Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
 

Switch oils, For me, Pennzoil, removed the sludge left form a major
oil company.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dan Ferrell wrote:
>
> The beauty of my 258 is that it is held together with crude and still
> keeps running. Its like a yard full of weeds; if you keep them cut they
> look like grass. I usually switch out some of the crude in my 258 every 3
> or 4 thousand miles and it stills looks good from the outside.
>
> Dan Ferrell
> 84 CJ-7

Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
 

Switch oils, For me, Pennzoil, removed the sludge left form a major
oil company.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dan Ferrell wrote:
>
> The beauty of my 258 is that it is held together with crude and still
> keeps running. Its like a yard full of weeds; if you keep them cut they
> look like grass. I usually switch out some of the crude in my 258 every 3
> or 4 thousand miles and it stills looks good from the outside.
>
> Dan Ferrell
> 84 CJ-7

Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
 

Switch oils, For me, Pennzoil, removed the sludge left form a major
oil company.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dan Ferrell wrote:
>
> The beauty of my 258 is that it is held together with crude and still
> keeps running. Its like a yard full of weeds; if you keep them cut they
> look like grass. I usually switch out some of the crude in my 258 every 3
> or 4 thousand miles and it stills looks good from the outside.
>
> Dan Ferrell
> 84 CJ-7

Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
 

Rich Hampel wrote:
> May I suggest a 'better way'

Certainly

> 1. sludge/varnish removal: Drain dino oil, fill crankcase with "Marvel
> Mystery OIl", run at no load for short period of time, shut down and
> let 'soak' for 8 hours, drain and save MMO. Fill with dino oil and
> add 5-10% MMO to crankcase oil.

What exactly is in Marvel Mystery Oil that is so special that it's been
around for so long, and yet none of the major players add it to their oil?

BTW if it's a "mystery" then what basis does an "filtration engineer"
recomend it?

> 2. Add MMO to fuel to eliminate carbon build up in ring grooves - 'top
> oil' the engine.

Doesn't water or ATF accomplish this? Pardon me for sounding a bit
sceptical but I'm leary of "mystery" additives that are being recomended
for multiple, unrelated tasks. I've definitely seen MMO recomended by a
lot of people for various uses, but I still wonder...

> 3. Cold Start wear: Install a pressure oiler.

I'll stick with synthetics here, I'm not ---- enough about startup wear
to start bolting things on.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
 

Rich Hampel wrote:
> May I suggest a 'better way'

Certainly

> 1. sludge/varnish removal: Drain dino oil, fill crankcase with "Marvel
> Mystery OIl", run at no load for short period of time, shut down and
> let 'soak' for 8 hours, drain and save MMO. Fill with dino oil and
> add 5-10% MMO to crankcase oil.

What exactly is in Marvel Mystery Oil that is so special that it's been
around for so long, and yet none of the major players add it to their oil?

BTW if it's a "mystery" then what basis does an "filtration engineer"
recomend it?

> 2. Add MMO to fuel to eliminate carbon build up in ring grooves - 'top
> oil' the engine.

Doesn't water or ATF accomplish this? Pardon me for sounding a bit
sceptical but I'm leary of "mystery" additives that are being recomended
for multiple, unrelated tasks. I've definitely seen MMO recomended by a
lot of people for various uses, but I still wonder...

> 3. Cold Start wear: Install a pressure oiler.

I'll stick with synthetics here, I'm not ---- enough about startup wear
to start bolting things on.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
 

Rich Hampel wrote:
> May I suggest a 'better way'

Certainly

> 1. sludge/varnish removal: Drain dino oil, fill crankcase with "Marvel
> Mystery OIl", run at no load for short period of time, shut down and
> let 'soak' for 8 hours, drain and save MMO. Fill with dino oil and
> add 5-10% MMO to crankcase oil.

What exactly is in Marvel Mystery Oil that is so special that it's been
around for so long, and yet none of the major players add it to their oil?

BTW if it's a "mystery" then what basis does an "filtration engineer"
recomend it?

> 2. Add MMO to fuel to eliminate carbon build up in ring grooves - 'top
> oil' the engine.

Doesn't water or ATF accomplish this? Pardon me for sounding a bit
sceptical but I'm leary of "mystery" additives that are being recomended
for multiple, unrelated tasks. I've definitely seen MMO recomended by a
lot of people for various uses, but I still wonder...

> 3. Cold Start wear: Install a pressure oiler.

I'll stick with synthetics here, I'm not ---- enough about startup wear
to start bolting things on.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
 

Kevin in San Diego wrote:
> It will soften the seals that have hardened. but it will also loosen the
> crud that has slowed the leaking of your high mileage engine. It will in
> effect cause it to leak more. I have had this happen to me. Funny enough,
> when I went back to conventional oil, the leaks slowed way down again after
> a while.
> KH

If you're relying on sludge to keep oil in the engine, then you've got
bigger problems than what oil to use. :)

I wouldn't look at it as "in effect causing a leak" I would look at it
as in effect showing you a leak so you can fix it (or get it fixed)
before the leak leaves you on the side of a road with a seized engine.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
 

Kevin in San Diego wrote:
> It will soften the seals that have hardened. but it will also loosen the
> crud that has slowed the leaking of your high mileage engine. It will in
> effect cause it to leak more. I have had this happen to me. Funny enough,
> when I went back to conventional oil, the leaks slowed way down again after
> a while.
> KH

If you're relying on sludge to keep oil in the engine, then you've got
bigger problems than what oil to use. :)

I wouldn't look at it as "in effect causing a leak" I would look at it
as in effect showing you a leak so you can fix it (or get it fixed)
before the leak leaves you on the side of a road with a seized engine.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
 

Kevin in San Diego wrote:
> It will soften the seals that have hardened. but it will also loosen the
> crud that has slowed the leaking of your high mileage engine. It will in
> effect cause it to leak more. I have had this happen to me. Funny enough,
> when I went back to conventional oil, the leaks slowed way down again after
> a while.
> KH

If you're relying on sludge to keep oil in the engine, then you've got
bigger problems than what oil to use. :)

I wouldn't look at it as "in effect causing a leak" I would look at it
as in effect showing you a leak so you can fix it (or get it fixed)
before the leak leaves you on the side of a road with a seized engine.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
 

Mike Romain wrote:
> Yup, for sure.
>
> Some turn into pin cushions.
>
> If the engine is totally dry, it might be ok, but if the engine is
> seeping anywhere, forget it.

To me any leak that shows up because synthetic oil cleaned the sludge
that was blocking it, is a small price to pay for knowing that it will
never sludge up again. Not to mention that it diagnosed an existing leak
for me (hypothetically speaking; because I've never seen an oil leak
occur, or get worse after putting synthetics in).

I have had Mobil 1 in 6 or 7 vehicles and my 88 YJ and haven't seen any
leakage, or increase in leakage in the case of one Dodge pickup (very
minor rear main leak that has stayed very minor). Or my Boss' YJ (which
leaked like a sieve before I switched it to synthetics, and still leaks
the same amount about 1 quart per 200 miles after the switch).

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein