I am not that confused.

Theoretically, you are absolutely correct, but in practice, I am more
correct. It is certainly POSSIBLE to do what you said, but in all
practicality, it never happens that way. As a matter of houskeeping later
on, the distributor must be installed in the right place. There are two
places that qualify as the right place, and the second of those requires
changing the wires around.




"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4080A890.3094FA39@sympatico.ca...
> You are confused.....
> ;-)
>
> The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> then you clock the wires from there.
>
> Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> should be to the front drivers side corner.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> CRWLR wrote:
> >
> > The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is
driven
> > off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> > only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> >
> > "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> > > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> > > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> > > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> > >
> > > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > > :wq!

 

I am not that confused.

Theoretically, you are absolutely correct, but in practice, I am more
correct. It is certainly POSSIBLE to do what you said, but in all
practicality, it never happens that way. As a matter of houskeeping later
on, the distributor must be installed in the right place. There are two
places that qualify as the right place, and the second of those requires
changing the wires around.




"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4080A890.3094FA39@sympatico.ca...
> You are confused.....
> ;-)
>
> The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> then you clock the wires from there.
>
> Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> should be to the front drivers side corner.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> CRWLR wrote:
> >
> > The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is
driven
> > off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> > only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> >
> > "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> > > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> > > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> > > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> > >
> > > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > > :wq!

 

I am not that confused.

Theoretically, you are absolutely correct, but in practice, I am more
correct. It is certainly POSSIBLE to do what you said, but in all
practicality, it never happens that way. As a matter of houskeeping later
on, the distributor must be installed in the right place. There are two
places that qualify as the right place, and the second of those requires
changing the wires around.




"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4080A890.3094FA39@sympatico.ca...
> You are confused.....
> ;-)
>
> The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> then you clock the wires from there.
>
> Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> should be to the front drivers side corner.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> CRWLR wrote:
> >
> > The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is
driven
> > off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> > only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> >
> > "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> > > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> > > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> > > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> > >
> > > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > > :wq!

 

I think you might be a tad confused. Mike is right, you can place #1
anywhere you want. If you picture looking down at the top of the cap as if
you're looking at a clock on the wall (the clock being the dist cap on a 12
cyl engine with firing order 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,..12) You have the rotor pointed
to no 1 when the crank's sitting with the #1 cyl at TDC on comp stroke. You
don't turn the engine over at all but you lift the dist and turn the rotor
to point to the 3 o'clock position. You pull all of the wires out of the
cap and plug the #1 wire in the 3 o'clock position, #2 in the 4 o'clock
position, etc. it's exactly the same thing.

So, I don't understand what you're saying about it never happening this
way, in fact with most shade tree mechs it often happens this way. They
pulled the dist and wires and have no clue as to where #1 was originally on
the cap so they start where ever they want. Nothing really wrong with that
except for the tune-up guy that goes to connect his timing light/scope and
hooks on the wire that is the factory #1 position.

How can there be only 2 right places? I think you're confusing this
discussion with whether you are on TDC of the compression stroke vs the
exhaust stroke. Not at all what we're talking about. Assuming you've
stopped the crank on it's TDC timing mark and you've ensured you're on the
compression stroke, (both valves closed, not in the overlap, one closing and
the other opening)you can now place #1 anywhere on the cap you want.
Older Chrsler v-8's didn't have a gear on the dist shaft, they just had
a slot on the end. The gear was actually on a seperate oil drive shaft that
you dropped in when the intake was off. Any time you removed the dist you
just had to align the slot and you were either on or 180 degrees out. You
could correct it by lifting the dist and turning it half a turn or move all
of the wires 180 degrees on the cap. Could that be what you're confusing?
Steve
"CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message
news:1085pqvmqhqfqfd@corp.supernews.com...
> I am not that confused.
>
> Theoretically, you are absolutely correct, but in practice, I am more
> correct. It is certainly POSSIBLE to do what you said, but in all
> practicality, it never happens that way. As a matter of houskeeping later
> on, the distributor must be installed in the right place. There are two
> places that qualify as the right place, and the second of those requires
> changing the wires around.
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4080A890.3094FA39@sympatico.ca...
> > You are confused.....
> > ;-)
> >
> > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > then you clock the wires from there.
> >
> > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > CRWLR wrote:
> > >
> > > The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is
> driven
> > > off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but
it
> > > only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> > >
> > > "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > > > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so
I
> > > > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh
with
> > > > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > > > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > > > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > > > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > > > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart
from
> > > > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > > > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> > > >
> > > > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > > > :wq!
>
>

 

I think you might be a tad confused. Mike is right, you can place #1
anywhere you want. If you picture looking down at the top of the cap as if
you're looking at a clock on the wall (the clock being the dist cap on a 12
cyl engine with firing order 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,..12) You have the rotor pointed
to no 1 when the crank's sitting with the #1 cyl at TDC on comp stroke. You
don't turn the engine over at all but you lift the dist and turn the rotor
to point to the 3 o'clock position. You pull all of the wires out of the
cap and plug the #1 wire in the 3 o'clock position, #2 in the 4 o'clock
position, etc. it's exactly the same thing.

So, I don't understand what you're saying about it never happening this
way, in fact with most shade tree mechs it often happens this way. They
pulled the dist and wires and have no clue as to where #1 was originally on
the cap so they start where ever they want. Nothing really wrong with that
except for the tune-up guy that goes to connect his timing light/scope and
hooks on the wire that is the factory #1 position.

How can there be only 2 right places? I think you're confusing this
discussion with whether you are on TDC of the compression stroke vs the
exhaust stroke. Not at all what we're talking about. Assuming you've
stopped the crank on it's TDC timing mark and you've ensured you're on the
compression stroke, (both valves closed, not in the overlap, one closing and
the other opening)you can now place #1 anywhere on the cap you want.
Older Chrsler v-8's didn't have a gear on the dist shaft, they just had
a slot on the end. The gear was actually on a seperate oil drive shaft that
you dropped in when the intake was off. Any time you removed the dist you
just had to align the slot and you were either on or 180 degrees out. You
could correct it by lifting the dist and turning it half a turn or move all
of the wires 180 degrees on the cap. Could that be what you're confusing?
Steve
"CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message
news:1085pqvmqhqfqfd@corp.supernews.com...
> I am not that confused.
>
> Theoretically, you are absolutely correct, but in practice, I am more
> correct. It is certainly POSSIBLE to do what you said, but in all
> practicality, it never happens that way. As a matter of houskeeping later
> on, the distributor must be installed in the right place. There are two
> places that qualify as the right place, and the second of those requires
> changing the wires around.
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4080A890.3094FA39@sympatico.ca...
> > You are confused.....
> > ;-)
> >
> > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > then you clock the wires from there.
> >
> > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > CRWLR wrote:
> > >
> > > The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is
> driven
> > > off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but
it
> > > only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> > >
> > > "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > > > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so
I
> > > > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh
with
> > > > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > > > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > > > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > > > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > > > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart
from
> > > > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > > > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> > > >
> > > > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > > > :wq!
>
>

 

I think you might be a tad confused. Mike is right, you can place #1
anywhere you want. If you picture looking down at the top of the cap as if
you're looking at a clock on the wall (the clock being the dist cap on a 12
cyl engine with firing order 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,..12) You have the rotor pointed
to no 1 when the crank's sitting with the #1 cyl at TDC on comp stroke. You
don't turn the engine over at all but you lift the dist and turn the rotor
to point to the 3 o'clock position. You pull all of the wires out of the
cap and plug the #1 wire in the 3 o'clock position, #2 in the 4 o'clock
position, etc. it's exactly the same thing.

So, I don't understand what you're saying about it never happening this
way, in fact with most shade tree mechs it often happens this way. They
pulled the dist and wires and have no clue as to where #1 was originally on
the cap so they start where ever they want. Nothing really wrong with that
except for the tune-up guy that goes to connect his timing light/scope and
hooks on the wire that is the factory #1 position.

How can there be only 2 right places? I think you're confusing this
discussion with whether you are on TDC of the compression stroke vs the
exhaust stroke. Not at all what we're talking about. Assuming you've
stopped the crank on it's TDC timing mark and you've ensured you're on the
compression stroke, (both valves closed, not in the overlap, one closing and
the other opening)you can now place #1 anywhere on the cap you want.
Older Chrsler v-8's didn't have a gear on the dist shaft, they just had
a slot on the end. The gear was actually on a seperate oil drive shaft that
you dropped in when the intake was off. Any time you removed the dist you
just had to align the slot and you were either on or 180 degrees out. You
could correct it by lifting the dist and turning it half a turn or move all
of the wires 180 degrees on the cap. Could that be what you're confusing?
Steve
"CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message
news:1085pqvmqhqfqfd@corp.supernews.com...
> I am not that confused.
>
> Theoretically, you are absolutely correct, but in practice, I am more
> correct. It is certainly POSSIBLE to do what you said, but in all
> practicality, it never happens that way. As a matter of houskeeping later
> on, the distributor must be installed in the right place. There are two
> places that qualify as the right place, and the second of those requires
> changing the wires around.
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4080A890.3094FA39@sympatico.ca...
> > You are confused.....
> > ;-)
> >
> > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > then you clock the wires from there.
> >
> > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > CRWLR wrote:
> > >
> > > The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is
> driven
> > > off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but
it
> > > only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> > >
> > > "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > > > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so
I
> > > > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh
with
> > > > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > > > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > > > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > > > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > > > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart
from
> > > > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > > > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> > > >
> > > > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > > > :wq!
>
>

 

I think you might be a tad confused. Mike is right, you can place #1
anywhere you want. If you picture looking down at the top of the cap as if
you're looking at a clock on the wall (the clock being the dist cap on a 12
cyl engine with firing order 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,..12) You have the rotor pointed
to no 1 when the crank's sitting with the #1 cyl at TDC on comp stroke. You
don't turn the engine over at all but you lift the dist and turn the rotor
to point to the 3 o'clock position. You pull all of the wires out of the
cap and plug the #1 wire in the 3 o'clock position, #2 in the 4 o'clock
position, etc. it's exactly the same thing.

So, I don't understand what you're saying about it never happening this
way, in fact with most shade tree mechs it often happens this way. They
pulled the dist and wires and have no clue as to where #1 was originally on
the cap so they start where ever they want. Nothing really wrong with that
except for the tune-up guy that goes to connect his timing light/scope and
hooks on the wire that is the factory #1 position.

How can there be only 2 right places? I think you're confusing this
discussion with whether you are on TDC of the compression stroke vs the
exhaust stroke. Not at all what we're talking about. Assuming you've
stopped the crank on it's TDC timing mark and you've ensured you're on the
compression stroke, (both valves closed, not in the overlap, one closing and
the other opening)you can now place #1 anywhere on the cap you want.
Older Chrsler v-8's didn't have a gear on the dist shaft, they just had
a slot on the end. The gear was actually on a seperate oil drive shaft that
you dropped in when the intake was off. Any time you removed the dist you
just had to align the slot and you were either on or 180 degrees out. You
could correct it by lifting the dist and turning it half a turn or move all
of the wires 180 degrees on the cap. Could that be what you're confusing?
Steve
"CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message
news:1085pqvmqhqfqfd@corp.supernews.com...
> I am not that confused.
>
> Theoretically, you are absolutely correct, but in practice, I am more
> correct. It is certainly POSSIBLE to do what you said, but in all
> practicality, it never happens that way. As a matter of houskeeping later
> on, the distributor must be installed in the right place. There are two
> places that qualify as the right place, and the second of those requires
> changing the wires around.
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4080A890.3094FA39@sympatico.ca...
> > You are confused.....
> > ;-)
> >
> > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
> > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > then you clock the wires from there.
> >
> > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > CRWLR wrote:
> > >
> > > The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is
> driven
> > > off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but
it
> > > only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> > >
> > > "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > > > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so
I
> > > > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh
with
> > > > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > > > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > > > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > > > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > > > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart
from
> > > > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > > > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> > > >
> > > > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > > > :wq!
>
>

 

I guess that I am making the rash assumption that the distributor cap
actually has #1 marked on it, and that one might actually expect the #1
cylinder to be connected to it.

If I avoid making such an assumption, or multiple assumptions - as the case
may be - then it is certainly possible to put the distributor any way one
wants it to be, or take it which ever way it lands. But the method of
putting it in the "right" way is not difficult, and the confusion that can
result later from doing it the "wrong" way can be huge.

I understand fully the idea of looking down on the top and placing the rotor
in the right direction without regard to the mark on the distributor cap
that tells one where the #1 plug should be connected. My point is that
should one observe that mark, then there are things to consider that will
make that mark true or false.



"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:4ACgc.172230$Ig.117625@pd7tw2no...
> I think you might be a tad confused. Mike is right, you can place #1
> anywhere you want. If you picture looking down at the top of the cap as
if
> you're looking at a clock on the wall (the clock being the dist cap on a
12
> cyl engine with firing order 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,..12) You have the rotor
pointed
> to no 1 when the crank's sitting with the #1 cyl at TDC on comp stroke.
You
> don't turn the engine over at all but you lift the dist and turn the rotor
> to point to the 3 o'clock position. You pull all of the wires out of the
> cap and plug the #1 wire in the 3 o'clock position, #2 in the 4 o'clock
> position, etc. it's exactly the same thing.
>
> So, I don't understand what you're saying about it never happening this
> way, in fact with most shade tree mechs it often happens this way. They
> pulled the dist and wires and have no clue as to where #1 was originally
on
> the cap so they start where ever they want. Nothing really wrong with
that
> except for the tune-up guy that goes to connect his timing light/scope and
> hooks on the wire that is the factory #1 position.
>
> How can there be only 2 right places? I think you're confusing this
> discussion with whether you are on TDC of the compression stroke vs the
> exhaust stroke. Not at all what we're talking about. Assuming you've
> stopped the crank on it's TDC timing mark and you've ensured you're on the
> compression stroke, (both valves closed, not in the overlap, one closing
and
> the other opening)you can now place #1 anywhere on the cap you want.
> Older Chrsler v-8's didn't have a gear on the dist shaft, they just
had
> a slot on the end. The gear was actually on a seperate oil drive shaft
that
> you dropped in when the intake was off. Any time you removed the dist you
> just had to align the slot and you were either on or 180 degrees out. You
> could correct it by lifting the dist and turning it half a turn or move
all
> of the wires 180 degrees on the cap. Could that be what you're confusing?
> Steve
> "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message
> news:1085pqvmqhqfqfd@corp.supernews.com...
> > I am not that confused.
> >
> > Theoretically, you are absolutely correct, but in practice, I am more
> > correct. It is certainly POSSIBLE to do what you said, but in all
> > practicality, it never happens that way. As a matter of houskeeping
later
> > on, the distributor must be installed in the right place. There are two
> > places that qualify as the right place, and the second of those requires
> > changing the wires around.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:4080A890.3094FA39@sympatico.ca...
> > > You are confused.....
> > > ;-)
> > >
> > > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing
when
> > > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > > then you clock the wires from there.
> > >
> > > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > CRWLR wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is
> > driven
> > > > off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position,
but
> it
> > > > only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> > > >
> > > > "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > > > > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just
so
> I
> > > > > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh
> with
> > > > > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > > > > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with
the
> > > > > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all,
doesn't
> > > > > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can
only
> > > > > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart
> from
> > > > > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > > > > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> > > > >
> > > > > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > > > > :wq!
> >
> >
>
>

 

I guess that I am making the rash assumption that the distributor cap
actually has #1 marked on it, and that one might actually expect the #1
cylinder to be connected to it.

If I avoid making such an assumption, or multiple assumptions - as the case
may be - then it is certainly possible to put the distributor any way one
wants it to be, or take it which ever way it lands. But the method of
putting it in the "right" way is not difficult, and the confusion that can
result later from doing it the "wrong" way can be huge.

I understand fully the idea of looking down on the top and placing the rotor
in the right direction without regard to the mark on the distributor cap
that tells one where the #1 plug should be connected. My point is that
should one observe that mark, then there are things to consider that will
make that mark true or false.



"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:4ACgc.172230$Ig.117625@pd7tw2no...
> I think you might be a tad confused. Mike is right, you can place #1
> anywhere you want. If you picture looking down at the top of the cap as
if
> you're looking at a clock on the wall (the clock being the dist cap on a
12
> cyl engine with firing order 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,..12) You have the rotor
pointed
> to no 1 when the crank's sitting with the #1 cyl at TDC on comp stroke.
You
> don't turn the engine over at all but you lift the dist and turn the rotor
> to point to the 3 o'clock position. You pull all of the wires out of the
> cap and plug the #1 wire in the 3 o'clock position, #2 in the 4 o'clock
> position, etc. it's exactly the same thing.
>
> So, I don't understand what you're saying about it never happening this
> way, in fact with most shade tree mechs it often happens this way. They
> pulled the dist and wires and have no clue as to where #1 was originally
on
> the cap so they start where ever they want. Nothing really wrong with
that
> except for the tune-up guy that goes to connect his timing light/scope and
> hooks on the wire that is the factory #1 position.
>
> How can there be only 2 right places? I think you're confusing this
> discussion with whether you are on TDC of the compression stroke vs the
> exhaust stroke. Not at all what we're talking about. Assuming you've
> stopped the crank on it's TDC timing mark and you've ensured you're on the
> compression stroke, (both valves closed, not in the overlap, one closing
and
> the other opening)you can now place #1 anywhere on the cap you want.
> Older Chrsler v-8's didn't have a gear on the dist shaft, they just
had
> a slot on the end. The gear was actually on a seperate oil drive shaft
that
> you dropped in when the intake was off. Any time you removed the dist you
> just had to align the slot and you were either on or 180 degrees out. You
> could correct it by lifting the dist and turning it half a turn or move
all
> of the wires 180 degrees on the cap. Could that be what you're confusing?
> Steve
> "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message
> news:1085pqvmqhqfqfd@corp.supernews.com...
> > I am not that confused.
> >
> > Theoretically, you are absolutely correct, but in practice, I am more
> > correct. It is certainly POSSIBLE to do what you said, but in all
> > practicality, it never happens that way. As a matter of houskeeping
later
> > on, the distributor must be installed in the right place. There are two
> > places that qualify as the right place, and the second of those requires
> > changing the wires around.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:4080A890.3094FA39@sympatico.ca...
> > > You are confused.....
> > > ;-)
> > >
> > > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing
when
> > > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > > then you clock the wires from there.
> > >
> > > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > CRWLR wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is
> > driven
> > > > off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position,
but
> it
> > > > only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> > > >
> > > > "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > > > > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just
so
> I
> > > > > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh
> with
> > > > > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > > > > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with
the
> > > > > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all,
doesn't
> > > > > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can
only
> > > > > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart
> from
> > > > > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > > > > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> > > > >
> > > > > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > > > > :wq!
> >
> >
>
>

 

I guess that I am making the rash assumption that the distributor cap
actually has #1 marked on it, and that one might actually expect the #1
cylinder to be connected to it.

If I avoid making such an assumption, or multiple assumptions - as the case
may be - then it is certainly possible to put the distributor any way one
wants it to be, or take it which ever way it lands. But the method of
putting it in the "right" way is not difficult, and the confusion that can
result later from doing it the "wrong" way can be huge.

I understand fully the idea of looking down on the top and placing the rotor
in the right direction without regard to the mark on the distributor cap
that tells one where the #1 plug should be connected. My point is that
should one observe that mark, then there are things to consider that will
make that mark true or false.



"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:4ACgc.172230$Ig.117625@pd7tw2no...
> I think you might be a tad confused. Mike is right, you can place #1
> anywhere you want. If you picture looking down at the top of the cap as
if
> you're looking at a clock on the wall (the clock being the dist cap on a
12
> cyl engine with firing order 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,..12) You have the rotor
pointed
> to no 1 when the crank's sitting with the #1 cyl at TDC on comp stroke.
You
> don't turn the engine over at all but you lift the dist and turn the rotor
> to point to the 3 o'clock position. You pull all of the wires out of the
> cap and plug the #1 wire in the 3 o'clock position, #2 in the 4 o'clock
> position, etc. it's exactly the same thing.
>
> So, I don't understand what you're saying about it never happening this
> way, in fact with most shade tree mechs it often happens this way. They
> pulled the dist and wires and have no clue as to where #1 was originally
on
> the cap so they start where ever they want. Nothing really wrong with
that
> except for the tune-up guy that goes to connect his timing light/scope and
> hooks on the wire that is the factory #1 position.
>
> How can there be only 2 right places? I think you're confusing this
> discussion with whether you are on TDC of the compression stroke vs the
> exhaust stroke. Not at all what we're talking about. Assuming you've
> stopped the crank on it's TDC timing mark and you've ensured you're on the
> compression stroke, (both valves closed, not in the overlap, one closing
and
> the other opening)you can now place #1 anywhere on the cap you want.
> Older Chrsler v-8's didn't have a gear on the dist shaft, they just
had
> a slot on the end. The gear was actually on a seperate oil drive shaft
that
> you dropped in when the intake was off. Any time you removed the dist you
> just had to align the slot and you were either on or 180 degrees out. You
> could correct it by lifting the dist and turning it half a turn or move
all
> of the wires 180 degrees on the cap. Could that be what you're confusing?
> Steve
> "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message
> news:1085pqvmqhqfqfd@corp.supernews.com...
> > I am not that confused.
> >
> > Theoretically, you are absolutely correct, but in practice, I am more
> > correct. It is certainly POSSIBLE to do what you said, but in all
> > practicality, it never happens that way. As a matter of houskeeping
later
> > on, the distributor must be installed in the right place. There are two
> > places that qualify as the right place, and the second of those requires
> > changing the wires around.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:4080A890.3094FA39@sympatico.ca...
> > > You are confused.....
> > > ;-)
> > >
> > > The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
> > > Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing
when
> > > TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
> > > then you clock the wires from there.
> > >
> > > Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
> > > books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
> > > should be to the front drivers side corner.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > CRWLR wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is
> > driven
> > > > off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position,
but
> it
> > > > only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
> > > >
> > > > "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > > > > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just
so
> I
> > > > > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh
> with
> > > > > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > > > > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with
the
> > > > > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all,
doesn't
> > > > > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can
only
> > > > > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart
> from
> > > > > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > > > > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> > > > >
> > > > > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > > > > :wq!
> >
> >
>
>