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Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?

One tip, save the WD40 for things that get wet and need to be dried. It
is a great water displacement fluid, but it totally sucks as a
penetrating fluid.

Get something like PB Blaster or liquid wrench. They will do in an hour
what WD40 takes 3 days to loosen up.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

m wrote:
>
> Thanks much.
>
> Was banging on the exposed ends of the u-joint without bearing cups and not
> the yoke... but sounds like I should just bang on the bearing cups.
>
> For some reason the it looked like the bearing cups on the new u-joints were
> tapered (with the wider end at the outside)... so that if I tried to drive
> the old ones out the other side, it would just seat the bearing cup even
> worse. If they're not tapered then sounds a lot easier. Maybe will be ok
> tomorrow after the WD-40 bath.
>
> As far as "walking the bearings out" I was ripping off the term I saw in
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html as provided by
> L.W. (ßill) ------ III. ;o)
>
> The cups at the rear, held in by the straps, were the easiest... and the
> cups at the journal cross came out fairly easily too.
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-4jeDB3OvUQhn@anon.none.net...
> > I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
> > method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
> > (one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
> > receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
> > into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
> > push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
> > turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
> > finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
> > BMFH tool.
> >
> > The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
> > You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
> > the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
> > worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
> > as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
> > you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
> > together again.
> >
> > On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:
> >
> > > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
> > >
> > > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
> > >
> > > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island
> about 2
> > > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> > > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a
> major
> > > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on
> the
> > > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
> > >
> > > At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose
> using a
> > > liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> > > xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new
> gear
> > > oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice
> and
> > > clear.
> > >
> > > So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not
> in a
> > > critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to
> "walk
> > > out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
> > > caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> > > condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
> > > straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to
> re-use
> > > those?)
> > >
> > > Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing
> caps)
> > > trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on
> the
> > > mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he
> mentioned a
> > > torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel
> at
> > > the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
> > >
> > > What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
> > > freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
> > >
> > > (==============================)
> > >
> > > So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add
> brake
> > > fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the
> slave
> > > so I could drive the Jeep.
> > >
> > > However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
> > > chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then
> look at
> > > the reservoir, I see a lot of
> > > small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So
> I'm
> > > wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> > > introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission
> is
> > > external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
> > > feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
> > >
> > > In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a
> "rust
> > > converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep
> had
> > > hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got
> down
> > > here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal
> with
> > > some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit
> to
> > > the body shop is coming up as well.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> > > news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@cox.net...
> > > > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> > > > brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > > > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > > > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > m wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?

<m> wrote in message news:<btslni014it@enews3.newsguy.com>...
> The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
>
> Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
>
> A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island about 2
> years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a major
> number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on the
> beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.

Hey M,
Glad to see another Jeeper who resides in SPI! I'm in Brownsville.
Have you done the 30 mile dune ride north of the Island?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?

Oh that's a big 10-4 on the 30 mile run up to the cut. I did that first
thing after I got the jeep over here on the ferry while the bridge was out.
I need to get some wider tires and rims at some point but I've gotten pretty
good at staying un-stuck. Wish the topside of the jeep was in as good shape
as the underside is. Slopped some Napasco on the driveshaft and might need
some in a couple of other spots underneath but looks like it will outlast
the topside. Leaf springs need it too but they did a good job of rubberizing
most of the underside at the factory. Hey do you know a good body shop
around here?

Great to see the sunshine this week after that danged overcast crap, eh?

Skip
(m=Skip by the way... I hate spam and finally got it under control lol)

"Nick" <tooplanecrazy7@aol.com> wrote in message
news:3997749f.0401120731.7f033735@posting.google.c om...
> <m> wrote in message news:<btslni014it@enews3.newsguy.com>...
> > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
> >
> > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
> >
> > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island
about 2
> > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a
major
> > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on
the
> > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
>
> Hey M,
> Glad to see another Jeeper who resides in SPI! I'm in Brownsville.
> Have you done the 30 mile dune ride north of the Island?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?

Thanks for the tips Mike!! I've never used these other products but yep
they'd be worth using I'm sure. Have a preference for PB Blaster or Liquid
Wrench? Have a really great little ACE hardware here that I bet has both.

Also, if you've never tried TriFlow teflon lube it's a great product too. I
use it on my bicycle chains and it doesn't grab as much dirt as WD-40 does
and it's really slippery stuff- you can feel a big difference in pedaling
effort. Having to learn about these specialized lubes and such since I'm now
in salt air/sand blast all the time. Never needed anything except WD-40
before heh.

Skip

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4002B383.4E42B99E@sympatico.ca...
> One tip, save the WD40 for things that get wet and need to be dried. It
> is a great water displacement fluid, but it totally sucks as a
> penetrating fluid.
>
> Get something like PB Blaster or liquid wrench. They will do in an hour
> what WD40 takes 3 days to loosen up.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> m wrote:
> >
> > Thanks much.
> >
> > Was banging on the exposed ends of the u-joint without bearing cups and
not
> > the yoke... but sounds like I should just bang on the bearing cups.
> >
> > For some reason the it looked like the bearing cups on the new u-joints
were
> > tapered (with the wider end at the outside)... so that if I tried to
drive
> > the old ones out the other side, it would just seat the bearing cup even
> > worse. If they're not tapered then sounds a lot easier. Maybe will be ok
> > tomorrow after the WD-40 bath.
> >
> > As far as "walking the bearings out" I was ripping off the term I saw in
> > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html as
provided by
> > L.W. (ßill) ------ III. ;o)
> >
> > The cups at the rear, held in by the straps, were the easiest... and the
> > cups at the journal cross came out fairly easily too.
> >
> > "Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
> > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-4jeDB3OvUQhn@anon.none.net...
> > > I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
> > > method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
> > > (one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
> > > receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
> > > into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
> > > push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
> > > turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
> > > finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
> > > BMFH tool.
> > >
> > > The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
> > > You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
> > > the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
> > > worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
> > > as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
> > > you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
> > > together again.
> > >
> > > On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:
> > >
> > > > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
> > > >
> > > > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
> > > >
> > > > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island
> > about 2
> > > > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> > > > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing
a
> > major
> > > > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it
on
> > the
> > > > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
> > > >
> > > > At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose
> > using a
> > > > liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> > > > xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use
new
> > gear
> > > > oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine.
Nice
> > and
> > > > clear.
> > > >
> > > > So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission
(not
> > in a
> > > > critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps
to
> > "walk
> > > > out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized
bearing
> > > > caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> > > > condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear
retaining
> > > > straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to
> > re-use
> > > > those?)
> > > >
> > > > Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing
> > caps)
> > > > trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage
on
> > the
> > > > mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he
> > mentioned a
> > > > torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The
steel
> > at
> > > > the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
> > > >
> > > > What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps?
Some
> > > > freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
> > > >
> > > > (==============================)
> > > >
> > > > So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could
add
> > brake
> > > > fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate
the
> > slave
> > > > so I could drive the Jeep.
> > > >
> > > > However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at
the
> > > > chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then
> > look at
> > > > the reservoir, I see a lot of
> > > > small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam)
So
> > I'm
> > > > wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> > > > introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the
xmission
> > is
> > > > external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing
that
> > > > feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
> > > >
> > > > In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a
> > "rust
> > > > converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust.
Jeep
> > had
> > > > hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got
> > down
> > > > here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to
deal
> > with
> > > > some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a
visit
> > to
> > > > the body shop is coming up as well.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@cox.net...
> > > > > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in
this
> > > > > brake cylinder:
http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > > > > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > > > > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > > > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > m wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > > > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>