Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
Thanks for the tips Mike!! I've never used these other products but yep
they'd be worth using I'm sure. Have a preference for PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench? Have a really great little ACE hardware here that I bet has both. Also, if you've never tried TriFlow teflon lube it's a great product too. I use it on my bicycle chains and it doesn't grab as much dirt as WD-40 does and it's really slippery stuff- you can feel a big difference in pedaling effort. Having to learn about these specialized lubes and such since I'm now in salt air/sand blast all the time. Never needed anything except WD-40 before heh. Skip "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:4002B383.4E42B99E@sympatico.ca... > One tip, save the WD40 for things that get wet and need to be dried. It > is a great water displacement fluid, but it totally sucks as a > penetrating fluid. > > Get something like PB Blaster or liquid wrench. They will do in an hour > what WD40 takes 3 days to loosen up. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > m wrote: > > > > Thanks much. > > > > Was banging on the exposed ends of the u-joint without bearing cups and not > > the yoke... but sounds like I should just bang on the bearing cups. > > > > For some reason the it looked like the bearing cups on the new u-joints were > > tapered (with the wider end at the outside)... so that if I tried to drive > > the old ones out the other side, it would just seat the bearing cup even > > worse. If they're not tapered then sounds a lot easier. Maybe will be ok > > tomorrow after the WD-40 bath. > > > > As far as "walking the bearings out" I was ripping off the term I saw in > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html as provided by > > L.W. (ßill) ------ III. ;o) > > > > The cups at the rear, held in by the straps, were the easiest... and the > > cups at the journal cross came out fairly easily too. > > > > "Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-4jeDB3OvUQhn@anon.none.net... > > > I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual > > > method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place > > > (one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a > > > receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup > > > into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will > > > push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up > > > turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I > > > finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using > > > BMFH tool. > > > > > > The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing. > > > You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release > > > the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why > > > worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well > > > as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless > > > you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it > > > together again. > > > > > > On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote: > > > > > > > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder... > > > > > > > > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o) > > > > > > > > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island > > about 2 > > > > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the > > > > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a > > major > > > > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on > > the > > > > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control. > > > > > > > > At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose > > using a > > > > liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the > > > > xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new > > gear > > > > oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice > > and > > > > clear. > > > > > > > > So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not > > in a > > > > critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to > > "walk > > > > out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing > > > > caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new > > > > condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining > > > > straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to > > re-use > > > > those?) > > > > > > > > Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing > > caps) > > > > trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on > > the > > > > mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he > > mentioned a > > > > torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel > > at > > > > the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that. > > > > > > > > What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some > > > > freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic? > > > > > > > > (==============================) > > > > > > > > So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add > > brake > > > > fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the > > slave > > > > so I could drive the Jeep. > > > > > > > > However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the > > > > chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then > > look at > > > > the reservoir, I see a lot of > > > > small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So > > I'm > > > > wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are > > > > introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission > > is > > > > external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that > > > > feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder. > > > > > > > > In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a > > "rust > > > > converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep > > had > > > > hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got > > down > > > > here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal > > with > > > > some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit > > to > > > > the body shop is coming up as well. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > > > > news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@cox.net... > > > > > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this > > > > > brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg > > > > > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without > > > > > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at: > > > > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > > > > > > > > > m wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts. > > > > > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net> |
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
Thanks for the tips Mike!! I've never used these other products but yep
they'd be worth using I'm sure. Have a preference for PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench? Have a really great little ACE hardware here that I bet has both. Also, if you've never tried TriFlow teflon lube it's a great product too. I use it on my bicycle chains and it doesn't grab as much dirt as WD-40 does and it's really slippery stuff- you can feel a big difference in pedaling effort. Having to learn about these specialized lubes and such since I'm now in salt air/sand blast all the time. Never needed anything except WD-40 before heh. Skip "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:4002B383.4E42B99E@sympatico.ca... > One tip, save the WD40 for things that get wet and need to be dried. It > is a great water displacement fluid, but it totally sucks as a > penetrating fluid. > > Get something like PB Blaster or liquid wrench. They will do in an hour > what WD40 takes 3 days to loosen up. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > m wrote: > > > > Thanks much. > > > > Was banging on the exposed ends of the u-joint without bearing cups and not > > the yoke... but sounds like I should just bang on the bearing cups. > > > > For some reason the it looked like the bearing cups on the new u-joints were > > tapered (with the wider end at the outside)... so that if I tried to drive > > the old ones out the other side, it would just seat the bearing cup even > > worse. If they're not tapered then sounds a lot easier. Maybe will be ok > > tomorrow after the WD-40 bath. > > > > As far as "walking the bearings out" I was ripping off the term I saw in > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html as provided by > > L.W. (ßill) ------ III. ;o) > > > > The cups at the rear, held in by the straps, were the easiest... and the > > cups at the journal cross came out fairly easily too. > > > > "Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-4jeDB3OvUQhn@anon.none.net... > > > I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual > > > method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place > > > (one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a > > > receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup > > > into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will > > > push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up > > > turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I > > > finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using > > > BMFH tool. > > > > > > The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing. > > > You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release > > > the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why > > > worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well > > > as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless > > > you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it > > > together again. > > > > > > On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote: > > > > > > > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder... > > > > > > > > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o) > > > > > > > > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island > > about 2 > > > > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the > > > > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a > > major > > > > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on > > the > > > > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control. > > > > > > > > At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose > > using a > > > > liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the > > > > xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new > > gear > > > > oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice > > and > > > > clear. > > > > > > > > So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not > > in a > > > > critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to > > "walk > > > > out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing > > > > caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new > > > > condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining > > > > straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to > > re-use > > > > those?) > > > > > > > > Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing > > caps) > > > > trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on > > the > > > > mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he > > mentioned a > > > > torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel > > at > > > > the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that. > > > > > > > > What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some > > > > freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic? > > > > > > > > (==============================) > > > > > > > > So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add > > brake > > > > fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the > > slave > > > > so I could drive the Jeep. > > > > > > > > However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the > > > > chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then > > look at > > > > the reservoir, I see a lot of > > > > small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So > > I'm > > > > wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are > > > > introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission > > is > > > > external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that > > > > feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder. > > > > > > > > In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a > > "rust > > > > converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep > > had > > > > hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got > > down > > > > here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal > > with > > > > some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit > > to > > > > the body shop is coming up as well. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > > > > news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@cox.net... > > > > > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this > > > > > brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg > > > > > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without > > > > > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at: > > > > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > > > > > > > > > m wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts. > > > > > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net> |
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
<m> wrote in message news:<btugng0rqm@enews3.newsguy.com>...
> Oh that's a big 10-4 on the 30 mile run up to the cut. I did that first > thing after I got the jeep over here on the ferry while the bridge was out. > I need to get some wider tires and rims at some point but I've gotten pretty > good at staying un-stuck. Wish the topside of the jeep was in as good shape > as the underside is. Slopped some Napasco on the driveshaft and might need > some in a couple of other spots underneath but looks like it will outlast > the topside. Leaf springs need it too but they did a good job of rubberizing > most of the underside at the factory. Hey do you know a good body shop > around here? > > Great to see the sunshine this week after that danged overcast crap, eh? > > Skip > (m=Skip by the way... I hate spam and finally got it under control lol) > Hi Skip, Negative on the body shop...I'm a budding Jeeper..still learning the trades and still learning the basics. I did take my Jeep into the local Jeep dealership in Brownsville (Don Johnson) and would not rate them very highly--they forgot to do a few of the items that I told them to do. So I had to do it myself. Oh well, learned anyways. Feel free to shoot an email my way (nickm@rgv.rr.DIESPAMMERScom). |
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
<m> wrote in message news:<btugng0rqm@enews3.newsguy.com>...
> Oh that's a big 10-4 on the 30 mile run up to the cut. I did that first > thing after I got the jeep over here on the ferry while the bridge was out. > I need to get some wider tires and rims at some point but I've gotten pretty > good at staying un-stuck. Wish the topside of the jeep was in as good shape > as the underside is. Slopped some Napasco on the driveshaft and might need > some in a couple of other spots underneath but looks like it will outlast > the topside. Leaf springs need it too but they did a good job of rubberizing > most of the underside at the factory. Hey do you know a good body shop > around here? > > Great to see the sunshine this week after that danged overcast crap, eh? > > Skip > (m=Skip by the way... I hate spam and finally got it under control lol) > Hi Skip, Negative on the body shop...I'm a budding Jeeper..still learning the trades and still learning the basics. I did take my Jeep into the local Jeep dealership in Brownsville (Don Johnson) and would not rate them very highly--they forgot to do a few of the items that I told them to do. So I had to do it myself. Oh well, learned anyways. Feel free to shoot an email my way (nickm@rgv.rr.DIESPAMMERScom). |
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
<m> wrote in message news:<btugng0rqm@enews3.newsguy.com>...
> Oh that's a big 10-4 on the 30 mile run up to the cut. I did that first > thing after I got the jeep over here on the ferry while the bridge was out. > I need to get some wider tires and rims at some point but I've gotten pretty > good at staying un-stuck. Wish the topside of the jeep was in as good shape > as the underside is. Slopped some Napasco on the driveshaft and might need > some in a couple of other spots underneath but looks like it will outlast > the topside. Leaf springs need it too but they did a good job of rubberizing > most of the underside at the factory. Hey do you know a good body shop > around here? > > Great to see the sunshine this week after that danged overcast crap, eh? > > Skip > (m=Skip by the way... I hate spam and finally got it under control lol) > Hi Skip, Negative on the body shop...I'm a budding Jeeper..still learning the trades and still learning the basics. I did take my Jeep into the local Jeep dealership in Brownsville (Don Johnson) and would not rate them very highly--they forgot to do a few of the items that I told them to do. So I had to do it myself. Oh well, learned anyways. Feel free to shoot an email my way (nickm@rgv.rr.DIESPAMMERScom). |
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