Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
01-30-2004, 05:21 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
holds oil back in the filter?
What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
which should be a good thing.
I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain back
down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
What experience have you guys had with this filter?
--
Skip
holds oil back in the filter?
What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
which should be a good thing.
I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain back
down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
What experience have you guys had with this filter?
--
Skip
01-30-2004, 06:32 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
Hi Skip,
All filters use a one way flapper valve to stop oil from draining
back into the crankcase and leaving the bearings dry. And we add a quart
to the oil change for the filter. Unless your engine is full of sludge,
then oil will have drained back to it's proper level within seconds.
I use Fram myself:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
And change oil every three thousand miles, like the maintenance
schedule of a new Jeep that is just driven to the Post Office:
http://www.----------.com/lubeschedule.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Skip wrote:
>
> Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> holds oil back in the filter?
>
> What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
> which should be a good thing.
>
> I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain back
> down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
>
> Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
>
> What experience have you guys had with this filter?
>
> --
> Skip
All filters use a one way flapper valve to stop oil from draining
back into the crankcase and leaving the bearings dry. And we add a quart
to the oil change for the filter. Unless your engine is full of sludge,
then oil will have drained back to it's proper level within seconds.
I use Fram myself:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
And change oil every three thousand miles, like the maintenance
schedule of a new Jeep that is just driven to the Post Office:
http://www.----------.com/lubeschedule.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Skip wrote:
>
> Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> holds oil back in the filter?
>
> What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
> which should be a good thing.
>
> I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain back
> down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
>
> Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
>
> What experience have you guys had with this filter?
>
> --
> Skip
01-30-2004, 06:32 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
Hi Skip,
All filters use a one way flapper valve to stop oil from draining
back into the crankcase and leaving the bearings dry. And we add a quart
to the oil change for the filter. Unless your engine is full of sludge,
then oil will have drained back to it's proper level within seconds.
I use Fram myself:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
And change oil every three thousand miles, like the maintenance
schedule of a new Jeep that is just driven to the Post Office:
http://www.----------.com/lubeschedule.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Skip wrote:
>
> Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> holds oil back in the filter?
>
> What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
> which should be a good thing.
>
> I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain back
> down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
>
> Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
>
> What experience have you guys had with this filter?
>
> --
> Skip
All filters use a one way flapper valve to stop oil from draining
back into the crankcase and leaving the bearings dry. And we add a quart
to the oil change for the filter. Unless your engine is full of sludge,
then oil will have drained back to it's proper level within seconds.
I use Fram myself:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
And change oil every three thousand miles, like the maintenance
schedule of a new Jeep that is just driven to the Post Office:
http://www.----------.com/lubeschedule.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Skip wrote:
>
> Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> holds oil back in the filter?
>
> What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
> which should be a good thing.
>
> I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain back
> down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
>
> Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
>
> What experience have you guys had with this filter?
>
> --
> Skip
01-30-2004, 06:32 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
Hi Skip,
All filters use a one way flapper valve to stop oil from draining
back into the crankcase and leaving the bearings dry. And we add a quart
to the oil change for the filter. Unless your engine is full of sludge,
then oil will have drained back to it's proper level within seconds.
I use Fram myself:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
And change oil every three thousand miles, like the maintenance
schedule of a new Jeep that is just driven to the Post Office:
http://www.----------.com/lubeschedule.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Skip wrote:
>
> Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> holds oil back in the filter?
>
> What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
> which should be a good thing.
>
> I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain back
> down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
>
> Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
>
> What experience have you guys had with this filter?
>
> --
> Skip
All filters use a one way flapper valve to stop oil from draining
back into the crankcase and leaving the bearings dry. And we add a quart
to the oil change for the filter. Unless your engine is full of sludge,
then oil will have drained back to it's proper level within seconds.
I use Fram myself:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
And change oil every three thousand miles, like the maintenance
schedule of a new Jeep that is just driven to the Post Office:
http://www.----------.com/lubeschedule.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Skip wrote:
>
> Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> holds oil back in the filter?
>
> What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
> which should be a good thing.
>
> I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain back
> down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
>
> Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
>
> What experience have you guys had with this filter?
>
> --
> Skip
01-30-2004, 07:01 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
Heya Bill!
Hmm on the subject of sludge... I was thinking about that today...
considering the pushrod problem... and I live in a sandy environment...
wiped a bunch of sandy crap off the surface inside the valve cover where the
oil cap seals today... engine has 176k on it... any way to detect and/or
remove the sludge short of an engine overhaul?
It runs real nice now but there is some sludge in the valve cover and i
imagine also elsewhere I can't see... any of the bottled stuff that actually
works and won't kill my gaskets? I changed the oil again today after only
two weeks due to the radiator problem yesterday. Oil was a bit darker than I
expected, but that may be a good thing. Maybe it's cleaning some of it out.
Maybe change oil and filter every 1k miles or something like that? I think
I'm about due for a new oil pan too... getting rusty. Might pull the valve
cover again and high-pressure wash it as well and throw in a new gasket.
Btw I put valvoline 10w 30 in it. We have hot summers so I'm leery of the 5w
30 stuff.
After all of this I think I'm still under $500 or so. Now I gotta figure if
I want to tackle the body work to kill the rust and make it presentable or
farm it out to a body shop..
--
Skip
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:401AE97F.341C511C@***.net...
> Hi Skip,
> All filters use a one way flapper valve to stop oil from draining
> back into the crankcase and leaving the bearings dry. And we add a quart
> to the oil change for the filter. Unless your engine is full of sludge,
> then oil will have drained back to it's proper level within seconds.
> I use Fram myself:
> http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
> And change oil every three thousand miles, like the maintenance
> schedule of a new Jeep that is just driven to the Post Office:
> http://www.----------.com/lubeschedule.pdf
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Skip wrote:
> >
> > Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> > holds oil back in the filter?
> >
> > What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as
well,
> > which should be a good thing.
> >
> > I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain
back
> > down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
> >
> > Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
> >
> > What experience have you guys had with this filter?
> >
> > --
> > Skip
Hmm on the subject of sludge... I was thinking about that today...
considering the pushrod problem... and I live in a sandy environment...
wiped a bunch of sandy crap off the surface inside the valve cover where the
oil cap seals today... engine has 176k on it... any way to detect and/or
remove the sludge short of an engine overhaul?
It runs real nice now but there is some sludge in the valve cover and i
imagine also elsewhere I can't see... any of the bottled stuff that actually
works and won't kill my gaskets? I changed the oil again today after only
two weeks due to the radiator problem yesterday. Oil was a bit darker than I
expected, but that may be a good thing. Maybe it's cleaning some of it out.
Maybe change oil and filter every 1k miles or something like that? I think
I'm about due for a new oil pan too... getting rusty. Might pull the valve
cover again and high-pressure wash it as well and throw in a new gasket.
Btw I put valvoline 10w 30 in it. We have hot summers so I'm leery of the 5w
30 stuff.
After all of this I think I'm still under $500 or so. Now I gotta figure if
I want to tackle the body work to kill the rust and make it presentable or
farm it out to a body shop..
--
Skip
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:401AE97F.341C511C@***.net...
> Hi Skip,
> All filters use a one way flapper valve to stop oil from draining
> back into the crankcase and leaving the bearings dry. And we add a quart
> to the oil change for the filter. Unless your engine is full of sludge,
> then oil will have drained back to it's proper level within seconds.
> I use Fram myself:
> http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
> And change oil every three thousand miles, like the maintenance
> schedule of a new Jeep that is just driven to the Post Office:
> http://www.----------.com/lubeschedule.pdf
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Skip wrote:
> >
> > Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> > holds oil back in the filter?
> >
> > What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as
well,
> > which should be a good thing.
> >
> > I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain
back
> > down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
> >
> > Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
> >
> > What experience have you guys had with this filter?
> >
> > --
> > Skip
01-30-2004, 07:01 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
Heya Bill!
Hmm on the subject of sludge... I was thinking about that today...
considering the pushrod problem... and I live in a sandy environment...
wiped a bunch of sandy crap off the surface inside the valve cover where the
oil cap seals today... engine has 176k on it... any way to detect and/or
remove the sludge short of an engine overhaul?
It runs real nice now but there is some sludge in the valve cover and i
imagine also elsewhere I can't see... any of the bottled stuff that actually
works and won't kill my gaskets? I changed the oil again today after only
two weeks due to the radiator problem yesterday. Oil was a bit darker than I
expected, but that may be a good thing. Maybe it's cleaning some of it out.
Maybe change oil and filter every 1k miles or something like that? I think
I'm about due for a new oil pan too... getting rusty. Might pull the valve
cover again and high-pressure wash it as well and throw in a new gasket.
Btw I put valvoline 10w 30 in it. We have hot summers so I'm leery of the 5w
30 stuff.
After all of this I think I'm still under $500 or so. Now I gotta figure if
I want to tackle the body work to kill the rust and make it presentable or
farm it out to a body shop..
--
Skip
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:401AE97F.341C511C@***.net...
> Hi Skip,
> All filters use a one way flapper valve to stop oil from draining
> back into the crankcase and leaving the bearings dry. And we add a quart
> to the oil change for the filter. Unless your engine is full of sludge,
> then oil will have drained back to it's proper level within seconds.
> I use Fram myself:
> http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
> And change oil every three thousand miles, like the maintenance
> schedule of a new Jeep that is just driven to the Post Office:
> http://www.----------.com/lubeschedule.pdf
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Skip wrote:
> >
> > Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> > holds oil back in the filter?
> >
> > What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as
well,
> > which should be a good thing.
> >
> > I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain
back
> > down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
> >
> > Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
> >
> > What experience have you guys had with this filter?
> >
> > --
> > Skip
Hmm on the subject of sludge... I was thinking about that today...
considering the pushrod problem... and I live in a sandy environment...
wiped a bunch of sandy crap off the surface inside the valve cover where the
oil cap seals today... engine has 176k on it... any way to detect and/or
remove the sludge short of an engine overhaul?
It runs real nice now but there is some sludge in the valve cover and i
imagine also elsewhere I can't see... any of the bottled stuff that actually
works and won't kill my gaskets? I changed the oil again today after only
two weeks due to the radiator problem yesterday. Oil was a bit darker than I
expected, but that may be a good thing. Maybe it's cleaning some of it out.
Maybe change oil and filter every 1k miles or something like that? I think
I'm about due for a new oil pan too... getting rusty. Might pull the valve
cover again and high-pressure wash it as well and throw in a new gasket.
Btw I put valvoline 10w 30 in it. We have hot summers so I'm leery of the 5w
30 stuff.
After all of this I think I'm still under $500 or so. Now I gotta figure if
I want to tackle the body work to kill the rust and make it presentable or
farm it out to a body shop..
--
Skip
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:401AE97F.341C511C@***.net...
> Hi Skip,
> All filters use a one way flapper valve to stop oil from draining
> back into the crankcase and leaving the bearings dry. And we add a quart
> to the oil change for the filter. Unless your engine is full of sludge,
> then oil will have drained back to it's proper level within seconds.
> I use Fram myself:
> http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
> And change oil every three thousand miles, like the maintenance
> schedule of a new Jeep that is just driven to the Post Office:
> http://www.----------.com/lubeschedule.pdf
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Skip wrote:
> >
> > Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> > holds oil back in the filter?
> >
> > What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as
well,
> > which should be a good thing.
> >
> > I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain
back
> > down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
> >
> > Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
> >
> > What experience have you guys had with this filter?
> >
> > --
> > Skip
01-30-2004, 07:01 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
Heya Bill!
Hmm on the subject of sludge... I was thinking about that today...
considering the pushrod problem... and I live in a sandy environment...
wiped a bunch of sandy crap off the surface inside the valve cover where the
oil cap seals today... engine has 176k on it... any way to detect and/or
remove the sludge short of an engine overhaul?
It runs real nice now but there is some sludge in the valve cover and i
imagine also elsewhere I can't see... any of the bottled stuff that actually
works and won't kill my gaskets? I changed the oil again today after only
two weeks due to the radiator problem yesterday. Oil was a bit darker than I
expected, but that may be a good thing. Maybe it's cleaning some of it out.
Maybe change oil and filter every 1k miles or something like that? I think
I'm about due for a new oil pan too... getting rusty. Might pull the valve
cover again and high-pressure wash it as well and throw in a new gasket.
Btw I put valvoline 10w 30 in it. We have hot summers so I'm leery of the 5w
30 stuff.
After all of this I think I'm still under $500 or so. Now I gotta figure if
I want to tackle the body work to kill the rust and make it presentable or
farm it out to a body shop..
--
Skip
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:401AE97F.341C511C@***.net...
> Hi Skip,
> All filters use a one way flapper valve to stop oil from draining
> back into the crankcase and leaving the bearings dry. And we add a quart
> to the oil change for the filter. Unless your engine is full of sludge,
> then oil will have drained back to it's proper level within seconds.
> I use Fram myself:
> http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
> And change oil every three thousand miles, like the maintenance
> schedule of a new Jeep that is just driven to the Post Office:
> http://www.----------.com/lubeschedule.pdf
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Skip wrote:
> >
> > Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> > holds oil back in the filter?
> >
> > What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as
well,
> > which should be a good thing.
> >
> > I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain
back
> > down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
> >
> > Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
> >
> > What experience have you guys had with this filter?
> >
> > --
> > Skip
Hmm on the subject of sludge... I was thinking about that today...
considering the pushrod problem... and I live in a sandy environment...
wiped a bunch of sandy crap off the surface inside the valve cover where the
oil cap seals today... engine has 176k on it... any way to detect and/or
remove the sludge short of an engine overhaul?
It runs real nice now but there is some sludge in the valve cover and i
imagine also elsewhere I can't see... any of the bottled stuff that actually
works and won't kill my gaskets? I changed the oil again today after only
two weeks due to the radiator problem yesterday. Oil was a bit darker than I
expected, but that may be a good thing. Maybe it's cleaning some of it out.
Maybe change oil and filter every 1k miles or something like that? I think
I'm about due for a new oil pan too... getting rusty. Might pull the valve
cover again and high-pressure wash it as well and throw in a new gasket.
Btw I put valvoline 10w 30 in it. We have hot summers so I'm leery of the 5w
30 stuff.
After all of this I think I'm still under $500 or so. Now I gotta figure if
I want to tackle the body work to kill the rust and make it presentable or
farm it out to a body shop..
--
Skip
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:401AE97F.341C511C@***.net...
> Hi Skip,
> All filters use a one way flapper valve to stop oil from draining
> back into the crankcase and leaving the bearings dry. And we add a quart
> to the oil change for the filter. Unless your engine is full of sludge,
> then oil will have drained back to it's proper level within seconds.
> I use Fram myself:
> http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
> And change oil every three thousand miles, like the maintenance
> schedule of a new Jeep that is just driven to the Post Office:
> http://www.----------.com/lubeschedule.pdf
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Skip wrote:
> >
> > Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> > holds oil back in the filter?
> >
> > What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as
well,
> > which should be a good thing.
> >
> > I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain
back
> > down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
> >
> > Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
> >
> > What experience have you guys had with this filter?
> >
> > --
> > Skip
01-30-2004, 09:11 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
Fram no longer has a good reputation, at least not what it used to be. It's
not a brand that I will use in my TJ. Lots of good filters available that
are far better... AC-Delco Duraguard, Purolator PureOne, Wicks, Mobil-1,
K&N... I use either AC-Delco's Duraguard or Purolator's PureOne, whichever I
can find because they both did very well in the filter tests I've read over
the years.
Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
To email, remove 'me' from my email address
N6TAY, PP-ASEL
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
<Skip> wrote in message news:bvelcn02e8o@enews4.newsguy.com...
> Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> holds oil back in the filter?
>
> What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
> which should be a good thing.
>
> I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain
back
> down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
>
> Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
>
> What experience have you guys had with this filter?
>
> --
> Skip
>
>
>
not a brand that I will use in my TJ. Lots of good filters available that
are far better... AC-Delco Duraguard, Purolator PureOne, Wicks, Mobil-1,
K&N... I use either AC-Delco's Duraguard or Purolator's PureOne, whichever I
can find because they both did very well in the filter tests I've read over
the years.
Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
To email, remove 'me' from my email address
N6TAY, PP-ASEL
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
<Skip> wrote in message news:bvelcn02e8o@enews4.newsguy.com...
> Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> holds oil back in the filter?
>
> What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
> which should be a good thing.
>
> I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain
back
> down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
>
> Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
>
> What experience have you guys had with this filter?
>
> --
> Skip
>
>
>
01-30-2004, 09:11 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
Fram no longer has a good reputation, at least not what it used to be. It's
not a brand that I will use in my TJ. Lots of good filters available that
are far better... AC-Delco Duraguard, Purolator PureOne, Wicks, Mobil-1,
K&N... I use either AC-Delco's Duraguard or Purolator's PureOne, whichever I
can find because they both did very well in the filter tests I've read over
the years.
Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
To email, remove 'me' from my email address
N6TAY, PP-ASEL
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
<Skip> wrote in message news:bvelcn02e8o@enews4.newsguy.com...
> Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> holds oil back in the filter?
>
> What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
> which should be a good thing.
>
> I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain
back
> down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
>
> Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
>
> What experience have you guys had with this filter?
>
> --
> Skip
>
>
>
not a brand that I will use in my TJ. Lots of good filters available that
are far better... AC-Delco Duraguard, Purolator PureOne, Wicks, Mobil-1,
K&N... I use either AC-Delco's Duraguard or Purolator's PureOne, whichever I
can find because they both did very well in the filter tests I've read over
the years.
Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
To email, remove 'me' from my email address
N6TAY, PP-ASEL
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
<Skip> wrote in message news:bvelcn02e8o@enews4.newsguy.com...
> Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> holds oil back in the filter?
>
> What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
> which should be a good thing.
>
> I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain
back
> down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
>
> Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
>
> What experience have you guys had with this filter?
>
> --
> Skip
>
>
>
01-30-2004, 09:11 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on Fram Toughguard oil filters?
Fram no longer has a good reputation, at least not what it used to be. It's
not a brand that I will use in my TJ. Lots of good filters available that
are far better... AC-Delco Duraguard, Purolator PureOne, Wicks, Mobil-1,
K&N... I use either AC-Delco's Duraguard or Purolator's PureOne, whichever I
can find because they both did very well in the filter tests I've read over
the years.
Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
To email, remove 'me' from my email address
N6TAY, PP-ASEL
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
<Skip> wrote in message news:bvelcn02e8o@enews4.newsguy.com...
> Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> holds oil back in the filter?
>
> What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
> which should be a good thing.
>
> I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain
back
> down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
>
> Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
>
> What experience have you guys had with this filter?
>
> --
> Skip
>
>
>
not a brand that I will use in my TJ. Lots of good filters available that
are far better... AC-Delco Duraguard, Purolator PureOne, Wicks, Mobil-1,
K&N... I use either AC-Delco's Duraguard or Purolator's PureOne, whichever I
can find because they both did very well in the filter tests I've read over
the years.
Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
To email, remove 'me' from my email address
N6TAY, PP-ASEL
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
<Skip> wrote in message news:bvelcn02e8o@enews4.newsguy.com...
> Last oil change, I put on a Fram Toughguard filter. As I understand, it
> holds oil back in the filter?
>
> What I've noticed, is that it seems to hold oil back in the block as well,
> which should be a good thing.
>
> I just did another oil change and it seems like the oil does not drain
back
> down into the pan immediately agfter shutting the engine down?
>
> Makes it tough to check the oil level with the dipstick...
>
> What experience have you guys had with this filter?
>
> --
> Skip
>
>
>