Don't know if this went through the first time...

Hey Mike,
I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.

I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
as I can.

The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
pull, clean and regap them.


Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>
> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
> them out. You don't mention that,...
>
> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>
>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>
> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>
> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
> directions imply.
>
>>
>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>> ground is screwed up?
>
> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>
>>
>> Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
>> the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better able
>> to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't have
>> to bother you.
>
> No problem, it is good to understand why things get tested the way they do.
>
> One thing to be aware of is the timing light you used to test for spark
> can and will lie to you if there isn't gas which is why I ask about test
> lights or meters instead.
>
>>
>> As always, thanks a lot.
>
> You are welcome.
>
> Mike
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has started
>>> an amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially rust belt
>>> ones...
>>>
>>> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit the
>>> throttle!
>>>
>>> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a 258
>>> engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for one
>>> of many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the timing
>>> light I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>>>
>>> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad idle
>>> and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the damn
>>> carb had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common and
>>> easy to fix.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely
>>>> not true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of
>>>> course, it's been sitting for three years.
>>>>
>>>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>>>
>>>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>>>
>>>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike

 

There might be no fuel in the tank or the gas filter might be on upside
down or the gas has just evaporated.... They do not prime up easily!

The gas filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and the
top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't up top, gas
syphons back to the tank when it sits making cold stars a bugger.

Meanwhile I would try a few small shots of gas down the carb to see if
it will fire and prime up.

Mike


The Merg wrote:
> Don't know if this went through the first time...
>
> Hey Mike,
> I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.
>
> I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
> cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
> as I can.
>
> The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
> pull, clean and regap them.
>
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If
>> you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there
>>> a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>> the directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>>>
>>> Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
>>> the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better
>>> able to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't
>>> have to bother you.
>>
>> No problem, it is good to understand why things get tested the way
>> they do.
>>
>> One thing to be aware of is the timing light you used to test for
>> spark can and will lie to you if there isn't gas which is why I ask
>> about test lights or meters instead.
>>
>>>
>>> As always, thanks a lot.
>>
>> You are welcome.
>>
>> Mike
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has
>>>> started an amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially
>>>> rust belt ones...
>>>>
>>>> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit
>>>> the throttle!
>>>>
>>>> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a
>>>> 258 engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for
>>>> one of many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the
>>>> timing light I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>>>>
>>>> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad
>>>> idle and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the
>>>> damn carb had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common
>>>> and easy to fix.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely
>>>>> not true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of
>>>>> course, it's been sitting for three years.
>>>>>
>>>>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>>>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike

 

There might be no fuel in the tank or the gas filter might be on upside
down or the gas has just evaporated.... They do not prime up easily!

The gas filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and the
top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't up top, gas
syphons back to the tank when it sits making cold stars a bugger.

Meanwhile I would try a few small shots of gas down the carb to see if
it will fire and prime up.

Mike


The Merg wrote:
> Don't know if this went through the first time...
>
> Hey Mike,
> I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.
>
> I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
> cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
> as I can.
>
> The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
> pull, clean and regap them.
>
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If
>> you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there
>>> a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>> the directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>>>
>>> Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
>>> the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better
>>> able to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't
>>> have to bother you.
>>
>> No problem, it is good to understand why things get tested the way
>> they do.
>>
>> One thing to be aware of is the timing light you used to test for
>> spark can and will lie to you if there isn't gas which is why I ask
>> about test lights or meters instead.
>>
>>>
>>> As always, thanks a lot.
>>
>> You are welcome.
>>
>> Mike
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has
>>>> started an amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially
>>>> rust belt ones...
>>>>
>>>> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit
>>>> the throttle!
>>>>
>>>> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a
>>>> 258 engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for
>>>> one of many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the
>>>> timing light I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>>>>
>>>> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad
>>>> idle and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the
>>>> damn carb had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common
>>>> and easy to fix.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely
>>>>> not true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of
>>>>> course, it's been sitting for three years.
>>>>>
>>>>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>>>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike

 

There might be no fuel in the tank or the gas filter might be on upside
down or the gas has just evaporated.... They do not prime up easily!

The gas filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and the
top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't up top, gas
syphons back to the tank when it sits making cold stars a bugger.

Meanwhile I would try a few small shots of gas down the carb to see if
it will fire and prime up.

Mike


The Merg wrote:
> Don't know if this went through the first time...
>
> Hey Mike,
> I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.
>
> I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
> cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
> as I can.
>
> The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
> pull, clean and regap them.
>
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If
>> you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there
>>> a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>> the directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>>>
>>> Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
>>> the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better
>>> able to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't
>>> have to bother you.
>>
>> No problem, it is good to understand why things get tested the way
>> they do.
>>
>> One thing to be aware of is the timing light you used to test for
>> spark can and will lie to you if there isn't gas which is why I ask
>> about test lights or meters instead.
>>
>>>
>>> As always, thanks a lot.
>>
>> You are welcome.
>>
>> Mike
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has
>>>> started an amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially
>>>> rust belt ones...
>>>>
>>>> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit
>>>> the throttle!
>>>>
>>>> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a
>>>> 258 engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for
>>>> one of many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the
>>>> timing light I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>>>>
>>>> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad
>>>> idle and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the
>>>> damn carb had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common
>>>> and easy to fix.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely
>>>>> not true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of
>>>>> course, it's been sitting for three years.
>>>>>
>>>>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>>>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike

 

There might be no fuel in the tank or the gas filter might be on upside
down or the gas has just evaporated.... They do not prime up easily!

The gas filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and the
top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't up top, gas
syphons back to the tank when it sits making cold stars a bugger.

Meanwhile I would try a few small shots of gas down the carb to see if
it will fire and prime up.

Mike


The Merg wrote:
> Don't know if this went through the first time...
>
> Hey Mike,
> I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.
>
> I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
> cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
> as I can.
>
> The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
> pull, clean and regap them.
>
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If
>> you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there
>>> a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>> the directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>>
>>>
>>> Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
>>> the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better
>>> able to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't
>>> have to bother you.
>>
>> No problem, it is good to understand why things get tested the way
>> they do.
>>
>> One thing to be aware of is the timing light you used to test for
>> spark can and will lie to you if there isn't gas which is why I ask
>> about test lights or meters instead.
>>
>>>
>>> As always, thanks a lot.
>>
>> You are welcome.
>>
>> Mike
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has
>>>> started an amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially
>>>> rust belt ones...
>>>>
>>>> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit
>>>> the throttle!
>>>>
>>>> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a
>>>> 258 engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for
>>>> one of many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the
>>>> timing light I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>>>>
>>>> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad
>>>> idle and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the
>>>> damn carb had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common
>>>> and easy to fix.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely
>>>>> not true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of
>>>>> course, it's been sitting for three years.
>>>>>
>>>>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>>>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike

 

My pops put a few gallons in before we tried starting it, but it
wouldn't hurt to get some more in there, I think.

I won't be able to do anything tomorrow - probably not until the
weekend, actually, but I'll let you know how things go.
Hopefully I'll have gotten new plugs and wires by then, too.
btw, while I'm replacing the plugs and wires, would it be a good idea to
go ahead and replace the coil too?

Mike Romain wrote:
> There might be no fuel in the tank or the gas filter might be on upside
> down or the gas has just evaporated.... They do not prime up easily!
>
> The gas filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and the
> top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't up top, gas
> syphons back to the tank when it sits making cold stars a bugger.
>
> Meanwhile I would try a few small shots of gas down the carb to see if
> it will fire and prime up.
>
> Mike
>
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> Don't know if this went through the first time...
>>
>> Hey Mike,
>> I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.
>>
>> I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
>> cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
>> as I can.
>>
>> The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
>> pull, clean and regap them.

 

My pops put a few gallons in before we tried starting it, but it
wouldn't hurt to get some more in there, I think.

I won't be able to do anything tomorrow - probably not until the
weekend, actually, but I'll let you know how things go.
Hopefully I'll have gotten new plugs and wires by then, too.
btw, while I'm replacing the plugs and wires, would it be a good idea to
go ahead and replace the coil too?

Mike Romain wrote:
> There might be no fuel in the tank or the gas filter might be on upside
> down or the gas has just evaporated.... They do not prime up easily!
>
> The gas filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and the
> top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't up top, gas
> syphons back to the tank when it sits making cold stars a bugger.
>
> Meanwhile I would try a few small shots of gas down the carb to see if
> it will fire and prime up.
>
> Mike
>
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> Don't know if this went through the first time...
>>
>> Hey Mike,
>> I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.
>>
>> I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
>> cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
>> as I can.
>>
>> The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
>> pull, clean and regap them.

 

My pops put a few gallons in before we tried starting it, but it
wouldn't hurt to get some more in there, I think.

I won't be able to do anything tomorrow - probably not until the
weekend, actually, but I'll let you know how things go.
Hopefully I'll have gotten new plugs and wires by then, too.
btw, while I'm replacing the plugs and wires, would it be a good idea to
go ahead and replace the coil too?

Mike Romain wrote:
> There might be no fuel in the tank or the gas filter might be on upside
> down or the gas has just evaporated.... They do not prime up easily!
>
> The gas filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and the
> top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't up top, gas
> syphons back to the tank when it sits making cold stars a bugger.
>
> Meanwhile I would try a few small shots of gas down the carb to see if
> it will fire and prime up.
>
> Mike
>
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> Don't know if this went through the first time...
>>
>> Hey Mike,
>> I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.
>>
>> I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
>> cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
>> as I can.
>>
>> The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
>> pull, clean and regap them.

 

My pops put a few gallons in before we tried starting it, but it
wouldn't hurt to get some more in there, I think.

I won't be able to do anything tomorrow - probably not until the
weekend, actually, but I'll let you know how things go.
Hopefully I'll have gotten new plugs and wires by then, too.
btw, while I'm replacing the plugs and wires, would it be a good idea to
go ahead and replace the coil too?

Mike Romain wrote:
> There might be no fuel in the tank or the gas filter might be on upside
> down or the gas has just evaporated.... They do not prime up easily!
>
> The gas filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and the
> top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't up top, gas
> syphons back to the tank when it sits making cold stars a bugger.
>
> Meanwhile I would try a few small shots of gas down the carb to see if
> it will fire and prime up.
>
> Mike
>
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> Don't know if this went through the first time...
>>
>> Hey Mike,
>> I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.
>>
>> I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
>> cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
>> as I can.
>>
>> The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
>> pull, clean and regap them.

 

I don't remember if you already did this, but add a cap, rotor, and plug
wires to the list - if it sat that long you'll need them shortly anyway.

On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 22:54:36 -0500, The Merg wrote:

> My pops put a few gallons in before we tried starting it, but it
> wouldn't hurt to get some more in there, I think.
>
> I won't be able to do anything tomorrow - probably not until the
> weekend, actually, but I'll let you know how things go.
> Hopefully I'll have gotten new plugs and wires by then, too.
> btw, while I'm replacing the plugs and wires, would it be a good idea to
> go ahead and replace the coil too?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> There might be no fuel in the tank or the gas filter might be on upside
>> down or the gas has just evaporated.... They do not prime up easily!
>>
>> The gas filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and the
>> top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't up top, gas
>> syphons back to the tank when it sits making cold stars a bugger.
>>
>> Meanwhile I would try a few small shots of gas down the carb to see if
>> it will fire and prime up.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> Don't know if this went through the first time...
>>>
>>> Hey Mike,
>>> I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.
>>>
>>> I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
>>> cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
>>> as I can.
>>>
>>> The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
>>> pull, clean and regap them.



--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>