followup distributor questions
04-17-2004, 12:23 AM
#81
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
To clarify:
In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
want to?
Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
to electronic because I tired of doing this.
All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
Regards,
DAve
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are confused.....
> ;-)
>
> The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> then you clock the wires from there.
>
> Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> should be to the front drivers side corner.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> CRWLR wrote:
>
>>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
>>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
>>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>>
>>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
>>
>>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
>>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
>>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
>>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
>>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
>>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
>>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
>>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
>>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
>>>
>>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>>:wq!
In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
want to?
Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
to electronic because I tired of doing this.
All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
Regards,
DAve
Mike Romain wrote:
> You are confused.....
> ;-)
>
> The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> then you clock the wires from there.
>
> Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> should be to the front drivers side corner.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> CRWLR wrote:
>
>>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
>>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
>>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>>
>>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
>>
>>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
>>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
>>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
>>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
>>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
>>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
>>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
>>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
>>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
>>>
>>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>>:wq!
04-17-2004, 12:40 AM
#82
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
They have both the gear and the 'screwdriver' on them.
The gear ties them into the camshaft and the 'screwdriver' goes into the
oil pump top to fire up the oil pump.
So basically the cam turns the rotor shaft via that gear which spins up
the oil pump via the 'screwdriver.
You can put the distributor in any way by just turning the oil pump slot
so the 'screwdriver' end fits in.
There is a 'clean' or 'factory' way to set them. On this engine that
means the rotor and vacuum pickup point to the front drivers side of the
engine.
The 'only' reason for this is to have a 'standard' where a stock set of
plug wires won't cross each other so you don't get misses. The wires
install nice and 'pretty' and don't cross.
Mike
DaveW wrote:
>
> To clarify:
>
> In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
> the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
> example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
> block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
> the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
> either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
> adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
>
> But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
> want to?
>
> Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
> turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
> way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
> off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
> particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
> to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
> Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
> to electronic because I tired of doing this.
>
> All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
> crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
>
> Regards,
>
> DAve
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > You are confused.....
> > ;-)
> >
> > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > then you clock the wires from there.
> >
> > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > CRWLR wrote:
> >
> >>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> >>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> >>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> >>
> >>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
> >>
> >>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> >>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> >>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> >>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> >>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> >>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> >>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> >>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> >>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >>>
> >>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >>>:wq!
The gear ties them into the camshaft and the 'screwdriver' goes into the
oil pump top to fire up the oil pump.
So basically the cam turns the rotor shaft via that gear which spins up
the oil pump via the 'screwdriver.
You can put the distributor in any way by just turning the oil pump slot
so the 'screwdriver' end fits in.
There is a 'clean' or 'factory' way to set them. On this engine that
means the rotor and vacuum pickup point to the front drivers side of the
engine.
The 'only' reason for this is to have a 'standard' where a stock set of
plug wires won't cross each other so you don't get misses. The wires
install nice and 'pretty' and don't cross.
Mike
DaveW wrote:
>
> To clarify:
>
> In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
> the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
> example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
> block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
> the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
> either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
> adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
>
> But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
> want to?
>
> Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
> turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
> way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
> off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
> particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
> to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
> Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
> to electronic because I tired of doing this.
>
> All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
> crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
>
> Regards,
>
> DAve
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > You are confused.....
> > ;-)
> >
> > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > then you clock the wires from there.
> >
> > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > CRWLR wrote:
> >
> >>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> >>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> >>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> >>
> >>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
> >>
> >>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> >>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> >>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> >>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> >>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> >>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> >>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> >>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> >>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >>>
> >>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >>>:wq!
04-17-2004, 12:40 AM
#83
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
They have both the gear and the 'screwdriver' on them.
The gear ties them into the camshaft and the 'screwdriver' goes into the
oil pump top to fire up the oil pump.
So basically the cam turns the rotor shaft via that gear which spins up
the oil pump via the 'screwdriver.
You can put the distributor in any way by just turning the oil pump slot
so the 'screwdriver' end fits in.
There is a 'clean' or 'factory' way to set them. On this engine that
means the rotor and vacuum pickup point to the front drivers side of the
engine.
The 'only' reason for this is to have a 'standard' where a stock set of
plug wires won't cross each other so you don't get misses. The wires
install nice and 'pretty' and don't cross.
Mike
DaveW wrote:
>
> To clarify:
>
> In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
> the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
> example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
> block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
> the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
> either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
> adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
>
> But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
> want to?
>
> Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
> turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
> way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
> off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
> particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
> to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
> Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
> to electronic because I tired of doing this.
>
> All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
> crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
>
> Regards,
>
> DAve
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > You are confused.....
> > ;-)
> >
> > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > then you clock the wires from there.
> >
> > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > CRWLR wrote:
> >
> >>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> >>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> >>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> >>
> >>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
> >>
> >>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> >>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> >>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> >>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> >>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> >>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> >>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> >>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> >>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >>>
> >>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >>>:wq!
The gear ties them into the camshaft and the 'screwdriver' goes into the
oil pump top to fire up the oil pump.
So basically the cam turns the rotor shaft via that gear which spins up
the oil pump via the 'screwdriver.
You can put the distributor in any way by just turning the oil pump slot
so the 'screwdriver' end fits in.
There is a 'clean' or 'factory' way to set them. On this engine that
means the rotor and vacuum pickup point to the front drivers side of the
engine.
The 'only' reason for this is to have a 'standard' where a stock set of
plug wires won't cross each other so you don't get misses. The wires
install nice and 'pretty' and don't cross.
Mike
DaveW wrote:
>
> To clarify:
>
> In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
> the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
> example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
> block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
> the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
> either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
> adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
>
> But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
> want to?
>
> Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
> turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
> way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
> off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
> particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
> to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
> Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
> to electronic because I tired of doing this.
>
> All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
> crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
>
> Regards,
>
> DAve
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > You are confused.....
> > ;-)
> >
> > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > then you clock the wires from there.
> >
> > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > CRWLR wrote:
> >
> >>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> >>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> >>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> >>
> >>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
> >>
> >>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> >>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> >>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> >>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> >>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> >>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> >>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> >>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> >>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >>>
> >>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >>>:wq!
04-17-2004, 12:40 AM
#84
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
They have both the gear and the 'screwdriver' on them.
The gear ties them into the camshaft and the 'screwdriver' goes into the
oil pump top to fire up the oil pump.
So basically the cam turns the rotor shaft via that gear which spins up
the oil pump via the 'screwdriver.
You can put the distributor in any way by just turning the oil pump slot
so the 'screwdriver' end fits in.
There is a 'clean' or 'factory' way to set them. On this engine that
means the rotor and vacuum pickup point to the front drivers side of the
engine.
The 'only' reason for this is to have a 'standard' where a stock set of
plug wires won't cross each other so you don't get misses. The wires
install nice and 'pretty' and don't cross.
Mike
DaveW wrote:
>
> To clarify:
>
> In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
> the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
> example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
> block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
> the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
> either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
> adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
>
> But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
> want to?
>
> Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
> turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
> way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
> off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
> particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
> to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
> Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
> to electronic because I tired of doing this.
>
> All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
> crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
>
> Regards,
>
> DAve
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > You are confused.....
> > ;-)
> >
> > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > then you clock the wires from there.
> >
> > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > CRWLR wrote:
> >
> >>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> >>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> >>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> >>
> >>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
> >>
> >>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> >>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> >>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> >>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> >>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> >>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> >>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> >>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> >>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >>>
> >>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >>>:wq!
The gear ties them into the camshaft and the 'screwdriver' goes into the
oil pump top to fire up the oil pump.
So basically the cam turns the rotor shaft via that gear which spins up
the oil pump via the 'screwdriver.
You can put the distributor in any way by just turning the oil pump slot
so the 'screwdriver' end fits in.
There is a 'clean' or 'factory' way to set them. On this engine that
means the rotor and vacuum pickup point to the front drivers side of the
engine.
The 'only' reason for this is to have a 'standard' where a stock set of
plug wires won't cross each other so you don't get misses. The wires
install nice and 'pretty' and don't cross.
Mike
DaveW wrote:
>
> To clarify:
>
> In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
> the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
> example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
> block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
> the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
> either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
> adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
>
> But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
> want to?
>
> Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
> turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
> way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
> off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
> particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
> to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
> Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
> to electronic because I tired of doing this.
>
> All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
> crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
>
> Regards,
>
> DAve
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > You are confused.....
> > ;-)
> >
> > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > then you clock the wires from there.
> >
> > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > CRWLR wrote:
> >
> >>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> >>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> >>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> >>
> >>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
> >>
> >>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> >>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> >>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> >>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> >>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> >>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> >>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> >>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> >>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >>>
> >>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >>>:wq!
04-17-2004, 12:40 AM
#85
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
They have both the gear and the 'screwdriver' on them.
The gear ties them into the camshaft and the 'screwdriver' goes into the
oil pump top to fire up the oil pump.
So basically the cam turns the rotor shaft via that gear which spins up
the oil pump via the 'screwdriver.
You can put the distributor in any way by just turning the oil pump slot
so the 'screwdriver' end fits in.
There is a 'clean' or 'factory' way to set them. On this engine that
means the rotor and vacuum pickup point to the front drivers side of the
engine.
The 'only' reason for this is to have a 'standard' where a stock set of
plug wires won't cross each other so you don't get misses. The wires
install nice and 'pretty' and don't cross.
Mike
DaveW wrote:
>
> To clarify:
>
> In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
> the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
> example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
> block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
> the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
> either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
> adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
>
> But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
> want to?
>
> Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
> turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
> way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
> off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
> particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
> to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
> Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
> to electronic because I tired of doing this.
>
> All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
> crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
>
> Regards,
>
> DAve
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > You are confused.....
> > ;-)
> >
> > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > then you clock the wires from there.
> >
> > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > CRWLR wrote:
> >
> >>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> >>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> >>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> >>
> >>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
> >>
> >>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> >>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> >>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> >>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> >>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> >>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> >>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> >>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> >>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >>>
> >>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >>>:wq!
The gear ties them into the camshaft and the 'screwdriver' goes into the
oil pump top to fire up the oil pump.
So basically the cam turns the rotor shaft via that gear which spins up
the oil pump via the 'screwdriver.
You can put the distributor in any way by just turning the oil pump slot
so the 'screwdriver' end fits in.
There is a 'clean' or 'factory' way to set them. On this engine that
means the rotor and vacuum pickup point to the front drivers side of the
engine.
The 'only' reason for this is to have a 'standard' where a stock set of
plug wires won't cross each other so you don't get misses. The wires
install nice and 'pretty' and don't cross.
Mike
DaveW wrote:
>
> To clarify:
>
> In general, there are two ways that distribtors mesh with the rest of
> the engine. They either have a gear on the bottom (mopar slant 6 for
> example) or a flat machined bottom like a big thick screwdriver (small
> block Mopar V8 for example). The former can go in any number of ways,
> the latter can go the right way or 180 degrees off. Theoretically,
> either could be made to work in any position, by manipulating the other
> adjustment and rearranging the plug wires.
>
> But it is kind of like saying the work "turd" on television. Who would
> want to?
>
> Note that the gear type are usually "slanted" so that the rotor will
> turn a bit as the gears mesh. Just have a look see and determine which
> way it will turn as you lower the distributor. I used to get my slant 6s
> off by a tooth the first time and had to try again. Note that on that
> particular engine (I had 4 of them over the years) you more or less had
> to pull the entire distributor to change the points. My last one, 1963
> Dodge Dart (complete with pushbutton Torqueflite) finally got converted
> to electronic because I tired of doing this.
>
> All distributors, as far as I know, are mechanically connected to the
> crankshaft in order to keep them in time with the pistons!
>
> Regards,
>
> DAve
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > You are confused.....
> > ;-)
> >
> > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > then you clock the wires from there.
> >
> > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > CRWLR wrote:
> >
> >>The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> >>off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> >>only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> >>
> >>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >>news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com. ..
> >>
> >>>OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> >>>understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> >>>a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> >>>flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> >>>oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> >>>that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> >>>install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> >>>each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> >>>don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >>>
> >>>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >>>:wq!
04-17-2004, 07:13 AM
#86
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:57:18 -0400, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Ouch.....
>
>Ok, well.....
>
>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>owns it along to use it.
>
>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>
>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>the crankshaft pulley.
OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
the distributor to get it timed correctly." Not sure if his "ouch"
was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
input.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>> >making it.
>>
>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>
>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >
>> >Shaggie wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Ouch.....
>
>Ok, well.....
>
>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>owns it along to use it.
>
>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>
>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>the crankshaft pulley.
OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
the distributor to get it timed correctly." Not sure if his "ouch"
was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
input.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>> >making it.
>>
>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>
>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >
>> >Shaggie wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
04-17-2004, 07:13 AM
#87
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:57:18 -0400, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Ouch.....
>
>Ok, well.....
>
>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>owns it along to use it.
>
>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>
>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>the crankshaft pulley.
OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
the distributor to get it timed correctly." Not sure if his "ouch"
was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
input.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>> >making it.
>>
>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>
>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >
>> >Shaggie wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Ouch.....
>
>Ok, well.....
>
>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>owns it along to use it.
>
>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>
>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>the crankshaft pulley.
OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
the distributor to get it timed correctly." Not sure if his "ouch"
was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
input.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>> >making it.
>>
>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>
>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >
>> >Shaggie wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
04-17-2004, 07:13 AM
#88
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:57:18 -0400, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Ouch.....
>
>Ok, well.....
>
>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>owns it along to use it.
>
>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>
>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>the crankshaft pulley.
OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
the distributor to get it timed correctly." Not sure if his "ouch"
was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
input.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>> >making it.
>>
>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>
>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >
>> >Shaggie wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Ouch.....
>
>Ok, well.....
>
>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>owns it along to use it.
>
>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>
>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>the crankshaft pulley.
OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
the distributor to get it timed correctly." Not sure if his "ouch"
was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
input.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>> >making it.
>>
>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>
>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >
>> >Shaggie wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
04-17-2004, 07:13 AM
#89
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:57:18 -0400, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Ouch.....
>
>Ok, well.....
>
>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>owns it along to use it.
>
>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>
>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>the crankshaft pulley.
OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
the distributor to get it timed correctly." Not sure if his "ouch"
was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
input.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>> >making it.
>>
>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>
>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >
>> >Shaggie wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Ouch.....
>
>Ok, well.....
>
>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>owns it along to use it.
>
>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>
>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>the crankshaft pulley.
OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
the distributor to get it timed correctly." Not sure if his "ouch"
was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
input.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>> >making it.
>>
>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>
>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >
>> >Shaggie wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
04-17-2004, 07:43 AM
#90
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 07:13:28 -0400, Shaggie <me@hotmail.com> wrote:
>On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:57:18 -0400, Mike Romain
><romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>>Ouch.....
>>
>>Ok, well.....
>>
>>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>>owns it along to use it.
>>
>>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>>
>>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>>the crankshaft pulley.
>
>OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
>just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
>right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
>close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
>a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
>the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
>out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
>"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
>saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
>up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
>and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
>the distributor to get it timed correctly."
Mike, actually I'm about 95% sure that's what you're saying. You've
been really clear in your responses to me. What's confusing me is
that some people are posting things like how they dropped their
distributor in and it was off by a tooth or two and they pulled it out
and put it back in several times, as if it was critical to somehow get
it in there lined up with "the right teeth" which doesn't seem to make
a bit of sense to me at all. There have been (as expected) some
conflicting responses to my questions which can confuse things (or at
least can confuse me.) As far as the shaft is concerned, the
important things (I think) is that the end meshes with the oil pump
and the spiral gear meshes with the cam (hard to mess that up) and
that it seats correctly. After that, like you said earlier as long as
the rotor is pointing to the terminal on the cap that is wired to
cylinder #1 when piston #1 is at TDC on compression stroke (and other
cylinders wired to the right terminal ( 1-8-4-3-6-7-5-2 order,
clockwise) then it should be good enough to start the Jeep up and then
set the timing with a timing light. The shaft and the housing/cap
assembly are kind of two different steps in the process and are
entirely two different steps if you don't care about where your plug
wires are run. Get the shaft to drop in and mesh with oil pump and
cam, them you could turn the housing around 20 times if you feel like
it to get #1 terminal to line up with the rotor when cylinder #1 is at
tdc on compression. Then wire up your tangle of wires. :-) I'm
trying to keep #1 at the front on the driver's side, by the way. The
only drawback I see for me to not pull the distributor out at this
point and reseat it is that I may have to turn the housing a little
more in the clockwise direction than I might like which will leave my
terminals in sub-optimal positions for my pre-cut wires. Mike, please
correct me if that last statement of mine is incorrect. Thanks again.
> Not sure if his "ouch"
>was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
>"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
>it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
>before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
>certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
>I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
>know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
>going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
>input.
>
>
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>>Shaggie wrote:
>>>
>>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>>> >making it.
>>>
>>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>>
>>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>> >
>>> >Shaggie wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>>
>>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>> :wq!
>
>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>:wq!
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
>On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:57:18 -0400, Mike Romain
><romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>>Ouch.....
>>
>>Ok, well.....
>>
>>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>>owns it along to use it.
>>
>>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>>
>>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>>the crankshaft pulley.
>
>OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
>just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
>right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
>close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
>a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
>the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
>out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
>"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
>saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
>up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
>and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
>the distributor to get it timed correctly."
Mike, actually I'm about 95% sure that's what you're saying. You've
been really clear in your responses to me. What's confusing me is
that some people are posting things like how they dropped their
distributor in and it was off by a tooth or two and they pulled it out
and put it back in several times, as if it was critical to somehow get
it in there lined up with "the right teeth" which doesn't seem to make
a bit of sense to me at all. There have been (as expected) some
conflicting responses to my questions which can confuse things (or at
least can confuse me.) As far as the shaft is concerned, the
important things (I think) is that the end meshes with the oil pump
and the spiral gear meshes with the cam (hard to mess that up) and
that it seats correctly. After that, like you said earlier as long as
the rotor is pointing to the terminal on the cap that is wired to
cylinder #1 when piston #1 is at TDC on compression stroke (and other
cylinders wired to the right terminal ( 1-8-4-3-6-7-5-2 order,
clockwise) then it should be good enough to start the Jeep up and then
set the timing with a timing light. The shaft and the housing/cap
assembly are kind of two different steps in the process and are
entirely two different steps if you don't care about where your plug
wires are run. Get the shaft to drop in and mesh with oil pump and
cam, them you could turn the housing around 20 times if you feel like
it to get #1 terminal to line up with the rotor when cylinder #1 is at
tdc on compression. Then wire up your tangle of wires. :-) I'm
trying to keep #1 at the front on the driver's side, by the way. The
only drawback I see for me to not pull the distributor out at this
point and reseat it is that I may have to turn the housing a little
more in the clockwise direction than I might like which will leave my
terminals in sub-optimal positions for my pre-cut wires. Mike, please
correct me if that last statement of mine is incorrect. Thanks again.
> Not sure if his "ouch"
>was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
>"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
>it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
>before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
>certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
>I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
>know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
>going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
>input.
>
>
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>>Shaggie wrote:
>>>
>>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>>> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>>> >making it.
>>>
>>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>>
>>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>> >
>>> >Shaggie wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>>
>>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>> :wq!
>
>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>:wq!
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!