA DOES NOT require the use of a press when
being used to convert a TJ (AA kit does not use needle bearings, nor
does the stock shaft in a TJ. YJs, though, do have needle bearings,
and they would need to be pressed off the old shaft during the
install). I don't have a press, so that was key. I didn't like the
idea of the RE hackntap kit, because even if it's just as strong
....when done perfectly... I didn't feel 100% confident that I'd be
able to maintain a perfectly straight cut and perfectly drill and tap
that hole, balanced, when doing an install.
The stuff arrived a couple weeks ago. I went to my friend's place, and
began the install in his garage. First, one of the stupid nuts welded
inside the frame that holds the bolts for the t-case skid plate had
broken loose of the weld. Lovely. I just hacksawed through the spacer
and the bolt (I had a 1" drop kit on the t-case at the time). I don't
cut or weld, so I later took the jeep to a shop to get this nut
problem fixed (after finishing the install).
Of course, make sure you jack up that tranny to support it, and set it
on a jack stand.
Get a GOOD, large, strong set of snap ring pliers. You need to make
sure to get one of the outer diameter snap ring pliers with little
paddles on the end (not pins)...look like needle-nose pliers that had
the ends put in a vice. You also need to get a set of inner diameter
snap ring pliers. The snap rings suck, just be ready for that.
When you get the t-case split in half, and you take that magnet out of
the bottom to clean the metal shavings off of it, be EXTREMELY careful
not to drop it. I was laying under my jeep, no more than 8 or 10
inches from the ground, and the magnet slipped out of my towel.
SHATTER! Damn. Just be careful. It's hard to find a magnet of the
right size to replace this one. I ended up having to wait until Monday
and get one from a local 4wd shop.
BE CAREFUL WITH THAT OIL PUMP. It is somewhat delicate. When putting
the case back together, I didn't get things lined up just right, and
when I tried to jiggle things into place, the hole in the pump where
the pickup tube enters cracked. The pickup tube wouldn't stay in place
anymore. I had to get a new one. Got it locally for 66 bucks. If you
do end up damaging your pump and needing to replace it, it IS the part
listed on some sites for around 50 bucks labled as a "Oil Pump Housing
and Seal" for the NP231 transfer case.
Make sure, at all times during the reassembly process, that you can
still turn the output shaft freely. I put my transmission into
neutral, and during the process, to make sure nothing ever slipped out
of place (my mainshaft did slip out of a bearing at one point, which
led to my breaking of the oil pump), I just turned the mainshaft every
once in awhile, making sure it wasn't jammed. I also had the t-case in
4low at that point, so I could also verify the chain was seated
properly (not necessary, really...its obvious if the chain is seated
or not), and watched as the front output shaft turned while I turned
the rear output/main shaft.
One more note: use the red RTV. That black ---- is gross. I tried some
of the black "sensor safe, high temp" style in a caulking gun
form-factor. I got it everywhere. I used a bit too much, but the
application method was part of the problem. If you do get a
caulk-application style one, make sure to cut the opening in the
applicator tip AS SMALL AS POSSIBLE so you don't have the problems I
did. I ended up giving up on that RTV, and going to this red RTV that
was in an easy-cheese style aerosol can. Just tip the applicator tip
to the side, and ------ with ease. That was MUCH nicer. Additionally,
the red stuff is thicker, and doesn't get all goopy and everywhere. It
took awhile cleaning that black crap off my hands and arms. UGH.
Finally, don't do this alone. I NEEDED (sure others might not, but I
DID) ALL FOUR HANDS I had at my disposal (mine and my friend's) for
reattaching the rear case half to the jeep. And the additional hands
definitely helped for other things, though they weren't as absolutely
necessary as they were when putting the case halves back together.
Oh yeah, in case I didn't mention, I did this install with the case
still on the vehicle. There are varying opinions on whether it is
easier to do the install with the case attached, or to first remove
the case from the tranny. I took the on-the-vehicle route, because I
have 4" of suspension lift and plenty of room to work under there, and
I wanted to reduce the chance of messing anything more than absolutely
necessary up during my install. I'm not a clutz (well, I am a
little...I dropped that magnet and broke that oil pump), but I figure,
don't go any deeper than necessary, and reduce the chance, however
minimal, of f'ing up any other parts of my drivetrain. After all, I've
never touched a transmission or t-case before, anyway. I also don't
have a good work bench, so I wouldn't have had a good place to work on
a fully removed t-case.
Well, I hope that helps. I know it was wordy, but I wanted to make
sure I mentioned all the pitfalls I encountered, to ensure you can
better avoid my mistakes, and have a good install experience. Even
with the problems I had, I feel the install was relatively easy, and
definitely worth it. I still saved money over paying someone else to
do it, I learned first-hand what is in my t-case workings, and how it
works, and I learned that the innards of the t-case are not actually
that scary or intimidating as one might imagine.
Now, since you have a YJ, you may not get away without having to have
a press, regardless of whether you choose the JB or AA kit. You'll
have to deal with that when the time comes.
As for the drive shaft, I would definitely recommend the CV shaft. CV
at the output of the t-case, and U-Joint at the Pinion. You need to
point the pinion up at the CV joint, as others have already mentioned
in this thread. I chose to get a set of adjustable lower control arms
(~$225 locally). And, anyone reading this and thinking about working
on their TJ, you will need to get these little bolt-on things that
extend your shock perches back further, so that when you rotate the
pinion and axle up, your shock won't get dented by your lower coil
spring perch. This probably isn't as much, if any, of a concern for
the YJ owners.
My TJ also has 4" of lift, and I had driven it that way for a little
over a year with the stock rear driveshaft and slip yoke. It was
starting vibrate in the last couple months, and I knew it was time.
Good luck with whatever you decide. And have fun. It can get messy
down there if you're like me and this is the most difficult vehicle
mod you've attempted, but if you're just patient and pay attention,
and DON'T FORCE, you'll learn alot, and have fun working on your car
at the same time.
/Bob
"belowme" <dontbotherme@nospam.com> wrote in message news:<3fa1b4b0_2@newspeer2.tds.net>...
> What is the popular opinion about slip yoke eliminators? Do you folks have
> favorite manufacturer's, or good or bad things to say about them? I am
> considering one for my YJ, it is at 4" of lift with 35" tires, and it is
> time to do it. Thanks for your advice.
>
>
> Jerry
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
How to make exhaust quieter was- Re: Slip Yoke Eliminator
On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 15:10:59 -0500, "TJim" <jim@ranlet.nospam.com>
shared the following:
>You mean he makes cocktails on the beach? When should we all arrive?
>All we need is Travis' pig roaster...
>:-)
I can't tow it to y'all with my Jeep right now without waking up the
dead. I got up at 5am this morning and removed the exhaust manifolds
and the rest of the exhaust. I decided to try a set of 2.5"
glasspacks, 28" long. Well... they fit right up and I got them
clamped down really good. Got in, fired it up and WOW! Oh my gosh,
that's WAY too loud. Picture: (CJ5 with 304)
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep/exhaust/08.jpg
I guess I'm going to have to remove the glasspacks and put some turbo
mufflers on. Has anyone tried shoving a bunch of steel wool or
something like that up inside of glasspacks to quieten them down some?
I mean this combo of headers and glasspacks is just WAAAAY too loud.
I don't wanna torture my neighbors.
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
shared the following:
>You mean he makes cocktails on the beach? When should we all arrive?
>All we need is Travis' pig roaster...
>:-)
I can't tow it to y'all with my Jeep right now without waking up the
dead. I got up at 5am this morning and removed the exhaust manifolds
and the rest of the exhaust. I decided to try a set of 2.5"
glasspacks, 28" long. Well... they fit right up and I got them
clamped down really good. Got in, fired it up and WOW! Oh my gosh,
that's WAY too loud. Picture: (CJ5 with 304)
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep/exhaust/08.jpg
I guess I'm going to have to remove the glasspacks and put some turbo
mufflers on. Has anyone tried shoving a bunch of steel wool or
something like that up inside of glasspacks to quieten them down some?
I mean this combo of headers and glasspacks is just WAAAAY too loud.
I don't wanna torture my neighbors.
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
How to make exhaust quieter was- Re: Slip Yoke Eliminator
On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 15:10:59 -0500, "TJim" <jim@ranlet.nospam.com>
shared the following:
>You mean he makes cocktails on the beach? When should we all arrive?
>All we need is Travis' pig roaster...
>:-)
I can't tow it to y'all with my Jeep right now without waking up the
dead. I got up at 5am this morning and removed the exhaust manifolds
and the rest of the exhaust. I decided to try a set of 2.5"
glasspacks, 28" long. Well... they fit right up and I got them
clamped down really good. Got in, fired it up and WOW! Oh my gosh,
that's WAY too loud. Picture: (CJ5 with 304)
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep/exhaust/08.jpg
I guess I'm going to have to remove the glasspacks and put some turbo
mufflers on. Has anyone tried shoving a bunch of steel wool or
something like that up inside of glasspacks to quieten them down some?
I mean this combo of headers and glasspacks is just WAAAAY too loud.
I don't wanna torture my neighbors.
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
shared the following:
>You mean he makes cocktails on the beach? When should we all arrive?
>All we need is Travis' pig roaster...
>:-)
I can't tow it to y'all with my Jeep right now without waking up the
dead. I got up at 5am this morning and removed the exhaust manifolds
and the rest of the exhaust. I decided to try a set of 2.5"
glasspacks, 28" long. Well... they fit right up and I got them
clamped down really good. Got in, fired it up and WOW! Oh my gosh,
that's WAY too loud. Picture: (CJ5 with 304)
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep/exhaust/08.jpg
I guess I'm going to have to remove the glasspacks and put some turbo
mufflers on. Has anyone tried shoving a bunch of steel wool or
something like that up inside of glasspacks to quieten them down some?
I mean this combo of headers and glasspacks is just WAAAAY too loud.
I don't wanna torture my neighbors.
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
How to make exhaust quieter was- Re: Slip Yoke Eliminator
On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 15:10:59 -0500, "TJim" <jim@ranlet.nospam.com>
shared the following:
>You mean he makes cocktails on the beach? When should we all arrive?
>All we need is Travis' pig roaster...
>:-)
I can't tow it to y'all with my Jeep right now without waking up the
dead. I got up at 5am this morning and removed the exhaust manifolds
and the rest of the exhaust. I decided to try a set of 2.5"
glasspacks, 28" long. Well... they fit right up and I got them
clamped down really good. Got in, fired it up and WOW! Oh my gosh,
that's WAY too loud. Picture: (CJ5 with 304)
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep/exhaust/08.jpg
I guess I'm going to have to remove the glasspacks and put some turbo
mufflers on. Has anyone tried shoving a bunch of steel wool or
something like that up inside of glasspacks to quieten them down some?
I mean this combo of headers and glasspacks is just WAAAAY too loud.
I don't wanna torture my neighbors.
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
shared the following:
>You mean he makes cocktails on the beach? When should we all arrive?
>All we need is Travis' pig roaster...
>:-)
I can't tow it to y'all with my Jeep right now without waking up the
dead. I got up at 5am this morning and removed the exhaust manifolds
and the rest of the exhaust. I decided to try a set of 2.5"
glasspacks, 28" long. Well... they fit right up and I got them
clamped down really good. Got in, fired it up and WOW! Oh my gosh,
that's WAY too loud. Picture: (CJ5 with 304)
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep/exhaust/08.jpg
I guess I'm going to have to remove the glasspacks and put some turbo
mufflers on. Has anyone tried shoving a bunch of steel wool or
something like that up inside of glasspacks to quieten them down some?
I mean this combo of headers and glasspacks is just WAAAAY too loud.
I don't wanna torture my neighbors.
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Slip Yoke Eliminator
Gerald, would you please point me to the web site URL of the one other
dreamer that believes the puny chain, sun and planetary are as strong as
Dana 18 that came in the original Civilian Jeep. Two to one are perfect
for stock Dana 44 with 5.38s.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Gerald G. McGeorge" wrote:
>
> Unfortunately many "Real Jeeps" have 2:1 ratios, whereas YJs & TJs have
> 2.72:1 ratios. Also, it's fairly well acepted by now that the NP231 has been
> every bit as durable was the older D18/20 and D300 gear-driven boxes, leaks
> less and is easier to modify. Major weak point is the slip yoke, however.
dreamer that believes the puny chain, sun and planetary are as strong as
Dana 18 that came in the original Civilian Jeep. Two to one are perfect
for stock Dana 44 with 5.38s.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Gerald G. McGeorge" wrote:
>
> Unfortunately many "Real Jeeps" have 2:1 ratios, whereas YJs & TJs have
> 2.72:1 ratios. Also, it's fairly well acepted by now that the NP231 has been
> every bit as durable was the older D18/20 and D300 gear-driven boxes, leaks
> less and is easier to modify. Major weak point is the slip yoke, however.