followup distributor questions
04-16-2004, 08:34 PM
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>making it.
Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>making it.
Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
04-16-2004, 08:56 PM
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
Are you looking for easy or right? Go back and read my previous post about
setting static timing, follow it step by step and forget all the moving the
dist back and forth trying to get it to run. BTW, what are you doing with a
wire in the cyl? Great way to damage things. Clean up your timing marks on
the balancer and front cover and go by that. If the timing is supposed to
be 4 degrees before top centre, set the damper at 4 degrees BTC. Don't look
at the rotor, look at either the points or the relucter and pick-up.
May seem like more work, but if you learn to do this right you will save a
ton of time overall. When I put an engine back together I set the timing
like this, fill the float bowl if it's a carb, twist her tail and it fires
right off and runs like a kitten. Put the timing light on it and might have
to adjust it a coule of degree.
Oh, another thing, when they talk about degrees of timing, it's not degrees
of distrib movement, it's degrees of crankshaft movement. So when you say
you're moving the distributor a "couple of degrees", don't think that
actually relates to the amount of ign timing change. In fact, it'll be 2
to 1 out, the cam turns at half the speed of the crank.
Steve
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:spu080phq1aujtcpo8182k03rbu0212dum@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
setting static timing, follow it step by step and forget all the moving the
dist back and forth trying to get it to run. BTW, what are you doing with a
wire in the cyl? Great way to damage things. Clean up your timing marks on
the balancer and front cover and go by that. If the timing is supposed to
be 4 degrees before top centre, set the damper at 4 degrees BTC. Don't look
at the rotor, look at either the points or the relucter and pick-up.
May seem like more work, but if you learn to do this right you will save a
ton of time overall. When I put an engine back together I set the timing
like this, fill the float bowl if it's a carb, twist her tail and it fires
right off and runs like a kitten. Put the timing light on it and might have
to adjust it a coule of degree.
Oh, another thing, when they talk about degrees of timing, it's not degrees
of distrib movement, it's degrees of crankshaft movement. So when you say
you're moving the distributor a "couple of degrees", don't think that
actually relates to the amount of ign timing change. In fact, it'll be 2
to 1 out, the cam turns at half the speed of the crank.
Steve
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:spu080phq1aujtcpo8182k03rbu0212dum@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-16-2004, 08:56 PM
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
Are you looking for easy or right? Go back and read my previous post about
setting static timing, follow it step by step and forget all the moving the
dist back and forth trying to get it to run. BTW, what are you doing with a
wire in the cyl? Great way to damage things. Clean up your timing marks on
the balancer and front cover and go by that. If the timing is supposed to
be 4 degrees before top centre, set the damper at 4 degrees BTC. Don't look
at the rotor, look at either the points or the relucter and pick-up.
May seem like more work, but if you learn to do this right you will save a
ton of time overall. When I put an engine back together I set the timing
like this, fill the float bowl if it's a carb, twist her tail and it fires
right off and runs like a kitten. Put the timing light on it and might have
to adjust it a coule of degree.
Oh, another thing, when they talk about degrees of timing, it's not degrees
of distrib movement, it's degrees of crankshaft movement. So when you say
you're moving the distributor a "couple of degrees", don't think that
actually relates to the amount of ign timing change. In fact, it'll be 2
to 1 out, the cam turns at half the speed of the crank.
Steve
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:spu080phq1aujtcpo8182k03rbu0212dum@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
setting static timing, follow it step by step and forget all the moving the
dist back and forth trying to get it to run. BTW, what are you doing with a
wire in the cyl? Great way to damage things. Clean up your timing marks on
the balancer and front cover and go by that. If the timing is supposed to
be 4 degrees before top centre, set the damper at 4 degrees BTC. Don't look
at the rotor, look at either the points or the relucter and pick-up.
May seem like more work, but if you learn to do this right you will save a
ton of time overall. When I put an engine back together I set the timing
like this, fill the float bowl if it's a carb, twist her tail and it fires
right off and runs like a kitten. Put the timing light on it and might have
to adjust it a coule of degree.
Oh, another thing, when they talk about degrees of timing, it's not degrees
of distrib movement, it's degrees of crankshaft movement. So when you say
you're moving the distributor a "couple of degrees", don't think that
actually relates to the amount of ign timing change. In fact, it'll be 2
to 1 out, the cam turns at half the speed of the crank.
Steve
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:spu080phq1aujtcpo8182k03rbu0212dum@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-16-2004, 08:56 PM
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
Are you looking for easy or right? Go back and read my previous post about
setting static timing, follow it step by step and forget all the moving the
dist back and forth trying to get it to run. BTW, what are you doing with a
wire in the cyl? Great way to damage things. Clean up your timing marks on
the balancer and front cover and go by that. If the timing is supposed to
be 4 degrees before top centre, set the damper at 4 degrees BTC. Don't look
at the rotor, look at either the points or the relucter and pick-up.
May seem like more work, but if you learn to do this right you will save a
ton of time overall. When I put an engine back together I set the timing
like this, fill the float bowl if it's a carb, twist her tail and it fires
right off and runs like a kitten. Put the timing light on it and might have
to adjust it a coule of degree.
Oh, another thing, when they talk about degrees of timing, it's not degrees
of distrib movement, it's degrees of crankshaft movement. So when you say
you're moving the distributor a "couple of degrees", don't think that
actually relates to the amount of ign timing change. In fact, it'll be 2
to 1 out, the cam turns at half the speed of the crank.
Steve
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:spu080phq1aujtcpo8182k03rbu0212dum@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
setting static timing, follow it step by step and forget all the moving the
dist back and forth trying to get it to run. BTW, what are you doing with a
wire in the cyl? Great way to damage things. Clean up your timing marks on
the balancer and front cover and go by that. If the timing is supposed to
be 4 degrees before top centre, set the damper at 4 degrees BTC. Don't look
at the rotor, look at either the points or the relucter and pick-up.
May seem like more work, but if you learn to do this right you will save a
ton of time overall. When I put an engine back together I set the timing
like this, fill the float bowl if it's a carb, twist her tail and it fires
right off and runs like a kitten. Put the timing light on it and might have
to adjust it a coule of degree.
Oh, another thing, when they talk about degrees of timing, it's not degrees
of distrib movement, it's degrees of crankshaft movement. So when you say
you're moving the distributor a "couple of degrees", don't think that
actually relates to the amount of ign timing change. In fact, it'll be 2
to 1 out, the cam turns at half the speed of the crank.
Steve
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:spu080phq1aujtcpo8182k03rbu0212dum@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-16-2004, 08:56 PM
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
Are you looking for easy or right? Go back and read my previous post about
setting static timing, follow it step by step and forget all the moving the
dist back and forth trying to get it to run. BTW, what are you doing with a
wire in the cyl? Great way to damage things. Clean up your timing marks on
the balancer and front cover and go by that. If the timing is supposed to
be 4 degrees before top centre, set the damper at 4 degrees BTC. Don't look
at the rotor, look at either the points or the relucter and pick-up.
May seem like more work, but if you learn to do this right you will save a
ton of time overall. When I put an engine back together I set the timing
like this, fill the float bowl if it's a carb, twist her tail and it fires
right off and runs like a kitten. Put the timing light on it and might have
to adjust it a coule of degree.
Oh, another thing, when they talk about degrees of timing, it's not degrees
of distrib movement, it's degrees of crankshaft movement. So when you say
you're moving the distributor a "couple of degrees", don't think that
actually relates to the amount of ign timing change. In fact, it'll be 2
to 1 out, the cam turns at half the speed of the crank.
Steve
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:spu080phq1aujtcpo8182k03rbu0212dum@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
setting static timing, follow it step by step and forget all the moving the
dist back and forth trying to get it to run. BTW, what are you doing with a
wire in the cyl? Great way to damage things. Clean up your timing marks on
the balancer and front cover and go by that. If the timing is supposed to
be 4 degrees before top centre, set the damper at 4 degrees BTC. Don't look
at the rotor, look at either the points or the relucter and pick-up.
May seem like more work, but if you learn to do this right you will save a
ton of time overall. When I put an engine back together I set the timing
like this, fill the float bowl if it's a carb, twist her tail and it fires
right off and runs like a kitten. Put the timing light on it and might have
to adjust it a coule of degree.
Oh, another thing, when they talk about degrees of timing, it's not degrees
of distrib movement, it's degrees of crankshaft movement. So when you say
you're moving the distributor a "couple of degrees", don't think that
actually relates to the amount of ign timing change. In fact, it'll be 2
to 1 out, the cam turns at half the speed of the crank.
Steve
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:spu080phq1aujtcpo8182k03rbu0212dum@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> <----------@***.net> wrote:
>
> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >making it.
>
> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>
> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-16-2004, 11:42 PM
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
CRWLR wrote:
>
> You need to
> > have the plug out to ensure you are on the compression stroke.
>
> Is it enought to have the plug out?
>
> The piston is at the top each time the timing mark is on TDC, once it is at
> the top of the exhaust stroke and once at the top of the compression stroke.
> I thought the valve cover would need to be off to tell which stroke was at
> the top.
Naw, you just stick your finger in the #1 hole as you turn it to the
timing mark. The compression stroke is very obvious.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> You need to
> > have the plug out to ensure you are on the compression stroke.
>
> Is it enought to have the plug out?
>
> The piston is at the top each time the timing mark is on TDC, once it is at
> the top of the exhaust stroke and once at the top of the compression stroke.
> I thought the valve cover would need to be off to tell which stroke was at
> the top.
Naw, you just stick your finger in the #1 hole as you turn it to the
timing mark. The compression stroke is very obvious.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-16-2004, 11:42 PM
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
CRWLR wrote:
>
> You need to
> > have the plug out to ensure you are on the compression stroke.
>
> Is it enought to have the plug out?
>
> The piston is at the top each time the timing mark is on TDC, once it is at
> the top of the exhaust stroke and once at the top of the compression stroke.
> I thought the valve cover would need to be off to tell which stroke was at
> the top.
Naw, you just stick your finger in the #1 hole as you turn it to the
timing mark. The compression stroke is very obvious.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> You need to
> > have the plug out to ensure you are on the compression stroke.
>
> Is it enought to have the plug out?
>
> The piston is at the top each time the timing mark is on TDC, once it is at
> the top of the exhaust stroke and once at the top of the compression stroke.
> I thought the valve cover would need to be off to tell which stroke was at
> the top.
Naw, you just stick your finger in the #1 hole as you turn it to the
timing mark. The compression stroke is very obvious.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-16-2004, 11:42 PM
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
CRWLR wrote:
>
> You need to
> > have the plug out to ensure you are on the compression stroke.
>
> Is it enought to have the plug out?
>
> The piston is at the top each time the timing mark is on TDC, once it is at
> the top of the exhaust stroke and once at the top of the compression stroke.
> I thought the valve cover would need to be off to tell which stroke was at
> the top.
Naw, you just stick your finger in the #1 hole as you turn it to the
timing mark. The compression stroke is very obvious.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> You need to
> > have the plug out to ensure you are on the compression stroke.
>
> Is it enought to have the plug out?
>
> The piston is at the top each time the timing mark is on TDC, once it is at
> the top of the exhaust stroke and once at the top of the compression stroke.
> I thought the valve cover would need to be off to tell which stroke was at
> the top.
Naw, you just stick your finger in the #1 hole as you turn it to the
timing mark. The compression stroke is very obvious.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-16-2004, 11:42 PM
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
CRWLR wrote:
>
> You need to
> > have the plug out to ensure you are on the compression stroke.
>
> Is it enought to have the plug out?
>
> The piston is at the top each time the timing mark is on TDC, once it is at
> the top of the exhaust stroke and once at the top of the compression stroke.
> I thought the valve cover would need to be off to tell which stroke was at
> the top.
Naw, you just stick your finger in the #1 hole as you turn it to the
timing mark. The compression stroke is very obvious.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> You need to
> > have the plug out to ensure you are on the compression stroke.
>
> Is it enought to have the plug out?
>
> The piston is at the top each time the timing mark is on TDC, once it is at
> the top of the exhaust stroke and once at the top of the compression stroke.
> I thought the valve cover would need to be off to tell which stroke was at
> the top.
Naw, you just stick your finger in the #1 hole as you turn it to the
timing mark. The compression stroke is very obvious.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-16-2004, 11:46 PM
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: followup distributor questions
You are confused.....
;-)
The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
then you clock the wires from there.
Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
should be to the front drivers side corner.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CRWLR wrote:
>
> The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>
> "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >
> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > :wq!
;-)
The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on
Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when
TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap,
then you clock the wires from there.
Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the
books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor
should be to the front drivers side corner.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CRWLR wrote:
>
> The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven
> off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it
> only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.
>
> "Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:bgmr705e0p390o6cg9d56i87s4n65m8nlj@4ax.com...
> > OK, so I can choose which terminal is #1 on my distributor. Just so I
> > understand things, doesn't the gear on the distributor shaft mesh with
> > a gear on the camshaft? And doesn't the
> > flat-bladed-screwdriver-looking end on the distributor mesh with the
> > oil pump? If that flat-end does mesh with anything at all, doesn't
> > that mean that for any given rotation of the engine that I can only
> > install the distributor in one of two positons, 180 degrees apart from
> > each other? Don't hate me because I'm beautiful!!! Uh... I mean
> > don't hate me because I have lots of questions!!! :-)
> >
> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > :wq!