The Merg

I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)

With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
ground is screwed up?

Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better able
to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't have to
bother you.

As always, thanks a lot.

Mike Romain wrote:
> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has started an
> amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially rust belt ones...
>
> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit the
> throttle!
>
> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a 258
> engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for one of
> many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the timing light
> I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>
> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad idle
> and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the damn carb
> had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common and easy to fix.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely not
>> true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of course,
>> it's been sitting for three years.
>>
>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>
>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>
>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>
>>> Mike

The Merg

I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)

With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
ground is screwed up?

Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better able
to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't have to
bother you.

As always, thanks a lot.

Mike Romain wrote:
> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has started an
> amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially rust belt ones...
>
> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit the
> throttle!
>
> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a 258
> engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for one of
> many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the timing light
> I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>
> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad idle
> and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the damn carb
> had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common and easy to fix.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely not
>> true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of course,
>> it's been sitting for three years.
>>
>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>
>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>
>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>
>>> Mike

The Merg

I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)

With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
ground is screwed up?

Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better able
to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't have to
bother you.

As always, thanks a lot.

Mike Romain wrote:
> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has started an
> amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially rust belt ones...
>
> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit the
> throttle!
>
> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a 258
> engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for one of
> many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the timing light
> I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>
> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad idle
> and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the damn carb
> had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common and easy to fix.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely not
>> true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of course,
>> it's been sitting for three years.
>>
>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>
>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>
>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>
>>> Mike

Mike Romain

The Merg wrote:
> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?

Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
them out. You don't mention that,...

Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.

> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)

TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.

A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
directions imply.

>
> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
> ground is screwed up?

That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.

>
> Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
> the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better able
> to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't have to
> bother you.

No problem, it is good to understand why things get tested the way they do.

One thing to be aware of is the timing light you used to test for spark
can and will lie to you if there isn't gas which is why I ask about test
lights or meters instead.

>
> As always, thanks a lot.

You are welcome.

Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has started
>> an amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially rust belt
>> ones...
>>
>> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit the
>> throttle!
>>
>> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a 258
>> engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for one of
>> many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the timing
>> light I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>>
>> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad idle
>> and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the damn
>> carb had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common and
>> easy to fix.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely
>>> not true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of
>>> course, it's been sitting for three years.
>>>
>>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>>
>>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>>
>>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>>
>>>> Mike

Mike Romain

The Merg wrote:
> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?

Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
them out. You don't mention that,...

Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.

> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)

TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.

A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
directions imply.

>
> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
> ground is screwed up?

That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.

>
> Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
> the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better able
> to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't have to
> bother you.

No problem, it is good to understand why things get tested the way they do.

One thing to be aware of is the timing light you used to test for spark
can and will lie to you if there isn't gas which is why I ask about test
lights or meters instead.

>
> As always, thanks a lot.

You are welcome.

Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has started
>> an amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially rust belt
>> ones...
>>
>> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit the
>> throttle!
>>
>> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a 258
>> engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for one of
>> many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the timing
>> light I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>>
>> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad idle
>> and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the damn
>> carb had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common and
>> easy to fix.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely
>>> not true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of
>>> course, it's been sitting for three years.
>>>
>>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>>
>>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>>
>>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>>
>>>> Mike

Mike Romain

The Merg wrote:
> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?

Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
them out. You don't mention that,...

Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.

> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)

TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.

A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
directions imply.

>
> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
> ground is screwed up?

That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.

>
> Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
> the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better able
> to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't have to
> bother you.

No problem, it is good to understand why things get tested the way they do.

One thing to be aware of is the timing light you used to test for spark
can and will lie to you if there isn't gas which is why I ask about test
lights or meters instead.

>
> As always, thanks a lot.

You are welcome.

Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has started
>> an amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially rust belt
>> ones...
>>
>> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit the
>> throttle!
>>
>> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a 258
>> engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for one of
>> many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the timing
>> light I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>>
>> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad idle
>> and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the damn
>> carb had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common and
>> easy to fix.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely
>>> not true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of
>>> course, it's been sitting for three years.
>>>
>>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>>
>>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>>
>>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>>
>>>> Mike

Mike Romain

The Merg wrote:
> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?

Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
them out. You don't mention that,...

Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.

> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)

TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.

A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
directions imply.

>
> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
> ground is screwed up?

That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.

>
> Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
> the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better able
> to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't have to
> bother you.

No problem, it is good to understand why things get tested the way they do.

One thing to be aware of is the timing light you used to test for spark
can and will lie to you if there isn't gas which is why I ask about test
lights or meters instead.

>
> As always, thanks a lot.

You are welcome.

Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has started
>> an amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially rust belt
>> ones...
>>
>> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit the
>> throttle!
>>
>> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a 258
>> engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for one of
>> many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the timing
>> light I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>>
>> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad idle
>> and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the damn
>> carb had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common and
>> easy to fix.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely
>>> not true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of
>>> course, it's been sitting for three years.
>>>
>>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>>
>>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>>
>>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>>
>>>> Mike

The Merg

Don't know if this went through the first time...

Hey Mike,
I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.

I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
as I can.

The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
pull, clean and regap them.


Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>
> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
> them out. You don't mention that,...
>
> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>
>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>
> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>
> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
> directions imply.
>
>>
>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>> ground is screwed up?
>
> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>
>>
>> Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
>> the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better able
>> to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't have
>> to bother you.
>
> No problem, it is good to understand why things get tested the way they do.
>
> One thing to be aware of is the timing light you used to test for spark
> can and will lie to you if there isn't gas which is why I ask about test
> lights or meters instead.
>
>>
>> As always, thanks a lot.
>
> You are welcome.
>
> Mike
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has started
>>> an amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially rust belt
>>> ones...
>>>
>>> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit the
>>> throttle!
>>>
>>> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a 258
>>> engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for one
>>> of many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the timing
>>> light I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>>>
>>> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad idle
>>> and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the damn
>>> carb had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common and
>>> easy to fix.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely
>>>> not true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of
>>>> course, it's been sitting for three years.
>>>>
>>>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>>>
>>>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>>>
>>>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike

The Merg

Don't know if this went through the first time...

Hey Mike,
I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.

I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
as I can.

The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
pull, clean and regap them.


Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>
> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
> them out. You don't mention that,...
>
> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>
>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>
> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>
> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
> directions imply.
>
>>
>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>> ground is screwed up?
>
> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>
>>
>> Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
>> the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better able
>> to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't have
>> to bother you.
>
> No problem, it is good to understand why things get tested the way they do.
>
> One thing to be aware of is the timing light you used to test for spark
> can and will lie to you if there isn't gas which is why I ask about test
> lights or meters instead.
>
>>
>> As always, thanks a lot.
>
> You are welcome.
>
> Mike
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has started
>>> an amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially rust belt
>>> ones...
>>>
>>> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit the
>>> throttle!
>>>
>>> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a 258
>>> engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for one
>>> of many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the timing
>>> light I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>>>
>>> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad idle
>>> and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the damn
>>> carb had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common and
>>> easy to fix.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely
>>>> not true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of
>>>> course, it's been sitting for three years.
>>>>
>>>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>>>
>>>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>>>
>>>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike

The Merg

Don't know if this went through the first time...

Hey Mike,
I just checked and...you were right. No fuel flow in the carb.

I wasn't sure if there was a legitimate difference between carb and tb
cleaner or just a nominal one - I'll pick up some carb cleaner as soon
as I can.

The sparks aren't in the best shape, and will be replaced, but we did
pull, clean and regap them.


Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>
> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
> them out. You don't mention that,...
>
> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>
>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>
> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>
> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
> directions imply.
>
>>
>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>> ground is screwed up?
>
> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.
>
>>
>> Sorry for so many questions for explanations, but if I can understand
>> the theory behind what you're telling me to check, I'll be better able
>> to make sure I'm doing everything right - and next time, I won't have
>> to bother you.
>
> No problem, it is good to understand why things get tested the way they do.
>
> One thing to be aware of is the timing light you used to test for spark
> can and will lie to you if there isn't gas which is why I ask about test
> lights or meters instead.
>
>>
>> As always, thanks a lot.
>
> You are welcome.
>
> Mike
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> Cool, try the booster cable to the body test anyway, that has started
>>> an amazing number of vehicles that I know of, especially rust belt
>>> ones...
>>>
>>> You also need to verify those gas jets into the carb when you hit the
>>> throttle!
>>>
>>> An induction timing light can 'Really' lie and show no flash if a 258
>>> engine isn't getting gas. It is strange but very true. I, for one
>>> of many have chased spark parts all over only to find out the timing
>>> light I used as a benchmark wouldn't light with no gas present.
>>>
>>> Had one with no light flash on cylinder 1 to 3 with a really bad idle
>>> and after swapping 'every' electrical part we figured out the damn
>>> carb had a blocked idle tube, which by the way is really common and
>>> easy to fix.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> The PO told us that the starter had died. This is most definitely
>>>> not true, so it's kinda hard to believe anything he told us. Of
>>>> course, it's been sitting for three years.
>>>>
>>>> My pop's home, it appears that we do indeed have a multimeter.
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?
>>>>>
>>>>> I am more inclined to think dirty connection.
>>>>>
>>>>> I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
>>>>> negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike