JimG

You need to remove the pitman arm at the gear box, and need a puller to get
it off. Watch for seized bolts at the frame, the weld nuts broke off on a
couple of mine. Then there is the hoses... they can be seized also. Take
the steering shaft loose at the firewall first. You may need to collapse
the shaft... if so it has to be heated in the middle to melt the glue.
There is a snap ring inside the gearbox collar that holds the steering shaft
boot.

I considered rebuilding mine until saw the number of parts in the rebuild
kit ($40)... dozens of o-rings, seals and washers. I went with a re-man box
from Advance Auto... ~$170 with core exchange Worth the $130 difference,
IMHO.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R


<ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:4Cfub.10050$uw5.4064@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> How difficult is it to get this thing out of a CJ7? I think I have to
remove
> the pitman arm....but at what point..where it connects the the tie rod or
> the box? And what is there to removing it from the steering shaft?
> Gotta rebuild this thing...leaking like crazy!!!!
> Thanks!
> Allen
> 83 CJ7 (Power steering)
>
>

JimG

You need to remove the pitman arm at the gear box, and need a puller to get
it off. Watch for seized bolts at the frame, the weld nuts broke off on a
couple of mine. Then there is the hoses... they can be seized also. Take
the steering shaft loose at the firewall first. You may need to collapse
the shaft... if so it has to be heated in the middle to melt the glue.
There is a snap ring inside the gearbox collar that holds the steering shaft
boot.

I considered rebuilding mine until saw the number of parts in the rebuild
kit ($40)... dozens of o-rings, seals and washers. I went with a re-man box
from Advance Auto... ~$170 with core exchange Worth the $130 difference,
IMHO.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R


<ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:4Cfub.10050$uw5.4064@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> How difficult is it to get this thing out of a CJ7? I think I have to
remove
> the pitman arm....but at what point..where it connects the the tie rod or
> the box? And what is there to removing it from the steering shaft?
> Gotta rebuild this thing...leaking like crazy!!!!
> Thanks!
> Allen
> 83 CJ7 (Power steering)
>
>

Will Honea

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 12:21:45 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:

> ABanks5 did pass the time by typing:
> > I did just get 33s and then it started leaking! What do you mean about the
> > surface being bad?? With that napa price,...is there a core charge??
> > Allen
>
> Sometimes when seals go bad the metal around the shaft can get scraped up.
> It's not common and depends a lot on how bad the seal/bushing is.
>
> With Napa there is almost always a core charge. You get that back when they
> get your old part. Core charges depend on how much demand there is for the
> reman parts. For example, the core charge on my distributor (80$) was about
> 75$. Guess they wanted the core back badly.
>
> with 33s you probably should consider a stronger box. I'm not sure about your
> application but on some jeeps it was a good idea to put additional bracing on
> the steering box because it put too much stress on that part of the frame.

LOL. When I replace the brake master cylinder on my 88, the part was
$19.95, the core charge was $25.00!

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Will Honea

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 12:21:45 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:

> ABanks5 did pass the time by typing:
> > I did just get 33s and then it started leaking! What do you mean about the
> > surface being bad?? With that napa price,...is there a core charge??
> > Allen
>
> Sometimes when seals go bad the metal around the shaft can get scraped up.
> It's not common and depends a lot on how bad the seal/bushing is.
>
> With Napa there is almost always a core charge. You get that back when they
> get your old part. Core charges depend on how much demand there is for the
> reman parts. For example, the core charge on my distributor (80$) was about
> 75$. Guess they wanted the core back badly.
>
> with 33s you probably should consider a stronger box. I'm not sure about your
> application but on some jeeps it was a good idea to put additional bracing on
> the steering box because it put too much stress on that part of the frame.

LOL. When I replace the brake master cylinder on my 88, the part was
$19.95, the core charge was $25.00!

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Will Honea

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 12:21:45 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:

> ABanks5 did pass the time by typing:
> > I did just get 33s and then it started leaking! What do you mean about the
> > surface being bad?? With that napa price,...is there a core charge??
> > Allen
>
> Sometimes when seals go bad the metal around the shaft can get scraped up.
> It's not common and depends a lot on how bad the seal/bushing is.
>
> With Napa there is almost always a core charge. You get that back when they
> get your old part. Core charges depend on how much demand there is for the
> reman parts. For example, the core charge on my distributor (80$) was about
> 75$. Guess they wanted the core back badly.
>
> with 33s you probably should consider a stronger box. I'm not sure about your
> application but on some jeeps it was a good idea to put additional bracing on
> the steering box because it put too much stress on that part of the frame.

LOL. When I replace the brake master cylinder on my 88, the part was
$19.95, the core charge was $25.00!

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Mike Romain

I helped Steve Seppala from this group do his box on his YJ, looked the
same as my CJ7's.

The pitman arm is bad news to try and take apart!!!

If you use a pickle fork on the drag link rod, there is a very good
chance you will take out the tie rod end on it, the grease boot for
sure.

You will need a puller and a Big hammer to get the arm off the box. I
mean 2+lb sledge.... You need to do this 'before' you unbolt the box,
or it won't likely come off. Then because you beat the crap out of the
pitman to get it off, it's connection too will need seals and maybe a
bearing. (the kit has both)

Steve posted the same as you and I went 'woah now, why are you taking
those off?' He only needed the seal for the steering rod done like you.

Turns out he didn't live far from me and I went over and we just dropped
the box down and put a new bearing and seal in from the front with the
box tipped and hanging on the pitman arm.

It worked great.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> How difficult is it to get this thing out of a CJ7? I think I have to remove
> the pitman arm....but at what point..where it connects the the tie rod or
> the box? And what is there to removing it from the steering shaft?
> Gotta rebuild this thing...leaking like crazy!!!!
> Thanks!
> Allen
> 83 CJ7 (Power steering)

Mike Romain

I helped Steve Seppala from this group do his box on his YJ, looked the
same as my CJ7's.

The pitman arm is bad news to try and take apart!!!

If you use a pickle fork on the drag link rod, there is a very good
chance you will take out the tie rod end on it, the grease boot for
sure.

You will need a puller and a Big hammer to get the arm off the box. I
mean 2+lb sledge.... You need to do this 'before' you unbolt the box,
or it won't likely come off. Then because you beat the crap out of the
pitman to get it off, it's connection too will need seals and maybe a
bearing. (the kit has both)

Steve posted the same as you and I went 'woah now, why are you taking
those off?' He only needed the seal for the steering rod done like you.

Turns out he didn't live far from me and I went over and we just dropped
the box down and put a new bearing and seal in from the front with the
box tipped and hanging on the pitman arm.

It worked great.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> How difficult is it to get this thing out of a CJ7? I think I have to remove
> the pitman arm....but at what point..where it connects the the tie rod or
> the box? And what is there to removing it from the steering shaft?
> Gotta rebuild this thing...leaking like crazy!!!!
> Thanks!
> Allen
> 83 CJ7 (Power steering)

Mike Romain

I helped Steve Seppala from this group do his box on his YJ, looked the
same as my CJ7's.

The pitman arm is bad news to try and take apart!!!

If you use a pickle fork on the drag link rod, there is a very good
chance you will take out the tie rod end on it, the grease boot for
sure.

You will need a puller and a Big hammer to get the arm off the box. I
mean 2+lb sledge.... You need to do this 'before' you unbolt the box,
or it won't likely come off. Then because you beat the crap out of the
pitman to get it off, it's connection too will need seals and maybe a
bearing. (the kit has both)

Steve posted the same as you and I went 'woah now, why are you taking
those off?' He only needed the seal for the steering rod done like you.

Turns out he didn't live far from me and I went over and we just dropped
the box down and put a new bearing and seal in from the front with the
box tipped and hanging on the pitman arm.

It worked great.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> How difficult is it to get this thing out of a CJ7? I think I have to remove
> the pitman arm....but at what point..where it connects the the tie rod or
> the box? And what is there to removing it from the steering shaft?
> Gotta rebuild this thing...leaking like crazy!!!!
> Thanks!
> Allen
> 83 CJ7 (Power steering)