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- - Front U-joints (https://www.jeepscanada.com/jeep-mailing-list-32/front-u-joints-44243/)

Re: Front U-joints

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...

>
> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
> been said concerning removal of same.
>
Been there, done that! I resorted to buying three bolts of the same pitch
and diameter, but longer than the factory bolts, threaded them in and tapped
on the bolt heads with a hammer just enough to get a gap big enough to
insert a small prybar.

Re: Front U-joints

Not on a Real Jeep.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

"Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
news:iKudnTs23IctFE7YnZ2dnUVZ_sapnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Yep, the axle spins whether you are in 4x4 or 4x2.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Re: Front U-joints

I guess that makes factory MB's/GPW's fake, and YJ's real.

"L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:45d38061$0$16340$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> Not on a Real Jeep.
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
> news:iKudnTs23IctFE7YnZ2dnUVZ_sapnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> Yep, the axle spins whether you are in 4x4 or 4x2.
>
>
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>

Re: Front U-joints

Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just
ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off
my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the
> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock
> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.
>
> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub
> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have
> been said concerning removal of same.
>
> Don Hamilton wrote:
>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>
>>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>>
>>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>>
>>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>>rust belt.
>>>
>>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>>
>>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need
>>>>to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some
>>>>type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter
>>>>type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the
>>>>car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems
>>>>to come
>>>
>>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>>
>>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and
>>>>I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some
>>>>correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>>
>>>
>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked
>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this
>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not
>> come apart I hope. Don