followup distributor questions
04-16-2004, 11:46 PM
#71
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
You are confused.....
;-)
The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
then you clock the wires from there.
Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
should be to the front drivers side corner.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CRWLR wrote:
>
> The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>
> "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >
> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > :wq!
;-)
The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
then you clock the wires from there.
Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
should be to the front drivers side corner.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CRWLR wrote:
>
> The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>
> "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >
> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > :wq!
04-16-2004, 11:46 PM
#72
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
You are confused.....
;-)
The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
then you clock the wires from there.
Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
should be to the front drivers side corner.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CRWLR wrote:
>
> The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>
> "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >
> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > :wq!
;-)
The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
then you clock the wires from there.
Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
should be to the front drivers side corner.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CRWLR wrote:
>
> The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>
> "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >
> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > :wq!
04-16-2004, 11:46 PM
#73
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
You are confused.....
;-)
The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
then you clock the wires from there.
Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
should be to the front drivers side corner.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CRWLR wrote:
>
> The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>
> "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >
> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > :wq!
;-)
The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
then you clock the wires from there.
Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
should be to the front drivers side corner.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CRWLR wrote:
>
> The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>
> "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >
> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > :wq!
04-16-2004, 11:57 PM
#74
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
Ouch.....
Ok, well.....
You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
owns it along to use it.
The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
the crankshaft pulley.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
Ok, well.....
You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
owns it along to use it.
The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
the crankshaft pulley.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-16-2004, 11:57 PM
#75
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
Ouch.....
Ok, well.....
You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
owns it along to use it.
The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
the crankshaft pulley.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
Ok, well.....
You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
owns it along to use it.
The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
the crankshaft pulley.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-16-2004, 11:57 PM
#76
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
Ouch.....
Ok, well.....
You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
owns it along to use it.
The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
the crankshaft pulley.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
Ok, well.....
You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
owns it along to use it.
The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
the crankshaft pulley.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-16-2004, 11:57 PM
#77
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
Ouch.....
Ok, well.....
You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
owns it along to use it.
The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
the crankshaft pulley.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
Ok, well.....
You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
owns it along to use it.
The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
the crankshaft pulley.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-17-2004, 12:23 AM
#78
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
To clarify:
In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
want to?
Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
to electronic because I tired of doing this.
All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
Regards,
DAve
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are confused.....
> ;-)
>
> The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> then you clock the wires from there.
>
> Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> should be to the front drivers side corner.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> CRWLR wrote:
>
>>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
>>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
>>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>>
>>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
>>
>>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
>>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
>>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
>>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
>>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
>>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
>>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
>>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
>>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
>>>
>>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>>:wq!
In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
want to?
Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
to electronic because I tired of doing this.
All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
Regards,
DAve
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are confused.....
> ;-)
>
> The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> then you clock the wires from there.
>
> Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> should be to the front drivers side corner.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> CRWLR wrote:
>
>>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
>>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
>>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>>
>>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
>>
>>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
>>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
>>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
>>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
>>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
>>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
>>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
>>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
>>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
>>>
>>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>>:wq!
04-17-2004, 12:23 AM
#79
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
To clarify:
In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
want to?
Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
to electronic because I tired of doing this.
All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
Regards,
DAve
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are confused.....
> ;-)
>
> The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> then you clock the wires from there.
>
> Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> should be to the front drivers side corner.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> CRWLR wrote:
>
>>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
>>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
>>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>>
>>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
>>
>>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
>>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
>>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
>>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
>>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
>>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
>>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
>>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
>>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
>>>
>>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>>:wq!
In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
want to?
Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
to electronic because I tired of doing this.
All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
Regards,
DAve
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are confused.....
> ;-)
>
> The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> then you clock the wires from there.
>
> Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> should be to the front drivers side corner.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> CRWLR wrote:
>
>>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
>>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
>>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>>
>>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
>>
>>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
>>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
>>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
>>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
>>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
>>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
>>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
>>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
>>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
>>>
>>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>>:wq!
04-17-2004, 12:23 AM
#80
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
To clarify:
In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
want to?
Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
to electronic because I tired of doing this.
All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
Regards,
DAve
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are confused.....
> ;-)
>
> The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> then you clock the wires from there.
>
> Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> should be to the front drivers side corner.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> CRWLR wrote:
>
>>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
>>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
>>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>>
>>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
>>
>>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
>>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
>>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
>>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
>>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
>>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
>>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
>>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
>>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
>>>
>>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>>:wq!
In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
want to?
Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
to electronic because I tired of doing this.
All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
Regards,
DAve
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are confused.....
> ;-)
>
> The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> then you clock the wires from there.
>
> Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> should be to the front drivers side corner.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> CRWLR wrote:
>
>>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
>>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
>>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>>
>>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
>>
>>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
>>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
>>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
>>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
>>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
>>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
>>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
>>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
>>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
>>>
>>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>>:wq!
