Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

I have found that if you loosen all three bolts with a 12 point 13 mm
socket, then thread them back in a few turns put a 12 point 13 mm socket on
the one that you are using an air hammer on and rotate around the three
bolts they come right out. Make sure to use lots of anti seize on them when
you put it back together and it is a piece of cake.

Gary
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:3FFDA7EA.E3F1AEB6@cox.net...
> Hi Mike,
> It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
> of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
> knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
> Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> > hubs.
> >
> > They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> > mechanic.
> >
> > I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Roy J wrote:
> > >
> > > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> > >
> > > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > > to drive it to work in the AM
> > >
> > > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > >
> > > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to
protect
> > > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > Roy J wrote:
> > > >
> > > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > > >>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

I have found that if you loosen all three bolts with a 12 point 13 mm
socket, then thread them back in a few turns put a 12 point 13 mm socket on
the one that you are using an air hammer on and rotate around the three
bolts they come right out. Make sure to use lots of anti seize on them when
you put it back together and it is a piece of cake.

Gary
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:3FFDA7EA.E3F1AEB6@cox.net...
> Hi Mike,
> It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
> of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
> knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
> Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> > hubs.
> >
> > They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> > mechanic.
> >
> > I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Roy J wrote:
> > >
> > > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> > >
> > > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > > to drive it to work in the AM
> > >
> > > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > >
> > > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to
protect
> > > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > Roy J wrote:
> > > >
> > > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > > >>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

I have found that if you loosen all three bolts with a 12 point 13 mm
socket, then thread them back in a few turns put a 12 point 13 mm socket on
the one that you are using an air hammer on and rotate around the three
bolts they come right out. Make sure to use lots of anti seize on them when
you put it back together and it is a piece of cake.

Gary
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:3FFDA7EA.E3F1AEB6@cox.net...
> Hi Mike,
> It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
> of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
> knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
> Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> > hubs.
> >
> > They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> > mechanic.
> >
> > I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Roy J wrote:
> > >
> > > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> > >
> > > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > > to drive it to work in the AM
> > >
> > > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > >
> > > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to
protect
> > > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > Roy J wrote:
> > > >
> > > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > > >>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

It's not the bolts, its the hub to knuckle that rusts in tight.

g a r y a n d k a t e wrote:
> I have found that if you loosen all three bolts with a 12 point 13 mm
> socket, then thread them back in a few turns put a 12 point 13 mm socket on
> the one that you are using an air hammer on and rotate around the three
> bolts they come right out. Make sure to use lots of anti seize on themwhen
> you put it back together and it is a piece of cake.
>
> Gary
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:3FFDA7EA.E3F1AEB6@cox.net...
>
>>Hi Mike,
>> It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
>>of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
>>knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
>>Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
>>>hubs.
>>>
>>>They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
>>>mechanic.
>>>
>>>I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Roy J wrote:
>>>
>>>>A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
>>>>hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
>>>>but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
>>>>to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
>>>>iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
>>>>railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
>>>>
>>>>But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
>>>>never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
>>>>he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
>>>>if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
>>>>Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
>>>>can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
>>>>to drive it to work in the AM
>>>>
>>>>L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to
>
> protect
>
>>>>>the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
>>>>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>>
>>>>>Roy J wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
>>>>>>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
>>>>>>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
>>>>>>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
>>>>>>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
>>>>>>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
>>>>>>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
>>>>>>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
>>>>>>mashed threads, etc.
>
>
>

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

It's not the bolts, its the hub to knuckle that rusts in tight.

g a r y a n d k a t e wrote:
> I have found that if you loosen all three bolts with a 12 point 13 mm
> socket, then thread them back in a few turns put a 12 point 13 mm socket on
> the one that you are using an air hammer on and rotate around the three
> bolts they come right out. Make sure to use lots of anti seize on themwhen
> you put it back together and it is a piece of cake.
>
> Gary
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:3FFDA7EA.E3F1AEB6@cox.net...
>
>>Hi Mike,
>> It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
>>of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
>>knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
>>Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
>>>hubs.
>>>
>>>They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
>>>mechanic.
>>>
>>>I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Roy J wrote:
>>>
>>>>A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
>>>>hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
>>>>but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
>>>>to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
>>>>iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
>>>>railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
>>>>
>>>>But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
>>>>never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
>>>>he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
>>>>if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
>>>>Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
>>>>can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
>>>>to drive it to work in the AM
>>>>
>>>>L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to
>
> protect
>
>>>>>the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
>>>>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>>
>>>>>Roy J wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
>>>>>>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
>>>>>>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
>>>>>>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
>>>>>>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
>>>>>>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
>>>>>>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
>>>>>>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
>>>>>>mashed threads, etc.
>
>
>

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

It's not the bolts, its the hub to knuckle that rusts in tight.

g a r y a n d k a t e wrote:
> I have found that if you loosen all three bolts with a 12 point 13 mm
> socket, then thread them back in a few turns put a 12 point 13 mm socket on
> the one that you are using an air hammer on and rotate around the three
> bolts they come right out. Make sure to use lots of anti seize on themwhen
> you put it back together and it is a piece of cake.
>
> Gary
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:3FFDA7EA.E3F1AEB6@cox.net...
>
>>Hi Mike,
>> It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
>>of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
>>knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
>>Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
>>>hubs.
>>>
>>>They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
>>>mechanic.
>>>
>>>I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Roy J wrote:
>>>
>>>>A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
>>>>hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
>>>>but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
>>>>to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
>>>>iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
>>>>railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
>>>>
>>>>But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
>>>>never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
>>>>he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
>>>>if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
>>>>Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
>>>>can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
>>>>to drive it to work in the AM
>>>>
>>>>L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to
>
> protect
>
>>>>>the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
>>>>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>>
>>>>>Roy J wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
>>>>>>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
>>>>>>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
>>>>>>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
>>>>>>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
>>>>>>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
>>>>>>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
>>>>>>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
>>>>>>mashed threads, etc.
>
>
>

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

I am missing something....

The bolts are on the back and suck the hub into the socket. The bolts
need to be pounded on to force the hub out of it's socket.

I don't have any trouble at all getting the bolts out, it's the hub
that's the problem.

Mike

g a r y a n d k a t e wrote:
>
> I have found that if you loosen all three bolts with a 12 point 13 mm
> socket, then thread them back in a few turns put a 12 point 13 mm socket on
> the one that you are using an air hammer on and rotate around the three
> bolts they come right out. Make sure to use lots of anti seize on them when
> you put it back together and it is a piece of cake.
>
> Gary
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:3FFDA7EA.E3F1AEB6@cox.net...
> > Hi Mike,
> > It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
> > of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
> > knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
> > Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> > > hubs.
> > >
> > > They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> > > mechanic.
> > >
> > > I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Roy J wrote:
> > > >
> > > > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > > > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > > > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > > > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > > > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > > > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> > > >
> > > > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > > > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > > > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > > > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > > > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > > > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > > > to drive it to work in the AM
> > > >
> > > > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to
> protect
> > > > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > Roy J wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > > > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > > > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > > > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > > > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > > > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > > > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > > > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > > > >>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

I am missing something....

The bolts are on the back and suck the hub into the socket. The bolts
need to be pounded on to force the hub out of it's socket.

I don't have any trouble at all getting the bolts out, it's the hub
that's the problem.

Mike

g a r y a n d k a t e wrote:
>
> I have found that if you loosen all three bolts with a 12 point 13 mm
> socket, then thread them back in a few turns put a 12 point 13 mm socket on
> the one that you are using an air hammer on and rotate around the three
> bolts they come right out. Make sure to use lots of anti seize on them when
> you put it back together and it is a piece of cake.
>
> Gary
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:3FFDA7EA.E3F1AEB6@cox.net...
> > Hi Mike,
> > It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
> > of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
> > knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
> > Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> > > hubs.
> > >
> > > They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> > > mechanic.
> > >
> > > I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Roy J wrote:
> > > >
> > > > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > > > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > > > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > > > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > > > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > > > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> > > >
> > > > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > > > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > > > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > > > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > > > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > > > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > > > to drive it to work in the AM
> > > >
> > > > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to
> protect
> > > > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > Roy J wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > > > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > > > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > > > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > > > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > > > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > > > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > > > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > > > >>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

I am missing something....

The bolts are on the back and suck the hub into the socket. The bolts
need to be pounded on to force the hub out of it's socket.

I don't have any trouble at all getting the bolts out, it's the hub
that's the problem.

Mike

g a r y a n d k a t e wrote:
>
> I have found that if you loosen all three bolts with a 12 point 13 mm
> socket, then thread them back in a few turns put a 12 point 13 mm socket on
> the one that you are using an air hammer on and rotate around the three
> bolts they come right out. Make sure to use lots of anti seize on them when
> you put it back together and it is a piece of cake.
>
> Gary
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:3FFDA7EA.E3F1AEB6@cox.net...
> > Hi Mike,
> > It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
> > of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
> > knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
> > Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> > > hubs.
> > >
> > > They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> > > mechanic.
> > >
> > > I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Roy J wrote:
> > > >
> > > > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > > > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > > > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > > > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > > > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > > > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> > > >
> > > > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > > > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > > > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > > > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > > > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > > > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > > > to drive it to work in the AM
> > > >
> > > > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to
> protect
> > > > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > Roy J wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > > > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > > > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > > > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > > > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > > > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > > > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > > > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > > > >>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Hi Mike,
Gary, was using the loose bolts to pound on, to drive though the
knuckle at the hub, with an air hammer via a socket to protect the
bolt's head, I've use an air chisel, the impact vibration is usually
enough to break stuff loose, without mutilating the bolt as a BMFH would
have.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am missing something....
>
> The bolts are on the back and suck the hub into the socket. The bolts
> need to be pounded on to force the hub out of it's socket.
>
> I don't have any trouble at all getting the bolts out, it's the hub
> that's the problem.
>
> Mike