Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
I was able to get the clips off and pound out the ujoint with a hammer
but the seized up bearing caps refuse to come out. I have the shaft
in two pices but can not get the ujoint out of the outer axle shaft.
I will continue to pound and pull.
Paul
but the seized up bearing caps refuse to come out. I have the shaft
in two pices but can not get the ujoint out of the outer axle shaft.
I will continue to pound and pull.
Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
basically dust by the time I finished with them.
I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
reinstall everything.
So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
NOTE
And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
the way to go.
NOTE
For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
wrench into the gaps that form.
Paul
to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
basically dust by the time I finished with them.
I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
reinstall everything.
So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
NOTE
And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
the way to go.
NOTE
For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
wrench into the gaps that form.
Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
basically dust by the time I finished with them.
I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
reinstall everything.
So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
NOTE
And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
the way to go.
NOTE
For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
wrench into the gaps that form.
Paul
to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
basically dust by the time I finished with them.
I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
reinstall everything.
So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
NOTE
And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
the way to go.
NOTE
For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
wrench into the gaps that form.
Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
basically dust by the time I finished with them.
I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
reinstall everything.
So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
NOTE
And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
the way to go.
NOTE
For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
wrench into the gaps that form.
Paul
to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
basically dust by the time I finished with them.
I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
reinstall everything.
So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
NOTE
And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
the way to go.
NOTE
For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
wrench into the gaps that form.
Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
basically dust by the time I finished with them.
I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
reinstall everything.
So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
NOTE
And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
the way to go.
NOTE
For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
wrench into the gaps that form.
Paul
to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
basically dust by the time I finished with them.
I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
reinstall everything.
So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
NOTE
And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
the way to go.
NOTE
For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
wrench into the gaps that form.
Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of
job.
And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
What is wrong with a proper tool?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
$29.99
and here is a ball joint tool that should work
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
$39.99
and another bj tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
$59.99
Sometimes these tools go on sale!
I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
(replaced in May 2001).
I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
non-greaseable ones. :-)
I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> basically dust by the time I finished with them.
>
> I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> reinstall everything.
>
> So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
>
> NOTE
> And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> the way to go.
>
> NOTE
> For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> wrench into the gaps that form.
>
>
> Paul
job.
And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
What is wrong with a proper tool?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
$29.99
and here is a ball joint tool that should work
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
$39.99
and another bj tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
$59.99
Sometimes these tools go on sale!
I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
(replaced in May 2001).
I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
non-greaseable ones. :-)
I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> basically dust by the time I finished with them.
>
> I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> reinstall everything.
>
> So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
>
> NOTE
> And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> the way to go.
>
> NOTE
> For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> wrench into the gaps that form.
>
>
> Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of
job.
And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
What is wrong with a proper tool?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
$29.99
and here is a ball joint tool that should work
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
$39.99
and another bj tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
$59.99
Sometimes these tools go on sale!
I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
(replaced in May 2001).
I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
non-greaseable ones. :-)
I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> basically dust by the time I finished with them.
>
> I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> reinstall everything.
>
> So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
>
> NOTE
> And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> the way to go.
>
> NOTE
> For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> wrench into the gaps that form.
>
>
> Paul
job.
And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
What is wrong with a proper tool?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
$29.99
and here is a ball joint tool that should work
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
$39.99
and another bj tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
$59.99
Sometimes these tools go on sale!
I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
(replaced in May 2001).
I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
non-greaseable ones. :-)
I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> basically dust by the time I finished with them.
>
> I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> reinstall everything.
>
> So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
>
> NOTE
> And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> the way to go.
>
> NOTE
> For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> wrench into the gaps that form.
>
>
> Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of
job.
And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
What is wrong with a proper tool?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
$29.99
and here is a ball joint tool that should work
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
$39.99
and another bj tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
$59.99
Sometimes these tools go on sale!
I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
(replaced in May 2001).
I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
non-greaseable ones. :-)
I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> basically dust by the time I finished with them.
>
> I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> reinstall everything.
>
> So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
>
> NOTE
> And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> the way to go.
>
> NOTE
> For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> wrench into the gaps that form.
>
>
> Paul
job.
And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
What is wrong with a proper tool?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
$29.99
and here is a ball joint tool that should work
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
$39.99
and another bj tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
$59.99
Sometimes these tools go on sale!
I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
(replaced in May 2001).
I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
non-greaseable ones. :-)
I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> basically dust by the time I finished with them.
>
> I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> reinstall everything.
>
> So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
>
> NOTE
> And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> the way to go.
>
> NOTE
> For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> wrench into the gaps that form.
>
>
> Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of
job.
And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
What is wrong with a proper tool?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
$29.99
and here is a ball joint tool that should work
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
$39.99
and another bj tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
$59.99
Sometimes these tools go on sale!
I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
(replaced in May 2001).
I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
non-greaseable ones. :-)
I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> basically dust by the time I finished with them.
>
> I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> reinstall everything.
>
> So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
>
> NOTE
> And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> the way to go.
>
> NOTE
> For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> wrench into the gaps that form.
>
>
> Paul
job.
And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
What is wrong with a proper tool?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
$29.99
and here is a ball joint tool that should work
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
$39.99
and another bj tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
$59.99
Sometimes these tools go on sale!
I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
(replaced in May 2001).
I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
non-greaseable ones. :-)
I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> basically dust by the time I finished with them.
>
> I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> reinstall everything.
>
> So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
>
> NOTE
> And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> the way to go.
>
> NOTE
> For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> wrench into the gaps that form.
>
>
> Paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
There's even a little tool that's shaped like a little barrel with
a side cut out so as to slip into the area the the bearings have fallen
out of that makes it possible to push that cap all the way out. I just
use the first nut that'll fit. The Paul's use of a chisel was real
chancy, it may mushroomed the cap, really wedging it in there.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of
> job.
> And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
> safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
>
> What is wrong with a proper tool?
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
> $29.99
> and here is a ball joint tool that should work
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
> $39.99
> and another bj tool
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
> $59.99
>
> Sometimes these tools go on sale!
>
> I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
> (replaced in May 2001).
> I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
> Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
> non-greaseable ones. :-)
> I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
>
> JMHO
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
a side cut out so as to slip into the area the the bearings have fallen
out of that makes it possible to push that cap all the way out. I just
use the first nut that'll fit. The Paul's use of a chisel was real
chancy, it may mushroomed the cap, really wedging it in there.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of
> job.
> And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
> safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
>
> What is wrong with a proper tool?
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
> $29.99
> and here is a ball joint tool that should work
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
> $39.99
> and another bj tool
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
> $59.99
>
> Sometimes these tools go on sale!
>
> I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
> (replaced in May 2001).
> I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
> Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
> non-greaseable ones. :-)
> I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
>
> JMHO
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1