You are right and no tool is going to take the place of a BFG on rusted
caps or a lot of other Jeep parts. LOL!

If the caliper slide bolts are the same diameter as the hex ones, then I
would go with them. Those allen key holes are trouble when worn out.

Be wary though, I saw one supposed Jeep 'mechanic' put a set on a
friends and they were way smaller which allows his caliper to rattle
around. I think that is extremely dangerous, but he hasn't sheared one
off yet, soo 'maybe' it's ok, but...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Paul wrote:
>
> There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take
> off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to
> push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they
> you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for
> these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a
> hammer quickly and for free.
>
> Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those
> caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when
> doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they
> have a little common sense.
>
> Has anyone else had seized bearing caps? How have you gotten them off
> the u-joint?
>
> I would also recommend changing the u-joints before they seize up.
>
> I was going to replace the caliper pins because the hex area was
> rounded but I can not find the exact same pins. The auto parts places
> are trying to give me a replacement part that has a socket end instead
> of the hex end. Anyone have a suggestion?
>
> Paul
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <NO_vwdoc1_SPAM_@hotmail.com_PLEASE> wrote in message news:<STUSc.1643$ZC7.9@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com> ...
> > Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of
> > job.
> > And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
> > safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
> >
> > What is wrong with a proper tool?
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
> > $29.99
> > and here is a ball joint tool that should work
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
> > $39.99
> > and another bj tool
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
> > $59.99
> >
> > Sometimes these tools go on sale!
> >
> > I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
> > (replaced in May 2001).
> > I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
> > Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
> > non-greaseable ones. :-)
> > I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
> >
> > JMHO
> > later,
> > dave AKA vwdoc1
> >
> >
> > "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
> > news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> > > Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> > > to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> > > ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> > > finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> > > started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> > > and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> > > were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> > > basically dust by the time I finished with them.
> > >
> > > I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> > > reinstall everything.
> > >
> > > So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> > > when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> > > probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> > > know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> > > bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
> > >
> > > NOTE
> > > And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> > > the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> > > the way to go.
> > >
> > > NOTE
> > > For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> > > and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> > > Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> > > from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> > > wrench into the gaps that form.
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul

 

Looks to me like your only choice is to buy the replacement pin,
and the allen or torques wrench, too.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Paul wrote:
>
> There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take
> off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to
> push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they
> you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for
> these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a
> hammer quickly and for free.
>
> Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those
> caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when
> doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they
> have a little common sense.
>
> Has anyone else had seized bearing caps? How have you gotten them off
> the u-joint?
>
> I would also recommend changing the u-joints before they seize up.
>
> I was going to replace the caliper pins because the hex area was
> rounded but I can not find the exact same pins. The auto parts places
> are trying to give me a replacement part that has a socket end instead
> of the hex end. Anyone have a suggestion?
>
> Paul
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <NO_vwdoc1_SPAM_@hotmail.com_PLEASE> wrote in message news:<STUSc.1643$ZC7.9@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com> ...
> > Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of
> > job.
> > And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
> > safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
> >
> > What is wrong with a proper tool?
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
> > $29.99
> > and here is a ball joint tool that should work
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
> > $39.99
> > and another bj tool
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
> > $59.99
> >
> > Sometimes these tools go on sale!
> >
> > I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
> > (replaced in May 2001).
> > I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
> > Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
> > non-greaseable ones. :-)
> > I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
> >
> > JMHO
> > later,
> > dave AKA vwdoc1
> >
> >
> > "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
> > news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> > > Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> > > to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> > > ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> > > finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> > > started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> > > and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> > > were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> > > basically dust by the time I finished with them.
> > >
> > > I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> > > reinstall everything.
> > >
> > > So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> > > when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> > > probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> > > know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> > > bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
> > >
> > > NOTE
> > > And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> > > the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> > > the way to go.
> > >
> > > NOTE
> > > For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> > > and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> > > Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> > > from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> > > wrench into the gaps that form.
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul

 

Looks to me like your only choice is to buy the replacement pin,
and the allen or torques wrench, too.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Paul wrote:
>
> There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take
> off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to
> push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they
> you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for
> these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a
> hammer quickly and for free.
>
> Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those
> caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when
> doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they
> have a little common sense.
>
> Has anyone else had seized bearing caps? How have you gotten them off
> the u-joint?
>
> I would also recommend changing the u-joints before they seize up.
>
> I was going to replace the caliper pins because the hex area was
> rounded but I can not find the exact same pins. The auto parts places
> are trying to give me a replacement part that has a socket end instead
> of the hex end. Anyone have a suggestion?
>
> Paul
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <NO_vwdoc1_SPAM_@hotmail.com_PLEASE> wrote in message news:<STUSc.1643$ZC7.9@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com> ...
> > Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of
> > job.
> > And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
> > safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
> >
> > What is wrong with a proper tool?
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
> > $29.99
> > and here is a ball joint tool that should work
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
> > $39.99
> > and another bj tool
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
> > $59.99
> >
> > Sometimes these tools go on sale!
> >
> > I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
> > (replaced in May 2001).
> > I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
> > Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
> > non-greaseable ones. :-)
> > I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
> >
> > JMHO
> > later,
> > dave AKA vwdoc1
> >
> >
> > "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
> > news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> > > Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> > > to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> > > ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> > > finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> > > started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> > > and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> > > were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> > > basically dust by the time I finished with them.
> > >
> > > I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> > > reinstall everything.
> > >
> > > So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> > > when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> > > probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> > > know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> > > bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
> > >
> > > NOTE
> > > And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> > > the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> > > the way to go.
> > >
> > > NOTE
> > > For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> > > and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> > > Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> > > from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> > > wrench into the gaps that form.
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul

 

Looks to me like your only choice is to buy the replacement pin,
and the allen or torques wrench, too.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Paul wrote:
>
> There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take
> off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to
> push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they
> you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for
> these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a
> hammer quickly and for free.
>
> Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those
> caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when
> doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they
> have a little common sense.
>
> Has anyone else had seized bearing caps? How have you gotten them off
> the u-joint?
>
> I would also recommend changing the u-joints before they seize up.
>
> I was going to replace the caliper pins because the hex area was
> rounded but I can not find the exact same pins. The auto parts places
> are trying to give me a replacement part that has a socket end instead
> of the hex end. Anyone have a suggestion?
>
> Paul
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <NO_vwdoc1_SPAM_@hotmail.com_PLEASE> wrote in message news:<STUSc.1643$ZC7.9@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com> ...
> > Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of
> > job.
> > And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
> > safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
> >
> > What is wrong with a proper tool?
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
> > $29.99
> > and here is a ball joint tool that should work
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
> > $39.99
> > and another bj tool
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
> > $59.99
> >
> > Sometimes these tools go on sale!
> >
> > I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
> > (replaced in May 2001).
> > I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
> > Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
> > non-greaseable ones. :-)
> > I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
> >
> > JMHO
> > later,
> > dave AKA vwdoc1
> >
> >
> > "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
> > news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> > > Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> > > to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> > > ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> > > finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> > > started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> > > and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> > > were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> > > basically dust by the time I finished with them.
> > >
> > > I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> > > reinstall everything.
> > >
> > > So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> > > when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> > > probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> > > know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> > > bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
> > >
> > > NOTE
> > > And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> > > the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> > > the way to go.
> > >
> > > NOTE
> > > For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> > > and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> > > Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> > > from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> > > wrench into the gaps that form.
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul

 

Looks to me like your only choice is to buy the replacement pin,
and the allen or torques wrench, too.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Paul wrote:
>
> There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take
> off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to
> push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they
> you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for
> these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a
> hammer quickly and for free.
>
> Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those
> caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when
> doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they
> have a little common sense.
>
> Has anyone else had seized bearing caps? How have you gotten them off
> the u-joint?
>
> I would also recommend changing the u-joints before they seize up.
>
> I was going to replace the caliper pins because the hex area was
> rounded but I can not find the exact same pins. The auto parts places
> are trying to give me a replacement part that has a socket end instead
> of the hex end. Anyone have a suggestion?
>
> Paul
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <NO_vwdoc1_SPAM_@hotmail.com_PLEASE> wrote in message news:<STUSc.1643$ZC7.9@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com> ...
> > Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of
> > job.
> > And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good
> > safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!!
> >
> > What is wrong with a proper tool?
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694
> > $29.99
> > and here is a ball joint tool that should work
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
> > $39.99
> > and another bj tool
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236
> > $59.99
> >
> > Sometimes these tools go on sale!
> >
> > I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again
> > (replaced in May 2001).
> > I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol
> > Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the
> > non-greaseable ones. :-)
> > I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes!
> >
> > JMHO
> > later,
> > dave AKA vwdoc1
> >
> >
> > "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message
> > news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m...
> > > Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult
> > > to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the
> > > ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap
> > > finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings
> > > started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps
> > > and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing
> > > were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were
> > > basically dust by the time I finished with them.
> > >
> > > I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to
> > > reinstall everything.
> > >
> > > So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens
> > > when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will
> > > probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I
> > > know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial
> > > bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help.
> > >
> > > NOTE
> > > And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to
> > > the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are
> > > the way to go.
> > >
> > > NOTE
> > > For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap
> > > and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack.
> > > Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away
> > > from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid
> > > wrench into the gaps that form.
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul

 

OK OK you win!
BFH it is then! lol
Just be safe and use your common sense.

I just did my XJ's Left Side U-Joint, but I used my 20 ton press.
I actually thought those tools from Harbor Freight would have made it
easier, but according to you guys maybe not.
I have heard of people using a good vise clamp, but maybe that was just for
installation.
I'll save my money and not buy one of them either, unless someone wants me
to try them out! <g>
The tools I provided links for should allow you to push the u-joint so that
one cap is almost push out of the yoke, then push the u-joint the other way
and push the other cap through the yoke.
One tool description says "Remove even the most stubborn U-joint with ease"
At least that is what I think it should do! :-)
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto
88 FSJ-GW 360 auto (GRAND 88)
Chicago


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:411D011A.F81E63B7@sympatico.ca...
> You are right and no tool is going to take the place of a BFG on rusted
> caps or a lot of other Jeep parts. LOL!
>
> If the caliper slide bolts are the same diameter as the hex ones, then I
> would go with them. Those allen key holes are trouble when worn out.
>
> Be wary though, I saw one supposed Jeep 'mechanic' put a set on a
> friends and they were way smaller which allows his caliper to rattle
> around. I think that is extremely dangerous, but he hasn't sheared one
> off yet, soo 'maybe' it's ok, but...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul wrote:
> >
> > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take
> > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to
> > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they
> > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for
> > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a
> > hammer quickly and for free.
> >
> > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those
> > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when
> > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they
> > have a little common sense.

 

OK OK you win!
BFH it is then! lol
Just be safe and use your common sense.

I just did my XJ's Left Side U-Joint, but I used my 20 ton press.
I actually thought those tools from Harbor Freight would have made it
easier, but according to you guys maybe not.
I have heard of people using a good vise clamp, but maybe that was just for
installation.
I'll save my money and not buy one of them either, unless someone wants me
to try them out! <g>
The tools I provided links for should allow you to push the u-joint so that
one cap is almost push out of the yoke, then push the u-joint the other way
and push the other cap through the yoke.
One tool description says "Remove even the most stubborn U-joint with ease"
At least that is what I think it should do! :-)
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto
88 FSJ-GW 360 auto (GRAND 88)
Chicago


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:411D011A.F81E63B7@sympatico.ca...
> You are right and no tool is going to take the place of a BFG on rusted
> caps or a lot of other Jeep parts. LOL!
>
> If the caliper slide bolts are the same diameter as the hex ones, then I
> would go with them. Those allen key holes are trouble when worn out.
>
> Be wary though, I saw one supposed Jeep 'mechanic' put a set on a
> friends and they were way smaller which allows his caliper to rattle
> around. I think that is extremely dangerous, but he hasn't sheared one
> off yet, soo 'maybe' it's ok, but...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul wrote:
> >
> > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take
> > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to
> > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they
> > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for
> > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a
> > hammer quickly and for free.
> >
> > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those
> > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when
> > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they
> > have a little common sense.

 

OK OK you win!
BFH it is then! lol
Just be safe and use your common sense.

I just did my XJ's Left Side U-Joint, but I used my 20 ton press.
I actually thought those tools from Harbor Freight would have made it
easier, but according to you guys maybe not.
I have heard of people using a good vise clamp, but maybe that was just for
installation.
I'll save my money and not buy one of them either, unless someone wants me
to try them out! <g>
The tools I provided links for should allow you to push the u-joint so that
one cap is almost push out of the yoke, then push the u-joint the other way
and push the other cap through the yoke.
One tool description says "Remove even the most stubborn U-joint with ease"
At least that is what I think it should do! :-)
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto
88 FSJ-GW 360 auto (GRAND 88)
Chicago


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:411D011A.F81E63B7@sympatico.ca...
> You are right and no tool is going to take the place of a BFG on rusted
> caps or a lot of other Jeep parts. LOL!
>
> If the caliper slide bolts are the same diameter as the hex ones, then I
> would go with them. Those allen key holes are trouble when worn out.
>
> Be wary though, I saw one supposed Jeep 'mechanic' put a set on a
> friends and they were way smaller which allows his caliper to rattle
> around. I think that is extremely dangerous, but he hasn't sheared one
> off yet, soo 'maybe' it's ok, but...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul wrote:
> >
> > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take
> > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to
> > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they
> > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for
> > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a
> > hammer quickly and for free.
> >
> > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those
> > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when
> > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they
> > have a little common sense.

 

OK OK you win!
BFH it is then! lol
Just be safe and use your common sense.

I just did my XJ's Left Side U-Joint, but I used my 20 ton press.
I actually thought those tools from Harbor Freight would have made it
easier, but according to you guys maybe not.
I have heard of people using a good vise clamp, but maybe that was just for
installation.
I'll save my money and not buy one of them either, unless someone wants me
to try them out! <g>
The tools I provided links for should allow you to push the u-joint so that
one cap is almost push out of the yoke, then push the u-joint the other way
and push the other cap through the yoke.
One tool description says "Remove even the most stubborn U-joint with ease"
At least that is what I think it should do! :-)
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto
88 FSJ-GW 360 auto (GRAND 88)
Chicago


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:411D011A.F81E63B7@sympatico.ca...
> You are right and no tool is going to take the place of a BFG on rusted
> caps or a lot of other Jeep parts. LOL!
>
> If the caliper slide bolts are the same diameter as the hex ones, then I
> would go with them. Those allen key holes are trouble when worn out.
>
> Be wary though, I saw one supposed Jeep 'mechanic' put a set on a
> friends and they were way smaller which allows his caliper to rattle
> around. I think that is extremely dangerous, but he hasn't sheared one
> off yet, soo 'maybe' it's ok, but...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul wrote:
> >
> > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take
> > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to
> > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they
> > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for
> > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a
> > hammer quickly and for free.
> >
> > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those
> > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when
> > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they
> > have a little common sense.