Dana 35c Overhaul questions
07-21-2004, 01:40 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
highway speeds.
Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
questions for the rearend experts.
1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
replacing other than for these obvious clues??
2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
required to crush the new sleeve.
3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
bolts and the ring from the carrier???
Any help will be much appreciated.
Troy
noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
highway speeds.
Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
questions for the rearend experts.
1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
replacing other than for these obvious clues??
2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
required to crush the new sleeve.
3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
bolts and the ring from the carrier???
Any help will be much appreciated.
Troy
07-21-2004, 01:53 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The last supposed 'mechanic' that worked at a Jeep shop tightened down
my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts
again.
$500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running
again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts
again.
$500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running
again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
07-21-2004, 01:53 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The last supposed 'mechanic' that worked at a Jeep shop tightened down
my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts
again.
$500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running
again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts
again.
$500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running
again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
07-21-2004, 01:53 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The last supposed 'mechanic' that worked at a Jeep shop tightened down
my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts
again.
$500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running
again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts
again.
$500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running
again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
07-21-2004, 01:53 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The last supposed 'mechanic' that worked at a Jeep shop tightened down
my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts
again.
$500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running
again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts
again.
$500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running
again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
07-21-2004, 02:35 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
Ever hear of "Throwing good money after bad"?
I believe you'll learn the ring and pinion are history, as the
bearings wear, so do they. I have just replaced bearings if they were
broken by other loose parts, just before disassembly, and got away with
it, but that's not your problem.
New bearings, new crush sleeve:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf
When it explodes, please send the pictures to:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
Ever hear of "Throwing good money after bad"?
I believe you'll learn the ring and pinion are history, as the
bearings wear, so do they. I have just replaced bearings if they were
broken by other loose parts, just before disassembly, and got away with
it, but that's not your problem.
New bearings, new crush sleeve:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf
When it explodes, please send the pictures to:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
07-21-2004, 02:35 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
Ever hear of "Throwing good money after bad"?
I believe you'll learn the ring and pinion are history, as the
bearings wear, so do they. I have just replaced bearings if they were
broken by other loose parts, just before disassembly, and got away with
it, but that's not your problem.
New bearings, new crush sleeve:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf
When it explodes, please send the pictures to:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
Ever hear of "Throwing good money after bad"?
I believe you'll learn the ring and pinion are history, as the
bearings wear, so do they. I have just replaced bearings if they were
broken by other loose parts, just before disassembly, and got away with
it, but that's not your problem.
New bearings, new crush sleeve:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf
When it explodes, please send the pictures to:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
07-21-2004, 02:35 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
Ever hear of "Throwing good money after bad"?
I believe you'll learn the ring and pinion are history, as the
bearings wear, so do they. I have just replaced bearings if they were
broken by other loose parts, just before disassembly, and got away with
it, but that's not your problem.
New bearings, new crush sleeve:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf
When it explodes, please send the pictures to:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
Ever hear of "Throwing good money after bad"?
I believe you'll learn the ring and pinion are history, as the
bearings wear, so do they. I have just replaced bearings if they were
broken by other loose parts, just before disassembly, and got away with
it, but that's not your problem.
New bearings, new crush sleeve:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf
When it explodes, please send the pictures to:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
07-21-2004, 02:35 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
Ever hear of "Throwing good money after bad"?
I believe you'll learn the ring and pinion are history, as the
bearings wear, so do they. I have just replaced bearings if they were
broken by other loose parts, just before disassembly, and got away with
it, but that's not your problem.
New bearings, new crush sleeve:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf
When it explodes, please send the pictures to:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
Ever hear of "Throwing good money after bad"?
I believe you'll learn the ring and pinion are history, as the
bearings wear, so do they. I have just replaced bearings if they were
broken by other loose parts, just before disassembly, and got away with
it, but that's not your problem.
New bearings, new crush sleeve:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf
When it explodes, please send the pictures to:
http://www.----------.com/dana35c/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
gollee@ohmygosh.net wrote:
>
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
07-21-2004, 08:22 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it is
there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will be
new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly. In
most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the sleeve
until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an inch-lb
torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion. Go
too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back one,
deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible damage?
If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear backlash.
Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly have
now.
Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and live
with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
Steve g.
<gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy
there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will be
new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly. In
most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the sleeve
until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an inch-lb
torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion. Go
too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back one,
deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible damage?
If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear backlash.
Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly have
now.
Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and live
with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
Steve g.
<gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy