Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
"Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
> Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride in another
> car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't see the pump causing
> the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper is held on with two mounts each
> having 4 bolts. Laying on the ground they can be reached with a ratchet and
> socket, 14mm as I recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are under the
> doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back side of
> these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
>
> JoBo.
I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
ALMOST sure it is the pump.
I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear bumper
is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust holes in
them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in my initial
post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels are
they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I prime/rust
proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker panel and the
rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the chamber with rust
proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld the hole closed but
then I am right back to where I stated, not wanting to weld
primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could rust from the
inside out since they will not be primed.
Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
Thanks for the replies
Paul
> Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride in another
> car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't see the pump causing
> the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper is held on with two mounts each
> having 4 bolts. Laying on the ground they can be reached with a ratchet and
> socket, 14mm as I recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are under the
> doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back side of
> these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
>
> JoBo.
I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
ALMOST sure it is the pump.
I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear bumper
is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust holes in
them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in my initial
post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels are
they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I prime/rust
proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker panel and the
rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the chamber with rust
proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld the hole closed but
then I am right back to where I stated, not wanting to weld
primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could rust from the
inside out since they will not be primed.
Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
Thanks for the replies
Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were the
PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
last indefinately.
Steve G.
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408050422.77000464@posting.google.c om...
> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
> > Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride in
another
> > car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't see the pump
causing
> > the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper is held on with two mounts
each
> > having 4 bolts. Laying on the ground they can be reached with a ratchet
and
> > socket, 14mm as I recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are
under the
> > doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back side
of
> > these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
> >
> > JoBo.
>
>
> I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
> wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
> system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
> ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>
> I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear bumper
> is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust holes in
> them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in my initial
> post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
>
> About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels are
> they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I prime/rust
> proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker panel and the
> rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the chamber with rust
> proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld the hole closed but
> then I am right back to where I stated, not wanting to weld
> primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could rust from the
> inside out since they will not be primed.
>
> Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
> Thanks for the replies
>
> Paul
PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
last indefinately.
Steve G.
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408050422.77000464@posting.google.c om...
> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
> > Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride in
another
> > car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't see the pump
causing
> > the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper is held on with two mounts
each
> > having 4 bolts. Laying on the ground they can be reached with a ratchet
and
> > socket, 14mm as I recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are
under the
> > doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back side
of
> > these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
> >
> > JoBo.
>
>
> I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
> wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
> system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
> ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>
> I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear bumper
> is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust holes in
> them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in my initial
> post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
>
> About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels are
> they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I prime/rust
> proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker panel and the
> rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the chamber with rust
> proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld the hole closed but
> then I am right back to where I stated, not wanting to weld
> primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could rust from the
> inside out since they will not be primed.
>
> Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
> Thanks for the replies
>
> Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were the
PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
last indefinately.
Steve G.
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408050422.77000464@posting.google.c om...
> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
> > Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride in
another
> > car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't see the pump
causing
> > the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper is held on with two mounts
each
> > having 4 bolts. Laying on the ground they can be reached with a ratchet
and
> > socket, 14mm as I recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are
under the
> > doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back side
of
> > these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
> >
> > JoBo.
>
>
> I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
> wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
> system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
> ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>
> I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear bumper
> is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust holes in
> them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in my initial
> post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
>
> About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels are
> they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I prime/rust
> proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker panel and the
> rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the chamber with rust
> proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld the hole closed but
> then I am right back to where I stated, not wanting to weld
> primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could rust from the
> inside out since they will not be primed.
>
> Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
> Thanks for the replies
>
> Paul
PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
last indefinately.
Steve G.
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408050422.77000464@posting.google.c om...
> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
> > Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride in
another
> > car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't see the pump
causing
> > the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper is held on with two mounts
each
> > having 4 bolts. Laying on the ground they can be reached with a ratchet
and
> > socket, 14mm as I recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are
under the
> > doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back side
of
> > these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
> >
> > JoBo.
>
>
> I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
> wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
> system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
> ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>
> I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear bumper
> is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust holes in
> them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in my initial
> post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
>
> About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels are
> they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I prime/rust
> proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker panel and the
> rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the chamber with rust
> proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld the hole closed but
> then I am right back to where I stated, not wanting to weld
> primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could rust from the
> inside out since they will not be primed.
>
> Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
> Thanks for the replies
>
> Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were the
PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
last indefinately.
Steve G.
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408050422.77000464@posting.google.c om...
> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
> > Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride in
another
> > car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't see the pump
causing
> > the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper is held on with two mounts
each
> > having 4 bolts. Laying on the ground they can be reached with a ratchet
and
> > socket, 14mm as I recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are
under the
> > doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back side
of
> > these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
> >
> > JoBo.
>
>
> I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
> wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
> system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
> ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>
> I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear bumper
> is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust holes in
> them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in my initial
> post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
>
> About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels are
> they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I prime/rust
> proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker panel and the
> rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the chamber with rust
> proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld the hole closed but
> then I am right back to where I stated, not wanting to weld
> primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could rust from the
> inside out since they will not be primed.
>
> Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
> Thanks for the replies
>
> Paul
PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
last indefinately.
Steve G.
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408050422.77000464@posting.google.c om...
> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
> > Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride in
another
> > car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't see the pump
causing
> > the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper is held on with two mounts
each
> > having 4 bolts. Laying on the ground they can be reached with a ratchet
and
> > socket, 14mm as I recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are
under the
> > doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back side
of
> > these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
> >
> > JoBo.
>
>
> I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
> wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
> system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
> ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>
> I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear bumper
> is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust holes in
> them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in my initial
> post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
>
> About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels are
> they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I prime/rust
> proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker panel and the
> rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the chamber with rust
> proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld the hole closed but
> then I am right back to where I stated, not wanting to weld
> primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could rust from the
> inside out since they will not be primed.
>
> Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
> Thanks for the replies
>
> Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were the
PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
last indefinately.
Steve G.
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408050422.77000464@posting.google.c om...
> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
> > Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride in
another
> > car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't see the pump
causing
> > the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper is held on with two mounts
each
> > having 4 bolts. Laying on the ground they can be reached with a ratchet
and
> > socket, 14mm as I recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are
under the
> > doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back side
of
> > these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
> >
> > JoBo.
>
>
> I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
> wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
> system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
> ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>
> I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear bumper
> is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust holes in
> them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in my initial
> post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
>
> About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels are
> they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I prime/rust
> proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker panel and the
> rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the chamber with rust
> proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld the hole closed but
> then I am right back to where I stated, not wanting to weld
> primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could rust from the
> inside out since they will not be primed.
>
> Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
> Thanks for the replies
>
> Paul
PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
last indefinately.
Steve G.
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408050422.77000464@posting.google.c om...
> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
> > Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride in
another
> > car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't see the pump
causing
> > the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper is held on with two mounts
each
> > having 4 bolts. Laying on the ground they can be reached with a ratchet
and
> > socket, 14mm as I recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are
under the
> > doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back side
of
> > these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
> >
> > JoBo.
>
>
> I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
> wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
> system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
> ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>
> I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear bumper
> is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust holes in
> them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in my initial
> post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
>
> About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels are
> they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I prime/rust
> proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker panel and the
> rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the chamber with rust
> proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld the hole closed but
> then I am right back to where I stated, not wanting to weld
> primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could rust from the
> inside out since they will not be primed.
>
> Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
> Thanks for the replies
>
> Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
The reason I don't think it has anything to do with the wheel/tire
combo is that it wobbles badly at slow speeds but is fine at high
speeds. I am not positive but I thought if the tires were not
balanced they would wobble at higher speeds rather then low. Also the
tires are not that old and still are in good shape. I would say less
then three years old and less the 10,000 miles. Good tread and no
rotting. Of course that does not mean that they are not borked
inside. Like I said I went through the jeep manual and went through
their list of things that could be wrong and came up with the pump. I
agree that it sounds very weird and I have no experience at all with
power steering pumps so you probably know better then me.
Could it be a blown bushing in the front suspension, or wheel bearing?
I will take a good look at it this weekend. I will inspect the
suspension and rotate the tires. If I go through with this
restoration I would defiantly get a bushing kit and just have at it.
I have another question, do anyone know if shocks have a shelf life?
My dad bought 2 complete sets of shocks some 8 years ago, we put one
set and held onto the other four. Are they any good to use or do they
loose pressure sitting on the shelf for so long?
Thanks again
Paul
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message news:<HIvQc.17294$gE.17210@pd7tw3no>...
> First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were the
> PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
> belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
> certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
> the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
> tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
> and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
> steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
> buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
> There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
> the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
> really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
> seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
> sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
> and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
> over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
> sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
> that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
> seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
> primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
> Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
> with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
> there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
> last indefinately.
> Steve G.
combo is that it wobbles badly at slow speeds but is fine at high
speeds. I am not positive but I thought if the tires were not
balanced they would wobble at higher speeds rather then low. Also the
tires are not that old and still are in good shape. I would say less
then three years old and less the 10,000 miles. Good tread and no
rotting. Of course that does not mean that they are not borked
inside. Like I said I went through the jeep manual and went through
their list of things that could be wrong and came up with the pump. I
agree that it sounds very weird and I have no experience at all with
power steering pumps so you probably know better then me.
Could it be a blown bushing in the front suspension, or wheel bearing?
I will take a good look at it this weekend. I will inspect the
suspension and rotate the tires. If I go through with this
restoration I would defiantly get a bushing kit and just have at it.
I have another question, do anyone know if shocks have a shelf life?
My dad bought 2 complete sets of shocks some 8 years ago, we put one
set and held onto the other four. Are they any good to use or do they
loose pressure sitting on the shelf for so long?
Thanks again
Paul
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message news:<HIvQc.17294$gE.17210@pd7tw3no>...
> First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were the
> PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
> belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
> certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
> the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
> tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
> and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
> steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
> buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
> There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
> the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
> really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
> seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
> sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
> and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
> over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
> sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
> that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
> seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
> primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
> Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
> with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
> there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
> last indefinately.
> Steve G.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
The reason I don't think it has anything to do with the wheel/tire
combo is that it wobbles badly at slow speeds but is fine at high
speeds. I am not positive but I thought if the tires were not
balanced they would wobble at higher speeds rather then low. Also the
tires are not that old and still are in good shape. I would say less
then three years old and less the 10,000 miles. Good tread and no
rotting. Of course that does not mean that they are not borked
inside. Like I said I went through the jeep manual and went through
their list of things that could be wrong and came up with the pump. I
agree that it sounds very weird and I have no experience at all with
power steering pumps so you probably know better then me.
Could it be a blown bushing in the front suspension, or wheel bearing?
I will take a good look at it this weekend. I will inspect the
suspension and rotate the tires. If I go through with this
restoration I would defiantly get a bushing kit and just have at it.
I have another question, do anyone know if shocks have a shelf life?
My dad bought 2 complete sets of shocks some 8 years ago, we put one
set and held onto the other four. Are they any good to use or do they
loose pressure sitting on the shelf for so long?
Thanks again
Paul
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message news:<HIvQc.17294$gE.17210@pd7tw3no>...
> First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were the
> PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
> belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
> certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
> the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
> tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
> and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
> steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
> buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
> There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
> the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
> really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
> seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
> sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
> and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
> over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
> sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
> that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
> seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
> primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
> Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
> with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
> there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
> last indefinately.
> Steve G.
combo is that it wobbles badly at slow speeds but is fine at high
speeds. I am not positive but I thought if the tires were not
balanced they would wobble at higher speeds rather then low. Also the
tires are not that old and still are in good shape. I would say less
then three years old and less the 10,000 miles. Good tread and no
rotting. Of course that does not mean that they are not borked
inside. Like I said I went through the jeep manual and went through
their list of things that could be wrong and came up with the pump. I
agree that it sounds very weird and I have no experience at all with
power steering pumps so you probably know better then me.
Could it be a blown bushing in the front suspension, or wheel bearing?
I will take a good look at it this weekend. I will inspect the
suspension and rotate the tires. If I go through with this
restoration I would defiantly get a bushing kit and just have at it.
I have another question, do anyone know if shocks have a shelf life?
My dad bought 2 complete sets of shocks some 8 years ago, we put one
set and held onto the other four. Are they any good to use or do they
loose pressure sitting on the shelf for so long?
Thanks again
Paul
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message news:<HIvQc.17294$gE.17210@pd7tw3no>...
> First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were the
> PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
> belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
> certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
> the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
> tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
> and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
> steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
> buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
> There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
> the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
> really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
> seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
> sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
> and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
> over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
> sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
> that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
> seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
> primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
> Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
> with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
> there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
> last indefinately.
> Steve G.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
The reason I don't think it has anything to do with the wheel/tire
combo is that it wobbles badly at slow speeds but is fine at high
speeds. I am not positive but I thought if the tires were not
balanced they would wobble at higher speeds rather then low. Also the
tires are not that old and still are in good shape. I would say less
then three years old and less the 10,000 miles. Good tread and no
rotting. Of course that does not mean that they are not borked
inside. Like I said I went through the jeep manual and went through
their list of things that could be wrong and came up with the pump. I
agree that it sounds very weird and I have no experience at all with
power steering pumps so you probably know better then me.
Could it be a blown bushing in the front suspension, or wheel bearing?
I will take a good look at it this weekend. I will inspect the
suspension and rotate the tires. If I go through with this
restoration I would defiantly get a bushing kit and just have at it.
I have another question, do anyone know if shocks have a shelf life?
My dad bought 2 complete sets of shocks some 8 years ago, we put one
set and held onto the other four. Are they any good to use or do they
loose pressure sitting on the shelf for so long?
Thanks again
Paul
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message news:<HIvQc.17294$gE.17210@pd7tw3no>...
> First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were the
> PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
> belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
> certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
> the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
> tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
> and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
> steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
> buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
> There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
> the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
> really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
> seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
> sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
> and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
> over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
> sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
> that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
> seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
> primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
> Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
> with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
> there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
> last indefinately.
> Steve G.
combo is that it wobbles badly at slow speeds but is fine at high
speeds. I am not positive but I thought if the tires were not
balanced they would wobble at higher speeds rather then low. Also the
tires are not that old and still are in good shape. I would say less
then three years old and less the 10,000 miles. Good tread and no
rotting. Of course that does not mean that they are not borked
inside. Like I said I went through the jeep manual and went through
their list of things that could be wrong and came up with the pump. I
agree that it sounds very weird and I have no experience at all with
power steering pumps so you probably know better then me.
Could it be a blown bushing in the front suspension, or wheel bearing?
I will take a good look at it this weekend. I will inspect the
suspension and rotate the tires. If I go through with this
restoration I would defiantly get a bushing kit and just have at it.
I have another question, do anyone know if shocks have a shelf life?
My dad bought 2 complete sets of shocks some 8 years ago, we put one
set and held onto the other four. Are they any good to use or do they
loose pressure sitting on the shelf for so long?
Thanks again
Paul
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message news:<HIvQc.17294$gE.17210@pd7tw3no>...
> First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were the
> PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
> belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
> certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
> the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
> tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
> and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
> steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
> buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
> There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
> the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
> really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
> seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
> sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
> and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
> over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
> sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
> that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
> seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
> primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
> Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
> with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
> there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
> last indefinately.
> Steve G.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
The reason I don't think it has anything to do with the wheel/tire
combo is that it wobbles badly at slow speeds but is fine at high
speeds. I am not positive but I thought if the tires were not
balanced they would wobble at higher speeds rather then low. Also the
tires are not that old and still are in good shape. I would say less
then three years old and less the 10,000 miles. Good tread and no
rotting. Of course that does not mean that they are not borked
inside. Like I said I went through the jeep manual and went through
their list of things that could be wrong and came up with the pump. I
agree that it sounds very weird and I have no experience at all with
power steering pumps so you probably know better then me.
Could it be a blown bushing in the front suspension, or wheel bearing?
I will take a good look at it this weekend. I will inspect the
suspension and rotate the tires. If I go through with this
restoration I would defiantly get a bushing kit and just have at it.
I have another question, do anyone know if shocks have a shelf life?
My dad bought 2 complete sets of shocks some 8 years ago, we put one
set and held onto the other four. Are they any good to use or do they
loose pressure sitting on the shelf for so long?
Thanks again
Paul
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message news:<HIvQc.17294$gE.17210@pd7tw3no>...
> First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were the
> PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
> belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
> certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
> the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
> tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
> and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
> steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
> buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
> There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
> the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
> really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
> seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
> sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
> and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
> over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
> sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
> that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
> seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
> primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
> Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
> with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
> there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
> last indefinately.
> Steve G.
combo is that it wobbles badly at slow speeds but is fine at high
speeds. I am not positive but I thought if the tires were not
balanced they would wobble at higher speeds rather then low. Also the
tires are not that old and still are in good shape. I would say less
then three years old and less the 10,000 miles. Good tread and no
rotting. Of course that does not mean that they are not borked
inside. Like I said I went through the jeep manual and went through
their list of things that could be wrong and came up with the pump. I
agree that it sounds very weird and I have no experience at all with
power steering pumps so you probably know better then me.
Could it be a blown bushing in the front suspension, or wheel bearing?
I will take a good look at it this weekend. I will inspect the
suspension and rotate the tires. If I go through with this
restoration I would defiantly get a bushing kit and just have at it.
I have another question, do anyone know if shocks have a shelf life?
My dad bought 2 complete sets of shocks some 8 years ago, we put one
set and held onto the other four. Are they any good to use or do they
loose pressure sitting on the shelf for so long?
Thanks again
Paul
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message news:<HIvQc.17294$gE.17210@pd7tw3no>...
> First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were the
> PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord or
> belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but could
> certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires to
> the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to put
> tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old
> and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
> steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
> buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
> There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without encountering
> the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
> really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom
> seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
> sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes properly
> and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy primer
> over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there make
> sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know too
> that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've all
> seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
> primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
> Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start
> with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
> there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it
> last indefinately.
> Steve G.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
First off, on your steering issue, it's not a question of tire balance, it's
an issue of cord seperation in the tire. That's exactly how they behave,
can't feel it at higher speeds, but the wheel will rock in your hands as you
idle along. I'd damn near guarantee that you've got a bad tire. No to the
bushings and wheel bearings. Not the type of sympton they display at all.
Loose wheel bearing would have to be damn near falling off before the wheel
would wobble. Generally bearings get rough spots in them and you get a
droning noise and a fine vibration in the wheel, more like the tingling
you'd get if your hand fell asleep. Bushings all together diferent.
Erratic handling, tending to follow seams in the pavement and jump around,
not a steady rythmic wobble. Think about it, if you focus on the rotation
of your tire you can almost time the wobble in the steering wheel to each
revolution of the tire. Do a good visual of the tire. Jack the vehicle up
and have someone spin the tire by hand while you watch the tread. I'll bet
you'll see a spot where the tread "wobbles" a bit.
Shocks do have a shelf life, but I expect it's fairly long. Not all shocks
are gas filled. If they are not a gas filled shock and they are not leaking
oil they are probably fine. If they are a gas filled they will want to
extend themselve fully. If they do not they may have lost their gas charge,
but may dampen spring ocilations anyways. albeit not as well.
Steve G.
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408051809.24113193@posting.google.c om...
> The reason I don't think it has anything to do with the wheel/tire
> combo is that it wobbles badly at slow speeds but is fine at high
> speeds. I am not positive but I thought if the tires were not
> balanced they would wobble at higher speeds rather then low. Also the
> tires are not that old and still are in good shape. I would say less
> then three years old and less the 10,000 miles. Good tread and no
> rotting. Of course that does not mean that they are not borked
> inside. Like I said I went through the jeep manual and went through
> their list of things that could be wrong and came up with the pump. I
> agree that it sounds very weird and I have no experience at all with
> power steering pumps so you probably know better then me.
>
> Could it be a blown bushing in the front suspension, or wheel bearing?
> I will take a good look at it this weekend. I will inspect the
> suspension and rotate the tires. If I go through with this
> restoration I would defiantly get a bushing kit and just have at it.
>
> I have another question, do anyone know if shocks have a shelf life?
> My dad bought 2 complete sets of shocks some 8 years ago, we put one
> set and held onto the other four. Are they any good to use or do they
> loose pressure sitting on the shelf for so long?
>
> Thanks again
> Paul
>
>
>
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:<HIvQc.17294$gE.17210@pd7tw3no>...
> > First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were
the
> > PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord
or
> > belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but
could
> > certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires
to
> > the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to
put
> > tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as
old
> > and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
> > steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
> > buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
> > There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without
encountering
> > the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
> > really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the
bottom
> > seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top
and
> > sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes
properly
> > and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy
primer
> > over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there
make
> > sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know
too
> > that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've
all
> > seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
> > primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
> > Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts
start
> > with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
> > there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could
make it
> > last indefinately.
> > Steve G.
an issue of cord seperation in the tire. That's exactly how they behave,
can't feel it at higher speeds, but the wheel will rock in your hands as you
idle along. I'd damn near guarantee that you've got a bad tire. No to the
bushings and wheel bearings. Not the type of sympton they display at all.
Loose wheel bearing would have to be damn near falling off before the wheel
would wobble. Generally bearings get rough spots in them and you get a
droning noise and a fine vibration in the wheel, more like the tingling
you'd get if your hand fell asleep. Bushings all together diferent.
Erratic handling, tending to follow seams in the pavement and jump around,
not a steady rythmic wobble. Think about it, if you focus on the rotation
of your tire you can almost time the wobble in the steering wheel to each
revolution of the tire. Do a good visual of the tire. Jack the vehicle up
and have someone spin the tire by hand while you watch the tread. I'll bet
you'll see a spot where the tread "wobbles" a bit.
Shocks do have a shelf life, but I expect it's fairly long. Not all shocks
are gas filled. If they are not a gas filled shock and they are not leaking
oil they are probably fine. If they are a gas filled they will want to
extend themselve fully. If they do not they may have lost their gas charge,
but may dampen spring ocilations anyways. albeit not as well.
Steve G.
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408051809.24113193@posting.google.c om...
> The reason I don't think it has anything to do with the wheel/tire
> combo is that it wobbles badly at slow speeds but is fine at high
> speeds. I am not positive but I thought if the tires were not
> balanced they would wobble at higher speeds rather then low. Also the
> tires are not that old and still are in good shape. I would say less
> then three years old and less the 10,000 miles. Good tread and no
> rotting. Of course that does not mean that they are not borked
> inside. Like I said I went through the jeep manual and went through
> their list of things that could be wrong and came up with the pump. I
> agree that it sounds very weird and I have no experience at all with
> power steering pumps so you probably know better then me.
>
> Could it be a blown bushing in the front suspension, or wheel bearing?
> I will take a good look at it this weekend. I will inspect the
> suspension and rotate the tires. If I go through with this
> restoration I would defiantly get a bushing kit and just have at it.
>
> I have another question, do anyone know if shocks have a shelf life?
> My dad bought 2 complete sets of shocks some 8 years ago, we put one
> set and held onto the other four. Are they any good to use or do they
> loose pressure sitting on the shelf for so long?
>
> Thanks again
> Paul
>
>
>
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:<HIvQc.17294$gE.17210@pd7tw3no>...
> > First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it were
the
> > PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a broken cord
or
> > belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able to see it, but
could
> > certainly still feel it. First thing I would do is put the rear tires
to
> > the front and see if that makes a difference. Better yet would be to
put
> > tires of a known good quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as
old
> > and problematic as the front but you can't feel it because there's no
> > steering wheel attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a
> > buddy's jeep that does not display the problem would be best.
> > There really isn't a good way to replace the rockers without
encountering
> > the problems you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only
> > really work on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the
bottom
> > seam in place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top
and
> > sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes
properly
> > and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A good epoxy
primer
> > over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good start. From there
make
> > sure you cover it with good quality Urathane basecoat/clearcoat. Know
too
> > that most primers are not waterproof. They need to be sealed. We've
all
> > seen spots where someone has sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can
> > primer on it and seen the rust that develops right through the primer.
> > Once you've done all of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts
start
> > with a small chip in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from
> > there. Catch those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could
make it
> > last indefinately.
> > Steve G.
