Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Troy,
You don't need to worry about your 250 lb torque wrench. Torque wrench is
there for measuring the torque you're applying. You don't need to worry
about how torque you're applying, you need to just reef on it until the
sleeve crushes. If you're worried about damaging your torque wrench, use a
straight bar. The torque wrench you need to worry about is the inch lb one
that will measure the torque required to turn the pinion with the sleeve
crushed. It sounds like you have all of the equipment necessary. There is
a link in one of my posts to a Richmond Gear .pdf that has pretty detailed
instructions. Sounds like all you need is the confidence. Go slowly,
check your play on the pinion frequently and you'll be fine.
Steve G.
PS, in spite of what Bill has said, if you are not changing R & P just
re-use all of the original shims in their original places and you will have
pinion depth and backlash back to factory placement. If the gear set is
worn you may need to re-shim the carrier to take up some excessive backlash,
but assemble it first with the original shims, check the backlash and then
make adjustment if necessary. If the gear set is worn enough to create the
excessive backlash it will probably still be noisey, but re-adjusting
backlash may take some of it out.
Steve G.
"TroyM" <NOleica3fSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:40FFC890.EA14B3F6@earthlink.net...
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
is
> > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
be
> > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
In
> > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
sleeve
> > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
inch-lb
> > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
Go
> > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
one,
> > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
damage?
> > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
backlash.
> > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
have
> > now.
> > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
live
> > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > Steve g.
> > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > highway speeds.
> > >
> > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > >
> > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > >
> > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > >
> > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > >
> > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > >
> > > Troy
You don't need to worry about your 250 lb torque wrench. Torque wrench is
there for measuring the torque you're applying. You don't need to worry
about how torque you're applying, you need to just reef on it until the
sleeve crushes. If you're worried about damaging your torque wrench, use a
straight bar. The torque wrench you need to worry about is the inch lb one
that will measure the torque required to turn the pinion with the sleeve
crushed. It sounds like you have all of the equipment necessary. There is
a link in one of my posts to a Richmond Gear .pdf that has pretty detailed
instructions. Sounds like all you need is the confidence. Go slowly,
check your play on the pinion frequently and you'll be fine.
Steve G.
PS, in spite of what Bill has said, if you are not changing R & P just
re-use all of the original shims in their original places and you will have
pinion depth and backlash back to factory placement. If the gear set is
worn you may need to re-shim the carrier to take up some excessive backlash,
but assemble it first with the original shims, check the backlash and then
make adjustment if necessary. If the gear set is worn enough to create the
excessive backlash it will probably still be noisey, but re-adjusting
backlash may take some of it out.
Steve G.
"TroyM" <NOleica3fSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:40FFC890.EA14B3F6@earthlink.net...
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
is
> > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
be
> > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
In
> > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
sleeve
> > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
inch-lb
> > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
Go
> > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
one,
> > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
damage?
> > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
backlash.
> > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
have
> > now.
> > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
live
> > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > Steve g.
> > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > highway speeds.
> > >
> > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > >
> > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > >
> > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > >
> > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > >
> > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > >
> > > Troy
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Troy,
You don't need to worry about your 250 lb torque wrench. Torque wrench is
there for measuring the torque you're applying. You don't need to worry
about how torque you're applying, you need to just reef on it until the
sleeve crushes. If you're worried about damaging your torque wrench, use a
straight bar. The torque wrench you need to worry about is the inch lb one
that will measure the torque required to turn the pinion with the sleeve
crushed. It sounds like you have all of the equipment necessary. There is
a link in one of my posts to a Richmond Gear .pdf that has pretty detailed
instructions. Sounds like all you need is the confidence. Go slowly,
check your play on the pinion frequently and you'll be fine.
Steve G.
PS, in spite of what Bill has said, if you are not changing R & P just
re-use all of the original shims in their original places and you will have
pinion depth and backlash back to factory placement. If the gear set is
worn you may need to re-shim the carrier to take up some excessive backlash,
but assemble it first with the original shims, check the backlash and then
make adjustment if necessary. If the gear set is worn enough to create the
excessive backlash it will probably still be noisey, but re-adjusting
backlash may take some of it out.
Steve G.
"TroyM" <NOleica3fSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:40FFC890.EA14B3F6@earthlink.net...
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
is
> > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
be
> > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
In
> > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
sleeve
> > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
inch-lb
> > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
Go
> > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
one,
> > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
damage?
> > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
backlash.
> > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
have
> > now.
> > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
live
> > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > Steve g.
> > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > highway speeds.
> > >
> > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > >
> > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > >
> > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > >
> > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > >
> > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > >
> > > Troy
You don't need to worry about your 250 lb torque wrench. Torque wrench is
there for measuring the torque you're applying. You don't need to worry
about how torque you're applying, you need to just reef on it until the
sleeve crushes. If you're worried about damaging your torque wrench, use a
straight bar. The torque wrench you need to worry about is the inch lb one
that will measure the torque required to turn the pinion with the sleeve
crushed. It sounds like you have all of the equipment necessary. There is
a link in one of my posts to a Richmond Gear .pdf that has pretty detailed
instructions. Sounds like all you need is the confidence. Go slowly,
check your play on the pinion frequently and you'll be fine.
Steve G.
PS, in spite of what Bill has said, if you are not changing R & P just
re-use all of the original shims in their original places and you will have
pinion depth and backlash back to factory placement. If the gear set is
worn you may need to re-shim the carrier to take up some excessive backlash,
but assemble it first with the original shims, check the backlash and then
make adjustment if necessary. If the gear set is worn enough to create the
excessive backlash it will probably still be noisey, but re-adjusting
backlash may take some of it out.
Steve G.
"TroyM" <NOleica3fSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:40FFC890.EA14B3F6@earthlink.net...
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
is
> > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
be
> > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
In
> > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
sleeve
> > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
inch-lb
> > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
Go
> > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
one,
> > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
damage?
> > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
backlash.
> > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
have
> > now.
> > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
live
> > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > Steve g.
> > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > highway speeds.
> > >
> > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > >
> > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > >
> > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > >
> > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > >
> > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > >
> > > Troy
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Troy,
You don't need to worry about your 250 lb torque wrench. Torque wrench is
there for measuring the torque you're applying. You don't need to worry
about how torque you're applying, you need to just reef on it until the
sleeve crushes. If you're worried about damaging your torque wrench, use a
straight bar. The torque wrench you need to worry about is the inch lb one
that will measure the torque required to turn the pinion with the sleeve
crushed. It sounds like you have all of the equipment necessary. There is
a link in one of my posts to a Richmond Gear .pdf that has pretty detailed
instructions. Sounds like all you need is the confidence. Go slowly,
check your play on the pinion frequently and you'll be fine.
Steve G.
PS, in spite of what Bill has said, if you are not changing R & P just
re-use all of the original shims in their original places and you will have
pinion depth and backlash back to factory placement. If the gear set is
worn you may need to re-shim the carrier to take up some excessive backlash,
but assemble it first with the original shims, check the backlash and then
make adjustment if necessary. If the gear set is worn enough to create the
excessive backlash it will probably still be noisey, but re-adjusting
backlash may take some of it out.
Steve G.
"TroyM" <NOleica3fSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:40FFC890.EA14B3F6@earthlink.net...
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
is
> > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
be
> > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
In
> > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
sleeve
> > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
inch-lb
> > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
Go
> > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
one,
> > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
damage?
> > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
backlash.
> > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
have
> > now.
> > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
live
> > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > Steve g.
> > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > highway speeds.
> > >
> > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > >
> > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > >
> > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > >
> > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > >
> > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > >
> > > Troy
You don't need to worry about your 250 lb torque wrench. Torque wrench is
there for measuring the torque you're applying. You don't need to worry
about how torque you're applying, you need to just reef on it until the
sleeve crushes. If you're worried about damaging your torque wrench, use a
straight bar. The torque wrench you need to worry about is the inch lb one
that will measure the torque required to turn the pinion with the sleeve
crushed. It sounds like you have all of the equipment necessary. There is
a link in one of my posts to a Richmond Gear .pdf that has pretty detailed
instructions. Sounds like all you need is the confidence. Go slowly,
check your play on the pinion frequently and you'll be fine.
Steve G.
PS, in spite of what Bill has said, if you are not changing R & P just
re-use all of the original shims in their original places and you will have
pinion depth and backlash back to factory placement. If the gear set is
worn you may need to re-shim the carrier to take up some excessive backlash,
but assemble it first with the original shims, check the backlash and then
make adjustment if necessary. If the gear set is worn enough to create the
excessive backlash it will probably still be noisey, but re-adjusting
backlash may take some of it out.
Steve G.
"TroyM" <NOleica3fSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:40FFC890.EA14B3F6@earthlink.net...
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
is
> > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
be
> > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
In
> > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
sleeve
> > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
inch-lb
> > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
Go
> > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
one,
> > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
damage?
> > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
backlash.
> > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
have
> > now.
> > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
live
> > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > Steve g.
> > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > highway speeds.
> > >
> > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > >
> > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > >
> > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > >
> > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > >
> > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > >
> > > Troy
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
CROCK OF ----.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF3DE4.E6A9FA43@***.net...
> I'm still trying to figure out where you come up with this pinion
> Zero thing, it's like your saying there not only no need to change shims
> with new bearings, but maybe you think there's no shim on the pinion
> like the Ford nine inch, that's because in the Ford, the whole pinion
> bearing case is shim against the third member housing.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you
post?
> > Above the photo in your link
> >
> > Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in
this
> > kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims,
marking
> > compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
> >
> > Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
> >
> > And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0"
or
> > neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even
ever
> > opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings
with
> > the gear set you dipshit.
> >
> > But, don't believe me. Go here
> > http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> > and read the entire installation manual and note the references to
pinion
> > depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
> >
> > Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> > right" attitude back you into another corner.
pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
CROCK OF ----.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF3DE4.E6A9FA43@***.net...
> I'm still trying to figure out where you come up with this pinion
> Zero thing, it's like your saying there not only no need to change shims
> with new bearings, but maybe you think there's no shim on the pinion
> like the Ford nine inch, that's because in the Ford, the whole pinion
> bearing case is shim against the third member housing.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you
post?
> > Above the photo in your link
> >
> > Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in
this
> > kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims,
marking
> > compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
> >
> > Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
> >
> > And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0"
or
> > neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even
ever
> > opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings
with
> > the gear set you dipshit.
> >
> > But, don't believe me. Go here
> > http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> > and read the entire installation manual and note the references to
pinion
> > depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
> >
> > Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> > right" attitude back you into another corner.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
CROCK OF ----.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF3DE4.E6A9FA43@***.net...
> I'm still trying to figure out where you come up with this pinion
> Zero thing, it's like your saying there not only no need to change shims
> with new bearings, but maybe you think there's no shim on the pinion
> like the Ford nine inch, that's because in the Ford, the whole pinion
> bearing case is shim against the third member housing.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you
post?
> > Above the photo in your link
> >
> > Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in
this
> > kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims,
marking
> > compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
> >
> > Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
> >
> > And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0"
or
> > neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even
ever
> > opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings
with
> > the gear set you dipshit.
> >
> > But, don't believe me. Go here
> > http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> > and read the entire installation manual and note the references to
pinion
> > depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
> >
> > Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> > right" attitude back you into another corner.
pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
CROCK OF ----.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF3DE4.E6A9FA43@***.net...
> I'm still trying to figure out where you come up with this pinion
> Zero thing, it's like your saying there not only no need to change shims
> with new bearings, but maybe you think there's no shim on the pinion
> like the Ford nine inch, that's because in the Ford, the whole pinion
> bearing case is shim against the third member housing.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you
post?
> > Above the photo in your link
> >
> > Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in
this
> > kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims,
marking
> > compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
> >
> > Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
> >
> > And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0"
or
> > neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even
ever
> > opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings
with
> > the gear set you dipshit.
> >
> > But, don't believe me. Go here
> > http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> > and read the entire installation manual and note the references to
pinion
> > depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
> >
> > Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> > right" attitude back you into another corner.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
CROCK OF ----.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF3DE4.E6A9FA43@***.net...
> I'm still trying to figure out where you come up with this pinion
> Zero thing, it's like your saying there not only no need to change shims
> with new bearings, but maybe you think there's no shim on the pinion
> like the Ford nine inch, that's because in the Ford, the whole pinion
> bearing case is shim against the third member housing.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you
post?
> > Above the photo in your link
> >
> > Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in
this
> > kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims,
marking
> > compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
> >
> > Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
> >
> > And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0"
or
> > neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even
ever
> > opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings
with
> > the gear set you dipshit.
> >
> > But, don't believe me. Go here
> > http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> > and read the entire installation manual and note the references to
pinion
> > depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
> >
> > Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> > right" attitude back you into another corner.
pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
CROCK OF ----.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF3DE4.E6A9FA43@***.net...
> I'm still trying to figure out where you come up with this pinion
> Zero thing, it's like your saying there not only no need to change shims
> with new bearings, but maybe you think there's no shim on the pinion
> like the Ford nine inch, that's because in the Ford, the whole pinion
> bearing case is shim against the third member housing.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you
post?
> > Above the photo in your link
> >
> > Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in
this
> > kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims,
marking
> > compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
> >
> > Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
> >
> > And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0"
or
> > neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even
ever
> > opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings
with
> > the gear set you dipshit.
> >
> > But, don't believe me. Go here
> > http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> > and read the entire installation manual and note the references to
pinion
> > depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
> >
> > Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> > right" attitude back you into another corner.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
CROCK OF ----.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF3DE4.E6A9FA43@***.net...
> I'm still trying to figure out where you come up with this pinion
> Zero thing, it's like your saying there not only no need to change shims
> with new bearings, but maybe you think there's no shim on the pinion
> like the Ford nine inch, that's because in the Ford, the whole pinion
> bearing case is shim against the third member housing.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you
post?
> > Above the photo in your link
> >
> > Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in
this
> > kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims,
marking
> > compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
> >
> > Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
> >
> > And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0"
or
> > neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even
ever
> > opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings
with
> > the gear set you dipshit.
> >
> > But, don't believe me. Go here
> > http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> > and read the entire installation manual and note the references to
pinion
> > depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
> >
> > Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> > right" attitude back you into another corner.
pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
CROCK OF ----.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF3DE4.E6A9FA43@***.net...
> I'm still trying to figure out where you come up with this pinion
> Zero thing, it's like your saying there not only no need to change shims
> with new bearings, but maybe you think there's no shim on the pinion
> like the Ford nine inch, that's because in the Ford, the whole pinion
> bearing case is shim against the third member housing.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you
post?
> > Above the photo in your link
> >
> > Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in
this
> > kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims,
marking
> > compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
> >
> > Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
> >
> > And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0"
or
> > neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even
ever
> > opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings
with
> > the gear set you dipshit.
> >
> > But, don't believe me. Go here
> > http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> > and read the entire installation manual and note the references to
pinion
> > depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
> >
> > Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> > right" attitude back you into another corner.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Steve G wrote:
>
> I went onto explain that the shim thickness will not need to change with new
> brgs.
Hey are you sure you don't work for the shop that blew my rear end?
He said the same thing....
Ya know, there is a reason they say to only use the crush sleeve once
and that a shim kit is needed with new bearings.....
You 'really' shouldn't be misleading folks here. It can cost too much
money if they believe you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> I went onto explain that the shim thickness will not need to change with new
> brgs.
Hey are you sure you don't work for the shop that blew my rear end?
He said the same thing....
Ya know, there is a reason they say to only use the crush sleeve once
and that a shim kit is needed with new bearings.....
You 'really' shouldn't be misleading folks here. It can cost too much
money if they believe you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Steve G wrote:
>
> I went onto explain that the shim thickness will not need to change with new
> brgs.
Hey are you sure you don't work for the shop that blew my rear end?
He said the same thing....
Ya know, there is a reason they say to only use the crush sleeve once
and that a shim kit is needed with new bearings.....
You 'really' shouldn't be misleading folks here. It can cost too much
money if they believe you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> I went onto explain that the shim thickness will not need to change with new
> brgs.
Hey are you sure you don't work for the shop that blew my rear end?
He said the same thing....
Ya know, there is a reason they say to only use the crush sleeve once
and that a shim kit is needed with new bearings.....
You 'really' shouldn't be misleading folks here. It can cost too much
money if they believe you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Steve G wrote:
>
> I went onto explain that the shim thickness will not need to change with new
> brgs.
Hey are you sure you don't work for the shop that blew my rear end?
He said the same thing....
Ya know, there is a reason they say to only use the crush sleeve once
and that a shim kit is needed with new bearings.....
You 'really' shouldn't be misleading folks here. It can cost too much
money if they believe you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> I went onto explain that the shim thickness will not need to change with new
> brgs.
Hey are you sure you don't work for the shop that blew my rear end?
He said the same thing....
Ya know, there is a reason they say to only use the crush sleeve once
and that a shim kit is needed with new bearings.....
You 'really' shouldn't be misleading folks here. It can cost too much
money if they believe you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
