Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Hi Mike,
Gary, was using the loose bolts to pound on, to drive though the
knuckle at the hub, with an air hammer via a socket to protect the
bolt's head, I've use an air chisel, the impact vibration is usually
enough to break stuff loose, without mutilating the bolt as a BMFH would
have.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am missing something....
>
> The bolts are on the back and suck the hub into the socket. The bolts
> need to be pounded on to force the hub out of it's socket.
>
> I don't have any trouble at all getting the bolts out, it's the hub
> that's the problem.
>
> Mike

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Hi Mike,
Gary, was using the loose bolts to pound on, to drive though the
knuckle at the hub, with an air hammer via a socket to protect the
bolt's head, I've use an air chisel, the impact vibration is usually
enough to break stuff loose, without mutilating the bolt as a BMFH would
have.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am missing something....
>
> The bolts are on the back and suck the hub into the socket. The bolts
> need to be pounded on to force the hub out of it's socket.
>
> I don't have any trouble at all getting the bolts out, it's the hub
> that's the problem.
>
> Mike

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Ahhh, got it, thanks.

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> Gary, was using the loose bolts to pound on, to drive though the
> knuckle at the hub, with an air hammer via a socket to protect the
> bolt's head, I've use an air chisel, the impact vibration is usually
> enough to break stuff loose, without mutilating the bolt as a BMFH would
> have.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > I am missing something....
> >
> > The bolts are on the back and suck the hub into the socket. The bolts
> > need to be pounded on to force the hub out of it's socket.
> >
> > I don't have any trouble at all getting the bolts out, it's the hub
> > that's the problem.
> >
> > Mike

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Ahhh, got it, thanks.

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> Gary, was using the loose bolts to pound on, to drive though the
> knuckle at the hub, with an air hammer via a socket to protect the
> bolt's head, I've use an air chisel, the impact vibration is usually
> enough to break stuff loose, without mutilating the bolt as a BMFH would
> have.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > I am missing something....
> >
> > The bolts are on the back and suck the hub into the socket. The bolts
> > need to be pounded on to force the hub out of it's socket.
> >
> > I don't have any trouble at all getting the bolts out, it's the hub
> > that's the problem.
> >
> > Mike

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Ahhh, got it, thanks.

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> Gary, was using the loose bolts to pound on, to drive though the
> knuckle at the hub, with an air hammer via a socket to protect the
> bolt's head, I've use an air chisel, the impact vibration is usually
> enough to break stuff loose, without mutilating the bolt as a BMFH would
> have.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > I am missing something....
> >
> > The bolts are on the back and suck the hub into the socket. The bolts
> > need to be pounded on to force the hub out of it's socket.
> >
> > I don't have any trouble at all getting the bolts out, it's the hub
> > that's the problem.
> >
> > Mike

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Yup That was it, Sorry I was vague!
Gary
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FFF18F1.4E97568B@sympatico.ca...
> Ahhh, got it, thanks.
>
> Mike
>
> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> > Gary, was using the loose bolts to pound on, to drive though the
> > knuckle at the hub, with an air hammer via a socket to protect the
> > bolt's head, I've use an air chisel, the impact vibration is usually
> > enough to break stuff loose, without mutilating the bolt as a BMFH would
> > have.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > I am missing something....
> > >
> > > The bolts are on the back and suck the hub into the socket. The bolts
> > > need to be pounded on to force the hub out of it's socket.
> > >
> > > I don't have any trouble at all getting the bolts out, it's the hub
> > > that's the problem.
> > >
> > > Mike

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Yup That was it, Sorry I was vague!
Gary
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FFF18F1.4E97568B@sympatico.ca...
> Ahhh, got it, thanks.
>
> Mike
>
> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> > Gary, was using the loose bolts to pound on, to drive though the
> > knuckle at the hub, with an air hammer via a socket to protect the
> > bolt's head, I've use an air chisel, the impact vibration is usually
> > enough to break stuff loose, without mutilating the bolt as a BMFH would
> > have.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > I am missing something....
> > >
> > > The bolts are on the back and suck the hub into the socket. The bolts
> > > need to be pounded on to force the hub out of it's socket.
> > >
> > > I don't have any trouble at all getting the bolts out, it's the hub
> > > that's the problem.
> > >
> > > Mike

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

Yup That was it, Sorry I was vague!
Gary
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FFF18F1.4E97568B@sympatico.ca...
> Ahhh, got it, thanks.
>
> Mike
>
> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> > Gary, was using the loose bolts to pound on, to drive though the
> > knuckle at the hub, with an air hammer via a socket to protect the
> > bolt's head, I've use an air chisel, the impact vibration is usually
> > enough to break stuff loose, without mutilating the bolt as a BMFH would
> > have.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > I am missing something....
> > >
> > > The bolts are on the back and suck the hub into the socket. The bolts
> > > need to be pounded on to force the hub out of it's socket.
> > >
> > > I don't have any trouble at all getting the bolts out, it's the hub
> > > that's the problem.
> > >
> > > Mike

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...

Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)

A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island about 2
years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a major
number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on the
beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.

At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose using a
liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new gear
oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice and
clear.

So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not in a
critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to "walk
out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to re-use
those?)

Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing caps)
trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on the
mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he mentioned a
torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel at
the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.

What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?

(==============================)

So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add brake
fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the slave
so I could drive the Jeep.

However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then look at
the reservoir, I see a lot of
small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So I'm
wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission is
external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.

In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a "rust
converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep had
hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got down
here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal with
some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit to
the body shop is coming up as well.



"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@cox.net...
> One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> m wrote:
> >
> > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
 

The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...

Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)

A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island about 2
years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a major
number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on the
beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.

At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose using a
liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new gear
oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice and
clear.

So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not in a
critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to "walk
out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to re-use
those?)

Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing caps)
trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on the
mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he mentioned a
torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel at
the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.

What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?

(==============================)

So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add brake
fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the slave
so I could drive the Jeep.

However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then look at
the reservoir, I see a lot of
small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So I'm
wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission is
external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.

In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a "rust
converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep had
hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got down
here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal with
some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit to
the body shop is coming up as well.



"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@cox.net...
> One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> m wrote:
> >
> > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?