Unlock hubs in 94 Cherokee
#71
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
And what do you think a Kalifornia Civilian Jeep as Jeff's would
have? I am aware of their tooth count:
http://www.----------.com/tooth_count.txt
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Steve wrote:
>
> Tooth counts for AMC 20 and Dana 30 are identical for all ratios except
> 3.54:
>
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
>
> Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
> 41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
> have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
> differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
> but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
> match'.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
have? I am aware of their tooth count:
http://www.----------.com/tooth_count.txt
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Steve wrote:
>
> Tooth counts for AMC 20 and Dana 30 are identical for all ratios except
> 3.54:
>
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
>
> Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
> 41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
> have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
> differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
> but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
> match'.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
#72
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
And what do you think a Kalifornia Civilian Jeep as Jeff's would
have? I am aware of their tooth count:
http://www.----------.com/tooth_count.txt
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Steve wrote:
>
> Tooth counts for AMC 20 and Dana 30 are identical for all ratios except
> 3.54:
>
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
>
> Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
> 41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
> have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
> differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
> but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
> match'.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
have? I am aware of their tooth count:
http://www.----------.com/tooth_count.txt
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Steve wrote:
>
> Tooth counts for AMC 20 and Dana 30 are identical for all ratios except
> 3.54:
>
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
>
> Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
> 41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
> have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
> differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
> but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
> match'.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
#73
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
And what do you think a Kalifornia Civilian Jeep as Jeff's would
have? I am aware of their tooth count:
http://www.----------.com/tooth_count.txt
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Steve wrote:
>
> Tooth counts for AMC 20 and Dana 30 are identical for all ratios except
> 3.54:
>
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
>
> Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
> 41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
> have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
> differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
> but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
> match'.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
have? I am aware of their tooth count:
http://www.----------.com/tooth_count.txt
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Steve wrote:
>
> Tooth counts for AMC 20 and Dana 30 are identical for all ratios except
> 3.54:
>
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p67.htm
> http://www.xtremeterrain.com/p56.htm
>
> Also, having two Danas doesn't guarantee identical ratios. My Dana 30 is
> 41x10 (4.10). My Dana 35 had (4.11). My Dana 44 which would normally
> have 45x11 (4.09) has the 41x10 (4.10) TJ Rubicon gears. Granted, these
> differences are probably smaller than that between your Dana and Ford,
> but you can't say that front and rear Danas will necessarily 'exactly
> match'.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
#74
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ah yes, of course.
Don't know why, but I've always pushed or pulled the cable while still
in 4x4. Maybe it comes from my first test run with the cable when I
stupidly pulled to engage while driving in 2HI. Grrrrunch.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
> Once the shift is made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power.
>
> Steve wrote:
>>
>>I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
>>until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
>>collar.
Don't know why, but I've always pushed or pulled the cable while still
in 4x4. Maybe it comes from my first test run with the cable when I
stupidly pulled to engage while driving in 2HI. Grrrrunch.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
> Once the shift is made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power.
>
> Steve wrote:
>>
>>I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
>>until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
>>collar.
#75
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ah yes, of course.
Don't know why, but I've always pushed or pulled the cable while still
in 4x4. Maybe it comes from my first test run with the cable when I
stupidly pulled to engage while driving in 2HI. Grrrrunch.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
> Once the shift is made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power.
>
> Steve wrote:
>>
>>I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
>>until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
>>collar.
Don't know why, but I've always pushed or pulled the cable while still
in 4x4. Maybe it comes from my first test run with the cable when I
stupidly pulled to engage while driving in 2HI. Grrrrunch.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
> Once the shift is made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power.
>
> Steve wrote:
>>
>>I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
>>until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
>>collar.
#76
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ah yes, of course.
Don't know why, but I've always pushed or pulled the cable while still
in 4x4. Maybe it comes from my first test run with the cable when I
stupidly pulled to engage while driving in 2HI. Grrrrunch.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
> Once the shift is made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power.
>
> Steve wrote:
>>
>>I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
>>until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
>>collar.
Don't know why, but I've always pushed or pulled the cable while still
in 4x4. Maybe it comes from my first test run with the cable when I
stupidly pulled to engage while driving in 2HI. Grrrrunch.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
> Once the shift is made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power.
>
> Steve wrote:
>>
>>I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
>>until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
>>collar.
#77
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/
http://store.yahoo.com/collinsbros/4x4psilok.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am talking about city and highway driving in my 88 Cherokee to just
> release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
> made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
> thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
> spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
> helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
> recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
> talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
> I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
>
> I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
> loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
>
> Mike
http://store.yahoo.com/collinsbros/4x4psilok.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am talking about city and highway driving in my 88 Cherokee to just
> release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
> made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
> thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
> spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
> helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
> recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
> talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
> I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
>
> I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
> loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
>
> Mike
#78
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/
http://store.yahoo.com/collinsbros/4x4psilok.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am talking about city and highway driving in my 88 Cherokee to just
> release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
> made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
> thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
> spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
> helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
> recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
> talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
> I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
>
> I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
> loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
>
> Mike
http://store.yahoo.com/collinsbros/4x4psilok.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am talking about city and highway driving in my 88 Cherokee to just
> release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
> made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
> thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
> spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
> helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
> recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
> talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
> I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
>
> I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
> loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
>
> Mike
#79
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/
http://store.yahoo.com/collinsbros/4x4psilok.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am talking about city and highway driving in my 88 Cherokee to just
> release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
> made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
> thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
> spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
> helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
> recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
> talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
> I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
>
> I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
> loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
>
> Mike
http://store.yahoo.com/collinsbros/4x4psilok.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I am talking about city and highway driving in my 88 Cherokee to just
> release the axle after the shifter has gone to 2 WD. Once the shift is
> made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power. Then the only
> thing stopping the axle shift is low vacuum and maybe a bit of torque to
> spin the carrier and driveshaft so I think the neutral on thrust likely
> helps still. A quick goose and let off the gas always worked until
> recently for us which also has the not under thrust point you are
> talking about. I now think I have a hose loose or cracked under there.
> I will check closer come spring, don't mind it on right now.
>
> I am seriously thinking about a cable switch too but if mine is just a
> loose hose, well it has worked well for 305K km....
>
> Mike
#80
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I can see that. They are in the opposite order when going to 2 WD from
4x4, stock the t-case shifts first both ways followed by the vacuum
signal to the axle.
Mike
Steve wrote:
>
> Ah yes, of course.
>
> Don't know why, but I've always pushed or pulled the cable while still
> in 4x4. Maybe it comes from my first test run with the cable when I
> stupidly pulled to engage while driving in 2HI. Grrrrunch.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Once the shift is made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power.
> >
> > Steve wrote:
> >>
> >>I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
> >>until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
> >>collar.
4x4, stock the t-case shifts first both ways followed by the vacuum
signal to the axle.
Mike
Steve wrote:
>
> Ah yes, of course.
>
> Don't know why, but I've always pushed or pulled the cable while still
> in 4x4. Maybe it comes from my first test run with the cable when I
> stupidly pulled to engage while driving in 2HI. Grrrrunch.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Once the shift is made the driveshaft is no longer under engine power.
> >
> > Steve wrote:
> >>
> >>I presume you don't resort to the brute force 3000 rpm vacuum method
> >>until after trying to feather the gas to release pressure on the splined
> >>collar.