First off I rotated the front tires to the back one at a time to see
which one had gone bad. Nothing changed in the steering as the fronts
went to the back. I inspected all of the tires and they all looked
good. No cracking or metal protrusion. I also tested the tires with
a straight edge and they all looked good. No wobble.

I then tried John's "wild a$$ed guess". I steered the wheels all the
way to the left and tried to spin the left tire. It was very
difficult but went I finally got it rotating it started to steer
itself back(to the right) in about a half of a turn it started to
steer itself to the left again. At about a full rotation it would
stop and I could not turn it in that direction. If I wanted it to
rotate I would have to go in the opposite direction to the way I was
originally turning. Then the whole process would start over until it
stopped in that direction. This would continue for a while until the
wheels finally straightened themselves out so they were faced dead
straight. I get no wobble when the wheels are facing straight and I
spin them. By the way this was all with the engine turned off, so I
no longer think it is the power steering.

I know that sounds really confusing so if you do not understand what I
trying to say, tell me and I will try again.

So is John right? Is it a universal joint?
As I was looking under the truck I do not even know if I would be able
to save any of the front suspension. All of the bolts are rusted to
hell. Can I clean these parts up or do they need to be replaced. For
example the sway bar, can I just clean all of the rust off and then
shoot it with a rust inhibiting paint? Everything is of coarse
covered in surface rust but the castle nuts and pins that go through
them are almost unrecognizable. Where to you guys get your suspension
parts from?

Thanks
Paul

> Paul,
>
> Paul <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote:
> > I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
> > wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
> > system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
> > ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>
> Just another wild a$$ed guess:
>
> Have you checked your front wheel universal joints? When my 1998 Cherokee's
> joints seized, I could "feel" it in the steering wheel, too.
>
> Here's what I did to check them, since I couldn't see the tell-tale "rust
> stains" coming from the bearing caps:
>
> Jack both front tires off the ground at the same time. Steer to "full-lock",
> either fully left or right. Attempt to spin either front tire. If spinning
> either front tire is extremely difficult, or causes the front tires to attempt
> to straighten out, then you may have found a frozen universal joint.
>
> Usually, you'll "feel" a frozen joint at all speeds when turning, but you never
> know...
>
> -John

 

First off I rotated the front tires to the back one at a time to see
which one had gone bad. Nothing changed in the steering as the fronts
went to the back. I inspected all of the tires and they all looked
good. No cracking or metal protrusion. I also tested the tires with
a straight edge and they all looked good. No wobble.

I then tried John's "wild a$$ed guess". I steered the wheels all the
way to the left and tried to spin the left tire. It was very
difficult but went I finally got it rotating it started to steer
itself back(to the right) in about a half of a turn it started to
steer itself to the left again. At about a full rotation it would
stop and I could not turn it in that direction. If I wanted it to
rotate I would have to go in the opposite direction to the way I was
originally turning. Then the whole process would start over until it
stopped in that direction. This would continue for a while until the
wheels finally straightened themselves out so they were faced dead
straight. I get no wobble when the wheels are facing straight and I
spin them. By the way this was all with the engine turned off, so I
no longer think it is the power steering.

I know that sounds really confusing so if you do not understand what I
trying to say, tell me and I will try again.

So is John right? Is it a universal joint?
As I was looking under the truck I do not even know if I would be able
to save any of the front suspension. All of the bolts are rusted to
hell. Can I clean these parts up or do they need to be replaced. For
example the sway bar, can I just clean all of the rust off and then
shoot it with a rust inhibiting paint? Everything is of coarse
covered in surface rust but the castle nuts and pins that go through
them are almost unrecognizable. Where to you guys get your suspension
parts from?

Thanks
Paul

> Paul,
>
> Paul <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote:
> > I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
> > wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
> > system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
> > ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>
> Just another wild a$$ed guess:
>
> Have you checked your front wheel universal joints? When my 1998 Cherokee's
> joints seized, I could "feel" it in the steering wheel, too.
>
> Here's what I did to check them, since I couldn't see the tell-tale "rust
> stains" coming from the bearing caps:
>
> Jack both front tires off the ground at the same time. Steer to "full-lock",
> either fully left or right. Attempt to spin either front tire. If spinning
> either front tire is extremely difficult, or causes the front tires to attempt
> to straighten out, then you may have found a frozen universal joint.
>
> Usually, you'll "feel" a frozen joint at all speeds when turning, but you never
> know...
>
> -John

 

First off I rotated the front tires to the back one at a time to see
which one had gone bad. Nothing changed in the steering as the fronts
went to the back. I inspected all of the tires and they all looked
good. No cracking or metal protrusion. I also tested the tires with
a straight edge and they all looked good. No wobble.

I then tried John's "wild a$$ed guess". I steered the wheels all the
way to the left and tried to spin the left tire. It was very
difficult but went I finally got it rotating it started to steer
itself back(to the right) in about a half of a turn it started to
steer itself to the left again. At about a full rotation it would
stop and I could not turn it in that direction. If I wanted it to
rotate I would have to go in the opposite direction to the way I was
originally turning. Then the whole process would start over until it
stopped in that direction. This would continue for a while until the
wheels finally straightened themselves out so they were faced dead
straight. I get no wobble when the wheels are facing straight and I
spin them. By the way this was all with the engine turned off, so I
no longer think it is the power steering.

I know that sounds really confusing so if you do not understand what I
trying to say, tell me and I will try again.

So is John right? Is it a universal joint?
As I was looking under the truck I do not even know if I would be able
to save any of the front suspension. All of the bolts are rusted to
hell. Can I clean these parts up or do they need to be replaced. For
example the sway bar, can I just clean all of the rust off and then
shoot it with a rust inhibiting paint? Everything is of coarse
covered in surface rust but the castle nuts and pins that go through
them are almost unrecognizable. Where to you guys get your suspension
parts from?

Thanks
Paul

> Paul,
>
> Paul <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote:
> > I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
> > wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
> > system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
> > ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>
> Just another wild a$$ed guess:
>
> Have you checked your front wheel universal joints? When my 1998 Cherokee's
> joints seized, I could "feel" it in the steering wheel, too.
>
> Here's what I did to check them, since I couldn't see the tell-tale "rust
> stains" coming from the bearing caps:
>
> Jack both front tires off the ground at the same time. Steer to "full-lock",
> either fully left or right. Attempt to spin either front tire. If spinning
> either front tire is extremely difficult, or causes the front tires to attempt
> to straighten out, then you may have found a frozen universal joint.
>
> Usually, you'll "feel" a frozen joint at all speeds when turning, but you never
> know...
>
> -John

 

Steve G wrote:
> First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it
> were the PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a
> broken cord or belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able
> to see it, but could certainly still feel it. First thing I would do
> is put the rear tires to the front and see if that makes a
> difference. Better yet would be to put tires of a known good
> quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old and problematic
> as the front but you can't feel it because there's no steering wheel
> attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a buddy's jeep
> that does not display the problem would be best. There really isn't
> a good way to replace the rockers without encountering the problems
> you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only really work
> on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom seam in
> place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
> sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes
> properly and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A
> good epoxy primer over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good
> start. From there make sure you cover it with good quality Urathane
> basecoat/clearcoat. Know too that most primers are not waterproof.
> They need to be sealed. We've all seen spots where someone has
> sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can primer on it and seen
> the rust that develops right through the primer. Once you've done all
> of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start with a small chip
> in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from there. Catch
> those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it last
> indefinately.
> Steve G.
> "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
> news:319414c5.0408050422.77000464@posting.google.c om...
>> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
>>> Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride
>>> in another car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't
>>> see the pump causing the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper
>>> is held on with two mounts each having 4 bolts. Laying on the
>>> ground they can be reached with a ratchet and socket, 14mm as I
>>> recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are under the
>>> doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back
>>> side of these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
>>>
>>> JoBo.
>>
>>
>> I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
>> wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
>> system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
>> ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>>
>> I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear
>> bumper is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust
>> holes in them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in
>> my initial post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
>>
>> About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels
>> are they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I
>> prime/rust proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker
>> panel and the rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the
>> chamber with rust proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld
>> the hole closed but then I am right back to where I stated, not
>> wanting to weld primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could
>> rust from the inside out since they will not be primed.
>>
>> Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
>> Thanks for the replies
>>
>> Paul

Imparare a quotare ,no è !

 

Steve G wrote:
> First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it
> were the PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a
> broken cord or belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able
> to see it, but could certainly still feel it. First thing I would do
> is put the rear tires to the front and see if that makes a
> difference. Better yet would be to put tires of a known good
> quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old and problematic
> as the front but you can't feel it because there's no steering wheel
> attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a buddy's jeep
> that does not display the problem would be best. There really isn't
> a good way to replace the rockers without encountering the problems
> you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only really work
> on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom seam in
> place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
> sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes
> properly and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A
> good epoxy primer over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good
> start. From there make sure you cover it with good quality Urathane
> basecoat/clearcoat. Know too that most primers are not waterproof.
> They need to be sealed. We've all seen spots where someone has
> sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can primer on it and seen
> the rust that develops right through the primer. Once you've done all
> of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start with a small chip
> in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from there. Catch
> those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it last
> indefinately.
> Steve G.
> "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
> news:319414c5.0408050422.77000464@posting.google.c om...
>> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
>>> Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride
>>> in another car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't
>>> see the pump causing the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper
>>> is held on with two mounts each having 4 bolts. Laying on the
>>> ground they can be reached with a ratchet and socket, 14mm as I
>>> recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are under the
>>> doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back
>>> side of these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
>>>
>>> JoBo.
>>
>>
>> I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
>> wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
>> system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
>> ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>>
>> I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear
>> bumper is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust
>> holes in them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in
>> my initial post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
>>
>> About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels
>> are they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I
>> prime/rust proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker
>> panel and the rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the
>> chamber with rust proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld
>> the hole closed but then I am right back to where I stated, not
>> wanting to weld primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could
>> rust from the inside out since they will not be primed.
>>
>> Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
>> Thanks for the replies
>>
>> Paul

Imparare a quotare ,no è !

 

Steve G wrote:
> First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it
> were the PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a
> broken cord or belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able
> to see it, but could certainly still feel it. First thing I would do
> is put the rear tires to the front and see if that makes a
> difference. Better yet would be to put tires of a known good
> quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old and problematic
> as the front but you can't feel it because there's no steering wheel
> attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a buddy's jeep
> that does not display the problem would be best. There really isn't
> a good way to replace the rockers without encountering the problems
> you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only really work
> on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom seam in
> place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
> sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes
> properly and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A
> good epoxy primer over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good
> start. From there make sure you cover it with good quality Urathane
> basecoat/clearcoat. Know too that most primers are not waterproof.
> They need to be sealed. We've all seen spots where someone has
> sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can primer on it and seen
> the rust that develops right through the primer. Once you've done all
> of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start with a small chip
> in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from there. Catch
> those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it last
> indefinately.
> Steve G.
> "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
> news:319414c5.0408050422.77000464@posting.google.c om...
>> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
>>> Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride
>>> in another car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't
>>> see the pump causing the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper
>>> is held on with two mounts each having 4 bolts. Laying on the
>>> ground they can be reached with a ratchet and socket, 14mm as I
>>> recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are under the
>>> doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back
>>> side of these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
>>>
>>> JoBo.
>>
>>
>> I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
>> wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
>> system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
>> ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>>
>> I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear
>> bumper is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust
>> holes in them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in
>> my initial post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
>>
>> About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels
>> are they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I
>> prime/rust proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker
>> panel and the rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the
>> chamber with rust proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld
>> the hole closed but then I am right back to where I stated, not
>> wanting to weld primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could
>> rust from the inside out since they will not be primed.
>>
>> Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
>> Thanks for the replies
>>
>> Paul

Imparare a quotare ,no è !

 

Steve G wrote:
> First off, on your steering issue, I would be very surprised if it
> were the PS pump. more like totally shocked. It is most probably a
> broken cord or belt in one of your front tires. You may not be able
> to see it, but could certainly still feel it. First thing I would do
> is put the rear tires to the front and see if that makes a
> difference. Better yet would be to put tires of a known good
> quality on the front, as your rear ones may be as old and problematic
> as the front but you can't feel it because there's no steering wheel
> attached to them. Borrowing a pair off the front of a buddy's jeep
> that does not display the problem would be best. There really isn't
> a good way to replace the rockers without encountering the problems
> you describe. There are weld thru primers, but they only really work
> on spot welded panels and while you could spotweld the bottom seam in
> place there would be no avoiding a butt or lap weld at the top and
> sides. More importantly is that you seal the welds and any holes
> properly and then use recommended paint procedures and products. A
> good epoxy primer over a surface treated with Picklex 20 makes a good
> start. From there make sure you cover it with good quality Urathane
> basecoat/clearcoat. Know too that most primers are not waterproof.
> They need to be sealed. We've all seen spots where someone has
> sanded to bare metal than shot rattle can primer on it and seen
> the rust that develops right through the primer. Once you've done all
> of that, keep an eye on them. Most rustouts start with a small chip
> in the paint or the seam sealer failing and grow from there. Catch
> those chips or flaking seam sealer early and you could make it last
> indefinately.
> Steve G.
> "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
> news:319414c5.0408050422.77000464@posting.google.c om...
>> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:<7vfQc.2473$1D4.1367@fe1.columbus.rr.com>...
>>> Sounds like a good project since the driveline is ok. I would ride
>>> in another car beside it to see if a tire or wheel wobbles. I can't
>>> see the pump causing the steering wheel to wobble. The rear bumper
>>> is held on with two mounts each having 4 bolts. Laying on the
>>> ground they can be reached with a ratchet and socket, 14mm as I
>>> recall but it could be 15mm. Also rocker panels are under the
>>> doors, not by the rear bumper. Rear quarter panels maybe. The back
>>> side of these panels can be reaches after removing the tail lights.
>>>
>>> JoBo.
>>
>>
>> I have already done your first suggestion and the tire/wheels do not
>> wobble at all, so thats why I think it is in the power steering
>> system. I have not looked at the service manual in a while but I am
>> ALMOST sure it is the pump.
>>
>> I guess I was not clear in my remarks about the rust. The rear
>> bumper is rusting out, and the rocker panels both have big rust
>> holes in them, directly under the rear doors. When I wrote that in
>> my initial post I was alittle ambiguous, sorry.
>>
>> About the rust proofing/galvanizing. If I order new rocker panels
>> are they going to be galvanized? Once I weld them on, how to I
>> prime/rust proof the inner chamber that is formed by the rocker
>> panel and the rest of the body. Do I drill a hole and fill the
>> chamber with rust proofing and then bondo the hole. I could weld
>> the hole closed but then I am right back to where I stated, not
>> wanting to weld primed/rust proofed metal. I guess the welds could
>> rust from the inside out since they will not be primed.
>>
>> Bill, thanks for the link, you learn something everyday.
>> Thanks for the replies
>>
>> Paul

Imparare a quotare ,no è !

 

Paul,

Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
joints, brakes, etc:

http://tinyurl.com/42skq

If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
and track bar. Replace as required:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm

Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.

Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org


Paul wrote:
> First off I rotated the front tires to the back one at a time to see
> which one had gone bad. Nothing changed in the steering as the fronts
> went to the back. I inspected all of the tires and they all looked
> good. No cracking or metal protrusion. I also tested the tires with
> a straight edge and they all looked good. No wobble.
>
> I then tried John's "wild a$$ed guess". I steered the wheels all the
> way to the left and tried to spin the left tire. It was very
> difficult but went I finally got it rotating it started to steer
> itself back(to the right) in about a half of a turn it started to
> steer itself to the left again. At about a full rotation it would
> stop and I could not turn it in that direction. If I wanted it to
> rotate I would have to go in the opposite direction to the way I was
> originally turning. Then the whole process would start over until it
> stopped in that direction. This would continue for a while until the
> wheels finally straightened themselves out so they were faced dead
> straight. I get no wobble when the wheels are facing straight and I
> spin them. By the way this was all with the engine turned off, so I
> no longer think it is the power steering.
>
> I know that sounds really confusing so if you do not understand what I
> trying to say, tell me and I will try again.
>
> So is John right? Is it a universal joint?
> As I was looking under the truck I do not even know if I would be able
> to save any of the front suspension. All of the bolts are rusted to
> hell. Can I clean these parts up or do they need to be replaced. For
> example the sway bar, can I just clean all of the rust off and then
> shoot it with a rust inhibiting paint? Everything is of coarse
> covered in surface rust but the castle nuts and pins that go through
> them are almost unrecognizable. Where to you guys get your suspension
> parts from?
>
> Thanks
> Paul

 

Paul,

Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
joints, brakes, etc:

http://tinyurl.com/42skq

If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
and track bar. Replace as required:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm

Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.

Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org


Paul wrote:
> First off I rotated the front tires to the back one at a time to see
> which one had gone bad. Nothing changed in the steering as the fronts
> went to the back. I inspected all of the tires and they all looked
> good. No cracking or metal protrusion. I also tested the tires with
> a straight edge and they all looked good. No wobble.
>
> I then tried John's "wild a$$ed guess". I steered the wheels all the
> way to the left and tried to spin the left tire. It was very
> difficult but went I finally got it rotating it started to steer
> itself back(to the right) in about a half of a turn it started to
> steer itself to the left again. At about a full rotation it would
> stop and I could not turn it in that direction. If I wanted it to
> rotate I would have to go in the opposite direction to the way I was
> originally turning. Then the whole process would start over until it
> stopped in that direction. This would continue for a while until the
> wheels finally straightened themselves out so they were faced dead
> straight. I get no wobble when the wheels are facing straight and I
> spin them. By the way this was all with the engine turned off, so I
> no longer think it is the power steering.
>
> I know that sounds really confusing so if you do not understand what I
> trying to say, tell me and I will try again.
>
> So is John right? Is it a universal joint?
> As I was looking under the truck I do not even know if I would be able
> to save any of the front suspension. All of the bolts are rusted to
> hell. Can I clean these parts up or do they need to be replaced. For
> example the sway bar, can I just clean all of the rust off and then
> shoot it with a rust inhibiting paint? Everything is of coarse
> covered in surface rust but the castle nuts and pins that go through
> them are almost unrecognizable. Where to you guys get your suspension
> parts from?
>
> Thanks
> Paul

 

Paul,

Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
joints, brakes, etc:

http://tinyurl.com/42skq

If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
and track bar. Replace as required:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm

Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.

Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org


Paul wrote:
> First off I rotated the front tires to the back one at a time to see
> which one had gone bad. Nothing changed in the steering as the fronts
> went to the back. I inspected all of the tires and they all looked
> good. No cracking or metal protrusion. I also tested the tires with
> a straight edge and they all looked good. No wobble.
>
> I then tried John's "wild a$$ed guess". I steered the wheels all the
> way to the left and tried to spin the left tire. It was very
> difficult but went I finally got it rotating it started to steer
> itself back(to the right) in about a half of a turn it started to
> steer itself to the left again. At about a full rotation it would
> stop and I could not turn it in that direction. If I wanted it to
> rotate I would have to go in the opposite direction to the way I was
> originally turning. Then the whole process would start over until it
> stopped in that direction. This would continue for a while until the
> wheels finally straightened themselves out so they were faced dead
> straight. I get no wobble when the wheels are facing straight and I
> spin them. By the way this was all with the engine turned off, so I
> no longer think it is the power steering.
>
> I know that sounds really confusing so if you do not understand what I
> trying to say, tell me and I will try again.
>
> So is John right? Is it a universal joint?
> As I was looking under the truck I do not even know if I would be able
> to save any of the front suspension. All of the bolts are rusted to
> hell. Can I clean these parts up or do they need to be replaced. For
> example the sway bar, can I just clean all of the rust off and then
> shoot it with a rust inhibiting paint? Everything is of coarse
> covered in surface rust but the castle nuts and pins that go through
> them are almost unrecognizable. Where to you guys get your suspension
> parts from?
>
> Thanks
> Paul