How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

m wrote:
>
> Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

m wrote:
>
> Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

m wrote:
>
> Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
factor on the hub to knuckle connection.

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:

> One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> m wrote:
>
>>Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
>>How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
factor on the hub to knuckle connection.

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:

> One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> m wrote:
>
>>Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
>>How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
factor on the hub to knuckle connection.

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:

> One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> m wrote:
>
>>Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
>>How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Use a BMFH and a paint scraper:
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/hub.cgi
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Roy J wrote:
>
> The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
> axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
> factor on the hub to knuckle connection.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Use a BMFH and a paint scraper:
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/hub.cgi
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Roy J wrote:
>
> The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
> axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
> factor on the hub to knuckle connection.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Use a BMFH and a paint scraper:
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/hub.cgi
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Roy J wrote:
>
> The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
> axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
> factor on the hub to knuckle connection.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

A mechanic taught me an easy way to get out a rusted hub, you use the
power of the steering system to break it free. Jam a 2X4 between the
hub and the frame and turn the wheels slightly and it will pop out, I
found this out after hammering out 2 of them to pull the axles for
u-joint replacement. If you plan on doing u-joints at home you might
want to have a beefy vise on the work bench, I broke a 5" vise once
trying to press out the joint.

On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 17:53:08 -0600, Roy J <spamless@microsoft.net>
wrote:

>The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
>axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
>factor on the hub to knuckle connection.
>
>L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
>> One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
>> brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
>> then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
>> bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
>> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> m wrote:
>>
>>>Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
>>>How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

A mechanic taught me an easy way to get out a rusted hub, you use the
power of the steering system to break it free. Jam a 2X4 between the
hub and the frame and turn the wheels slightly and it will pop out, I
found this out after hammering out 2 of them to pull the axles for
u-joint replacement. If you plan on doing u-joints at home you might
want to have a beefy vise on the work bench, I broke a 5" vise once
trying to press out the joint.

On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 17:53:08 -0600, Roy J <spamless@microsoft.net>
wrote:

>The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
>axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
>factor on the hub to knuckle connection.
>
>L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
>> One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
>> brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
>> then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
>> bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
>> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> m wrote:
>>
>>>Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
>>>How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

A mechanic taught me an easy way to get out a rusted hub, you use the
power of the steering system to break it free. Jam a 2X4 between the
hub and the frame and turn the wheels slightly and it will pop out, I
found this out after hammering out 2 of them to pull the axles for
u-joint replacement. If you plan on doing u-joints at home you might
want to have a beefy vise on the work bench, I broke a 5" vise once
trying to press out the joint.

On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 17:53:08 -0600, Roy J <spamless@microsoft.net>
wrote:

>The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
>axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
>factor on the hub to knuckle connection.
>
>L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
>> One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
>> brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
>> then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
>> bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
>> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> m wrote:
>>
>>>Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
>>>How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

The Cherokee has a sealed hub that can blow apart using that method.
Same for an axle puller, it can just pull the hub apart, not get it off.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeepster wrote:
>
> A mechanic taught me an easy way to get out a rusted hub, you use the
> power of the steering system to break it free. Jam a 2X4 between the
> hub and the frame and turn the wheels slightly and it will pop out, I
> found this out after hammering out 2 of them to pull the axles for
> u-joint replacement. If you plan on doing u-joints at home you might
> want to have a beefy vise on the work bench, I broke a 5" vise once
> trying to press out the joint.
>
> On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 17:53:08 -0600, Roy J <spamless@microsoft.net>
> wrote:
>
> >The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
> >axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
> >factor on the hub to knuckle connection.
> >
> >L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> >
> >> One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> >> brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> >> then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> >> bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> >> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >> m wrote:
> >>
> >>>Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> >>>How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

The Cherokee has a sealed hub that can blow apart using that method.
Same for an axle puller, it can just pull the hub apart, not get it off.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeepster wrote:
>
> A mechanic taught me an easy way to get out a rusted hub, you use the
> power of the steering system to break it free. Jam a 2X4 between the
> hub and the frame and turn the wheels slightly and it will pop out, I
> found this out after hammering out 2 of them to pull the axles for
> u-joint replacement. If you plan on doing u-joints at home you might
> want to have a beefy vise on the work bench, I broke a 5" vise once
> trying to press out the joint.
>
> On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 17:53:08 -0600, Roy J <spamless@microsoft.net>
> wrote:
>
> >The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
> >axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
> >factor on the hub to knuckle connection.
> >
> >L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> >
> >> One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> >> brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> >> then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> >> bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> >> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >> m wrote:
> >>
> >>>Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> >>>How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

The Cherokee has a sealed hub that can blow apart using that method.
Same for an axle puller, it can just pull the hub apart, not get it off.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeepster wrote:
>
> A mechanic taught me an easy way to get out a rusted hub, you use the
> power of the steering system to break it free. Jam a 2X4 between the
> hub and the frame and turn the wheels slightly and it will pop out, I
> found this out after hammering out 2 of them to pull the axles for
> u-joint replacement. If you plan on doing u-joints at home you might
> want to have a beefy vise on the work bench, I broke a 5" vise once
> trying to press out the joint.
>
> On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 17:53:08 -0600, Roy J <spamless@microsoft.net>
> wrote:
>
> >The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
> >axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
> >factor on the hub to knuckle connection.
> >
> >L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> >
> >> One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> >> brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> >> then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> >> bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> >> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >> m wrote:
> >>
> >>>Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> >>>How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Yes, but you may repack your bearings while it's apart:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The Cherokee has a sealed hub that can blow apart using that method.
> Same for an axle puller, it can just pull the hub apart, not get it off.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Yes, but you may repack your bearings while it's apart:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The Cherokee has a sealed hub that can blow apart using that method.
> Same for an axle puller, it can just pull the hub apart, not get it off.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Yes, but you may repack your bearings while it's apart:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The Cherokee has a sealed hub that can blow apart using that method.
> Same for an axle puller, it can just pull the hub apart, not get it off.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Ok, but how do you get the prick back together without a machine press?

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Yes, but you may repack your bearings while it's apart:
> http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > The Cherokee has a sealed hub that can blow apart using that method.
> > Same for an axle puller, it can just pull the hub apart, not get it off.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Ok, but how do you get the prick back together without a machine press?

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Yes, but you may repack your bearings while it's apart:
> http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > The Cherokee has a sealed hub that can blow apart using that method.
> > Same for an axle puller, it can just pull the hub apart, not get it off.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Ok, but how do you get the prick back together without a machine press?

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Yes, but you may repack your bearings while it's apart:
> http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > The Cherokee has a sealed hub that can blow apart using that method.
> > Same for an axle puller, it can just pull the hub apart, not get it off.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

LOL Matt, here told of using the axle it's self, once he realized
what happen using a puller.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Ok, but how do you get the prick back together without a machine press?
>
> Mike

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

LOL Matt, here told of using the axle it's self, once he realized
what happen using a puller.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Ok, but how do you get the prick back together without a machine press?
>
> Mike

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

LOL Matt, here told of using the axle it's self, once he realized
what happen using a puller.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Ok, but how do you get the prick back together without a machine press?
>
> Mike

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
mashed threads, etc.
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Use a BMFH and a paint scraper:
> http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/hub.cgi
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
>>axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
>>factor on the hub to knuckle connection.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
mashed threads, etc.
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Use a BMFH and a paint scraper:
> http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/hub.cgi
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
>>axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
>>factor on the hub to knuckle connection.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
mashed threads, etc.
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Use a BMFH and a paint scraper:
> http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/hub.cgi
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>The driveshaft u-joints are indeed a 1 banana job but the front
>>axle knuckle joints are at least a 3 banana job due to the rust
>>factor on the hub to knuckle connection.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Roy J wrote:
>
> If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Roy J wrote:
>
> If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Roy J wrote:
>
> If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.

But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
to drive it to work in the AM

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:

> Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
>>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
>>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
>>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
>>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
>>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
>>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
>>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
>>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.

But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
to drive it to work in the AM

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:

> Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
>>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
>>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
>>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
>>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
>>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
>>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
>>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
>>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.

But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
to drive it to work in the AM

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:

> Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
>>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
>>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
>>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
>>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
>>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
>>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
>>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
>>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
hubs.

They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
mechanic.

I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Roy J wrote:
>
> A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
>
> But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> to drive it to work in the AM
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Roy J wrote:
> >
> >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> >>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
hubs.

They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
mechanic.

I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Roy J wrote:
>
> A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
>
> But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> to drive it to work in the AM
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Roy J wrote:
> >
> >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> >>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
hubs.

They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
mechanic.

I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Roy J wrote:
>
> A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
>
> But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> to drive it to work in the AM
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Roy J wrote:
> >
> >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> >>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Hi Mike,
It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> hubs.
>
> They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> mechanic.
>
> I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> >
> > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > to drive it to work in the AM
> >
> > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> >
> > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Roy J wrote:
> > >
> > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > >>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Hi Mike,
It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> hubs.
>
> They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> mechanic.
>
> I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> >
> > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > to drive it to work in the AM
> >
> > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> >
> > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Roy J wrote:
> > >
> > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > >>mashed threads, etc.

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Hi Mike,
It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> hubs.
>
> They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> mechanic.
>
> I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> >
> > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > to drive it to work in the AM
> >
> > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> >
> > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Roy J wrote:
> > >
> > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > >>mashed threads, etc.