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Re: Front U-joints
Are you also changing out the front hub? If not, there is no reason to
touch that 36 mm nut.... The hub will just come off with the spindle and the whole thing pulls out as one piece. You then can press out the u-joint. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Don Hamilton wrote: > Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just > ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off > my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don > > "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message > news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net... >> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the >> differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock >> (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon. >> >> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the hub >> MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad words have >> been said concerning removal of same. >> >> Don Hamilton wrote: >>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message >>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. .. >>> >>>> U-joints shouldn't have any play. >>>> >>>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm >>>> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket. >>>> >>>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with >>>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the >>>> rust belt. >>>> >>>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message >>>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com... >>>> >>>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and >>>>> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need >>>>> to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some >>>>> type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter >>>>> type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the >>>>> car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems >>>>> to come >>>> >from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my >>>> >>>>> ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and >>>>> I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some >>>>> correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don >>>>> >>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked >>> and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this >>> stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not >>> come apart I hope. Don > > |
Re: Front U-joints
Thank You Mike all I plan on is the u-joints. You just saved me some time. I
do not think the hub should be all that tight. It was just off a couple of months ago when the front lockers were repaired. The mechanic told me he had to remove the axels for the repair. I guess I will have the socket if needed in the future. I assumed from the info on Bill ------ page it was necessary. Thanks again Don "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:45d3acdd$0$27025$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com... > Are you also changing out the front hub? If not, there is no reason to > touch that 36 mm nut.... > > The hub will just come off with the spindle and the whole thing pulls out > as one piece. You then can press out the u-joint. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Don Hamilton wrote: >> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just >> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts >> off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don >> >> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message >> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net... >>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning >>> the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full >>> lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon. >>> >>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the >>> hub MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad >>> words have been said concerning removal of same. >>> >>> Don Hamilton wrote: >>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message >>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. .. >>>> >>>>> U-joints shouldn't have any play. >>>>> >>>>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are >>>>> 13mm 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket. >>>>> >>>>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with >>>>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in >>>>> the rust belt. >>>>> >>>>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com... >>>>> >>>>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and >>>>>> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that >>>>>> need to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? >>>>>> Is some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have >>>>>> a clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I >>>>>> have jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, >>>>>> exhaust. It seems to come >>>>> >from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe >>>>> >my >>>>> >>>>>> ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play >>>>>> and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get >>>>>> some correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don >>>>>> >>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when >>>> locked and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and >>>> hope this stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it >>>> should not come apart I hope. Don >> |
Re: Front U-joints
Thank You Mike all I plan on is the u-joints. You just saved me some time. I
do not think the hub should be all that tight. It was just off a couple of months ago when the front lockers were repaired. The mechanic told me he had to remove the axels for the repair. I guess I will have the socket if needed in the future. I assumed from the info on Bill ------ page it was necessary. Thanks again Don "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:45d3acdd$0$27025$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com... > Are you also changing out the front hub? If not, there is no reason to > touch that 36 mm nut.... > > The hub will just come off with the spindle and the whole thing pulls out > as one piece. You then can press out the u-joint. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Don Hamilton wrote: >> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just >> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts >> off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don >> >> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message >> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net... >>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning >>> the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full >>> lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon. >>> >>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the >>> hub MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad >>> words have been said concerning removal of same. >>> >>> Don Hamilton wrote: >>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message >>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. .. >>>> >>>>> U-joints shouldn't have any play. >>>>> >>>>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are >>>>> 13mm 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket. >>>>> >>>>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with >>>>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in >>>>> the rust belt. >>>>> >>>>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com... >>>>> >>>>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and >>>>>> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that >>>>>> need to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? >>>>>> Is some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have >>>>>> a clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I >>>>>> have jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, >>>>>> exhaust. It seems to come >>>>> >from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe >>>>> >my >>>>> >>>>>> ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play >>>>>> and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get >>>>>> some correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don >>>>>> >>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when >>>> locked and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and >>>> hope this stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it >>>> should not come apart I hope. Don >> |
Re: Front U-joints
Thank You Mike all I plan on is the u-joints. You just saved me some time. I
do not think the hub should be all that tight. It was just off a couple of months ago when the front lockers were repaired. The mechanic told me he had to remove the axels for the repair. I guess I will have the socket if needed in the future. I assumed from the info on Bill ------ page it was necessary. Thanks again Don "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:45d3acdd$0$27025$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com... > Are you also changing out the front hub? If not, there is no reason to > touch that 36 mm nut.... > > The hub will just come off with the spindle and the whole thing pulls out > as one piece. You then can press out the u-joint. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Don Hamilton wrote: >> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just >> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts >> off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don >> >> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message >> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net... >>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning >>> the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full >>> lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon. >>> >>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the >>> hub MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad >>> words have been said concerning removal of same. >>> >>> Don Hamilton wrote: >>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message >>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. .. >>>> >>>>> U-joints shouldn't have any play. >>>>> >>>>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are >>>>> 13mm 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket. >>>>> >>>>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with >>>>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in >>>>> the rust belt. >>>>> >>>>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com... >>>>> >>>>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and >>>>>> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that >>>>>> need to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? >>>>>> Is some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have >>>>>> a clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I >>>>>> have jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, >>>>>> exhaust. It seems to come >>>>> >from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe >>>>> >my >>>>> >>>>>> ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play >>>>>> and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get >>>>>> some correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don >>>>>> >>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when >>>> locked and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and >>>> hope this stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it >>>> should not come apart I hope. Don >> |
Re: Front U-joints
Thank You Mike all I plan on is the u-joints. You just saved me some time. I
do not think the hub should be all that tight. It was just off a couple of months ago when the front lockers were repaired. The mechanic told me he had to remove the axels for the repair. I guess I will have the socket if needed in the future. I assumed from the info on Bill ------ page it was necessary. Thanks again Don "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:45d3acdd$0$27025$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com... > Are you also changing out the front hub? If not, there is no reason to > touch that 36 mm nut.... > > The hub will just come off with the spindle and the whole thing pulls out > as one piece. You then can press out the u-joint. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Don Hamilton wrote: >> Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just >> ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts >> off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don >> >> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message >> news:ECvAh.1881$Jl.659@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net... >>> Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning >>> the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full >>> lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon. >>> >>> Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the >>> hub MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad >>> words have been said concerning removal of same. >>> >>> Don Hamilton wrote: >>>> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message >>>> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. .. >>>> >>>>> U-joints shouldn't have any play. >>>>> >>>>> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are >>>>> 13mm 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket. >>>>> >>>>> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with >>>>> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in >>>>> the rust belt. >>>>> >>>>> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message >>>>> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com... >>>>> >>>>>> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and >>>>>> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that >>>>>> need to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? >>>>>> Is some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have >>>>>> a clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I >>>>>> have jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, >>>>>> exhaust. It seems to come >>>>> >from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe >>>>> >my >>>>> >>>>>> ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play >>>>>> and I feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get >>>>>> some correct spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don >>>>>> >>>> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when >>>> locked and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and >>>> hope this stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it >>>> should not come apart I hope. Don >> |
Re: Front U-joints
The sacrificial bolt trick is one VERY useful trick,,, I've used it - it
helps out ALOT! "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:45d32923$0$3989$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >I have one sacrificial bolt I use and just move that one around to beat on. >It also helps to cut the steering side to side to get room to swing the >BFH. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > |
Re: Front U-joints
The sacrificial bolt trick is one VERY useful trick,,, I've used it - it
helps out ALOT! "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:45d32923$0$3989$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >I have one sacrificial bolt I use and just move that one around to beat on. >It also helps to cut the steering side to side to get room to swing the >BFH. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > |
Re: Front U-joints
The sacrificial bolt trick is one VERY useful trick,,, I've used it - it
helps out ALOT! "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:45d32923$0$3989$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >I have one sacrificial bolt I use and just move that one around to beat on. >It also helps to cut the steering side to side to get room to swing the >BFH. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > |
Re: Front U-joints
The sacrificial bolt trick is one VERY useful trick,,, I've used it - it
helps out ALOT! "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:45d32923$0$3989$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >I have one sacrificial bolt I use and just move that one around to beat on. >It also helps to cut the steering side to side to get room to swing the >BFH. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > |
Re: Front U-joints
A quick little WARNING!
Be very, very careful not to deform or damage in ANY way the ABS excitor ring that is on the axle near the U-Joint. It can be really difficult to find a replacement and even MORE difficult to install it. This is experience talking here! Good Luck, Bruce |
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