Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at highway speeds. Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some questions for the rearend experts. 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need replacing other than for these obvious clues?? 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be required to crush the new sleeve. 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old bolts and the ring from the carrier??? Any help will be much appreciated. Troy |
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The last supposed 'mechanic' that worked at a Jeep shop tightened down
my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts again. $500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote: > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at > highway speeds. > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some > questions for the rearend experts. > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need > replacing other than for these obvious clues?? > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be > required to crush the new sleeve. > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old > bolts and the ring from the carrier??? > > Any help will be much appreciated. > > Troy |
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The last supposed 'mechanic' that worked at a Jeep shop tightened down
my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts again. $500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote: > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at > highway speeds. > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some > questions for the rearend experts. > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need > replacing other than for these obvious clues?? > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be > required to crush the new sleeve. > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old > bolts and the ring from the carrier??? > > Any help will be much appreciated. > > Troy |
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The last supposed 'mechanic' that worked at a Jeep shop tightened down
my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts again. $500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote: > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at > highway speeds. > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some > questions for the rearend experts. > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need > replacing other than for these obvious clues?? > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be > required to crush the new sleeve. > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old > bolts and the ring from the carrier??? > > Any help will be much appreciated. > > Troy |
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The last supposed 'mechanic' that worked at a Jeep shop tightened down
my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts again. $500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote: > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at > highway speeds. > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some > questions for the rearend experts. > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need > replacing other than for these obvious clues?? > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be > required to crush the new sleeve. > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old > bolts and the ring from the carrier??? > > Any help will be much appreciated. > > Troy |
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
Ever hear of "Throwing good money after bad"? I believe you'll learn the ring and pinion are history, as the bearings wear, so do they. I have just replaced bearings if they were broken by other loose parts, just before disassembly, and got away with it, but that's not your problem. New bearings, new crush sleeve: http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf When it explodes, please send the pictures to: http://www.----------.com/dana35c/ God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote: > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at > highway speeds. > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some > questions for the rearend experts. > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need > replacing other than for these obvious clues?? > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be > required to crush the new sleeve. > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old > bolts and the ring from the carrier??? > > Any help will be much appreciated. > > Troy |
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
Ever hear of "Throwing good money after bad"? I believe you'll learn the ring and pinion are history, as the bearings wear, so do they. I have just replaced bearings if they were broken by other loose parts, just before disassembly, and got away with it, but that's not your problem. New bearings, new crush sleeve: http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf When it explodes, please send the pictures to: http://www.----------.com/dana35c/ God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote: > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at > highway speeds. > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some > questions for the rearend experts. > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need > replacing other than for these obvious clues?? > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be > required to crush the new sleeve. > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old > bolts and the ring from the carrier??? > > Any help will be much appreciated. > > Troy |
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
Ever hear of "Throwing good money after bad"? I believe you'll learn the ring and pinion are history, as the bearings wear, so do they. I have just replaced bearings if they were broken by other loose parts, just before disassembly, and got away with it, but that's not your problem. New bearings, new crush sleeve: http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf When it explodes, please send the pictures to: http://www.----------.com/dana35c/ God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote: > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at > highway speeds. > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some > questions for the rearend experts. > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need > replacing other than for these obvious clues?? > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be > required to crush the new sleeve. > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old > bolts and the ring from the carrier??? > > Any help will be much appreciated. > > Troy |
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
Ever hear of "Throwing good money after bad"? I believe you'll learn the ring and pinion are history, as the bearings wear, so do they. I have just replaced bearings if they were broken by other loose parts, just before disassembly, and got away with it, but that's not your problem. New bearings, new crush sleeve: http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf When it explodes, please send the pictures to: http://www.----------.com/dana35c/ God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote: > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at > highway speeds. > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some > questions for the rearend experts. > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need > replacing other than for these obvious clues?? > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be > required to crush the new sleeve. > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old > bolts and the ring from the carrier??? > > Any help will be much appreciated. > > Troy |
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it is
there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will be new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly. In most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the sleeve until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an inch-lb torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion. Go too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again. Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back one, deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible damage? If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear backlash. Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly have now. Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and live with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it. Steve g. <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net... > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at > highway speeds. > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some > questions for the rearend experts. > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need > replacing other than for these obvious clues?? > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be > required to crush the new sleeve. > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old > bolts and the ring from the carrier??? > > Any help will be much appreciated. > > Troy |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:44 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands