Unlock hubs in 94 Cherokee
02-25-2005, 04:33 PM
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Unlock hubs in 94 Cherokee
Yup, that's it and that's enough not to be able to release four
drive in just a couple of feet after getting up on the road.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That still has absolutely 'nothing' to do with unlocking the front
> hubs!!!!
>
> That is the t-case binding up. It happens on my dana set up too because
> of the high traction muds I run.
>
> I thought the real bad set was the 410/411 splits on some of them.
>
> Mike
drive in just a couple of feet after getting up on the road.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That still has absolutely 'nothing' to do with unlocking the front
> hubs!!!!
>
> That is the t-case binding up. It happens on my dana set up too because
> of the high traction muds I run.
>
> I thought the real bad set was the 410/411 splits on some of them.
>
> Mike
02-25-2005, 04:39 PM
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Unlock hubs in 94 Cherokee
Tooth counts for AMC 20 and Dana 30 are identical for all ratios except
3.54:
http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
match'.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Our Transfer cases are likely to bind coming out of four wheel
> drive on good traction, because your AMC 20 and My nine inch do not
> exactly match ratios with our front ends. Something Mike doesn't
> experience having both front and rear Danas.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
>>But Mike, he was told to go in reverse to allow the mechanism to unlock. I
>>was thinking he has the system like that in the YJ. It turns out he has the
>>system that is like the TJ.
>>
>>This is not entirely true. Well, it is true in theory. That is there is no
>>requirement, but we all know that the YJ's front axle can balk at unlocking
>>when the tcase lever is moved back to 2WD, the work-around for this
>>balkiness is to back up a few yards.
3.54:
http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
match'.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Our Transfer cases are likely to bind coming out of four wheel
> drive on good traction, because your AMC 20 and My nine inch do not
> exactly match ratios with our front ends. Something Mike doesn't
> experience having both front and rear Danas.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
>>But Mike, he was told to go in reverse to allow the mechanism to unlock. I
>>was thinking he has the system like that in the YJ. It turns out he has the
>>system that is like the TJ.
>>
>>This is not entirely true. Well, it is true in theory. That is there is no
>>requirement, but we all know that the YJ's front axle can balk at unlocking
>>when the tcase lever is moved back to 2WD, the work-around for this
>>balkiness is to back up a few yards.
02-25-2005, 04:39 PM
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Unlock hubs in 94 Cherokee
Tooth counts for AMC 20 and Dana 30 are identical for all ratios except
3.54:
http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
match'.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Our Transfer cases are likely to bind coming out of four wheel
> drive on good traction, because your AMC 20 and My nine inch do not
> exactly match ratios with our front ends. Something Mike doesn't
> experience having both front and rear Danas.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
>>But Mike, he was told to go in reverse to allow the mechanism to unlock. I
>>was thinking he has the system like that in the YJ. It turns out he has the
>>system that is like the TJ.
>>
>>This is not entirely true. Well, it is true in theory. That is there is no
>>requirement, but we all know that the YJ's front axle can balk at unlocking
>>when the tcase lever is moved back to 2WD, the work-around for this
>>balkiness is to back up a few yards.
3.54:
http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
match'.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Our Transfer cases are likely to bind coming out of four wheel
> drive on good traction, because your AMC 20 and My nine inch do not
> exactly match ratios with our front ends. Something Mike doesn't
> experience having both front and rear Danas.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
>>But Mike, he was told to go in reverse to allow the mechanism to unlock. I
>>was thinking he has the system like that in the YJ. It turns out he has the
>>system that is like the TJ.
>>
>>This is not entirely true. Well, it is true in theory. That is there is no
>>requirement, but we all know that the YJ's front axle can balk at unlocking
>>when the tcase lever is moved back to 2WD, the work-around for this
>>balkiness is to back up a few yards.
02-25-2005, 04:39 PM
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Unlock hubs in 94 Cherokee
Tooth counts for AMC 20 and Dana 30 are identical for all ratios except
3.54:
http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
match'.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Our Transfer cases are likely to bind coming out of four wheel
> drive on good traction, because your AMC 20 and My nine inch do not
> exactly match ratios with our front ends. Something Mike doesn't
> experience having both front and rear Danas.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
>>But Mike, he was told to go in reverse to allow the mechanism to unlock. I
>>was thinking he has the system like that in the YJ. It turns out he has the
>>system that is like the TJ.
>>
>>This is not entirely true. Well, it is true in theory. That is there is no
>>requirement, but we all know that the YJ's front axle can balk at unlocking
>>when the tcase lever is moved back to 2WD, the work-around for this
>>balkiness is to back up a few yards.
3.54:
http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
match'.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Our Transfer cases are likely to bind coming out of four wheel
> drive on good traction, because your AMC 20 and My nine inch do not
> exactly match ratios with our front ends. Something Mike doesn't
> experience having both front and rear Danas.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
>>But Mike, he was told to go in reverse to allow the mechanism to unlock. I
>>was thinking he has the system like that in the YJ. It turns out he has the
>>system that is like the TJ.
>>
>>This is not entirely true. Well, it is true in theory. That is there is no
>>requirement, but we all know that the YJ's front axle can balk at unlocking
>>when the tcase lever is moved back to 2WD, the work-around for this
>>balkiness is to back up a few yards.
02-25-2005, 04:58 PM
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Unlock hubs in 94 Cherokee
I don't have direct experience with the vacuum slider cause mine never
worked since I've owned it, but since I tore it off and and hooked up a
cable, I find that when the engine is either pulling or braking, even
slightly, it's damn near impossible to push the cable to disengage the
axle. I expect the vacuum unit would be similarly ineffective in such
cases. I have to feather the gas so that the inner and outer axles are
freely rotating together in order to slide it off.
I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
collar.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> If the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive via the shifter and the slider
> doesn't want to unlock, you need to floor it up to say 3000 rpm, then
> let off the gas fast.
worked since I've owned it, but since I tore it off and and hooked up a
cable, I find that when the engine is either pulling or braking, even
slightly, it's damn near impossible to push the cable to disengage the
axle. I expect the vacuum unit would be similarly ineffective in such
cases. I have to feather the gas so that the inner and outer axles are
freely rotating together in order to slide it off.
I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
collar.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> If the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive via the shifter and the slider
> doesn't want to unlock, you need to floor it up to say 3000 rpm, then
> let off the gas fast.
02-25-2005, 04:58 PM
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Unlock hubs in 94 Cherokee
I don't have direct experience with the vacuum slider cause mine never
worked since I've owned it, but since I tore it off and and hooked up a
cable, I find that when the engine is either pulling or braking, even
slightly, it's damn near impossible to push the cable to disengage the
axle. I expect the vacuum unit would be similarly ineffective in such
cases. I have to feather the gas so that the inner and outer axles are
freely rotating together in order to slide it off.
I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
collar.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> If the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive via the shifter and the slider
> doesn't want to unlock, you need to floor it up to say 3000 rpm, then
> let off the gas fast.
worked since I've owned it, but since I tore it off and and hooked up a
cable, I find that when the engine is either pulling or braking, even
slightly, it's damn near impossible to push the cable to disengage the
axle. I expect the vacuum unit would be similarly ineffective in such
cases. I have to feather the gas so that the inner and outer axles are
freely rotating together in order to slide it off.
I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
collar.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> If the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive via the shifter and the slider
> doesn't want to unlock, you need to floor it up to say 3000 rpm, then
> let off the gas fast.
02-25-2005, 04:58 PM
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Unlock hubs in 94 Cherokee
I don't have direct experience with the vacuum slider cause mine never
worked since I've owned it, but since I tore it off and and hooked up a
cable, I find that when the engine is either pulling or braking, even
slightly, it's damn near impossible to push the cable to disengage the
axle. I expect the vacuum unit would be similarly ineffective in such
cases. I have to feather the gas so that the inner and outer axles are
freely rotating together in order to slide it off.
I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
collar.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> If the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive via the shifter and the slider
> doesn't want to unlock, you need to floor it up to say 3000 rpm, then
> let off the gas fast.
worked since I've owned it, but since I tore it off and and hooked up a
cable, I find that when the engine is either pulling or braking, even
slightly, it's damn near impossible to push the cable to disengage the
axle. I expect the vacuum unit would be similarly ineffective in such
cases. I have to feather the gas so that the inner and outer axles are
freely rotating together in order to slide it off.
I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
collar.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> If the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive via the shifter and the slider
> doesn't want to unlock, you need to floor it up to say 3000 rpm, then
> let off the gas fast.
02-25-2005, 05:10 PM
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Unlock hubs in 94 Cherokee
I am talking about city and highway driving in my 88 Cherokee to just
release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
Mike
Steve wrote:
>
> I don't have direct experience with the vacuum slider cause mine never
> worked since I've owned it, but since I tore it off and and hooked up a
> cable, I find that when the engine is either pulling or braking, even
> slightly, it's damn near impossible to push the cable to disengage the
> axle. I expect the vacuum unit would be similarly ineffective in such
> cases. I have to feather the gas so that the inner and outer axles are
> freely rotating together in order to slide it off.
>
> I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
> until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
> collar.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > If the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive via the shifter and the slider
> > doesn't want to unlock, you need to floor it up to say 3000 rpm, then
> > let off the gas fast.
release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
Mike
Steve wrote:
>
> I don't have direct experience with the vacuum slider cause mine never
> worked since I've owned it, but since I tore it off and and hooked up a
> cable, I find that when the engine is either pulling or braking, even
> slightly, it's damn near impossible to push the cable to disengage the
> axle. I expect the vacuum unit would be similarly ineffective in such
> cases. I have to feather the gas so that the inner and outer axles are
> freely rotating together in order to slide it off.
>
> I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
> until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
> collar.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > If the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive via the shifter and the slider
> > doesn't want to unlock, you need to floor it up to say 3000 rpm, then
> > let off the gas fast.
02-25-2005, 05:10 PM
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Unlock hubs in 94 Cherokee
I am talking about city and highway driving in my 88 Cherokee to just
release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
Mike
Steve wrote:
>
> I don't have direct experience with the vacuum slider cause mine never
> worked since I've owned it, but since I tore it off and and hooked up a
> cable, I find that when the engine is either pulling or braking, even
> slightly, it's damn near impossible to push the cable to disengage the
> axle. I expect the vacuum unit would be similarly ineffective in such
> cases. I have to feather the gas so that the inner and outer axles are
> freely rotating together in order to slide it off.
>
> I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
> until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
> collar.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > If the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive via the shifter and the slider
> > doesn't want to unlock, you need to floor it up to say 3000 rpm, then
> > let off the gas fast.
release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
Mike
Steve wrote:
>
> I don't have direct experience with the vacuum slider cause mine never
> worked since I've owned it, but since I tore it off and and hooked up a
> cable, I find that when the engine is either pulling or braking, even
> slightly, it's damn near impossible to push the cable to disengage the
> axle. I expect the vacuum unit would be similarly ineffective in such
> cases. I have to feather the gas so that the inner and outer axles are
> freely rotating together in order to slide it off.
>
> I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
> until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
> collar.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > If the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive via the shifter and the slider
> > doesn't want to unlock, you need to floor it up to say 3000 rpm, then
> > let off the gas fast.
02-25-2005, 05:10 PM
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Unlock hubs in 94 Cherokee
I am talking about city and highway driving in my 88 Cherokee to just
release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
Mike
Steve wrote:
>
> I don't have direct experience with the vacuum slider cause mine never
> worked since I've owned it, but since I tore it off and and hooked up a
> cable, I find that when the engine is either pulling or braking, even
> slightly, it's damn near impossible to push the cable to disengage the
> axle. I expect the vacuum unit would be similarly ineffective in such
> cases. I have to feather the gas so that the inner and outer axles are
> freely rotating together in order to slide it off.
>
> I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
> until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
> collar.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > If the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive via the shifter and the slider
> > doesn't want to unlock, you need to floor it up to say 3000 rpm, then
> > let off the gas fast.
release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
Mike
Steve wrote:
>
> I don't have direct experience with the vacuum slider cause mine never
> worked since I've owned it, but since I tore it off and and hooked up a
> cable, I find that when the engine is either pulling or braking, even
> slightly, it's damn near impossible to push the cable to disengage the
> axle. I expect the vacuum unit would be similarly ineffective in such
> cases. I have to feather the gas so that the inner and outer axles are
> freely rotating together in order to slide it off.
>
> I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
> until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
> collar.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > If the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive via the shifter and the slider
> > doesn't want to unlock, you need to floor it up to say 3000 rpm, then
> > let off the gas fast.