JimG

>So I get cylinder #1 at TDC on compression stroke, point
> the rotor to the terminal cap I want to be #1, note the position of
> the bottom of the distributor shaft so that I could figure out about
> what orientation the oil pump is at, then use a screwdriver to turn
> the oil pump to that approximate location...

Exactly! Could not have said it better!

:-)


JimG

JimG

>So I get cylinder #1 at TDC on compression stroke, point
> the rotor to the terminal cap I want to be #1, note the position of
> the bottom of the distributor shaft so that I could figure out about
> what orientation the oil pump is at, then use a screwdriver to turn
> the oil pump to that approximate location...

Exactly! Could not have said it better!

:-)


JimG

JimG

>So I get cylinder #1 at TDC on compression stroke, point
> the rotor to the terminal cap I want to be #1, note the position of
> the bottom of the distributor shaft so that I could figure out about
> what orientation the oil pump is at, then use a screwdriver to turn
> the oil pump to that approximate location...

Exactly! Could not have said it better!

:-)


JimG

Steve G

Here's what you're looking for. When you drop the dist in you will index
the dist teeth with the camshaft gear teeth. The distributor will probably
not drop all the way down because the oil pump drive is not aligned. Let it
drop in as far as it will go. Now crank it over on the starter keeping a
very light downward pressure on the dist with your hand. (usually just the
weight of the dist is enough, but just to be sure keep a little downward
pressure on it). When the oil pump shaft and the dist align the dist will
drop down the rest of the way. Bring the crank around to TDC on no 1 again
and recheck your timing. You do know that there is 2 TDC's for No1 don't
you? Aligning the marks on the crank damper is not enough. You need to
have the plug out to ensure you are on the compression stroke. Also, when
you go to put the dist in remember that the gear teeth are spiral cut. As
the dist drops into place the rotor will move forward a bit so make sure
you've compensated for that.
Now you've cranked it over, the dist has dropped all the way down and you're
back at TDC of the compression stroke for #1. It's now time to time it.
The rotor pointing to the number one terminal is not what determines when
that plug fires. Go back down to your timing marks on the crank and set
them at whatever the tuneup tag or your spec book calls for initial timing.
If you have a points type ignition and the points are properly gapped you
want to turn the dist body first with the direction of rotation until you
are sure the points are closed. Now pull it back opposite to rotation until
the points just open. For an even more precise setting you can attach a 12
volt test light to the lead on the coil that runs to the dist and turn the
key on. As the points just open and break contact the test light will
illuminate. Lock the dist down at the point the light just went on. Ensure
the rotor is pointing to number one. If you have transistor ign you can't
run the same procedure, but if you align the small teeth on the relucter
with the pickup in the dist you should be very close. This part is what
saves you all the guesswork, headache and hassles of moving the dist back
and forth while trying to start it and getting it to run well enough to get
your timing light on it. Follow this procedure and you will only be out a
couple of degrees (insignificant) when you recheck with your timing light.
Steve G.
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:16nr70p40vv06am3ooj48ma4jih1dmhobv@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 00:50:17 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> >Stick a long screwdriver in there and turn the pump anywhere you want it.
>
> Yeah, but that's not what I'm asking. Does the end of the distributor
> shaft mesh with it? It sounds like it does. If that's the case then
> there is only two ways to install the distributor (180 degrees out of
> phase from each other) for any given engine rotation unless you use a
> screwdriver to turn the oil pump to just the right rotation so that it
> lines up with the distributor shaft. That brings up another question,
> though... If the distributor has been out of the engine and the
> engine has been turned over some (like mine has) then there's no way
> of knowing what the orientation of the oil pump is so that you can
> line the distributor up with it right... uh oh... making my head
> hurt now... So I get cylinder #1 at TDC on compression stroke, point
> the rotor to the terminal cap I want to be #1, note the position of
> the bottom of the distributor shaft so that I could figure out about
> what orientation the oil pump is at, then use a screwdriver to turn
> the oil pump to that approximate location, then hope for the best and
> drop the distributor in? I see trouble coming. heh heh
>
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!

Steve G

Here's what you're looking for. When you drop the dist in you will index
the dist teeth with the camshaft gear teeth. The distributor will probably
not drop all the way down because the oil pump drive is not aligned. Let it
drop in as far as it will go. Now crank it over on the starter keeping a
very light downward pressure on the dist with your hand. (usually just the
weight of the dist is enough, but just to be sure keep a little downward
pressure on it). When the oil pump shaft and the dist align the dist will
drop down the rest of the way. Bring the crank around to TDC on no 1 again
and recheck your timing. You do know that there is 2 TDC's for No1 don't
you? Aligning the marks on the crank damper is not enough. You need to
have the plug out to ensure you are on the compression stroke. Also, when
you go to put the dist in remember that the gear teeth are spiral cut. As
the dist drops into place the rotor will move forward a bit so make sure
you've compensated for that.
Now you've cranked it over, the dist has dropped all the way down and you're
back at TDC of the compression stroke for #1. It's now time to time it.
The rotor pointing to the number one terminal is not what determines when
that plug fires. Go back down to your timing marks on the crank and set
them at whatever the tuneup tag or your spec book calls for initial timing.
If you have a points type ignition and the points are properly gapped you
want to turn the dist body first with the direction of rotation until you
are sure the points are closed. Now pull it back opposite to rotation until
the points just open. For an even more precise setting you can attach a 12
volt test light to the lead on the coil that runs to the dist and turn the
key on. As the points just open and break contact the test light will
illuminate. Lock the dist down at the point the light just went on. Ensure
the rotor is pointing to number one. If you have transistor ign you can't
run the same procedure, but if you align the small teeth on the relucter
with the pickup in the dist you should be very close. This part is what
saves you all the guesswork, headache and hassles of moving the dist back
and forth while trying to start it and getting it to run well enough to get
your timing light on it. Follow this procedure and you will only be out a
couple of degrees (insignificant) when you recheck with your timing light.
Steve G.
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:16nr70p40vv06am3ooj48ma4jih1dmhobv@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 00:50:17 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> >Stick a long screwdriver in there and turn the pump anywhere you want it.
>
> Yeah, but that's not what I'm asking. Does the end of the distributor
> shaft mesh with it? It sounds like it does. If that's the case then
> there is only two ways to install the distributor (180 degrees out of
> phase from each other) for any given engine rotation unless you use a
> screwdriver to turn the oil pump to just the right rotation so that it
> lines up with the distributor shaft. That brings up another question,
> though... If the distributor has been out of the engine and the
> engine has been turned over some (like mine has) then there's no way
> of knowing what the orientation of the oil pump is so that you can
> line the distributor up with it right... uh oh... making my head
> hurt now... So I get cylinder #1 at TDC on compression stroke, point
> the rotor to the terminal cap I want to be #1, note the position of
> the bottom of the distributor shaft so that I could figure out about
> what orientation the oil pump is at, then use a screwdriver to turn
> the oil pump to that approximate location, then hope for the best and
> drop the distributor in? I see trouble coming. heh heh
>
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!

Steve G

Here's what you're looking for. When you drop the dist in you will index
the dist teeth with the camshaft gear teeth. The distributor will probably
not drop all the way down because the oil pump drive is not aligned. Let it
drop in as far as it will go. Now crank it over on the starter keeping a
very light downward pressure on the dist with your hand. (usually just the
weight of the dist is enough, but just to be sure keep a little downward
pressure on it). When the oil pump shaft and the dist align the dist will
drop down the rest of the way. Bring the crank around to TDC on no 1 again
and recheck your timing. You do know that there is 2 TDC's for No1 don't
you? Aligning the marks on the crank damper is not enough. You need to
have the plug out to ensure you are on the compression stroke. Also, when
you go to put the dist in remember that the gear teeth are spiral cut. As
the dist drops into place the rotor will move forward a bit so make sure
you've compensated for that.
Now you've cranked it over, the dist has dropped all the way down and you're
back at TDC of the compression stroke for #1. It's now time to time it.
The rotor pointing to the number one terminal is not what determines when
that plug fires. Go back down to your timing marks on the crank and set
them at whatever the tuneup tag or your spec book calls for initial timing.
If you have a points type ignition and the points are properly gapped you
want to turn the dist body first with the direction of rotation until you
are sure the points are closed. Now pull it back opposite to rotation until
the points just open. For an even more precise setting you can attach a 12
volt test light to the lead on the coil that runs to the dist and turn the
key on. As the points just open and break contact the test light will
illuminate. Lock the dist down at the point the light just went on. Ensure
the rotor is pointing to number one. If you have transistor ign you can't
run the same procedure, but if you align the small teeth on the relucter
with the pickup in the dist you should be very close. This part is what
saves you all the guesswork, headache and hassles of moving the dist back
and forth while trying to start it and getting it to run well enough to get
your timing light on it. Follow this procedure and you will only be out a
couple of degrees (insignificant) when you recheck with your timing light.
Steve G.
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:16nr70p40vv06am3ooj48ma4jih1dmhobv@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 00:50:17 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> >Stick a long screwdriver in there and turn the pump anywhere you want it.
>
> Yeah, but that's not what I'm asking. Does the end of the distributor
> shaft mesh with it? It sounds like it does. If that's the case then
> there is only two ways to install the distributor (180 degrees out of
> phase from each other) for any given engine rotation unless you use a
> screwdriver to turn the oil pump to just the right rotation so that it
> lines up with the distributor shaft. That brings up another question,
> though... If the distributor has been out of the engine and the
> engine has been turned over some (like mine has) then there's no way
> of knowing what the orientation of the oil pump is so that you can
> line the distributor up with it right... uh oh... making my head
> hurt now... So I get cylinder #1 at TDC on compression stroke, point
> the rotor to the terminal cap I want to be #1, note the position of
> the bottom of the distributor shaft so that I could figure out about
> what orientation the oil pump is at, then use a screwdriver to turn
> the oil pump to that approximate location, then hope for the best and
> drop the distributor in? I see trouble coming. heh heh
>
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!

Steve G

Here's what you're looking for. When you drop the dist in you will index
the dist teeth with the camshaft gear teeth. The distributor will probably
not drop all the way down because the oil pump drive is not aligned. Let it
drop in as far as it will go. Now crank it over on the starter keeping a
very light downward pressure on the dist with your hand. (usually just the
weight of the dist is enough, but just to be sure keep a little downward
pressure on it). When the oil pump shaft and the dist align the dist will
drop down the rest of the way. Bring the crank around to TDC on no 1 again
and recheck your timing. You do know that there is 2 TDC's for No1 don't
you? Aligning the marks on the crank damper is not enough. You need to
have the plug out to ensure you are on the compression stroke. Also, when
you go to put the dist in remember that the gear teeth are spiral cut. As
the dist drops into place the rotor will move forward a bit so make sure
you've compensated for that.
Now you've cranked it over, the dist has dropped all the way down and you're
back at TDC of the compression stroke for #1. It's now time to time it.
The rotor pointing to the number one terminal is not what determines when
that plug fires. Go back down to your timing marks on the crank and set
them at whatever the tuneup tag or your spec book calls for initial timing.
If you have a points type ignition and the points are properly gapped you
want to turn the dist body first with the direction of rotation until you
are sure the points are closed. Now pull it back opposite to rotation until
the points just open. For an even more precise setting you can attach a 12
volt test light to the lead on the coil that runs to the dist and turn the
key on. As the points just open and break contact the test light will
illuminate. Lock the dist down at the point the light just went on. Ensure
the rotor is pointing to number one. If you have transistor ign you can't
run the same procedure, but if you align the small teeth on the relucter
with the pickup in the dist you should be very close. This part is what
saves you all the guesswork, headache and hassles of moving the dist back
and forth while trying to start it and getting it to run well enough to get
your timing light on it. Follow this procedure and you will only be out a
couple of degrees (insignificant) when you recheck with your timing light.
Steve G.
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:16nr70p40vv06am3ooj48ma4jih1dmhobv@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 00:50:17 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> >Stick a long screwdriver in there and turn the pump anywhere you want it.
>
> Yeah, but that's not what I'm asking. Does the end of the distributor
> shaft mesh with it? It sounds like it does. If that's the case then
> there is only two ways to install the distributor (180 degrees out of
> phase from each other) for any given engine rotation unless you use a
> screwdriver to turn the oil pump to just the right rotation so that it
> lines up with the distributor shaft. That brings up another question,
> though... If the distributor has been out of the engine and the
> engine has been turned over some (like mine has) then there's no way
> of knowing what the orientation of the oil pump is so that you can
> line the distributor up with it right... uh oh... making my head
> hurt now... So I get cylinder #1 at TDC on compression stroke, point
> the rotor to the terminal cap I want to be #1, note the position of
> the bottom of the distributor shaft so that I could figure out about
> what orientation the oil pump is at, then use a screwdriver to turn
> the oil pump to that approximate location, then hope for the best and
> drop the distributor in? I see trouble coming. heh heh
>
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!

Mike Romain

You are thinking too much.....
;-)

Get the engine to TDC and the timing mark on 0 with your finger in #1
plug hole to feel for the compression as you do this.

Stock the vacuum module and the rotor point to the front right of the
engine.

This makes the plug wires line up without crossing.

You might have to pull it out and put it back several times to get it
right because it (the rotor) turns as it seats down.

The bottom of the distributor does plug into the oil pump. This means
you will need a long screw driver to turn the oil pump slot so the
distributor can grab it.

This means every time you pull it up to move it a notch on the gear you
need to turn the oil pump slot with the screwdriver.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Shaggie wrote:
>
> OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!

Mike Romain

You are thinking too much.....
;-)

Get the engine to TDC and the timing mark on 0 with your finger in #1
plug hole to feel for the compression as you do this.

Stock the vacuum module and the rotor point to the front right of the
engine.

This makes the plug wires line up without crossing.

You might have to pull it out and put it back several times to get it
right because it (the rotor) turns as it seats down.

The bottom of the distributor does plug into the oil pump. This means
you will need a long screw driver to turn the oil pump slot so the
distributor can grab it.

This means every time you pull it up to move it a notch on the gear you
need to turn the oil pump slot with the screwdriver.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Shaggie wrote:
>
> OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!

Mike Romain

You are thinking too much.....
;-)

Get the engine to TDC and the timing mark on 0 with your finger in #1
plug hole to feel for the compression as you do this.

Stock the vacuum module and the rotor point to the front right of the
engine.

This makes the plug wires line up without crossing.

You might have to pull it out and put it back several times to get it
right because it (the rotor) turns as it seats down.

The bottom of the distributor does plug into the oil pump. This means
you will need a long screw driver to turn the oil pump slot so the
distributor can grab it.

This means every time you pull it up to move it a notch on the gear you
need to turn the oil pump slot with the screwdriver.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Shaggie wrote:
>
> OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!