Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
06-23-2007, 06:33 PM
#131
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007, Jeff Strickland wrote:
> <fchristeson@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1182615648.637537.246790@q75g2000hsh.googlegr oups.com...
>> On Jun 22, 10:31 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <c...@verizon.net> wrote:
>>> The cheapest way is to do it yourself, the easiest way is to have somebody
>>> else do it for you.
>>
>> That depends on how much you tear up when you do it yourself. :)
>>
>
> That's certainly true. It might be both cheaper and easier to pay somebody
> else to do it.
What was that garage sign?
Repairs - $50 per hour.
If you tried to fix it yourself first - $75 per hour.
--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
> <fchristeson@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1182615648.637537.246790@q75g2000hsh.googlegr oups.com...
>> On Jun 22, 10:31 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <c...@verizon.net> wrote:
>>> The cheapest way is to do it yourself, the easiest way is to have somebody
>>> else do it for you.
>>
>> That depends on how much you tear up when you do it yourself. :)
>>
>
> That's certainly true. It might be both cheaper and easier to pay somebody
> else to do it.
What was that garage sign?
Repairs - $50 per hour.
If you tried to fix it yourself first - $75 per hour.
--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
06-23-2007, 06:33 PM
#132
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007, Jeff Strickland wrote:
> <fchristeson@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1182615648.637537.246790@q75g2000hsh.googlegr oups.com...
>> On Jun 22, 10:31 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <c...@verizon.net> wrote:
>>> The cheapest way is to do it yourself, the easiest way is to have somebody
>>> else do it for you.
>>
>> That depends on how much you tear up when you do it yourself. :)
>>
>
> That's certainly true. It might be both cheaper and easier to pay somebody
> else to do it.
What was that garage sign?
Repairs - $50 per hour.
If you tried to fix it yourself first - $75 per hour.
--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
> <fchristeson@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1182615648.637537.246790@q75g2000hsh.googlegr oups.com...
>> On Jun 22, 10:31 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <c...@verizon.net> wrote:
>>> The cheapest way is to do it yourself, the easiest way is to have somebody
>>> else do it for you.
>>
>> That depends on how much you tear up when you do it yourself. :)
>>
>
> That's certainly true. It might be both cheaper and easier to pay somebody
> else to do it.
What was that garage sign?
Repairs - $50 per hour.
If you tried to fix it yourself first - $75 per hour.
--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
06-23-2007, 06:33 PM
#133
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007, Jeff Strickland wrote:
> <fchristeson@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1182615648.637537.246790@q75g2000hsh.googlegr oups.com...
>> On Jun 22, 10:31 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <c...@verizon.net> wrote:
>>> The cheapest way is to do it yourself, the easiest way is to have somebody
>>> else do it for you.
>>
>> That depends on how much you tear up when you do it yourself. :)
>>
>
> That's certainly true. It might be both cheaper and easier to pay somebody
> else to do it.
What was that garage sign?
Repairs - $50 per hour.
If you tried to fix it yourself first - $75 per hour.
--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
> <fchristeson@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1182615648.637537.246790@q75g2000hsh.googlegr oups.com...
>> On Jun 22, 10:31 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <c...@verizon.net> wrote:
>>> The cheapest way is to do it yourself, the easiest way is to have somebody
>>> else do it for you.
>>
>> That depends on how much you tear up when you do it yourself. :)
>>
>
> That's certainly true. It might be both cheaper and easier to pay somebody
> else to do it.
What was that garage sign?
Repairs - $50 per hour.
If you tried to fix it yourself first - $75 per hour.
--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
06-23-2007, 09:23 PM
#134
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
The axle housing and the "pumpkin" don't need to be changed. The new gears
will fit inside.
What you need to regear is:
* Ring/pinion sets (front and back). A ratio from 4.11 to 4.56 should be ok.
4.11 would be a bit tall, 4.56 a bit low. Both ratios will make a huge
difference compared to 3.07.
* New bearing sets for pinion and differential carrier (check with your
mechanic, he may supply those himself).
* New diferential carriers (the "heart" of the differential, on which the
ring gear bolts to)
As I understand, you now have a limited slip differential in the rear. This
is integrated on the differential carrier.
If you don't like the limited slip in the back, you can buy "open"
differential carriers (the most common type) which are also cheaper than the
limited slip carrier. This way you eliminate the limited slip. If you buy
the differential carriers new, check that they are complete, with the spider
gears and side gears.
Take the parts to a good mechanic and have him install them.
Any other option that requires axle replacement with different type of axle
(D44 or 8.8 or other) will require at least a new rear driveshaft, and
modificatioons (relocate or install mounting points for the coil springs,
minor modifications for the brakes, ABS etc). Although stronger, since you
don't do any hard-core wheeling with the Jeep, they are a waste of money.
Bill Spiliotopoulos,
96 XJ,
06 TJ.
? <fchristeson@gmail.com> ?????? ??? ??????
news:1182619325.497930.22200@q75g2000hsh.googlegro ups.com...
> Greg,
>
> I don't know enough about differentials or axles or carriers to
> really know what my options are but if I understand what I have read
> so far, the problem with my rear axle is that the case ( 3rd
> member ? ) is physically to small to hold the larger gears ? If going
> with 4.11's can be as simple as eliminating the carrier then I'm
> interested in almost anything other than perm posi in the rear. The
> wheelbase is so short the *** likes to pass the nose already, with
> rear posi on wet / slick roads I would have to teach the wife to drive
> it backwards every time it rained or snowed.
>
> Does anyone know if this is an option on the Dana 30/35 ? Would using
> a locker of some type to eleimate the carrier allow me to put put
> 4.11's in my 3rd member ? Is the carrier the problem or are the gears
> actually to big for the 3rd member ?
>
> I think what I really need to do is keep my eyes open for a wrecked
> Rubi or TJ with the Dana 44's and just buy the whole rig.
> I've only found the 3.73 assemblies at the salvage yards so far and
> they want $900+ for them... crazy.
>
> Farrell Christeson
>
> On Jun 22, 9:01 pm, "Greg" <gregl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> When I changed gears in my CJ I had to go to a new carrier, think it
>> cost
>> me 90 buck Canadain, new, not even worth ebaying now that I've gone to a
>> detroit, ( replaces carrier ) here's a site that list CJ or YJ carier at
>> $49.00http://www.rocky-road.com/jeepdrive.htmlIf you can find a machanic
>> that works after hours, a gear change is not that much, for example
>> although
>> not a gear change, same has to be done to install a full locker, my
>> daughter's 9" was $50.00 to install a detroit, she took third member to
>> him,
>> her front lock right was $100.00, the detroit in my AMC 20 was $175.00
>> because I needed new bearings, my Ox locker in front was $200.00, (
>> different machanic that time )
>
will fit inside.
What you need to regear is:
* Ring/pinion sets (front and back). A ratio from 4.11 to 4.56 should be ok.
4.11 would be a bit tall, 4.56 a bit low. Both ratios will make a huge
difference compared to 3.07.
* New bearing sets for pinion and differential carrier (check with your
mechanic, he may supply those himself).
* New diferential carriers (the "heart" of the differential, on which the
ring gear bolts to)
As I understand, you now have a limited slip differential in the rear. This
is integrated on the differential carrier.
If you don't like the limited slip in the back, you can buy "open"
differential carriers (the most common type) which are also cheaper than the
limited slip carrier. This way you eliminate the limited slip. If you buy
the differential carriers new, check that they are complete, with the spider
gears and side gears.
Take the parts to a good mechanic and have him install them.
Any other option that requires axle replacement with different type of axle
(D44 or 8.8 or other) will require at least a new rear driveshaft, and
modificatioons (relocate or install mounting points for the coil springs,
minor modifications for the brakes, ABS etc). Although stronger, since you
don't do any hard-core wheeling with the Jeep, they are a waste of money.
Bill Spiliotopoulos,
96 XJ,
06 TJ.
? <fchristeson@gmail.com> ?????? ??? ??????
news:1182619325.497930.22200@q75g2000hsh.googlegro ups.com...
> Greg,
>
> I don't know enough about differentials or axles or carriers to
> really know what my options are but if I understand what I have read
> so far, the problem with my rear axle is that the case ( 3rd
> member ? ) is physically to small to hold the larger gears ? If going
> with 4.11's can be as simple as eliminating the carrier then I'm
> interested in almost anything other than perm posi in the rear. The
> wheelbase is so short the *** likes to pass the nose already, with
> rear posi on wet / slick roads I would have to teach the wife to drive
> it backwards every time it rained or snowed.
>
> Does anyone know if this is an option on the Dana 30/35 ? Would using
> a locker of some type to eleimate the carrier allow me to put put
> 4.11's in my 3rd member ? Is the carrier the problem or are the gears
> actually to big for the 3rd member ?
>
> I think what I really need to do is keep my eyes open for a wrecked
> Rubi or TJ with the Dana 44's and just buy the whole rig.
> I've only found the 3.73 assemblies at the salvage yards so far and
> they want $900+ for them... crazy.
>
> Farrell Christeson
>
> On Jun 22, 9:01 pm, "Greg" <gregl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> When I changed gears in my CJ I had to go to a new carrier, think it
>> cost
>> me 90 buck Canadain, new, not even worth ebaying now that I've gone to a
>> detroit, ( replaces carrier ) here's a site that list CJ or YJ carier at
>> $49.00http://www.rocky-road.com/jeepdrive.htmlIf you can find a machanic
>> that works after hours, a gear change is not that much, for example
>> although
>> not a gear change, same has to be done to install a full locker, my
>> daughter's 9" was $50.00 to install a detroit, she took third member to
>> him,
>> her front lock right was $100.00, the detroit in my AMC 20 was $175.00
>> because I needed new bearings, my Ox locker in front was $200.00, (
>> different machanic that time )
>
06-23-2007, 09:23 PM
#135
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
The axle housing and the "pumpkin" don't need to be changed. The new gears
will fit inside.
What you need to regear is:
* Ring/pinion sets (front and back). A ratio from 4.11 to 4.56 should be ok.
4.11 would be a bit tall, 4.56 a bit low. Both ratios will make a huge
difference compared to 3.07.
* New bearing sets for pinion and differential carrier (check with your
mechanic, he may supply those himself).
* New diferential carriers (the "heart" of the differential, on which the
ring gear bolts to)
As I understand, you now have a limited slip differential in the rear. This
is integrated on the differential carrier.
If you don't like the limited slip in the back, you can buy "open"
differential carriers (the most common type) which are also cheaper than the
limited slip carrier. This way you eliminate the limited slip. If you buy
the differential carriers new, check that they are complete, with the spider
gears and side gears.
Take the parts to a good mechanic and have him install them.
Any other option that requires axle replacement with different type of axle
(D44 or 8.8 or other) will require at least a new rear driveshaft, and
modificatioons (relocate or install mounting points for the coil springs,
minor modifications for the brakes, ABS etc). Although stronger, since you
don't do any hard-core wheeling with the Jeep, they are a waste of money.
Bill Spiliotopoulos,
96 XJ,
06 TJ.
? <fchristeson@gmail.com> ?????? ??? ??????
news:1182619325.497930.22200@q75g2000hsh.googlegro ups.com...
> Greg,
>
> I don't know enough about differentials or axles or carriers to
> really know what my options are but if I understand what I have read
> so far, the problem with my rear axle is that the case ( 3rd
> member ? ) is physically to small to hold the larger gears ? If going
> with 4.11's can be as simple as eliminating the carrier then I'm
> interested in almost anything other than perm posi in the rear. The
> wheelbase is so short the *** likes to pass the nose already, with
> rear posi on wet / slick roads I would have to teach the wife to drive
> it backwards every time it rained or snowed.
>
> Does anyone know if this is an option on the Dana 30/35 ? Would using
> a locker of some type to eleimate the carrier allow me to put put
> 4.11's in my 3rd member ? Is the carrier the problem or are the gears
> actually to big for the 3rd member ?
>
> I think what I really need to do is keep my eyes open for a wrecked
> Rubi or TJ with the Dana 44's and just buy the whole rig.
> I've only found the 3.73 assemblies at the salvage yards so far and
> they want $900+ for them... crazy.
>
> Farrell Christeson
>
> On Jun 22, 9:01 pm, "Greg" <gregl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> When I changed gears in my CJ I had to go to a new carrier, think it
>> cost
>> me 90 buck Canadain, new, not even worth ebaying now that I've gone to a
>> detroit, ( replaces carrier ) here's a site that list CJ or YJ carier at
>> $49.00http://www.rocky-road.com/jeepdrive.htmlIf you can find a machanic
>> that works after hours, a gear change is not that much, for example
>> although
>> not a gear change, same has to be done to install a full locker, my
>> daughter's 9" was $50.00 to install a detroit, she took third member to
>> him,
>> her front lock right was $100.00, the detroit in my AMC 20 was $175.00
>> because I needed new bearings, my Ox locker in front was $200.00, (
>> different machanic that time )
>
will fit inside.
What you need to regear is:
* Ring/pinion sets (front and back). A ratio from 4.11 to 4.56 should be ok.
4.11 would be a bit tall, 4.56 a bit low. Both ratios will make a huge
difference compared to 3.07.
* New bearing sets for pinion and differential carrier (check with your
mechanic, he may supply those himself).
* New diferential carriers (the "heart" of the differential, on which the
ring gear bolts to)
As I understand, you now have a limited slip differential in the rear. This
is integrated on the differential carrier.
If you don't like the limited slip in the back, you can buy "open"
differential carriers (the most common type) which are also cheaper than the
limited slip carrier. This way you eliminate the limited slip. If you buy
the differential carriers new, check that they are complete, with the spider
gears and side gears.
Take the parts to a good mechanic and have him install them.
Any other option that requires axle replacement with different type of axle
(D44 or 8.8 or other) will require at least a new rear driveshaft, and
modificatioons (relocate or install mounting points for the coil springs,
minor modifications for the brakes, ABS etc). Although stronger, since you
don't do any hard-core wheeling with the Jeep, they are a waste of money.
Bill Spiliotopoulos,
96 XJ,
06 TJ.
? <fchristeson@gmail.com> ?????? ??? ??????
news:1182619325.497930.22200@q75g2000hsh.googlegro ups.com...
> Greg,
>
> I don't know enough about differentials or axles or carriers to
> really know what my options are but if I understand what I have read
> so far, the problem with my rear axle is that the case ( 3rd
> member ? ) is physically to small to hold the larger gears ? If going
> with 4.11's can be as simple as eliminating the carrier then I'm
> interested in almost anything other than perm posi in the rear. The
> wheelbase is so short the *** likes to pass the nose already, with
> rear posi on wet / slick roads I would have to teach the wife to drive
> it backwards every time it rained or snowed.
>
> Does anyone know if this is an option on the Dana 30/35 ? Would using
> a locker of some type to eleimate the carrier allow me to put put
> 4.11's in my 3rd member ? Is the carrier the problem or are the gears
> actually to big for the 3rd member ?
>
> I think what I really need to do is keep my eyes open for a wrecked
> Rubi or TJ with the Dana 44's and just buy the whole rig.
> I've only found the 3.73 assemblies at the salvage yards so far and
> they want $900+ for them... crazy.
>
> Farrell Christeson
>
> On Jun 22, 9:01 pm, "Greg" <gregl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> When I changed gears in my CJ I had to go to a new carrier, think it
>> cost
>> me 90 buck Canadain, new, not even worth ebaying now that I've gone to a
>> detroit, ( replaces carrier ) here's a site that list CJ or YJ carier at
>> $49.00http://www.rocky-road.com/jeepdrive.htmlIf you can find a machanic
>> that works after hours, a gear change is not that much, for example
>> although
>> not a gear change, same has to be done to install a full locker, my
>> daughter's 9" was $50.00 to install a detroit, she took third member to
>> him,
>> her front lock right was $100.00, the detroit in my AMC 20 was $175.00
>> because I needed new bearings, my Ox locker in front was $200.00, (
>> different machanic that time )
>
06-23-2007, 09:23 PM
#136
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
The axle housing and the "pumpkin" don't need to be changed. The new gears
will fit inside.
What you need to regear is:
* Ring/pinion sets (front and back). A ratio from 4.11 to 4.56 should be ok.
4.11 would be a bit tall, 4.56 a bit low. Both ratios will make a huge
difference compared to 3.07.
* New bearing sets for pinion and differential carrier (check with your
mechanic, he may supply those himself).
* New diferential carriers (the "heart" of the differential, on which the
ring gear bolts to)
As I understand, you now have a limited slip differential in the rear. This
is integrated on the differential carrier.
If you don't like the limited slip in the back, you can buy "open"
differential carriers (the most common type) which are also cheaper than the
limited slip carrier. This way you eliminate the limited slip. If you buy
the differential carriers new, check that they are complete, with the spider
gears and side gears.
Take the parts to a good mechanic and have him install them.
Any other option that requires axle replacement with different type of axle
(D44 or 8.8 or other) will require at least a new rear driveshaft, and
modificatioons (relocate or install mounting points for the coil springs,
minor modifications for the brakes, ABS etc). Although stronger, since you
don't do any hard-core wheeling with the Jeep, they are a waste of money.
Bill Spiliotopoulos,
96 XJ,
06 TJ.
? <fchristeson@gmail.com> ?????? ??? ??????
news:1182619325.497930.22200@q75g2000hsh.googlegro ups.com...
> Greg,
>
> I don't know enough about differentials or axles or carriers to
> really know what my options are but if I understand what I have read
> so far, the problem with my rear axle is that the case ( 3rd
> member ? ) is physically to small to hold the larger gears ? If going
> with 4.11's can be as simple as eliminating the carrier then I'm
> interested in almost anything other than perm posi in the rear. The
> wheelbase is so short the *** likes to pass the nose already, with
> rear posi on wet / slick roads I would have to teach the wife to drive
> it backwards every time it rained or snowed.
>
> Does anyone know if this is an option on the Dana 30/35 ? Would using
> a locker of some type to eleimate the carrier allow me to put put
> 4.11's in my 3rd member ? Is the carrier the problem or are the gears
> actually to big for the 3rd member ?
>
> I think what I really need to do is keep my eyes open for a wrecked
> Rubi or TJ with the Dana 44's and just buy the whole rig.
> I've only found the 3.73 assemblies at the salvage yards so far and
> they want $900+ for them... crazy.
>
> Farrell Christeson
>
> On Jun 22, 9:01 pm, "Greg" <gregl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> When I changed gears in my CJ I had to go to a new carrier, think it
>> cost
>> me 90 buck Canadain, new, not even worth ebaying now that I've gone to a
>> detroit, ( replaces carrier ) here's a site that list CJ or YJ carier at
>> $49.00http://www.rocky-road.com/jeepdrive.htmlIf you can find a machanic
>> that works after hours, a gear change is not that much, for example
>> although
>> not a gear change, same has to be done to install a full locker, my
>> daughter's 9" was $50.00 to install a detroit, she took third member to
>> him,
>> her front lock right was $100.00, the detroit in my AMC 20 was $175.00
>> because I needed new bearings, my Ox locker in front was $200.00, (
>> different machanic that time )
>
will fit inside.
What you need to regear is:
* Ring/pinion sets (front and back). A ratio from 4.11 to 4.56 should be ok.
4.11 would be a bit tall, 4.56 a bit low. Both ratios will make a huge
difference compared to 3.07.
* New bearing sets for pinion and differential carrier (check with your
mechanic, he may supply those himself).
* New diferential carriers (the "heart" of the differential, on which the
ring gear bolts to)
As I understand, you now have a limited slip differential in the rear. This
is integrated on the differential carrier.
If you don't like the limited slip in the back, you can buy "open"
differential carriers (the most common type) which are also cheaper than the
limited slip carrier. This way you eliminate the limited slip. If you buy
the differential carriers new, check that they are complete, with the spider
gears and side gears.
Take the parts to a good mechanic and have him install them.
Any other option that requires axle replacement with different type of axle
(D44 or 8.8 or other) will require at least a new rear driveshaft, and
modificatioons (relocate or install mounting points for the coil springs,
minor modifications for the brakes, ABS etc). Although stronger, since you
don't do any hard-core wheeling with the Jeep, they are a waste of money.
Bill Spiliotopoulos,
96 XJ,
06 TJ.
? <fchristeson@gmail.com> ?????? ??? ??????
news:1182619325.497930.22200@q75g2000hsh.googlegro ups.com...
> Greg,
>
> I don't know enough about differentials or axles or carriers to
> really know what my options are but if I understand what I have read
> so far, the problem with my rear axle is that the case ( 3rd
> member ? ) is physically to small to hold the larger gears ? If going
> with 4.11's can be as simple as eliminating the carrier then I'm
> interested in almost anything other than perm posi in the rear. The
> wheelbase is so short the *** likes to pass the nose already, with
> rear posi on wet / slick roads I would have to teach the wife to drive
> it backwards every time it rained or snowed.
>
> Does anyone know if this is an option on the Dana 30/35 ? Would using
> a locker of some type to eleimate the carrier allow me to put put
> 4.11's in my 3rd member ? Is the carrier the problem or are the gears
> actually to big for the 3rd member ?
>
> I think what I really need to do is keep my eyes open for a wrecked
> Rubi or TJ with the Dana 44's and just buy the whole rig.
> I've only found the 3.73 assemblies at the salvage yards so far and
> they want $900+ for them... crazy.
>
> Farrell Christeson
>
> On Jun 22, 9:01 pm, "Greg" <gregl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> When I changed gears in my CJ I had to go to a new carrier, think it
>> cost
>> me 90 buck Canadain, new, not even worth ebaying now that I've gone to a
>> detroit, ( replaces carrier ) here's a site that list CJ or YJ carier at
>> $49.00http://www.rocky-road.com/jeepdrive.htmlIf you can find a machanic
>> that works after hours, a gear change is not that much, for example
>> although
>> not a gear change, same has to be done to install a full locker, my
>> daughter's 9" was $50.00 to install a detroit, she took third member to
>> him,
>> her front lock right was $100.00, the detroit in my AMC 20 was $175.00
>> because I needed new bearings, my Ox locker in front was $200.00, (
>> different machanic that time )
>
06-23-2007, 09:23 PM
#137
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
The axle housing and the "pumpkin" don't need to be changed. The new gears
will fit inside.
What you need to regear is:
* Ring/pinion sets (front and back). A ratio from 4.11 to 4.56 should be ok.
4.11 would be a bit tall, 4.56 a bit low. Both ratios will make a huge
difference compared to 3.07.
* New bearing sets for pinion and differential carrier (check with your
mechanic, he may supply those himself).
* New diferential carriers (the "heart" of the differential, on which the
ring gear bolts to)
As I understand, you now have a limited slip differential in the rear. This
is integrated on the differential carrier.
If you don't like the limited slip in the back, you can buy "open"
differential carriers (the most common type) which are also cheaper than the
limited slip carrier. This way you eliminate the limited slip. If you buy
the differential carriers new, check that they are complete, with the spider
gears and side gears.
Take the parts to a good mechanic and have him install them.
Any other option that requires axle replacement with different type of axle
(D44 or 8.8 or other) will require at least a new rear driveshaft, and
modificatioons (relocate or install mounting points for the coil springs,
minor modifications for the brakes, ABS etc). Although stronger, since you
don't do any hard-core wheeling with the Jeep, they are a waste of money.
Bill Spiliotopoulos,
96 XJ,
06 TJ.
? <fchristeson@gmail.com> ?????? ??? ??????
news:1182619325.497930.22200@q75g2000hsh.googlegro ups.com...
> Greg,
>
> I don't know enough about differentials or axles or carriers to
> really know what my options are but if I understand what I have read
> so far, the problem with my rear axle is that the case ( 3rd
> member ? ) is physically to small to hold the larger gears ? If going
> with 4.11's can be as simple as eliminating the carrier then I'm
> interested in almost anything other than perm posi in the rear. The
> wheelbase is so short the *** likes to pass the nose already, with
> rear posi on wet / slick roads I would have to teach the wife to drive
> it backwards every time it rained or snowed.
>
> Does anyone know if this is an option on the Dana 30/35 ? Would using
> a locker of some type to eleimate the carrier allow me to put put
> 4.11's in my 3rd member ? Is the carrier the problem or are the gears
> actually to big for the 3rd member ?
>
> I think what I really need to do is keep my eyes open for a wrecked
> Rubi or TJ with the Dana 44's and just buy the whole rig.
> I've only found the 3.73 assemblies at the salvage yards so far and
> they want $900+ for them... crazy.
>
> Farrell Christeson
>
> On Jun 22, 9:01 pm, "Greg" <gregl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> When I changed gears in my CJ I had to go to a new carrier, think it
>> cost
>> me 90 buck Canadain, new, not even worth ebaying now that I've gone to a
>> detroit, ( replaces carrier ) here's a site that list CJ or YJ carier at
>> $49.00http://www.rocky-road.com/jeepdrive.htmlIf you can find a machanic
>> that works after hours, a gear change is not that much, for example
>> although
>> not a gear change, same has to be done to install a full locker, my
>> daughter's 9" was $50.00 to install a detroit, she took third member to
>> him,
>> her front lock right was $100.00, the detroit in my AMC 20 was $175.00
>> because I needed new bearings, my Ox locker in front was $200.00, (
>> different machanic that time )
>
will fit inside.
What you need to regear is:
* Ring/pinion sets (front and back). A ratio from 4.11 to 4.56 should be ok.
4.11 would be a bit tall, 4.56 a bit low. Both ratios will make a huge
difference compared to 3.07.
* New bearing sets for pinion and differential carrier (check with your
mechanic, he may supply those himself).
* New diferential carriers (the "heart" of the differential, on which the
ring gear bolts to)
As I understand, you now have a limited slip differential in the rear. This
is integrated on the differential carrier.
If you don't like the limited slip in the back, you can buy "open"
differential carriers (the most common type) which are also cheaper than the
limited slip carrier. This way you eliminate the limited slip. If you buy
the differential carriers new, check that they are complete, with the spider
gears and side gears.
Take the parts to a good mechanic and have him install them.
Any other option that requires axle replacement with different type of axle
(D44 or 8.8 or other) will require at least a new rear driveshaft, and
modificatioons (relocate or install mounting points for the coil springs,
minor modifications for the brakes, ABS etc). Although stronger, since you
don't do any hard-core wheeling with the Jeep, they are a waste of money.
Bill Spiliotopoulos,
96 XJ,
06 TJ.
? <fchristeson@gmail.com> ?????? ??? ??????
news:1182619325.497930.22200@q75g2000hsh.googlegro ups.com...
> Greg,
>
> I don't know enough about differentials or axles or carriers to
> really know what my options are but if I understand what I have read
> so far, the problem with my rear axle is that the case ( 3rd
> member ? ) is physically to small to hold the larger gears ? If going
> with 4.11's can be as simple as eliminating the carrier then I'm
> interested in almost anything other than perm posi in the rear. The
> wheelbase is so short the *** likes to pass the nose already, with
> rear posi on wet / slick roads I would have to teach the wife to drive
> it backwards every time it rained or snowed.
>
> Does anyone know if this is an option on the Dana 30/35 ? Would using
> a locker of some type to eleimate the carrier allow me to put put
> 4.11's in my 3rd member ? Is the carrier the problem or are the gears
> actually to big for the 3rd member ?
>
> I think what I really need to do is keep my eyes open for a wrecked
> Rubi or TJ with the Dana 44's and just buy the whole rig.
> I've only found the 3.73 assemblies at the salvage yards so far and
> they want $900+ for them... crazy.
>
> Farrell Christeson
>
> On Jun 22, 9:01 pm, "Greg" <gregl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> When I changed gears in my CJ I had to go to a new carrier, think it
>> cost
>> me 90 buck Canadain, new, not even worth ebaying now that I've gone to a
>> detroit, ( replaces carrier ) here's a site that list CJ or YJ carier at
>> $49.00http://www.rocky-road.com/jeepdrive.htmlIf you can find a machanic
>> that works after hours, a gear change is not that much, for example
>> although
>> not a gear change, same has to be done to install a full locker, my
>> daughter's 9" was $50.00 to install a detroit, she took third member to
>> him,
>> her front lock right was $100.00, the detroit in my AMC 20 was $175.00
>> because I needed new bearings, my Ox locker in front was $200.00, (
>> different machanic that time )
>
06-23-2007, 09:25 PM
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Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
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Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
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