Re: A case of death wobble today
 

Bill: READ MY PREVIOUS WORDS CAREFULLY

YOU are the one that suggested changing the stabilizer WITHOUT
checking for the underlying causes. In my mind, that is getting
close to advocating an unsafe fix for a dangerous problem.

Note that I did not say anything about not replacing a worn
stablizier only that advice about a stablizer should also include
advice/warning to check for the root cause.




L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:

> OK Roy, it's your job to follow me and tell them to remove the Steering
> Stabilizer, you don't need it.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for
>>every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a
>>while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the
>>NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to
>>REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or
>>tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some
>>front end work.

Re: A case of death wobble today
 

Roy, while under there replacing the stabilizer that you know he needs
because that's the only way one tire may transfer the shimmy to the the
other, you would naturally see anything else that needed replacing, or
do you wear a blindfold while work on your car?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Roy J wrote:
>
> Bill: READ MY PREVIOUS WORDS CAREFULLY
>
> YOU are the one that suggested changing the stabilizer WITHOUT
> checking for the underlying causes. In my mind, that is getting
> close to advocating an unsafe fix for a dangerous problem.
>
> Note that I did not say anything about not replacing a worn
> stablizier only that advice about a stablizer should also include
> advice/warning to check for the root cause.

Re: A case of death wobble today
 

Roy, while under there replacing the stabilizer that you know he needs
because that's the only way one tire may transfer the shimmy to the the
other, you would naturally see anything else that needed replacing, or
do you wear a blindfold while work on your car?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Roy J wrote:
>
> Bill: READ MY PREVIOUS WORDS CAREFULLY
>
> YOU are the one that suggested changing the stabilizer WITHOUT
> checking for the underlying causes. In my mind, that is getting
> close to advocating an unsafe fix for a dangerous problem.
>
> Note that I did not say anything about not replacing a worn
> stablizier only that advice about a stablizer should also include
> advice/warning to check for the root cause.

Re: A case of death wobble today
 

Roy, while under there replacing the stabilizer that you know he needs
because that's the only way one tire may transfer the shimmy to the the
other, you would naturally see anything else that needed replacing, or
do you wear a blindfold while work on your car?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Roy J wrote:
>
> Bill: READ MY PREVIOUS WORDS CAREFULLY
>
> YOU are the one that suggested changing the stabilizer WITHOUT
> checking for the underlying causes. In my mind, that is getting
> close to advocating an unsafe fix for a dangerous problem.
>
> Note that I did not say anything about not replacing a worn
> stablizier only that advice about a stablizer should also include
> advice/warning to check for the root cause.

Re: A case of death wobble today
 

It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else on the
front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new and
tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, drag
link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. I just
put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October.

I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. I'll have
the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if
needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that same
damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. If she
passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old steering
stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the drag
link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod instead
since it is "closer" to the steering.

Thanks for all the comments and info.

Terry
92YJ



"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net...
> Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for
> every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a
> while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the
> NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to
> REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or
> tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some
> front end work.
>
>
> I'll second that diagnosis.
>
> I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW
> experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the ball
> joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life.
>
> DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and it
> takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same direction.
During
> the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking for the
> front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where the
> first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then heads
> back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because it has
> decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral downward
from
> there.
>
> Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable in a
> leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but the idea
> is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it positions the
> spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment as much
> as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on your
YJ
> is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other issues.
Ball
> joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the one
that
> you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious
> consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the test
for
> a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the ground
and
> 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, and
2.)
> use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in either
> of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel back
and
> forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in the tie
> rod ends.
>
> If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the tie
rod
> ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing the
> steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball joints
> or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts and the
> steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only necessary
> (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball joints
> don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often.
>

Re: A case of death wobble today
 

It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else on the
front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new and
tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, drag
link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. I just
put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October.

I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. I'll have
the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if
needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that same
damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. If she
passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old steering
stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the drag
link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod instead
since it is "closer" to the steering.

Thanks for all the comments and info.

Terry
92YJ



"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net...
> Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for
> every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a
> while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the
> NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to
> REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or
> tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some
> front end work.
>
>
> I'll second that diagnosis.
>
> I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW
> experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the ball
> joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life.
>
> DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and it
> takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same direction.
During
> the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking for the
> front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where the
> first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then heads
> back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because it has
> decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral downward
from
> there.
>
> Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable in a
> leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but the idea
> is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it positions the
> spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment as much
> as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on your
YJ
> is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other issues.
Ball
> joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the one
that
> you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious
> consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the test
for
> a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the ground
and
> 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, and
2.)
> use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in either
> of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel back
and
> forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in the tie
> rod ends.
>
> If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the tie
rod
> ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing the
> steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball joints
> or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts and the
> steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only necessary
> (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball joints
> don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often.
>

Re: A case of death wobble today
 

It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else on the
front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new and
tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, drag
link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. I just
put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October.

I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. I'll have
the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if
needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that same
damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. If she
passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old steering
stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the drag
link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod instead
since it is "closer" to the steering.

Thanks for all the comments and info.

Terry
92YJ



"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net...
> Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for
> every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a
> while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the
> NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to
> REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or
> tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some
> front end work.
>
>
> I'll second that diagnosis.
>
> I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW
> experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the ball
> joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life.
>
> DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and it
> takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same direction.
During
> the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking for the
> front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where the
> first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then heads
> back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because it has
> decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral downward
from
> there.
>
> Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable in a
> leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but the idea
> is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it positions the
> spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment as much
> as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on your
YJ
> is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other issues.
Ball
> joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the one
that
> you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious
> consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the test
for
> a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the ground
and
> 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, and
2.)
> use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in either
> of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel back
and
> forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in the tie
> rod ends.
>
> If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the tie
rod
> ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing the
> steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball joints
> or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts and the
> steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only necessary
> (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball joints
> don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often.
>

Re: A case of death wobble today
 

Hi Terry,
I use an additional shock between the tie rod and the axle, like
pictured at: http://128.83.80.200/taco/steering.html Try to get your
alignment as close as possible to:
http://www.----------.com/CJalignment.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------


Terry Jeffrey wrote:
>
> It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else on the
> front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new and
> tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, drag
> link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. I just
> put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October.
>
> I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. I'll have
> the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if
> needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that same
> damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. If she
> passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old steering
> stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the drag
> link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod instead
> since it is "closer" to the steering.
>
> Thanks for all the comments and info.
>
> Terry
> 92YJ
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net...
> > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for
> > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a
> > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the
> > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to
> > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or
> > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some
> > front end work.
> >
> >
> > I'll second that diagnosis.
> >
> > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW
> > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the ball
> > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life.
> >
> > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and it
> > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same direction.
> During
> > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking for the
> > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where the
> > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then heads
> > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because it has
> > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral downward
> from
> > there.
> >
> > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable in a
> > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but the idea
> > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it positions the
> > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment as much
> > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on your
> YJ
> > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other issues.
> Ball
> > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the one
> that
> > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious
> > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the test
> for
> > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the ground
> and
> > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, and
> 2.)
> > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in either
> > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel back
> and
> > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in the tie
> > rod ends.
> >
> > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the tie
> rod
> > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing the
> > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball joints
> > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts and the
> > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only necessary
> > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball joints
> > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often.
> >

Re: A case of death wobble today
 

Hi Terry,
I use an additional shock between the tie rod and the axle, like
pictured at: http://128.83.80.200/taco/steering.html Try to get your
alignment as close as possible to:
http://www.----------.com/CJalignment.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------


Terry Jeffrey wrote:
>
> It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else on the
> front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new and
> tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, drag
> link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. I just
> put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October.
>
> I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. I'll have
> the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if
> needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that same
> damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. If she
> passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old steering
> stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the drag
> link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod instead
> since it is "closer" to the steering.
>
> Thanks for all the comments and info.
>
> Terry
> 92YJ
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net...
> > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for
> > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a
> > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the
> > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to
> > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or
> > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some
> > front end work.
> >
> >
> > I'll second that diagnosis.
> >
> > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW
> > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the ball
> > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life.
> >
> > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and it
> > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same direction.
> During
> > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking for the
> > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where the
> > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then heads
> > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because it has
> > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral downward
> from
> > there.
> >
> > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable in a
> > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but the idea
> > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it positions the
> > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment as much
> > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on your
> YJ
> > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other issues.
> Ball
> > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the one
> that
> > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious
> > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the test
> for
> > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the ground
> and
> > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, and
> 2.)
> > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in either
> > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel back
> and
> > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in the tie
> > rod ends.
> >
> > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the tie
> rod
> > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing the
> > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball joints
> > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts and the
> > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only necessary
> > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball joints
> > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often.
> >

Re: A case of death wobble today
 

Hi Terry,
I use an additional shock between the tie rod and the axle, like
pictured at: http://128.83.80.200/taco/steering.html Try to get your
alignment as close as possible to:
http://www.----------.com/CJalignment.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------


Terry Jeffrey wrote:
>
> It very well might be the steering stabilizer because everything else on the
> front is new. All the steering components and entire front end is new and
> tight and only has about 3,000 miles. Ball joints, tie rod & ends, drag
> link & ends, and steering arms are all new, freshly lubed and tight. I just
> put a Dynatrac D60 up front in October.
>
> I'll do the test you suggest anyway tonight and see what happens. I'll have
> the caster checked too at one of these local garages and shim it up if
> needed. I removed the track bar for now but still got the DW in that same
> damn bump again so I know it wasn't the track bar as first thought. If she
> passes the ball joint and tie rod tests then I'll focus on the old steering
> stabilizer. The stabilizer is currently mounted from the frame to the drag
> link. One fellow today suggested moving the mount to the tie rod instead
> since it is "closer" to the steering.
>
> Thanks for all the comments and info.
>
> Terry
> 92YJ
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:103cffo5nl9i178@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> > "Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> > news:ttpZb.6$DV3.10262@news.uswest.net...
> > Bill, Ya gotta quit suggesting "replace steering stabilzier" for
> > every case of DW. Sure, replacing it might fix the problem for a
> > while but the underlying condition will just get worse, make the
> > NEXT DW more serious. The OP has a loose track bar and wants to
> > REMOVE it? I'll make bets that he also has a loose ball joint or
> > tie rod end. The '92 YJ has 12 years on it, about due for some
> > front end work.
> >
> >
> > I'll second that diagnosis.
> >
> > I have a leaf spring suspension, and I have no trackbar and no DW
> > experiences. I am about due for some DW though because I suspect the ball
> > joints are worn and I know the tie rods are near end-life.
> >
> > DW is caused because one tire gets pushed off of straight ahead, and it
> > takes a while for the other tire to aim itself in the same direction.
> During
> > the delay, the first tire regains its composure and starts looking for the
> > front again, in the mean time the other tire has cought up to where the
> > first tire was a second ago but isn't anymore. The second tire then heads
> > back to the front, but the first tire is not there anymore because it has
> > decided to go to where the other tire just left. Things spiral downward
> from
> > there.
> >
> > Caster Angle plays a large role in DW, but caster is not adjustable in a
> > leaf spring front end. (Yes, caster can be adjusted by shims, but the idea
> > is that the axle builder sets the caster angle by the way it positions the
> > spring perches, and the angle normally does not require adjustment as much
> > as it might in a coil spring set up.) I suspect the caster angle on your
> YJ
> > is probably fine, so it is time to move on to some of the other issues.
> Ball
> > joints and tie rods should be checked. The Lower Ball Joint is the one
> that
> > you will most likely need to replace, and you should give serious
> > consideration to replacing both of them even if only one passes the test
> for
> > a failure item. To test for failure, raise the front tire off the ground
> and
> > 1.) try to move it by pushing and pulling at the top and the bottom, and
> 2.)
> > use a lever to lift the tire. The tire under test ought not move in either
> > of these tests. You need a buddy to GENTLY turn the steering wheel back
> and
> > forth as you look at each tie rod end. There should be no play in the tie
> > rod ends.
> >
> > If the tires (both) pass both of the ball joint tests and all of the tie
> rod
> > ends pass the tie rod tests, THEN you can get away with replacing the
> > steering stabalizer as the only repair activity. If any of the ball joints
> > or tie rods fail its respective test, then replace all like-parts and the
> > steering stabalizer. In the case of the ball joints, it is only necessary
> > (MOST OF THE TIME) to replace the lower ball joints. The upper ball joints
> > don't carry any weight, so they do not go out very often.
> >