The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it is
there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will be
new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly. In
most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the sleeve
until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an inch-lb
torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion. Go
too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back one,
deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible damage?
If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear backlash.
Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly have
now.
Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and live
with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
Steve g.
<gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy

 

The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it is
there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will be
new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly. In
most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the sleeve
until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an inch-lb
torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion. Go
too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back one,
deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible damage?
If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear backlash.
Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly have
now.
Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and live
with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
Steve g.
<gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy

 

The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it is
there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will be
new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly. In
most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the sleeve
until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an inch-lb
torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion. Go
too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back one,
deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible damage?
If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear backlash.
Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly have
now.
Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and live
with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
Steve g.
<gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> highway speeds.
>
> Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> questions for the rearend experts.
>
> 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> replacing other than for these obvious clues??
>
> 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> required to crush the new sleeve.
>
> 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> bolts and the ring from the carrier???
>
> Any help will be much appreciated.
>
> Troy

 

Hi Steve,
You kind of blew over the fact that pinion depth is established
with a shim that will change with new bearings:
http://www.----------.com/pinionshim.jpg Making it a much bigger puzzle:
http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Steve G wrote:
>
> The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it is
> there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will be
> new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly. In
> most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the sleeve
> until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an inch-lb
> torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion. Go
> too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back one,
> deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible damage?
> If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear backlash.
> Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly have
> now.
> Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and live
> with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> Steve g.
> <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > highway speeds.
> >
> > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > questions for the rearend experts.
> >
> > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> >
> > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > required to crush the new sleeve.
> >
> > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> >
> > Any help will be much appreciated.
> >
> > Troy

 

Hi Steve,
You kind of blew over the fact that pinion depth is established
with a shim that will change with new bearings:
http://www.----------.com/pinionshim.jpg Making it a much bigger puzzle:
http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Steve G wrote:
>
> The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it is
> there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will be
> new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly. In
> most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the sleeve
> until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an inch-lb
> torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion. Go
> too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back one,
> deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible damage?
> If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear backlash.
> Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly have
> now.
> Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and live
> with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> Steve g.
> <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > highway speeds.
> >
> > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > questions for the rearend experts.
> >
> > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> >
> > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > required to crush the new sleeve.
> >
> > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> >
> > Any help will be much appreciated.
> >
> > Troy

 

Hi Steve,
You kind of blew over the fact that pinion depth is established
with a shim that will change with new bearings:
http://www.----------.com/pinionshim.jpg Making it a much bigger puzzle:
http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Steve G wrote:
>
> The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it is
> there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will be
> new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly. In
> most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the sleeve
> until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an inch-lb
> torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion. Go
> too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back one,
> deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible damage?
> If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear backlash.
> Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly have
> now.
> Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and live
> with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> Steve g.
> <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > highway speeds.
> >
> > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > questions for the rearend experts.
> >
> > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> >
> > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > required to crush the new sleeve.
> >
> > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> >
> > Any help will be much appreciated.
> >
> > Troy

 

Hi Steve,
You kind of blew over the fact that pinion depth is established
with a shim that will change with new bearings:
http://www.----------.com/pinionshim.jpg Making it a much bigger puzzle:
http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Steve G wrote:
>
> The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it is
> there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will be
> new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly. In
> most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the sleeve
> until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an inch-lb
> torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion. Go
> too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back one,
> deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible damage?
> If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear backlash.
> Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly have
> now.
> Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and live
> with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> Steve g.
> <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > highway speeds.
> >
> > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > questions for the rearend experts.
> >
> > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> >
> > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > required to crush the new sleeve.
> >
> > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> >
> > Any help will be much appreciated.
> >
> > Troy

 

Nope, didn't blow over it. If you are just replacing the bearings you
re-use all of the original shims in all of the original positions. The new
bearings will bring the crown and pinion gears back to original position.
The gauge used to determine pinion depth ( if you're lucky enough to have
one and not use machinist bluing to determine contact pattern) does not
anticipate/use the bearings to measure/determine settings. Some gear sets
come with a measurement from "0" engraved in the head of the pinion (ie.
"+.002 or -.004). Obviously this is done without using bearings, so it
anticipates that the correct bearings are built to a tolerance that will
maintain these settings.
Steve G.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF1112.645090F6@***.net...
> Hi Steve,
> You kind of blew over the fact that pinion depth is established
> with a shim that will change with new bearings:
> http://www.----------.com/pinionshim.jpg Making it a much bigger puzzle:
> http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
is
> > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
be
> > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
In
> > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
sleeve
> > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
inch-lb
> > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
Go
> > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
one,
> > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
damage?
> > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
backlash.
> > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
have
> > now.
> > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
live
> > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > Steve g.
> > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > highway speeds.
> > >
> > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > >
> > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > >
> > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > >
> > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > >
> > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > >
> > > Troy

 

Nope, didn't blow over it. If you are just replacing the bearings you
re-use all of the original shims in all of the original positions. The new
bearings will bring the crown and pinion gears back to original position.
The gauge used to determine pinion depth ( if you're lucky enough to have
one and not use machinist bluing to determine contact pattern) does not
anticipate/use the bearings to measure/determine settings. Some gear sets
come with a measurement from "0" engraved in the head of the pinion (ie.
"+.002 or -.004). Obviously this is done without using bearings, so it
anticipates that the correct bearings are built to a tolerance that will
maintain these settings.
Steve G.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF1112.645090F6@***.net...
> Hi Steve,
> You kind of blew over the fact that pinion depth is established
> with a shim that will change with new bearings:
> http://www.----------.com/pinionshim.jpg Making it a much bigger puzzle:
> http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
is
> > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
be
> > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
In
> > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
sleeve
> > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
inch-lb
> > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
Go
> > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
one,
> > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
damage?
> > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
backlash.
> > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
have
> > now.
> > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
live
> > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > Steve g.
> > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > highway speeds.
> > >
> > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > >
> > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > >
> > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > >
> > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > >
> > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > >
> > > Troy

 

Nope, didn't blow over it. If you are just replacing the bearings you
re-use all of the original shims in all of the original positions. The new
bearings will bring the crown and pinion gears back to original position.
The gauge used to determine pinion depth ( if you're lucky enough to have
one and not use machinist bluing to determine contact pattern) does not
anticipate/use the bearings to measure/determine settings. Some gear sets
come with a measurement from "0" engraved in the head of the pinion (ie.
"+.002 or -.004). Obviously this is done without using bearings, so it
anticipates that the correct bearings are built to a tolerance that will
maintain these settings.
Steve G.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FF1112.645090F6@***.net...
> Hi Steve,
> You kind of blew over the fact that pinion depth is established
> with a shim that will change with new bearings:
> http://www.----------.com/pinionshim.jpg Making it a much bigger puzzle:
> http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
is
> > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
be
> > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
In
> > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
sleeve
> > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
inch-lb
> > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
Go
> > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
one,
> > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
damage?
> > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
backlash.
> > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
have
> > now.
> > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
live
> > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > Steve g.
> > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > highway speeds.
> > >
> > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > >
> > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > >
> > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > >
> > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > >
> > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > >
> > > Troy