'88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
#121
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 13:38:41 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Unfortunately that oil treatment won't work for the OP or anyone who off
>roads because we have to clean the undersides and frames to get the mud
>and sand out or oil or no oil, that sand pack will rot things.
Actually it will because when you see rust start to appear you can
treat it plus water with not wash it off and it will take a few trips
through mud to wash it out. Gear oil is tuff to wash off.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>Unfortunately that oil treatment won't work for the OP or anyone who off
>roads because we have to clean the undersides and frames to get the mud
>and sand out or oil or no oil, that sand pack will rot things.
Actually it will because when you see rust start to appear you can
treat it plus water with not wash it off and it will take a few trips
through mud to wash it out. Gear oil is tuff to wash off.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
#122
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 13:38:41 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Unfortunately that oil treatment won't work for the OP or anyone who off
>roads because we have to clean the undersides and frames to get the mud
>and sand out or oil or no oil, that sand pack will rot things.
Actually it will because when you see rust start to appear you can
treat it plus water with not wash it off and it will take a few trips
through mud to wash it out. Gear oil is tuff to wash off.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>Unfortunately that oil treatment won't work for the OP or anyone who off
>roads because we have to clean the undersides and frames to get the mud
>and sand out or oil or no oil, that sand pack will rot things.
Actually it will because when you see rust start to appear you can
treat it plus water with not wash it off and it will take a few trips
through mud to wash it out. Gear oil is tuff to wash off.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
#123
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
SnoMan wrote:
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 13:38:41 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately that oil treatment won't work for the OP or anyone who off
>> roads because we have to clean the undersides and frames to get the mud
>> and sand out or oil or no oil, that sand pack will rot things.
>
>
> Actually it will because when you see rust start to appear you can
> treat it plus water with not wash it off and it will take a few trips
> through mud to wash it out. Gear oil is tuff to wash off.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
It 'still' won't work because we have to clean under our vehicles.
When you put a spray washer to those oil soaked parts and now oil soaked
sand or mud pack, the oil will wash out with it and make a really bad
environmental mess in the driveway and out in the street where it drains
every weekend. The government around here would freak on you and yes,
the neighbors 'would' call to complain.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 13:38:41 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately that oil treatment won't work for the OP or anyone who off
>> roads because we have to clean the undersides and frames to get the mud
>> and sand out or oil or no oil, that sand pack will rot things.
>
>
> Actually it will because when you see rust start to appear you can
> treat it plus water with not wash it off and it will take a few trips
> through mud to wash it out. Gear oil is tuff to wash off.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
It 'still' won't work because we have to clean under our vehicles.
When you put a spray washer to those oil soaked parts and now oil soaked
sand or mud pack, the oil will wash out with it and make a really bad
environmental mess in the driveway and out in the street where it drains
every weekend. The government around here would freak on you and yes,
the neighbors 'would' call to complain.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
#124
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
SnoMan wrote:
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 13:38:41 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately that oil treatment won't work for the OP or anyone who off
>> roads because we have to clean the undersides and frames to get the mud
>> and sand out or oil or no oil, that sand pack will rot things.
>
>
> Actually it will because when you see rust start to appear you can
> treat it plus water with not wash it off and it will take a few trips
> through mud to wash it out. Gear oil is tuff to wash off.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
It 'still' won't work because we have to clean under our vehicles.
When you put a spray washer to those oil soaked parts and now oil soaked
sand or mud pack, the oil will wash out with it and make a really bad
environmental mess in the driveway and out in the street where it drains
every weekend. The government around here would freak on you and yes,
the neighbors 'would' call to complain.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 13:38:41 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately that oil treatment won't work for the OP or anyone who off
>> roads because we have to clean the undersides and frames to get the mud
>> and sand out or oil or no oil, that sand pack will rot things.
>
>
> Actually it will because when you see rust start to appear you can
> treat it plus water with not wash it off and it will take a few trips
> through mud to wash it out. Gear oil is tuff to wash off.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
It 'still' won't work because we have to clean under our vehicles.
When you put a spray washer to those oil soaked parts and now oil soaked
sand or mud pack, the oil will wash out with it and make a really bad
environmental mess in the driveway and out in the street where it drains
every weekend. The government around here would freak on you and yes,
the neighbors 'would' call to complain.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
#125
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
SnoMan wrote:
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 13:38:41 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately that oil treatment won't work for the OP or anyone who off
>> roads because we have to clean the undersides and frames to get the mud
>> and sand out or oil or no oil, that sand pack will rot things.
>
>
> Actually it will because when you see rust start to appear you can
> treat it plus water with not wash it off and it will take a few trips
> through mud to wash it out. Gear oil is tuff to wash off.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
It 'still' won't work because we have to clean under our vehicles.
When you put a spray washer to those oil soaked parts and now oil soaked
sand or mud pack, the oil will wash out with it and make a really bad
environmental mess in the driveway and out in the street where it drains
every weekend. The government around here would freak on you and yes,
the neighbors 'would' call to complain.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 13:38:41 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately that oil treatment won't work for the OP or anyone who off
>> roads because we have to clean the undersides and frames to get the mud
>> and sand out or oil or no oil, that sand pack will rot things.
>
>
> Actually it will because when you see rust start to appear you can
> treat it plus water with not wash it off and it will take a few trips
> through mud to wash it out. Gear oil is tuff to wash off.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
It 'still' won't work because we have to clean under our vehicles.
When you put a spray washer to those oil soaked parts and now oil soaked
sand or mud pack, the oil will wash out with it and make a really bad
environmental mess in the driveway and out in the street where it drains
every weekend. The government around here would freak on you and yes,
the neighbors 'would' call to complain.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
#126
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
SnoMan wrote:
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 13:38:41 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately that oil treatment won't work for the OP or anyone who off
>> roads because we have to clean the undersides and frames to get the mud
>> and sand out or oil or no oil, that sand pack will rot things.
>
>
> Actually it will because when you see rust start to appear you can
> treat it plus water with not wash it off and it will take a few trips
> through mud to wash it out. Gear oil is tuff to wash off.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
It 'still' won't work because we have to clean under our vehicles.
When you put a spray washer to those oil soaked parts and now oil soaked
sand or mud pack, the oil will wash out with it and make a really bad
environmental mess in the driveway and out in the street where it drains
every weekend. The government around here would freak on you and yes,
the neighbors 'would' call to complain.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 13:38:41 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately that oil treatment won't work for the OP or anyone who off
>> roads because we have to clean the undersides and frames to get the mud
>> and sand out or oil or no oil, that sand pack will rot things.
>
>
> Actually it will because when you see rust start to appear you can
> treat it plus water with not wash it off and it will take a few trips
> through mud to wash it out. Gear oil is tuff to wash off.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
It 'still' won't work because we have to clean under our vehicles.
When you put a spray washer to those oil soaked parts and now oil soaked
sand or mud pack, the oil will wash out with it and make a really bad
environmental mess in the driveway and out in the street where it drains
every weekend. The government around here would freak on you and yes,
the neighbors 'would' call to complain.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
#127
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Earle Horton wrote:
> I used to hear about "hot oil undercoating" when I lived in New England,
> but
> there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
> thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
> Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle, if you want to go to that extreme the simplest (and cheapest) way is
to use roofing tar or roofing cement. That was an old-timer's trick in the
the body shop trade in Texas. The tar contains enough distillates to
penetrate surface/light rust and heating it lets it wick into crevasses. My
two personal test cases: replaced the floor pans in an old Scout I bought
up in Wisc. and coated all the seams with roofing tar. Drove the heap for
10 years and had to re-coat the exposed surfaces every 3-4 years as the tar
sublimed but it stood the salt better than any of the near-by untreated
surfaces.
The acid test was a swamp cooler. The bottom was rusting through so I dried
it out, put a coat of roofing tar on the bottom pan. Sealed the leaks and
salvaged the cooler for another 12 years of service. Yeah, I'm cheap but
that tar does a great job for me. Of course, that doesn't get into the
mess factor of working with it - have lots of mineral spirits on hand!
--
Will Honea
> I used to hear about "hot oil undercoating" when I lived in New England,
> but
> there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
> thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
> Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle, if you want to go to that extreme the simplest (and cheapest) way is
to use roofing tar or roofing cement. That was an old-timer's trick in the
the body shop trade in Texas. The tar contains enough distillates to
penetrate surface/light rust and heating it lets it wick into crevasses. My
two personal test cases: replaced the floor pans in an old Scout I bought
up in Wisc. and coated all the seams with roofing tar. Drove the heap for
10 years and had to re-coat the exposed surfaces every 3-4 years as the tar
sublimed but it stood the salt better than any of the near-by untreated
surfaces.
The acid test was a swamp cooler. The bottom was rusting through so I dried
it out, put a coat of roofing tar on the bottom pan. Sealed the leaks and
salvaged the cooler for another 12 years of service. Yeah, I'm cheap but
that tar does a great job for me. Of course, that doesn't get into the
mess factor of working with it - have lots of mineral spirits on hand!
--
Will Honea
#128
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Earle Horton wrote:
> I used to hear about "hot oil undercoating" when I lived in New England,
> but
> there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
> thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
> Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle, if you want to go to that extreme the simplest (and cheapest) way is
to use roofing tar or roofing cement. That was an old-timer's trick in the
the body shop trade in Texas. The tar contains enough distillates to
penetrate surface/light rust and heating it lets it wick into crevasses. My
two personal test cases: replaced the floor pans in an old Scout I bought
up in Wisc. and coated all the seams with roofing tar. Drove the heap for
10 years and had to re-coat the exposed surfaces every 3-4 years as the tar
sublimed but it stood the salt better than any of the near-by untreated
surfaces.
The acid test was a swamp cooler. The bottom was rusting through so I dried
it out, put a coat of roofing tar on the bottom pan. Sealed the leaks and
salvaged the cooler for another 12 years of service. Yeah, I'm cheap but
that tar does a great job for me. Of course, that doesn't get into the
mess factor of working with it - have lots of mineral spirits on hand!
--
Will Honea
> I used to hear about "hot oil undercoating" when I lived in New England,
> but
> there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
> thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
> Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle, if you want to go to that extreme the simplest (and cheapest) way is
to use roofing tar or roofing cement. That was an old-timer's trick in the
the body shop trade in Texas. The tar contains enough distillates to
penetrate surface/light rust and heating it lets it wick into crevasses. My
two personal test cases: replaced the floor pans in an old Scout I bought
up in Wisc. and coated all the seams with roofing tar. Drove the heap for
10 years and had to re-coat the exposed surfaces every 3-4 years as the tar
sublimed but it stood the salt better than any of the near-by untreated
surfaces.
The acid test was a swamp cooler. The bottom was rusting through so I dried
it out, put a coat of roofing tar on the bottom pan. Sealed the leaks and
salvaged the cooler for another 12 years of service. Yeah, I'm cheap but
that tar does a great job for me. Of course, that doesn't get into the
mess factor of working with it - have lots of mineral spirits on hand!
--
Will Honea
#129
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Earle Horton wrote:
> I used to hear about "hot oil undercoating" when I lived in New England,
> but
> there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
> thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
> Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle, if you want to go to that extreme the simplest (and cheapest) way is
to use roofing tar or roofing cement. That was an old-timer's trick in the
the body shop trade in Texas. The tar contains enough distillates to
penetrate surface/light rust and heating it lets it wick into crevasses. My
two personal test cases: replaced the floor pans in an old Scout I bought
up in Wisc. and coated all the seams with roofing tar. Drove the heap for
10 years and had to re-coat the exposed surfaces every 3-4 years as the tar
sublimed but it stood the salt better than any of the near-by untreated
surfaces.
The acid test was a swamp cooler. The bottom was rusting through so I dried
it out, put a coat of roofing tar on the bottom pan. Sealed the leaks and
salvaged the cooler for another 12 years of service. Yeah, I'm cheap but
that tar does a great job for me. Of course, that doesn't get into the
mess factor of working with it - have lots of mineral spirits on hand!
--
Will Honea
> I used to hear about "hot oil undercoating" when I lived in New England,
> but
> there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
> thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
> Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle, if you want to go to that extreme the simplest (and cheapest) way is
to use roofing tar or roofing cement. That was an old-timer's trick in the
the body shop trade in Texas. The tar contains enough distillates to
penetrate surface/light rust and heating it lets it wick into crevasses. My
two personal test cases: replaced the floor pans in an old Scout I bought
up in Wisc. and coated all the seams with roofing tar. Drove the heap for
10 years and had to re-coat the exposed surfaces every 3-4 years as the tar
sublimed but it stood the salt better than any of the near-by untreated
surfaces.
The acid test was a swamp cooler. The bottom was rusting through so I dried
it out, put a coat of roofing tar on the bottom pan. Sealed the leaks and
salvaged the cooler for another 12 years of service. Yeah, I'm cheap but
that tar does a great job for me. Of course, that doesn't get into the
mess factor of working with it - have lots of mineral spirits on hand!
--
Will Honea
#130
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: '88 Grand Wagon frame rusted
Earle Horton wrote:
> I used to hear about "hot oil undercoating" when I lived in New England,
> but
> there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
> thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
> Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle, if you want to go to that extreme the simplest (and cheapest) way is
to use roofing tar or roofing cement. That was an old-timer's trick in the
the body shop trade in Texas. The tar contains enough distillates to
penetrate surface/light rust and heating it lets it wick into crevasses. My
two personal test cases: replaced the floor pans in an old Scout I bought
up in Wisc. and coated all the seams with roofing tar. Drove the heap for
10 years and had to re-coat the exposed surfaces every 3-4 years as the tar
sublimed but it stood the salt better than any of the near-by untreated
surfaces.
The acid test was a swamp cooler. The bottom was rusting through so I dried
it out, put a coat of roofing tar on the bottom pan. Sealed the leaks and
salvaged the cooler for another 12 years of service. Yeah, I'm cheap but
that tar does a great job for me. Of course, that doesn't get into the
mess factor of working with it - have lots of mineral spirits on hand!
--
Will Honea
> I used to hear about "hot oil undercoating" when I lived in New England,
> but
> there isn't much call for it here in Colorado. I think they use something
> thicker than gear oil, and heat it up, but the same principle applies.
> Standard undercoating is a sound insulation product, not a rust-proofer.
Earle, if you want to go to that extreme the simplest (and cheapest) way is
to use roofing tar or roofing cement. That was an old-timer's trick in the
the body shop trade in Texas. The tar contains enough distillates to
penetrate surface/light rust and heating it lets it wick into crevasses. My
two personal test cases: replaced the floor pans in an old Scout I bought
up in Wisc. and coated all the seams with roofing tar. Drove the heap for
10 years and had to re-coat the exposed surfaces every 3-4 years as the tar
sublimed but it stood the salt better than any of the near-by untreated
surfaces.
The acid test was a swamp cooler. The bottom was rusting through so I dried
it out, put a coat of roofing tar on the bottom pan. Sealed the leaks and
salvaged the cooler for another 12 years of service. Yeah, I'm cheap but
that tar does a great job for me. Of course, that doesn't get into the
mess factor of working with it - have lots of mineral spirits on hand!
--
Will Honea