Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
One final question for now.
When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
preload.
Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
How do you guys do it???
Thanks again for all the good info.
Troy
When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
preload.
Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
How do you guys do it???
Thanks again for all the good info.
Troy
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
One final question for now.
When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
preload.
Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
How do you guys do it???
Thanks again for all the good info.
Troy
When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
preload.
Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
How do you guys do it???
Thanks again for all the good info.
Troy
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
One final question for now.
When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
preload.
Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
How do you guys do it???
Thanks again for all the good info.
Troy
When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
preload.
Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
How do you guys do it???
Thanks again for all the good info.
Troy
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
Forget about your torque wrench, if you used it at 250 pounds it
would twist off the driver and you may need to go all the way to 350 to
shirk the sleeve: http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf Without the
experience of knowing how far to turn the nut to take up the slack you
feel with your hand flopping the pinion back and forth, you'll have to
stop many times, knowing if that if you over tighten and the bearing has
too much resistance (over 7" lb.) to rotate, that the crush sleeve will
be history. Mike will kill me, but I use an impact and hold, dampen the
yoke with the other hand. I find that about four or five short bursts,
like ten round bursts, will get me in the ball park. from there it's the
pipe wrench and "L", seeing my 3/4 drive set was stolen.
Put it together without the sleeve, until you're satisfied with the
bluing read.
Good luck.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
TroyM wrote:
>
> One final question for now.
>
> When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
> preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
> inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
> different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
> lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
> remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
> preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
> times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
> preload.
>
> Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
> when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
>
> How do you guys do it???
>
> Thanks again for all the good info.
> Troy
Forget about your torque wrench, if you used it at 250 pounds it
would twist off the driver and you may need to go all the way to 350 to
shirk the sleeve: http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf Without the
experience of knowing how far to turn the nut to take up the slack you
feel with your hand flopping the pinion back and forth, you'll have to
stop many times, knowing if that if you over tighten and the bearing has
too much resistance (over 7" lb.) to rotate, that the crush sleeve will
be history. Mike will kill me, but I use an impact and hold, dampen the
yoke with the other hand. I find that about four or five short bursts,
like ten round bursts, will get me in the ball park. from there it's the
pipe wrench and "L", seeing my 3/4 drive set was stolen.
Put it together without the sleeve, until you're satisfied with the
bluing read.
Good luck.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
TroyM wrote:
>
> One final question for now.
>
> When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
> preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
> inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
> different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
> lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
> remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
> preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
> times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
> preload.
>
> Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
> when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
>
> How do you guys do it???
>
> Thanks again for all the good info.
> Troy
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
Forget about your torque wrench, if you used it at 250 pounds it
would twist off the driver and you may need to go all the way to 350 to
shirk the sleeve: http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf Without the
experience of knowing how far to turn the nut to take up the slack you
feel with your hand flopping the pinion back and forth, you'll have to
stop many times, knowing if that if you over tighten and the bearing has
too much resistance (over 7" lb.) to rotate, that the crush sleeve will
be history. Mike will kill me, but I use an impact and hold, dampen the
yoke with the other hand. I find that about four or five short bursts,
like ten round bursts, will get me in the ball park. from there it's the
pipe wrench and "L", seeing my 3/4 drive set was stolen.
Put it together without the sleeve, until you're satisfied with the
bluing read.
Good luck.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
TroyM wrote:
>
> One final question for now.
>
> When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
> preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
> inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
> different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
> lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
> remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
> preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
> times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
> preload.
>
> Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
> when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
>
> How do you guys do it???
>
> Thanks again for all the good info.
> Troy
Forget about your torque wrench, if you used it at 250 pounds it
would twist off the driver and you may need to go all the way to 350 to
shirk the sleeve: http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf Without the
experience of knowing how far to turn the nut to take up the slack you
feel with your hand flopping the pinion back and forth, you'll have to
stop many times, knowing if that if you over tighten and the bearing has
too much resistance (over 7" lb.) to rotate, that the crush sleeve will
be history. Mike will kill me, but I use an impact and hold, dampen the
yoke with the other hand. I find that about four or five short bursts,
like ten round bursts, will get me in the ball park. from there it's the
pipe wrench and "L", seeing my 3/4 drive set was stolen.
Put it together without the sleeve, until you're satisfied with the
bluing read.
Good luck.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
TroyM wrote:
>
> One final question for now.
>
> When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
> preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
> inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
> different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
> lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
> remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
> preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
> times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
> preload.
>
> Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
> when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
>
> How do you guys do it???
>
> Thanks again for all the good info.
> Troy
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
Forget about your torque wrench, if you used it at 250 pounds it
would twist off the driver and you may need to go all the way to 350 to
shirk the sleeve: http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf Without the
experience of knowing how far to turn the nut to take up the slack you
feel with your hand flopping the pinion back and forth, you'll have to
stop many times, knowing if that if you over tighten and the bearing has
too much resistance (over 7" lb.) to rotate, that the crush sleeve will
be history. Mike will kill me, but I use an impact and hold, dampen the
yoke with the other hand. I find that about four or five short bursts,
like ten round bursts, will get me in the ball park. from there it's the
pipe wrench and "L", seeing my 3/4 drive set was stolen.
Put it together without the sleeve, until you're satisfied with the
bluing read.
Good luck.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
TroyM wrote:
>
> One final question for now.
>
> When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
> preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
> inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
> different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
> lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
> remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
> preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
> times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
> preload.
>
> Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
> when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
>
> How do you guys do it???
>
> Thanks again for all the good info.
> Troy
Forget about your torque wrench, if you used it at 250 pounds it
would twist off the driver and you may need to go all the way to 350 to
shirk the sleeve: http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf Without the
experience of knowing how far to turn the nut to take up the slack you
feel with your hand flopping the pinion back and forth, you'll have to
stop many times, knowing if that if you over tighten and the bearing has
too much resistance (over 7" lb.) to rotate, that the crush sleeve will
be history. Mike will kill me, but I use an impact and hold, dampen the
yoke with the other hand. I find that about four or five short bursts,
like ten round bursts, will get me in the ball park. from there it's the
pipe wrench and "L", seeing my 3/4 drive set was stolen.
Put it together without the sleeve, until you're satisfied with the
bluing read.
Good luck.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
TroyM wrote:
>
> One final question for now.
>
> When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
> preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
> inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
> different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
> lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
> remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
> preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
> times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
> preload.
>
> Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
> when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
>
> How do you guys do it???
>
> Thanks again for all the good info.
> Troy
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
Forget about your torque wrench, if you used it at 250 pounds it
would twist off the driver and you may need to go all the way to 350 to
shirk the sleeve: http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf Without the
experience of knowing how far to turn the nut to take up the slack you
feel with your hand flopping the pinion back and forth, you'll have to
stop many times, knowing if that if you over tighten and the bearing has
too much resistance (over 7" lb.) to rotate, that the crush sleeve will
be history. Mike will kill me, but I use an impact and hold, dampen the
yoke with the other hand. I find that about four or five short bursts,
like ten round bursts, will get me in the ball park. from there it's the
pipe wrench and "L", seeing my 3/4 drive set was stolen.
Put it together without the sleeve, until you're satisfied with the
bluing read.
Good luck.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
TroyM wrote:
>
> One final question for now.
>
> When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
> preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
> inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
> different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
> lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
> remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
> preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
> times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
> preload.
>
> Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
> when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
>
> How do you guys do it???
>
> Thanks again for all the good info.
> Troy
Forget about your torque wrench, if you used it at 250 pounds it
would twist off the driver and you may need to go all the way to 350 to
shirk the sleeve: http://www.----------.com/dana35c.pdf Without the
experience of knowing how far to turn the nut to take up the slack you
feel with your hand flopping the pinion back and forth, you'll have to
stop many times, knowing if that if you over tighten and the bearing has
too much resistance (over 7" lb.) to rotate, that the crush sleeve will
be history. Mike will kill me, but I use an impact and hold, dampen the
yoke with the other hand. I find that about four or five short bursts,
like ten round bursts, will get me in the ball park. from there it's the
pipe wrench and "L", seeing my 3/4 drive set was stolen.
Put it together without the sleeve, until you're satisfied with the
bluing read.
Good luck.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
TroyM wrote:
>
> One final question for now.
>
> When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
> preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
> inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
> different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
> lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
> remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
> preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
> times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
> preload.
>
> Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
> when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
>
> How do you guys do it???
>
> Thanks again for all the good info.
> Troy
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
once you start crushing the sleeve then you take a torq. reading with a inch
pound torq. wrench the spec is 24 in.(the amount of torq. the pinion yake starts
to move)
once that is done then you will need a dummy bearing kit to get the shims
correct for the case/carrier bearings with a bac lash of .008to .012
then watch the pattern on the ring gear to see if rides in the middle of the
gear when it does with the baclash spec met then you have a quiet rear axle as
long as no one uses the center pumpkin to jack it up and distort the case
Steve G wrote:
> Troy,
> You don't need to worry about your 250 lb torque wrench. Torque wrench is
> there for measuring the torque you're applying. You don't need to worry
> about how torque you're applying, you need to just reef on it until the
> sleeve crushes. If you're worried about damaging your torque wrench, use a
> straight bar. The torque wrench you need to worry about is the inch lb one
> that will measure the torque required to turn the pinion with the sleeve
> crushed. It sounds like you have all of the equipment necessary. There is
> a link in one of my posts to a Richmond Gear .pdf that has pretty detailed
> instructions. Sounds like all you need is the confidence. Go slowly,
> check your play on the pinion frequently and you'll be fine.
> Steve G.
> PS, in spite of what Bill has said, if you are not changing R & P just
> re-use all of the original shims in their original places and you will have
> pinion depth and backlash back to factory placement. If the gear set is
> worn you may need to re-shim the carrier to take up some excessive backlash,
> but assemble it first with the original shims, check the backlash and then
> make adjustment if necessary. If the gear set is worn enough to create the
> excessive backlash it will probably still be noisey, but re-adjusting
> backlash may take some of it out.
> Steve G.
> "TroyM" <NOleica3fSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:40FFC890.EA14B3F6@earthlink.net...
> > Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> > to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> > obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> > wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> > going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> > this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> > thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> > of you
> > can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> > whichever way I go.
> >
> > Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> > etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> > are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> > case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> > shop for fifty bucks.
> >
> > But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> > re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> > quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> > route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> > worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> > then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> > presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> > deal to do it all over again.
> >
> > Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> > have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
> >
> > Troy
> >
> > Steve G wrote:
> > >
> > > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
> is
> > > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
> be
> > > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
> In
> > > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
> sleeve
> > > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
> inch-lb
> > > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
> Go
> > > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
> one,
> > > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
> damage?
> > > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
> backlash.
> > > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
> have
> > > now.
> > > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
> live
> > > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > > Steve g.
> > > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > > highway speeds.
> > > >
> > > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > > >
> > > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > > >
> > > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > > >
> > > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > > >
> > > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Troy
pound torq. wrench the spec is 24 in.(the amount of torq. the pinion yake starts
to move)
once that is done then you will need a dummy bearing kit to get the shims
correct for the case/carrier bearings with a bac lash of .008to .012
then watch the pattern on the ring gear to see if rides in the middle of the
gear when it does with the baclash spec met then you have a quiet rear axle as
long as no one uses the center pumpkin to jack it up and distort the case
Steve G wrote:
> Troy,
> You don't need to worry about your 250 lb torque wrench. Torque wrench is
> there for measuring the torque you're applying. You don't need to worry
> about how torque you're applying, you need to just reef on it until the
> sleeve crushes. If you're worried about damaging your torque wrench, use a
> straight bar. The torque wrench you need to worry about is the inch lb one
> that will measure the torque required to turn the pinion with the sleeve
> crushed. It sounds like you have all of the equipment necessary. There is
> a link in one of my posts to a Richmond Gear .pdf that has pretty detailed
> instructions. Sounds like all you need is the confidence. Go slowly,
> check your play on the pinion frequently and you'll be fine.
> Steve G.
> PS, in spite of what Bill has said, if you are not changing R & P just
> re-use all of the original shims in their original places and you will have
> pinion depth and backlash back to factory placement. If the gear set is
> worn you may need to re-shim the carrier to take up some excessive backlash,
> but assemble it first with the original shims, check the backlash and then
> make adjustment if necessary. If the gear set is worn enough to create the
> excessive backlash it will probably still be noisey, but re-adjusting
> backlash may take some of it out.
> Steve G.
> "TroyM" <NOleica3fSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:40FFC890.EA14B3F6@earthlink.net...
> > Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> > to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> > obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> > wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> > going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> > this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> > thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> > of you
> > can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> > whichever way I go.
> >
> > Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> > etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> > are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> > case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> > shop for fifty bucks.
> >
> > But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> > re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> > quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> > route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> > worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> > then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> > presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> > deal to do it all over again.
> >
> > Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> > have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
> >
> > Troy
> >
> > Steve G wrote:
> > >
> > > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
> is
> > > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
> be
> > > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
> In
> > > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
> sleeve
> > > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
> inch-lb
> > > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
> Go
> > > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
> one,
> > > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
> damage?
> > > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
> backlash.
> > > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
> have
> > > now.
> > > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
> live
> > > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > > Steve g.
> > > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > > highway speeds.
> > > >
> > > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > > >
> > > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > > >
> > > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > > >
> > > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > > >
> > > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Troy
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
once you start crushing the sleeve then you take a torq. reading with a inch
pound torq. wrench the spec is 24 in.(the amount of torq. the pinion yake starts
to move)
once that is done then you will need a dummy bearing kit to get the shims
correct for the case/carrier bearings with a bac lash of .008to .012
then watch the pattern on the ring gear to see if rides in the middle of the
gear when it does with the baclash spec met then you have a quiet rear axle as
long as no one uses the center pumpkin to jack it up and distort the case
Steve G wrote:
> Troy,
> You don't need to worry about your 250 lb torque wrench. Torque wrench is
> there for measuring the torque you're applying. You don't need to worry
> about how torque you're applying, you need to just reef on it until the
> sleeve crushes. If you're worried about damaging your torque wrench, use a
> straight bar. The torque wrench you need to worry about is the inch lb one
> that will measure the torque required to turn the pinion with the sleeve
> crushed. It sounds like you have all of the equipment necessary. There is
> a link in one of my posts to a Richmond Gear .pdf that has pretty detailed
> instructions. Sounds like all you need is the confidence. Go slowly,
> check your play on the pinion frequently and you'll be fine.
> Steve G.
> PS, in spite of what Bill has said, if you are not changing R & P just
> re-use all of the original shims in their original places and you will have
> pinion depth and backlash back to factory placement. If the gear set is
> worn you may need to re-shim the carrier to take up some excessive backlash,
> but assemble it first with the original shims, check the backlash and then
> make adjustment if necessary. If the gear set is worn enough to create the
> excessive backlash it will probably still be noisey, but re-adjusting
> backlash may take some of it out.
> Steve G.
> "TroyM" <NOleica3fSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:40FFC890.EA14B3F6@earthlink.net...
> > Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> > to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> > obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> > wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> > going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> > this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> > thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> > of you
> > can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> > whichever way I go.
> >
> > Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> > etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> > are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> > case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> > shop for fifty bucks.
> >
> > But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> > re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> > quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> > route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> > worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> > then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> > presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> > deal to do it all over again.
> >
> > Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> > have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
> >
> > Troy
> >
> > Steve G wrote:
> > >
> > > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
> is
> > > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
> be
> > > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
> In
> > > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
> sleeve
> > > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
> inch-lb
> > > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
> Go
> > > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
> one,
> > > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
> damage?
> > > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
> backlash.
> > > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
> have
> > > now.
> > > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
> live
> > > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > > Steve g.
> > > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > > highway speeds.
> > > >
> > > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > > >
> > > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > > >
> > > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > > >
> > > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > > >
> > > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Troy
pound torq. wrench the spec is 24 in.(the amount of torq. the pinion yake starts
to move)
once that is done then you will need a dummy bearing kit to get the shims
correct for the case/carrier bearings with a bac lash of .008to .012
then watch the pattern on the ring gear to see if rides in the middle of the
gear when it does with the baclash spec met then you have a quiet rear axle as
long as no one uses the center pumpkin to jack it up and distort the case
Steve G wrote:
> Troy,
> You don't need to worry about your 250 lb torque wrench. Torque wrench is
> there for measuring the torque you're applying. You don't need to worry
> about how torque you're applying, you need to just reef on it until the
> sleeve crushes. If you're worried about damaging your torque wrench, use a
> straight bar. The torque wrench you need to worry about is the inch lb one
> that will measure the torque required to turn the pinion with the sleeve
> crushed. It sounds like you have all of the equipment necessary. There is
> a link in one of my posts to a Richmond Gear .pdf that has pretty detailed
> instructions. Sounds like all you need is the confidence. Go slowly,
> check your play on the pinion frequently and you'll be fine.
> Steve G.
> PS, in spite of what Bill has said, if you are not changing R & P just
> re-use all of the original shims in their original places and you will have
> pinion depth and backlash back to factory placement. If the gear set is
> worn you may need to re-shim the carrier to take up some excessive backlash,
> but assemble it first with the original shims, check the backlash and then
> make adjustment if necessary. If the gear set is worn enough to create the
> excessive backlash it will probably still be noisey, but re-adjusting
> backlash may take some of it out.
> Steve G.
> "TroyM" <NOleica3fSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:40FFC890.EA14B3F6@earthlink.net...
> > Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> > to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> > obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> > wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> > going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> > this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> > thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> > of you
> > can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> > whichever way I go.
> >
> > Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> > etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> > are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> > case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> > shop for fifty bucks.
> >
> > But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> > re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> > quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> > route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> > worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> > then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> > presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> > deal to do it all over again.
> >
> > Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> > have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
> >
> > Troy
> >
> > Steve G wrote:
> > >
> > > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
> is
> > > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
> be
> > > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
> In
> > > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
> sleeve
> > > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
> inch-lb
> > > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
> Go
> > > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
> one,
> > > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
> damage?
> > > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
> backlash.
> > > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
> have
> > > now.
> > > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
> live
> > > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > > Steve g.
> > > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > > highway speeds.
> > > >
> > > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > > >
> > > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > > >
> > > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > > >
> > > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > > >
> > > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Troy
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
once you start crushing the sleeve then you take a torq. reading with a inch
pound torq. wrench the spec is 24 in.(the amount of torq. the pinion yake starts
to move)
once that is done then you will need a dummy bearing kit to get the shims
correct for the case/carrier bearings with a bac lash of .008to .012
then watch the pattern on the ring gear to see if rides in the middle of the
gear when it does with the baclash spec met then you have a quiet rear axle as
long as no one uses the center pumpkin to jack it up and distort the case
Steve G wrote:
> Troy,
> You don't need to worry about your 250 lb torque wrench. Torque wrench is
> there for measuring the torque you're applying. You don't need to worry
> about how torque you're applying, you need to just reef on it until the
> sleeve crushes. If you're worried about damaging your torque wrench, use a
> straight bar. The torque wrench you need to worry about is the inch lb one
> that will measure the torque required to turn the pinion with the sleeve
> crushed. It sounds like you have all of the equipment necessary. There is
> a link in one of my posts to a Richmond Gear .pdf that has pretty detailed
> instructions. Sounds like all you need is the confidence. Go slowly,
> check your play on the pinion frequently and you'll be fine.
> Steve G.
> PS, in spite of what Bill has said, if you are not changing R & P just
> re-use all of the original shims in their original places and you will have
> pinion depth and backlash back to factory placement. If the gear set is
> worn you may need to re-shim the carrier to take up some excessive backlash,
> but assemble it first with the original shims, check the backlash and then
> make adjustment if necessary. If the gear set is worn enough to create the
> excessive backlash it will probably still be noisey, but re-adjusting
> backlash may take some of it out.
> Steve G.
> "TroyM" <NOleica3fSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:40FFC890.EA14B3F6@earthlink.net...
> > Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> > to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> > obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> > wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> > going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> > this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> > thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> > of you
> > can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> > whichever way I go.
> >
> > Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> > etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> > are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> > case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> > shop for fifty bucks.
> >
> > But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> > re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> > quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> > route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> > worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> > then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> > presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> > deal to do it all over again.
> >
> > Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> > have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
> >
> > Troy
> >
> > Steve G wrote:
> > >
> > > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
> is
> > > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
> be
> > > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
> In
> > > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
> sleeve
> > > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
> inch-lb
> > > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
> Go
> > > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
> one,
> > > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
> damage?
> > > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
> backlash.
> > > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
> have
> > > now.
> > > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
> live
> > > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > > Steve g.
> > > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > > highway speeds.
> > > >
> > > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > > >
> > > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > > >
> > > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > > >
> > > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > > >
> > > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Troy
pound torq. wrench the spec is 24 in.(the amount of torq. the pinion yake starts
to move)
once that is done then you will need a dummy bearing kit to get the shims
correct for the case/carrier bearings with a bac lash of .008to .012
then watch the pattern on the ring gear to see if rides in the middle of the
gear when it does with the baclash spec met then you have a quiet rear axle as
long as no one uses the center pumpkin to jack it up and distort the case
Steve G wrote:
> Troy,
> You don't need to worry about your 250 lb torque wrench. Torque wrench is
> there for measuring the torque you're applying. You don't need to worry
> about how torque you're applying, you need to just reef on it until the
> sleeve crushes. If you're worried about damaging your torque wrench, use a
> straight bar. The torque wrench you need to worry about is the inch lb one
> that will measure the torque required to turn the pinion with the sleeve
> crushed. It sounds like you have all of the equipment necessary. There is
> a link in one of my posts to a Richmond Gear .pdf that has pretty detailed
> instructions. Sounds like all you need is the confidence. Go slowly,
> check your play on the pinion frequently and you'll be fine.
> Steve G.
> PS, in spite of what Bill has said, if you are not changing R & P just
> re-use all of the original shims in their original places and you will have
> pinion depth and backlash back to factory placement. If the gear set is
> worn you may need to re-shim the carrier to take up some excessive backlash,
> but assemble it first with the original shims, check the backlash and then
> make adjustment if necessary. If the gear set is worn enough to create the
> excessive backlash it will probably still be noisey, but re-adjusting
> backlash may take some of it out.
> Steve G.
> "TroyM" <NOleica3fSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:40FFC890.EA14B3F6@earthlink.net...
> > Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> > to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> > obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> > wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> > going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> > this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> > thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> > of you
> > can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> > whichever way I go.
> >
> > Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> > etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> > are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> > case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> > shop for fifty bucks.
> >
> > But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> > re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> > quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> > route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> > worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> > then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> > presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> > deal to do it all over again.
> >
> > Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> > have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
> >
> > Troy
> >
> > Steve G wrote:
> > >
> > > The role of the crush sleeve has not to do with the ring and pinion, it
> is
> > > there to assist is establishing the pre-load on the bearings, which will
> be
> > > new in your case. The crush sleeve is only a couple of bucks and is not
> > > rocket science to install properly. Why would you hesitate? Make sure
> > > you're following the procedure in your manual and go about it slowly.
> In
> > > most cases you install the pinion into the housing and adjust bearing
> > > pre-load before you install the ring gear. Generally, you crush the
> sleeve
> > > until you just reach zero lash of the pinion. From there you use an
> inch-lb
> > > torque wrench and measure the amount of torque to turn the pinion. You
> > > crush the sleeve until you reach the req'd torque to turn the pinion.
> Go
> > > too far and you throw away that crush sleeve and start again.
> > > Bill is probably right about the ring and pinion. Noise apparent on
> > > acceleration and deceleration is usually ring and pinion tooth contact
> > > noise. Could be a pinion bearing, on acceleration would be the back
> one,
> > > deceleration would be the front one. What are the chances of those two
> > > bearings being simultaneously at fault, especially with no visible
> damage?
> > > If you're going to replace the ring and pinion, make sure you know what
> > > you're doing when it comes to setting pinion depth and ring gear
> backlash.
> > > Improper pinion depth will leave you with more noise than you prolly
> have
> > > now.
> > > Actually, if you can tolerate the noise, replace the bearings and
> live
> > > with it. The jeep will most likely die with the noise, not from it.
> > > Steve g.
> > > <gollee@ohmygosh.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40FEAA56.A92CE653@ohmygosh.net...
> > > > The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the
> > > > noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new
> > > > axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and
> > > > deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at
> > > > highway speeds.
> > > >
> > > > Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The
> > > > carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups
> > > > are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a
> > > > bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old
> > > > bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some
> > > > questions for the rearend experts.
> > > >
> > > > 1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken
> > > > teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of
> > > > overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need
> > > > replacing other than for these obvious clues??
> > > >
> > > > 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would
> > > > keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I
> > > > carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and
> > > > found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why
> > > > do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to
> > > > 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be
> > > > required to crush the new sleeve.
> > > >
> > > > 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head
> > > > and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except
> > > > they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put
> > > > these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old
> > > > bolts and the ring from the carrier???
> > > >
> > > > Any help will be much appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Troy
