And what do you think a Kalifornia Civilian Jeep as Jeff's would
have? I am aware of their tooth count:
http://www.----------.com/tooth_count.txt
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Steve wrote:
>
> Tooth counts for AMC 20 and Dana 30 are identical for all ratios except
> 3.54:
>
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
>
> Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
> 41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
> have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
> differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
> but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
> match'.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org

 

And what do you think a Kalifornia Civilian Jeep as Jeff's would
have? I am aware of their tooth count:
http://www.----------.com/tooth_count.txt
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Steve wrote:
>
> Tooth counts for AMC 20 and Dana 30 are identical for all ratios except
> 3.54:
>
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
>
> Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
> 41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
> have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
> differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
> but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
> match'.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org

 

And what do you think a Kalifornia Civilian Jeep as Jeff's would
have? I am aware of their tooth count:
http://www.----------.com/tooth_count.txt
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Steve wrote:
>
> Tooth counts for AMC 20 and Dana 30 are identical for all ratios except
> 3.54:
>
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
>
> Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
> 41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
> have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
> differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
> but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
> match'.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org

 

Ah yes, of course.

Don't know why, but I've always pushed or pulled the cable while still
in 4x4. Maybe it comes from my first test run with the cable when I
stupidly pulled to engage while driving in 2HI. Grrrrunch.

Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org


Mike Romain wrote:
> Once the shift is made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power.
>
> Steve wrote:
>>
>>I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
>>until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
>>collar.

 

Ah yes, of course.

Don't know why, but I've always pushed or pulled the cable while still
in 4x4. Maybe it comes from my first test run with the cable when I
stupidly pulled to engage while driving in 2HI. Grrrrunch.

Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org


Mike Romain wrote:
> Once the shift is made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power.
>
> Steve wrote:
>>
>>I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
>>until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
>>collar.

 

Ah yes, of course.

Don't know why, but I've always pushed or pulled the cable while still
in 4x4. Maybe it comes from my first test run with the cable when I
stupidly pulled to engage while driving in 2HI. Grrrrunch.

Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org


Mike Romain wrote:
> Once the shift is made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power.
>
> Steve wrote:
>>
>>I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
>>until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
>>collar.

 

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/
http://store.yahoo.com/collinsbros/4x4psilok.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am talking about city and highway driving in my 88 Cherokee to just
> release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
> made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
> thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
> spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
> helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
> recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
> talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
> I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
>
> I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
> loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
>
> Mike

 

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/
http://store.yahoo.com/collinsbros/4x4psilok.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am talking about city and highway driving in my 88 Cherokee to just
> release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
> made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
> thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
> spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
> helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
> recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
> talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
> I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
>
> I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
> loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
>
> Mike

 

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/
http://store.yahoo.com/collinsbros/4x4psilok.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am talking about city and highway driving in my 88 Cherokee to just
> release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
> made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
> thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
> spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
> helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
> recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
> talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
> I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
>
> I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
> loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
>
> Mike

 

I can see that. They are in the opposite order when going to 2 WD from
4x4, stock the t-case shifts first both ways followed by the vacuum
signal to the axle.

Mike

Steve wrote:
>
> Ah yes, of course.
>
> Don't know why, but I've always pushed or pulled the cable while still
> in 4x4. Maybe it comes from my first test run with the cable when I
> stupidly pulled to engage while driving in 2HI. Grrrrunch.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Once the shift is made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power.
> >
> > Steve wrote:
> >>
> >>I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
> >>until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
> >>collar.