Steve G

Sorry, I'm in the wrong end of the world, Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada. There
aren't really any specialty tools that you need other than a couple of
torque wrenches (ft-lbs and in-lbs) and a press. Get yourself a good shop
manual for your vehicle and follow it through. You can do it.
Steve g.
"Eric" <gymrat@baileyscorner.com> wrote in message
news:WgFLc.13543$WP1.4108@fe1.texas.rr.com...
> Anywhere near San Antonio? I want to re-gear but don't want to pay
someone
> big $$ to do it for me. I'd rather learn to do it myself, but don't have
> nearly enough tools (and in buying them I'd spend more than paying someone
> to do it for me...). I've been known to pay for assistance in vast
amounts
> of beer, food, and general entertainment (laughing at my expense as I
fumble
> around trying to get something to work, of course)... ;-) So far I've
done
> two lifts on my TJ, intake, exhaust, all fluids, rock rails, cb, etc.
It's
> been a great learning experience. Had friends to help out when needed,
but
> I've moved!
>
> Eric
> 99 TJ SE
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:U3FLc.76442$Mr4.68719@pd7tw1no...
> > I've never seen pinion bearings supplied with shims, so I'm not sure
what
> > I'd throw away. You're right tho, we're not going to agree on this. I
> > can't count how many diffs I've replace bearings in and never had to
> change
> > any shims and never had a noise either.
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40FF14D8.10B400EA@***.net...
> > > So we agree to disagree. Just throw away the shim kit you don't
it.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Steve G wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Nope, didn't blow over it. If you are just replacing the bearings
you
> > > > re-use all of the original shims in all of the original positions.
> The
> > new
> > > > bearings will bring the crown and pinion gears back to original
> > position.
> > > > The gauge used to determine pinion depth ( if you're lucky enough to
> > have
> > > > one and not use machinist bluing to determine contact pattern) does
> not
> > > > anticipate/use the bearings to measure/determine settings. Some
gear
> > sets
> > > > come with a measurement from "0" engraved in the head of the pinion
> (ie.
> > > > "+.002 or -.004). Obviously this is done without using bearings,
so
> > it
> > > > anticipates that the correct bearings are built to a tolerance that
> will
> > > > maintain these settings.
> > > > Steve G.
> >
> >
>
>

Steve G

Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you post?
Above the photo in your link

Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in this
kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims, marking
compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer

Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?

And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0" or
neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even ever
opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings with
the gear set you dipshit.

But, don't believe me. Go here
http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
and read the entire installation manual and note the references to pinion
depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.

Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
right" attitude back you into another corner.

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF2A48.3DA01EA0@***.net...
> That's because the shims come in a kit with crush sleeve. Maybe you
> just worked for others that may have had bins full of theses, but the
> jobber had to buy the whole kit. What a Ford 9" from Summit looks like:
>
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...57#largerimage
> I frankly don't believe you!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > I've never seen pinion bearings supplied with shims, so I'm not sure
what
> > I'd throw away. You're right tho, we're not going to agree on this. I
> > can't count how many diffs I've replace bearings in and never had to
change
> > any shims and never had a noise either.

Steve G

Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you post?
Above the photo in your link

Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in this
kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims, marking
compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer

Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?

And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0" or
neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even ever
opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings with
the gear set you dipshit.

But, don't believe me. Go here
http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
and read the entire installation manual and note the references to pinion
depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.

Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
right" attitude back you into another corner.

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF2A48.3DA01EA0@***.net...
> That's because the shims come in a kit with crush sleeve. Maybe you
> just worked for others that may have had bins full of theses, but the
> jobber had to buy the whole kit. What a Ford 9" from Summit looks like:
>
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...57#largerimage
> I frankly don't believe you!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > I've never seen pinion bearings supplied with shims, so I'm not sure
what
> > I'd throw away. You're right tho, we're not going to agree on this. I
> > can't count how many diffs I've replace bearings in and never had to
change
> > any shims and never had a noise either.

Steve G

Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you post?
Above the photo in your link

Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in this
kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims, marking
compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer

Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?

And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0" or
neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even ever
opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings with
the gear set you dipshit.

But, don't believe me. Go here
http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
and read the entire installation manual and note the references to pinion
depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.

Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
right" attitude back you into another corner.

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF2A48.3DA01EA0@***.net...
> That's because the shims come in a kit with crush sleeve. Maybe you
> just worked for others that may have had bins full of theses, but the
> jobber had to buy the whole kit. What a Ford 9" from Summit looks like:
>
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...57#largerimage
> I frankly don't believe you!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > I've never seen pinion bearings supplied with shims, so I'm not sure
what
> > I'd throw away. You're right tho, we're not going to agree on this. I
> > can't count how many diffs I've replace bearings in and never had to
change
> > any shims and never had a noise either.

Steve G

Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you post?
Above the photo in your link

Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in this
kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims, marking
compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer

Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?

And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0" or
neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even ever
opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings with
the gear set you dipshit.

But, don't believe me. Go here
http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
and read the entire installation manual and note the references to pinion
depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.

Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
right" attitude back you into another corner.

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF2A48.3DA01EA0@***.net...
> That's because the shims come in a kit with crush sleeve. Maybe you
> just worked for others that may have had bins full of theses, but the
> jobber had to buy the whole kit. What a Ford 9" from Summit looks like:
>
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...57#largerimage
> I frankly don't believe you!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > I've never seen pinion bearings supplied with shims, so I'm not sure
what
> > I'd throw away. You're right tho, we're not going to agree on this. I
> > can't count how many diffs I've replace bearings in and never had to
change
> > any shims and never had a noise either.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Steve, you ignorant son of a bitch. I'm going by what the poster said.
Remember? ---- no! For those that with a very short memory problem, Troy
wrote:
"From: gollee@ohmygosh.net 10:40 AM
Subject: Dana 35c Overhaul questions

The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
highway speeds.

Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
questions for the rearend experts.

1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
replacing other than for these obvious clues??

2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
required to crush the new sleeve.

3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
bolts and the ring from the carrier???

Any help will be much appreciated.

Troy"

How besides the bearings he said he had the crush sleeve and the
ring replacement bolts. Now if you had every setup a rear end you would
know Troy had to have buought a kit with shims, how else could "YOU"
have bought them?!!!!!! Like these:
http://www.reiderracing.com/install_kits.htm Now go back to lying to
prospective home buyers, and stop misleading people here!
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Steve G wrote:
>
> Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you post?
> Above the photo in your link
>
> Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in this
> kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims, marking
> compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
>
> Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
>
> And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0" or
> neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even ever
> opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings with
> the gear set you dipshit.
>
> But, don't believe me. Go here
> http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> and read the entire installation manual and note the references to pinion
> depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
>
> Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> right" attitude back you into another corner.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Steve, you ignorant son of a bitch. I'm going by what the poster said.
Remember? ---- no! For those that with a very short memory problem, Troy
wrote:
"From: gollee@ohmygosh.net 10:40 AM
Subject: Dana 35c Overhaul questions

The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
highway speeds.

Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
questions for the rearend experts.

1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
replacing other than for these obvious clues??

2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
required to crush the new sleeve.

3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
bolts and the ring from the carrier???

Any help will be much appreciated.

Troy"

How besides the bearings he said he had the crush sleeve and the
ring replacement bolts. Now if you had every setup a rear end you would
know Troy had to have buought a kit with shims, how else could "YOU"
have bought them?!!!!!! Like these:
http://www.reiderracing.com/install_kits.htm Now go back to lying to
prospective home buyers, and stop misleading people here!
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Steve G wrote:
>
> Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you post?
> Above the photo in your link
>
> Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in this
> kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims, marking
> compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
>
> Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
>
> And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0" or
> neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even ever
> opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings with
> the gear set you dipshit.
>
> But, don't believe me. Go here
> http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> and read the entire installation manual and note the references to pinion
> depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
>
> Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> right" attitude back you into another corner.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Steve, you ignorant son of a bitch. I'm going by what the poster said.
Remember? ---- no! For those that with a very short memory problem, Troy
wrote:
"From: gollee@ohmygosh.net 10:40 AM
Subject: Dana 35c Overhaul questions

The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
highway speeds.

Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
questions for the rearend experts.

1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
replacing other than for these obvious clues??

2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
required to crush the new sleeve.

3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
bolts and the ring from the carrier???

Any help will be much appreciated.

Troy"

How besides the bearings he said he had the crush sleeve and the
ring replacement bolts. Now if you had every setup a rear end you would
know Troy had to have buought a kit with shims, how else could "YOU"
have bought them?!!!!!! Like these:
http://www.reiderracing.com/install_kits.htm Now go back to lying to
prospective home buyers, and stop misleading people here!
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Steve G wrote:
>
> Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you post?
> Above the photo in your link
>
> Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in this
> kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims, marking
> compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
>
> Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
>
> And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0" or
> neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even ever
> opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings with
> the gear set you dipshit.
>
> But, don't believe me. Go here
> http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> and read the entire installation manual and note the references to pinion
> depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
>
> Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> right" attitude back you into another corner.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Steve, you ignorant son of a bitch. I'm going by what the poster said.
Remember? ---- no! For those that with a very short memory problem, Troy
wrote:
"From: gollee@ohmygosh.net 10:40 AM
Subject: Dana 35c Overhaul questions

The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
highway speeds.

Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
questions for the rearend experts.

1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
replacing other than for these obvious clues??

2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
required to crush the new sleeve.

3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
bolts and the ring from the carrier???

Any help will be much appreciated.

Troy"

How besides the bearings he said he had the crush sleeve and the
ring replacement bolts. Now if you had every setup a rear end you would
know Troy had to have buought a kit with shims, how else could "YOU"
have bought them?!!!!!! Like these:
http://www.reiderracing.com/install_kits.htm Now go back to lying to
prospective home buyers, and stop misleading people here!
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Steve G wrote:
>
> Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you post?
> Above the photo in your link
>
> Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in this
> kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims, marking
> compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
>
> Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
>
> And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0" or
> neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even ever
> opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings with
> the gear set you dipshit.
>
> But, don't believe me. Go here
> http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> and read the entire installation manual and note the references to pinion
> depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
>
> Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> right" attitude back you into another corner.

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

I'm still trying to figure out where you come up with this pinion
Zero thing, it's like your saying there not only no need to change shims
with new bearings, but maybe you think there's no shim on the pinion
like the Ford nine inch, that's because in the Ford, the whole pinion
bearing case is shim against the third member housing.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Steve G wrote:
>
> Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you post?
> Above the photo in your link
>
> Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in this
> kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims, marking
> compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer
>
> Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?
>
> And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0" or
> neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even ever
> opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings with
> the gear set you dipshit.
>
> But, don't believe me. Go here
> http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
> and read the entire installation manual and note the references to pinion
> depth or checking distances marked on the gear set.
>
> Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always
> right" attitude back you into another corner.