Re: Front U-joints
 

Hi Don,
Use the spindle bolts, just unscrewed a couple of threads to drive the
bearing assemble out, with penetrating oil. Similar to these Dana 30s:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/index.htm
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/axle/ujoint/
The axles slide out.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
after
> removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
> out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
> axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
> mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
> find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
> right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
be
> that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my
> mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
well.
> All advice appreciated. Don
>
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Re: Front U-joints
 

Hi Don,
Use the spindle bolts, just unscrewed a couple of threads to drive the
bearing assemble out, with penetrating oil. Similar to these Dana 30s:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/index.htm
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/axle/ujoint/
The axles slide out.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
after
> removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
> out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
> axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
> mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
> find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
> right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
be
> that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my
> mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
well.
> All advice appreciated. Don
>
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Re: Front U-joints
 

Hi Don,
Use the spindle bolts, just unscrewed a couple of threads to drive the
bearing assemble out, with penetrating oil. Similar to these Dana 30s:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/index.htm
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/axle/ujoint/
The axles slide out.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
after
> removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
> out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
> axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
> mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
> find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
> right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
be
> that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my
> mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
well.
> All advice appreciated. Don
>
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Re: Front U-joints
 

"Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>
> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>
> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
> rust belt.
>
> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to
>>come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type
>>of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type
>>rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and
>>cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come
>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I
>>feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct
>>spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>
>
Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked and
unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this stops
the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not come apart
I hope. Don

Re: Front U-joints
 

"Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>
> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>
> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
> rust belt.
>
> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to
>>come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type
>>of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type
>>rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and
>>cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come
>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I
>>feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct
>>spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>
>
Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked and
unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this stops
the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not come apart
I hope. Don

Re: Front U-joints
 

"Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>
> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>
> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
> rust belt.
>
> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to
>>come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type
>>of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type
>>rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and
>>cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come
>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I
>>feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct
>>spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>
>
Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked and
unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this stops
the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not come apart
I hope. Don

Re: Front U-joints
 

"Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>
> The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
> 12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>
> Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
> penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
> rust belt.
>
> "Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
> news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to
>>come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type
>>of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type
>>rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and
>>cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come
>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I
>>feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct
>>spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>
>
Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked and
unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this stops
the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not come apart
I hope. Don

Re: Front U-joints
 

Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning
the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full
lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.

Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the
hub MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad
words have been said concerning removal of same.

Don Hamilton wrote:
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>
>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>
>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>
>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>rust belt.
>>
>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>
>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to
>>>come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type
>>>of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type
>>>rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and
>>>cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come
>>
>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>
>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I
>>>feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct
>>>spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>
>>
> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked and
> unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this stops
> the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not come apart
> I hope. Don
>
>

Re: Front U-joints
 

Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning
the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full
lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.

Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the
hub MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad
words have been said concerning removal of same.

Don Hamilton wrote:
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>
>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>
>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>
>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>rust belt.
>>
>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>
>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to
>>>come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type
>>>of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type
>>>rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and
>>>cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come
>>
>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>
>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I
>>>feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct
>>>spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>
>>
> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked and
> unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this stops
> the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not come apart
> I hope. Don
>
>

Re: Front U-joints
 

Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning
the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full
lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.

Although Matt mentioned PB blaster, if you live in the rust belt, the
hub MAY be rusted in fairly solid or REALLY solid. Many new and bad
words have been said concerning removal of same.

Don Hamilton wrote:
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <matt@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
> news:JeednedTsuxw9E_YnZ2dnUVZ_qqrnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>
>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.
>>
>>The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
>>12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
>>
>>Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
>>penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the
>>rust belt.
>>
>>"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
>>news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>>
>>>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
>>>after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to
>>>come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type
>>>of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type
>>>rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and
>>>cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come
>>
>>>from the right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my
>>
>>>ears could be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I
>>>feel with my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct
>>>spares as well. All advice appreciated. Don
>>>
>>
> Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked and
> unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this stops
> the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not come apart
> I hope. Don
>
>