Re: stripped lugnuts
Thanks Mike and Jon,
so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll grab one tomorrow. Jon wrote: > Greg, > > I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has > become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them > balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's > supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that > job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores > have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of > the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless > cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket); > and go to town -- hit it like you mean it. > > Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the > chrome, you're in for 20. > > Looks like this one, makes life easy: > > http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html > > If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or > something similar. > > Jon > |
Re: stripped lugnuts
Thanks Mike and Jon,
so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll grab one tomorrow. Jon wrote: > Greg, > > I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has > become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them > balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's > supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that > job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores > have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of > the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless > cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket); > and go to town -- hit it like you mean it. > > Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the > chrome, you're in for 20. > > Looks like this one, makes life easy: > > http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html > > If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or > something similar. > > Jon > |
Re: stripped lugnuts
Thanks Mike and Jon,
so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll grab one tomorrow. Jon wrote: > Greg, > > I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has > become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them > balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's > supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that > job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores > have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of > the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless > cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket); > and go to town -- hit it like you mean it. > > Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the > chrome, you're in for 20. > > Looks like this one, makes life easy: > > http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html > > If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or > something similar. > > Jon > |
Re: stripped lugnuts
I had the same on my dakota, those cap on cover lugs are pieces sh*t. I
stripped 2 on one side and another on the other front tire. What I used worked like a charm. Ol sears pulled thru. They have bolt remover set for 20 bucks. Fit one on by tapping onto place and use a impact driver on them in rev. Them more they turn the more they chew on them to lock in place. Sears item #00952060000 Mfr. model #52060 http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...60000&vertical "The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message news:es5dcc$qkp$2@aioe.org... > Thanks Mike and Jon, > so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll > grab one tomorrow. > > Jon wrote: >> Greg, >> >> I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has >> become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them >> balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's >> supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that >> job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores >> have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of >> the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless >> cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket); >> and go to town -- hit it like you mean it. >> >> Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the >> chrome, you're in for 20. >> >> Looks like this one, makes life easy: >> >> http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html >> >> If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or >> something similar. >> >> Jon >> |
Re: stripped lugnuts
I had the same on my dakota, those cap on cover lugs are pieces sh*t. I
stripped 2 on one side and another on the other front tire. What I used worked like a charm. Ol sears pulled thru. They have bolt remover set for 20 bucks. Fit one on by tapping onto place and use a impact driver on them in rev. Them more they turn the more they chew on them to lock in place. Sears item #00952060000 Mfr. model #52060 http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...60000&vertical "The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message news:es5dcc$qkp$2@aioe.org... > Thanks Mike and Jon, > so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll > grab one tomorrow. > > Jon wrote: >> Greg, >> >> I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has >> become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them >> balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's >> supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that >> job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores >> have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of >> the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless >> cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket); >> and go to town -- hit it like you mean it. >> >> Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the >> chrome, you're in for 20. >> >> Looks like this one, makes life easy: >> >> http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html >> >> If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or >> something similar. >> >> Jon >> |
Re: stripped lugnuts
I had the same on my dakota, those cap on cover lugs are pieces sh*t. I
stripped 2 on one side and another on the other front tire. What I used worked like a charm. Ol sears pulled thru. They have bolt remover set for 20 bucks. Fit one on by tapping onto place and use a impact driver on them in rev. Them more they turn the more they chew on them to lock in place. Sears item #00952060000 Mfr. model #52060 http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...60000&vertical "The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message news:es5dcc$qkp$2@aioe.org... > Thanks Mike and Jon, > so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll > grab one tomorrow. > > Jon wrote: >> Greg, >> >> I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has >> become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them >> balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's >> supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that >> job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores >> have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of >> the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless >> cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket); >> and go to town -- hit it like you mean it. >> >> Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the >> chrome, you're in for 20. >> >> Looks like this one, makes life easy: >> >> http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html >> >> If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or >> something similar. >> >> Jon >> |
Re: stripped lugnuts
My wife's first XJ had the same friggin' thing happen - I feel your pain.
I used a torch to heat the lug nut and managed to get a good enough grip with some vise grips to break it free - good luck paul "The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message news:es4n33$db9$1@aioe.org... > OK, yeah they're stuck. The flats, not the threads, are the problem and > have indeed rounded off. Although I guess the threads are the problem > too, as they are stuck (not stripped :p ) > Thanks, Jeff - any suggestions? > > Jeff Strickland wrote: >> Are they stripped or stuck? >> >> Stripped means they simply spin, without getting (typically) tighter, but >> I suppose they could spin without getting looser. In my experience, I'd >> say the two are completely different problems. >> >> Your description looks to me as though the flats are rounding off. This >> implies the nuts are frozen in place (stuck). >> >> >> >> >> "The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message >> news:es4hvm$1u7$1@aioe.org... >>> I know there have been plenty of bolt removal questions on here, but >>> here goes. >>> The lugnuts on the front of my XJ are @#$#ed. I was able to get 4 or 5 >>> of 10 off no problem, but the others wouldn't budge. These seem like >>> really crappy lugs, not one piece but two pieces with the nut and a cap. >>> I've sprayed PB and tapped on the nuts every night for about a week and >>> a half. >>> I've been alternating between a breaker bar and impact wrench, and >>> basically I've succeeded in breaking off most of the caps and stripping >>> the nuts. The nuts don't seem to be stripping like I'm used to, it's >>> more like they deform, like they're made of lead. >>> >>> some crappy pictures here: >>> http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ripped%20lugs/ >>> >>> I don't have a welder, but I could probably take it somewhere if welding >>> nuts on top is my best option. >>> I'm afraid to drill because of the studs. >>> How should I do this without damaging the studs? >> |
Re: stripped lugnuts
My wife's first XJ had the same friggin' thing happen - I feel your pain.
I used a torch to heat the lug nut and managed to get a good enough grip with some vise grips to break it free - good luck paul "The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message news:es4n33$db9$1@aioe.org... > OK, yeah they're stuck. The flats, not the threads, are the problem and > have indeed rounded off. Although I guess the threads are the problem > too, as they are stuck (not stripped :p ) > Thanks, Jeff - any suggestions? > > Jeff Strickland wrote: >> Are they stripped or stuck? >> >> Stripped means they simply spin, without getting (typically) tighter, but >> I suppose they could spin without getting looser. In my experience, I'd >> say the two are completely different problems. >> >> Your description looks to me as though the flats are rounding off. This >> implies the nuts are frozen in place (stuck). >> >> >> >> >> "The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message >> news:es4hvm$1u7$1@aioe.org... >>> I know there have been plenty of bolt removal questions on here, but >>> here goes. >>> The lugnuts on the front of my XJ are @#$#ed. I was able to get 4 or 5 >>> of 10 off no problem, but the others wouldn't budge. These seem like >>> really crappy lugs, not one piece but two pieces with the nut and a cap. >>> I've sprayed PB and tapped on the nuts every night for about a week and >>> a half. >>> I've been alternating between a breaker bar and impact wrench, and >>> basically I've succeeded in breaking off most of the caps and stripping >>> the nuts. The nuts don't seem to be stripping like I'm used to, it's >>> more like they deform, like they're made of lead. >>> >>> some crappy pictures here: >>> http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ripped%20lugs/ >>> >>> I don't have a welder, but I could probably take it somewhere if welding >>> nuts on top is my best option. >>> I'm afraid to drill because of the studs. >>> How should I do this without damaging the studs? >> |
Re: stripped lugnuts
My wife's first XJ had the same friggin' thing happen - I feel your pain.
I used a torch to heat the lug nut and managed to get a good enough grip with some vise grips to break it free - good luck paul "The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message news:es4n33$db9$1@aioe.org... > OK, yeah they're stuck. The flats, not the threads, are the problem and > have indeed rounded off. Although I guess the threads are the problem > too, as they are stuck (not stripped :p ) > Thanks, Jeff - any suggestions? > > Jeff Strickland wrote: >> Are they stripped or stuck? >> >> Stripped means they simply spin, without getting (typically) tighter, but >> I suppose they could spin without getting looser. In my experience, I'd >> say the two are completely different problems. >> >> Your description looks to me as though the flats are rounding off. This >> implies the nuts are frozen in place (stuck). >> >> >> >> >> "The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message >> news:es4hvm$1u7$1@aioe.org... >>> I know there have been plenty of bolt removal questions on here, but >>> here goes. >>> The lugnuts on the front of my XJ are @#$#ed. I was able to get 4 or 5 >>> of 10 off no problem, but the others wouldn't budge. These seem like >>> really crappy lugs, not one piece but two pieces with the nut and a cap. >>> I've sprayed PB and tapped on the nuts every night for about a week and >>> a half. >>> I've been alternating between a breaker bar and impact wrench, and >>> basically I've succeeded in breaking off most of the caps and stripping >>> the nuts. The nuts don't seem to be stripping like I'm used to, it's >>> more like they deform, like they're made of lead. >>> >>> some crappy pictures here: >>> http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ripped%20lugs/ >>> >>> I don't have a welder, but I could probably take it somewhere if welding >>> nuts on top is my best option. >>> I'm afraid to drill because of the studs. >>> How should I do this without damaging the studs? >> |
Re: stripped lugnuts
On Feb 28, 7:24 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Curious, where did you find the 'wet' torque values for your lug nuts? > > If you are promoting a fluid on the threads, you should post the torque > settings too or it is bad information. > > There is a 'radical' difference in the torque values on a dry nut and > stud vs a wet one and the books give dry.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > merrill wrote: > > I replaced mine with the 1 piece solid long chrome lugnuts. If you > > want my old 2 piece lugnuts you can have them (2 sets). > > > Now that you have the cheap caps ripped off and you are left with > > regular lugnuts, use the proper size wrench to remove them. you will > > need to soak them for a day or 2 with good petetrating oil (not WD40). > > Use a good cross or breaker bar with a long pipe on it. Put some > > pressure on it and have a buddy hold a flat piece of metal over the > > exposed end of the cross and whack it with a 3 pound mallet. If that > > doesen't work, repeat with a little more pressure and a heaver mallet. > > > When I put the lugnuts on, I put a little "fluid film"TM on the > > threads and torque them properly. Don't use a gun, always use a torque > > wrench. Retorque after 1 week. > > > Merrill > > > On Feb 28, 1:34 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote: > >> I know there have been plenty of bolt removal questions on here, but > >> here goes. > >> The lugnuts on the front of my XJ are @#$#ed. I was able to get 4 or 5 > >> of 10 off no problem, but the others wouldn't budge. These seem like > >> really crappy lugs, not one piece but two pieces with the nut and a cap. > >> I've sprayed PB and tapped on the nuts every night for about a week and > >> a half. > >> I've been alternating between a breaker bar and impact wrench, and > >> basically I've succeeded in breaking off most of the caps and stripping You are right Mike, I don't have wet torque specs. I have always put a drop on the threads and tightened to 75 ft/lb as per the Haynes manual. I didn't specify this number because it could be wrong. But wet or dry I have always retourqued after a few days of driving and haven't had a problem yet. Merrill > >> the nuts. The nuts don't seem to be stripping like I'm used to, it's > >> more like they deform, like they're made of lead. > > >> some crappy pictures here:http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ripped%20lugs/ > > >> I don't have a welder, but I could probably take it somewhere if welding > >> nuts on top is my best option. > >> I'm afraid to drill because of the studs. > >> How should I do this without damaging the studs?- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - |
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